I'm going to be running some MT/XT cars at 20V. Club track, so I can't adjust the supply voltage. What would be the best controller resistance for these cars? I don't want to spend a bunch of money on this, so I was considering a 60 or 90 ohm Parma econo. The track is a large one with a long straight, but has some technical sections as well. I currently use a 45 ohm Econo with my BSRT G3 cars.

I can't point you to the precise resistance you need but a 45 isn't enough. We ordered some from an online store to put on a 22 volts power pack (standard tomy stuff) and the resistance isn't high enough, we have to "feather" the cars on and off thru the corners because the slowest speed achievable by constant controller input crashes the cars

35 or 45 is good with the G3's, a 90 to 120 for the T-Jets, so a 60 to a 75 you should be pretty good to go for the MT/XT's.

I have controlleritis so my sickness goes a little further and I own *cough* a couple of variable resistance controllers so I can use one controller for any car type, I would say a 60 would do you pretty well though.

You should try a 60 or 90 ohm controller before you buy one, you might not like it.

If you're using a power supply that's 20 volts at 10 amps a 45 ohm might be what you want.
But I do know some guys that use a 60 and 90 ohm for their T-Jets only.

I use a 45 ohm econo controller on Scorpion Buck tracks for my Super G+, G3, Aurora T-Jet, MT, Turbo, Tyco 440X2,
and a 15 ohm for my G+, LifeLike T, M, Wizzard P3E, P2, P2E, Storm.

X-Tractions that aren't tuned just right can be jumpy with 45 ohms, especially at 20 volts. Guests on my road course track seem to prefer my 90 ohm controllers when racing most of my X-Tractions. I prefer 60 ohms but 90 feels good too. But I'm not using dynamic braking, so that could make a difference.

Is there one controller that will work with any car and any voltage and not put me in the poor house or have to deal wtih the wife to have one?

It depends on what you consider the poor house.... :)

I have a controller made by Steve Medanic that cost me $250 and it runs everything from my t-jets up to my super stocks.

I also had a Difalco 10 band controller at one point that was pretty decent as well, you will see them every now and then on ebay in the $150 to $175 range, but I haven't seen one for awhile.

I look at it as I have already put money and time into my track, and lots of money into a bunch of cars, why not invest in something that will run them well also? It's interesting that people will spend a ton on cars and their track, but then drive with a stock Tomy or a $20 parma. Sometimes the $20 parma works great for a particular car, but it's weird that you'll then grab another identical chassi out of the same box and it will drive completely different. It's nice to have that extra ability to dial a car in a little bit more.

I would say a 60 would be decent. I assuming you want pretty simple stuff here.
A Professor motor is a the best for these. But you may want to try running a coast box if what you have is too jumpy.
When you get up into 80-100 range you're very deep into the trigger to get any activity. This requires a certain type of driving style that not everyone likes.
I like to "drive on the tip" of the controller, others like to "drive deep" on the trigger. It all depends on what you want.
I think a 60 ohm would get you close to the middle. Also you can adjust the car to the cotroller with brush springs and pickup shoe tension.

Tim

Is there one controller that will work with any car and any voltage and not put me in the poor house or have to deal wtih the wife to have one?



C heck out Professor Motor adj controller. Not a bad controller for the money T-jets to storm type cars :thumbsup:

I checked into the Professor motor controllers on their web site. They had alot of differant ones but don't know enough about slots to know which one to use.

Hi Guys,
The general rule, as I understand it, is that you use a high ohm controller (90-120) for T-Jets and Tuff-Ones (including JLs), and lower ohm controllers as the armature in the car is hotter and demands more current to operate (magnet cars).

However, isn't there another variable - the amount of voltage being used?

For example, let's say you use a 120 ohm controller for your JL T-Jets at 20-22 volts. If you then decided to run them at 18, 15 or 12 volts, wouldn't you want a lower ohm controller?

Thanks...Joe

I our club we run a IROC class and when we run X-tractions we use 60ohm econo's and they seem to work well with these cars. 60 ohm is a little punchy with the JL/ t-jets and kinda mushy with 440x2 and super G+.

afxgns is right you might buy one 45 ohm controller and run it threw something like a powerhouse box which will give you a variable resistance up and down and let you have adjustable brake and coast. The box can be found on Ebay from time to time and runs around 100.00 and can be used with any resistor controller.

While I'm not willing to shell out hundreds of dollars for an electronic controller, I might end up making one. I'm an electrical engineer, so maybe I'll work on this as a side project. I'll start thinking about what kind of bells & whistles I might want. I'll run the 60 ohm econo as a short-term solution.

In that case, Mach5, you should check this site out:

http://www.howorld.net

It shows you how to make a multi-ohm setting controller.