:wave: Hello all. We have about 10 to 12 SCX 1:32 scale cars, that have the turn buckle hook up and front wheels steer with the slot pin. The Chassis, is like a real chassis. We are trying to find out, how valuble these particular cars are. NOT WANTING TO SELL THEM. Please feel free & open.

Thx All!

Need to see them....

Hello fgf60. Here's a few pics, of the SCX Slot Cars. The Wheels are turned......please note.

Thx fgf60!

The way the chassis is laid out, they look like F1/Indy style chassis, yet, you have those NASCAR looking bodies mounted on them. What gives it away, aside from the front wheels that turn, you have those turnbuckle connectors, as you are calling them, and the only slot cars that have that sort of detail are usually the F1/Indy cars because of the open wheels being exposed to the public view.

Also, those look a lot smaller than 1/32 - they look like the 1/43 SCX cars, but I could be wrong.

Any idea where you got them?

Value wise, if they are just chassis, they are worth no more than $15-$20 each, if they are really 1/32 scale chassis.

Hope that helps!
PD2:thumbsup:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Scx-Volvo-850T-Slot-Car_W0QQitemZ350000951606QQihZ022QQcategoryZ19853Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem
that is what you have, You can get them at a hobby shop for 25-30 new.and they are 1/32
search SCX Volvo SCX, photos and you will see lots of them, there were diffrent models that had them.

HERE A WHOLE TRUCK LOAD OF THEM..
http://www.foroslot.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12806&mode=threaded

:wave: Hello fgf60 & PD2. We want to let u 2 know, that the info, that you came up w/ was very helpful for our knowlege, on this type car. We hope to put these cars to work against the newer 1s. We think they will do the job.....just have to find the hop ups and set ups. If you have any, please feel free to give up the secrets. :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Scx-Volvo-850T-Slot-Car_W0QQitemZ350000951606QQihZ022QQcategoryZ19853Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem
that is what you have, You can get them at a hobby shop for 25-30 new.and they are 1/32
search SCX Volvo SCX, photos and you will see lots of them, there were diffrent models that had them.

Good find fgf60! Some original SCX models! Awesome stuff! That tells you how long I've been around. HA!

Marcus,

As for how to race prep these cars, I think you could probably go with the standards, but you need to be careful. A lot of tracks have specific rules of what you can and cannot do to the car. Some places are completely open while others give you certain limitations in motors, tires, gearing, etc. So with that said, I'd start at the place you will be racing and verify that they do not have some limitations and guidelines already set.

As for standards or rules of thumb, here are some good guidelines:

1. True up the wheels and tires - the wheels are simple; remove the tire from the wheel and go around the wheel removing any excess plastic flashing from when the wheel was in the mold. Some people remove the wheel and place it on a spare axle, chuck it into a dremel and then lay the wheel flat against a sheet of fine grit sandpaper to remove and smooth out the wheel - you just have to be careful when doing this as to not make the wheel go out or round or create any flat spots. As for the tires, you mount those back on the wheel and some people do the same method of sanding that I described for the wheels on the tires. Others just mount the wheels and tire back on the car and then lay the sandpaper on the track, hold the car and use the motor of the car to rotate and sand the tires down. Be sure you have an inspection block where you can put the car in the block and push it through so that the rear tires rotate through once. The idea is that you are to look level with the block surface and see if you can spot any daylight under the tires - if there is, then that means the tire is still not true and will creat vibrations in the car and possibly deslot the car.

2. If you can, check to see how well the rear axle fits in the bushings that they ride on. If there is any play, that will cause vibration in the car while its running and potentially deslot the car. Some people replace these bushings with bearings and it clears things right up. Others try the true up the bushings by first removing the axle, then applying some super glue to the bushings, and then shoving the axle back on. Once the axle is on, they rotate the axle in there by hand so that the axle does not become glued to the bushing, but instead, it dries/hardens and fills the gap that was there before. This is something you have to be very careful of when doing cause you could glue more than you want to.

3. Another thing that can be done is gluing the bushings/bearings that the rear axle rides on to the chassis so that it does not shift or attempt to move out of its holder when the RPM is applied. Some people do this while others do not.

4. Motors can be glued in, taped in, or secured in so that they do not hop out.

5. If you are magnet racing, sometime just upgrading the magnet to a nice magnet can make a world of difference! Again, this depends on your local tracks rules and I'd refer you to them for that info.

6. Guides and braids - you want the braids to laydown as flat as possible and be as wide as possible. Remember, we are trying to remove the things that deslot our cars while racing. Laying the braids as low as possible keeps the car planted in the slot. Plus, having the braids as wide as possible, insures that the power from the track is always making good contact with your motor. Guides need to be deep enough and offer the most turning radius. Some guides are deeper than others and you can replace the one on your car for one of these deeper ones - just be ware, because some times that also means the guide gets thicker and car cause your car to stick in the slot when running around the track.

7. The type of tires for the rear, specifically - I guess I should have put this above with the tires and wheels, but there are a variety of shore ratings and makes of tires out there. Many guys replace their stock tires with other manufacturers. For this recommendation, I'd consult with any local racers at your local track about what they run, as well as make sure you can change those tires per your local track's rules. If you can, there are various choices depending on how grippey or slick the track you race on is - try to determine the track surface and start asking around which tire would be best for that track surface.

I know that there are some other tips and tricks, but for now, these ought to get you started and on your way to setting up your car for the racing actions.

Hope you have fun! Its a great hobby full of great people!

PD2:thumbsup:

I really want to thank u guys for all the open help.

PD2.....I haven't ran my HO or my 1:32 cars in about 3 to 4 yrs. I know I will get the throttle finger back. I know this game, just been out and don't have the newer models. I also have some of the Scale, Ninco & Fly cars.....also. They all are about5 to 7 yrs old, but i think i can take'm. I Just will have to drive.