I've never taken apart a engine... :cry:

So, I'm doing it right now. Briggs 2HP 60102.

CONDITION - Fair

Good - I got the points + condensers sparking, I got the flywheel and starter clutch out, I also got the cam out...

BAD - Flywheel key is... sheared... somehow it was still in place though... think the starter clutch was holding it in place :freak:

Sooo, I got the cam out... and those things out (lifters? They look like valves cept their metal...)...

I'm thinking of boring/honing this one... it came dead, the gaskets were crap... gas tank fullo rust gunk... carb... horrible... Overall, this one has potential :hat:

Back on topic, what do I do now? This thing... needs a full cleaning. There was rust goop inside the block... or whatever orange colored oil means...

How do I get the crank/rod/piston out? Valves?

You would be money ahead going with something like this; http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=92232-1247&desc=Briggs+Stratton+Engine+3+5+HP+Horizontal+3+4+ x2+5+16+Keyed+Shaft+Industrial+Commercial+Ball+Bea ring+Side+Cover


Or At-least this; http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=SB295345&desc=Briggs+Engine+3hp+Shortblock+H+9+for+60000+80 000+Series+with+Horizontal+3+4+Shaft

I don't think you can buy rebuild parts (piston/rings/rod etc.) for this shortblock price. But I would call with model and spec numbers off yours to verify crankshaft out-put size.

Everything works fine... Sparks now, ect...it can probably run...

PROBLEM again... - I found out the valve springs are very rusty... VERY... But they work...

What's a oil slinger look like? Either this one's gone or something...

I don't think you can buy rebuild parts (piston/rings/rod etc.) for this shortblock price. But I would call with model and spec numbers off yours to verify crankshaft out-put size.

Might not, maybe Ebay, but I have a 3HP that I can also part out. Magenetron and everything. I already took the flywheel key... (ordered 2).

What's a oil slinger look like? Either this one's gone or something...


It's #30 in the below pic;

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/Restrorob/Briggs/Briggs60102Rod.jpg

Yeah I noticed... Right now I can't remove it cause the slinger is at a degree.. facing the screws (toward the cam)... thus I need to bend it to get the bolts out...

Anyways, I got some flywheel keys... got spark... just no carburetor...

thus I need to bend it to get the bolts out


NO....NO....NO, NEVER bend a oil slinger....They are made of spring steel, Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder (rod all the way down) then use a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket to remove the slinger/rod cap bolts.

Yeah I noticed... Right now I can't remove it cause the slinger is at a degree.. facing the screws (toward the cam)... thus I need to bend it to get the bolts out...

Anyways, I got some flywheel keys... got spark... just no carburetor...


GlenJudy, offer some help here? must restrain.. must restrain... :woohoo:

I can't. You don't get it. It's so bent in my direction, it just won't get full contact. Only 1/2 contact. And then the wrench gets pushed back by the slinger...

You don't get it.


Hmmm, I get it and get it well.....Here is my signature line from another forum;

16yr. Briggs & Stratton Master Service Technician
Kohler Factory Trained
Generac
Honda
Kawasaki
Tecumseh
Onan
Robin
Dixie Chopper

It's Always Better To Ask Dumb Questions Than To Make Stupid Mistakes...

I couldn't grasp a number for the amount of engines I've been inside, Run the piston back up a little and use a short extension to get the ratchet below the dipper.

In the rod pic I posted there is #31, This is a rod bolt lock. If your engine has one of these make sure you bent the ears down away from the bolt heads so a socket will go on. You can put a SLIGHT downward pressure on the dipper but ONLY slight so not to permanitly bend it.

Oh, If you haven't already taken the cam out get it out of the way for more room but mark which hole the tappets come out of so they can be put back in the same hole.

Oscary1,
Do you intend to reuse the connecting rod?
If not then go ahead and bend the oil dipper to gain access to the rod cap bolts.
Just be sure to install a new one when you reassemble the engine.
If it's bent so far that you cannot gain access to the rod cap bolts, then you should replace it anyways.

If not then go ahead and bend the oil dipper to gain access to the rod cap bolts.

I doubt seriously this dipper is bent more than factory, Bending this one to get it out will not help in finding the proper tools/crank orientation to install a new one without bending.


GlenJudy, offer some help here? must restrain.. must restrain... :woohoo:

Think I'm done with this thread as well Greg..... :rolleyes:

I doubt seriously this dipper is bent more than factory, Bending this one to get it out will not help in finding the proper tools/crank orientation to install a new one without bending.

