Sounds pretty lude doesn't it?
Does anyone know the proper AC ( I think) voltage(s) for Aurora Vibrators? :confused:
Do they need special track? I've read that the AC accesory terminals on train power packs may work. Don't want to burn this out. Any info is greatly appreciated.

- Mike

Would have to agree when I saw the title. :devil: rr

They run great on regular DC,we actually race them on the dragstrip using DC.
DRAGjet

The transformers that were supplied with them are 24 v 1 amp AC. I don't know anything about running them on variable power supplies, etc., but they do seem to do better with the original transformer than with later DC units.

Vibes will run on DC, but my understanding is that the vibe transformers (model A1-B) can burn a tjet out pretty quick.

Vibes came with the same L&J track as tjets (except they used those bendy pot metal clips instead of plastic). Power hookup on a vibe track is 3 wire - one side is "common" and connects one rail in each lane. On t jets the terminals track had 4 screws, and you bridged the ground yourself or could run separate power supplies if you wanted to. Otherwise there is no difference.

24 v AC Mike.

Like Drag sez, I run on 22v DC...no sweat.

They'll run ok on 18v, but the extra "V's" do make a difference.

The whole ancient AC/DC dilemma was really about running the newer DC cars (t-jets) on previous Vibe AC powered tracks. You'll let all the smoke out of the wires...and ya cant put it back...LOL.

Periodically you'll see Aurora's rare oldschool rectifier box offered on the bay for upgrading Vibe tracks to run T-jets.

.

Hey Bill & the gang,

New to this board, hi to all!!
Just got my first Vibe, '60 Vette in grey. Missing broken windshield, rest is cherry. Figures.
Maybe pickup WS from RRR or make one, probably better to leave be, worth more ( or less...lol)
Thanks for tips. I had seem reference to AC power and well...never having one ( still strange design???????
Know better to run DC motors on AC.

Does anyone on here do Atlas or old Tyco?
Built a bit of a hot rod the other night from spare 45ish yr old parts. Damn near as fast as a new JL. Atlas C121 chassis, old early Tyco can motor ( haven't researched origin yet), used lowest Atlas gear ratio ( largest spur gear ) in conjunction with appropriate spline gear, white AJs silicones to handle the power tucked in a green Atlas Avanti had lying around ( anyone have a spare windshield for an Avanti?) Tyco motor screams compared to lower power Atlas cans.

Welcome!

You can source a windshield from RRR, stick it in with white glue, stays and looks good, and will come off with water if you come across an original. Cut cars, per hop up kit de-structions, aren't too hard to come by, some have a good WS to give.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/100_20431.JPG


No shortage of busted convertible WS or carved out wheel wells out there.

Splitposter,

Thanks for hope & the tip. My grey vibe is the condition of the red one but with driver head. Bottom edge of windshield still on. Have to investigate best way if removal is in the future.
Yup, parts are parts...junk yard dog to trailer queen. Just gimme a driver.
So many projects, so little time.....

mfinger (Don't want to call you MF lol), I did finish that project - makes a decent display car and nice runner. Original windshield was cracked, but repaired/cleaned up/shined up pretty good. Micromesh 8000, 12000 does wonders with the soft stuff.

Seems like most of the busted "glass" leaves residue, it crumbles off chiseling with the tip of a tiny screwdriver in some cases, and with care you won't gouge the body that way. It's a simple transplant, more patience than skill, I just like to bring them back....

jeff

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/vette_resto.jpg

... mind still in gutter.... will have more coffee and repeat as needed. nd

Jeff,

You might want to try dipping the newly polished/buffed windshield in Future to get some extra shine and clarity to it if need be. I used this trick when I modeled airplanes and would screw up the clear canopy. Polished out the problem and a couple coats of Future and you'd never know it had been messed up.

Have found that Nu-Finish car polish (Orange bottle) works great on polishing plastics. Thoughts?

Haven't used future on clear plastic, will have to give it a try.

I have used Testors to melt scratches/gouges smooth, and have been pleased with dry/wet sanding with 6000 up to 12000 grit. Wax added a little more gloss.

Just not sure about automotive polishes on old cycolac, as there are petroleum distallates in many. They remove road tar and stuff nicely, but I don't know if they could penetrate and cloud the finish or not.