Well first off you DON"T know if it's the factory bend, or if something else has been done, we don't really know the history behind this engine. We all know that oscary1 has little to no experience working on the internals of these engines. So his best bet to remove it, IF it's BENT as he has described it to be, is to bend it out of the way, and then replace it with a new one!

You can only give advice based on the information presented by the poster. If you have been in as many engines as you claim, then you should have seen a lot of unusual things, I know I have.

No one disagreed with your advice, if you want to give up on this thread thats your choice.

Well first off you DON"T know if it's the factory bend, or if something else has been done, we don't really know the history behind this engine.
You can only give advice based on the information presented by the poster.

You're right. Maybe oscar can take some digital photos and post them in this thread so everyone can SEE what he is dealing with.

You're right. Maybe oscar can take some digital photos and post them in this thread so everyone can SEE what he is dealing with.


I think thats an excellent suggestion!!

Your right 30yT, We haven't seen this engine, That's one of the down falls of on-line diagnosing.

I have seen some strange things as you mentioned but I don't recall (used loosely) seeing a dipper bent so bad the screws couldn't be removed without taking a hit from something after blowing. But anything is possible I suppose, You know even new some can be a little hard to get a socket on properly to torque.

That was the reason for the proper tool/orientation comment, So oscar could get a feel for what had to be done IF possibly it isn't bent so not to bend a new one to install.

Along with you I also agree newz has a great idea with the photos....

Your right 30yT, We haven't seen this engine, That's one of the down falls of on-line diagnosing.

I have seen some strange things as you mentioned but I don't recall (used loosely) seeing a dipper bent so bad the screws couldn't be removed without taking a hit from something after blowing. But anything is possible I suppose, You know even new some can be a little hard to get a socket on properly to torque.

That was the reason for the proper tool/orientation comment, So oscar could get a feel for what had to be done IF possibly it isn't bent so not to bend a new one to install.

Along with you I also agree newz has a great idea with the photos....

I took one down once that the dipper was bent so far over it was rubbing on the oil pan. I don't know who had been in the engine or if it was a disgruntled line worker or what..

I fully agree on the proper tool for the job, as I am not even sure you could get an open or closed end wrench on the cap bolts even if the dipper was not installed on the rod.

Now lets all see if Oscaryu1 can post some pictures for us all to analyze.

:thumbsup:

I just noticed that I didn't put the engine at it's TDC before removing the cam and lifters -.-...

Well... I got to get to work...

And I am currently uploading the photos to Photobucket, ALONG with other photos to prove to yall that I wasn't just playing around with my other engine problems and "high noise" 3HP's...

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0503.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0504.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0507.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0508.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0509.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0510.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x191/oscaryu1/100_0511.jpg

Well in the first picture the dipper looks bent, but in the 2nd picture it looks alright. You should be able to use the procedure Restrorob described in his previous post to remove the rod cap. you will need to use a socket and not an end wrench to accomplish this the easiest way!

OK Thank you, that's all I need. And on the 6th picture you notice that a pulley is stuck to the crankshaft, and I was wondering what is the best way to remove it? I have gotten the screw out. Motor oil and Penetrating Oil (Marvel Mystery Oil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster) hasn't gotten it anywhere.

Well if it's stcuk that good, then you will probably have to use a puller which may destroy the pulley. You might want to try a little heat from a propane torch and see if it will come loose that way.

Well if it's stcuk that good, then you will probably have to use a puller which may destroy the pulley. You might want to try a little heat from a propane torch and see if it will come loose that way.

I don't really like burning oil.

I don't really like burning oil.

Well then I would suggest using the torch on the pulley and not the oil ! :freak:

There's lots of oil and penetrating oil on there. I've tried everything a DIYer would do.

Did you try a puller??

Not yet, but I'll try to get my hands on one. Take in mind that I don't have all the tools a mechanic like you has. And remember, a kid can't get his hands on parts too fast. And a purty young one at that ;)

Not yet, but I'll try to get my hands on one. Take in mind that I don't have all the tools a mechanic like you has. And remember, a kid can't get his hands on parts too fast. And a purty young one at that ;)

Oh, I didn't know that. Your profile has you listed as a 32 year old.

Oh, I didn't know that. Your profile has you listed as a 32 year old.

Aha... :P

I didn't notice that :freak:

Well, when you register, you don't give alotta thought into yuor age :o

I'd rather not reveal it now. Probably 1/2 of the people on here would tell me I'm too young and immature. The other half... well you get my point :rolleyes: