What weight on lipo are you guys inforcing in your lipo class. we thought about weighing each car in the class and averaging it and that would be the minimum weight.

Carolina RC Complex in Easley, S.C. runs 43 ozs. (2 lb 11 ozs.) I know you have to add a ton of weight to the car but the lighter the car is the harder it is to tune, so the weight may help any of your newer racers. Plus it makes it easier to combine the class with some 4 cell cars.

The other good thing about it is: two sections of led fit right in the top of a 3200 carbon pack and can be moved back and forth in the pack. REAL good way to shift weight!

that is way to much 43oz

40 or 41 is plenty

Out west we are 40oz. lipo classes and 4 cell classes

Our series has had a 38 oz weight rule for several years (Average car w/ 4 cell is OVER 40), but with the LIPOS cars can actually get down to 38.

I had planned to raise our rule to 40 for '08, but decided to KEEP IT @ 38 oz.

The main reason why is we are combining 4 cell/10.5's with LIPO 17.5's, and I feel they are more evenly matched with the lighter weight rule...(Especially since there is NO WAY anyone will come in that light w/ 4 cell)

We run mixed Lipo and NIMH so the Lipo car must weigh the same as standard NIMH set up.

I spoke with Donnie (Carolina RC Complex) Thursday about a couple of things:

1 - He wanted to know if the RC-Oval Series was going to run any LiPo classes for 2008?

YES - We will run a 21.5 class and a 17.5 class.

2 - We also discussed the weight rule. The weight for both classes in the series and at Carolina RC will be lowered to 2 LBS 9 OZS (41 ozs.)! starting the first of the year.

Our basic rules are Peak/Orion 3200 Carbon packs, Novak Motors and Novak and LRP Speedcontrols. Everything else should be covered under their electric class rules.

McLin would either class possibly be a truck class?????

Carolina RC Complex in Easley, S.C. runs 43 ozs. (2 lb 11 ozs.) I know you have to add a ton of weight to the car but the lighter the car is the harder it is to tune, so the weight may help any of your newer racers. Plus it makes it easier to combine the class with some 4 cell cars.

The other good thing about it is: two sections of led fit right in the top of a 3200 carbon pack and can be moved back and forth in the pack. REAL good way to shift weight!

I ran 21.5 LiPo today with our 13.5 4-cell class. The weight difference is HUGE in terms of chassis setup. I added weight to get my car up to 39 ounces, but it still pushed pretty good all day. So I agree for sure that the lighter car is more difficult to get fast. I think next time out, I'll bring it up to 41 ounces or so and see how that goes -- but to run at 39 ounces will take a bunch more car changes to get fast. It might be easier just to make it the same weight as it was with the 4-cell pack (closer setups).

I agree, 43 ozs. (ROAR weight) is a bit much but 38 or so ozs will be harder to set up. That's why we are going with 41 ozs.

Flipper: You bring up a good point. Let me get back to you in a few days after I talk with a few people.

I agree, 43 ozs. (ROAR weight) is a bit much but 38 or so ozs will be harder to set up. That's why we are going with 41 ozs.

With that said....even if the rule is 38oz, you would have to think if it's 'FASTER' or 'EASIER' to go fast with more weight...guys will ADD IT.

NOTE: My 21.5 lipo car on the VELO yesterday weighed 44.2 oz. (Even though our rules say they can be 38 oz...I also CHOOSE Heavy...)

I agree, 43 ozs. (ROAR weight) is a bit much but 38 or so ozs will be harder to set up. That's why we are going with 41 ozs.

Flipper: You bring up a good point. Let me get back to you in a few days after I talk with a few people.


Mclin why do you say hard to setup? It might be different but not hard!

Why would you want to make rules that have everyone adding weight to the cars? Weight is designed to keep cars equal not just to make them heavy.

Why not take the heaviest known car made and make that the weight rule or is that what the 41oz. rule came from?

The Lipo is 3 oz. lighter why not just subtract that from the rules like roar has and make it 40oz.? We are talking caps here not foams!

My setup for 21.5 is totaly different then my 13.5 setup But about the same speed. we still havn't decided on a wieght rule yet. we are still experimenting with the body choice this weekend George is going to run a COT body with a regular wing to if we may want to do that. we tryed the COT body and any body without a wing but had no stability. then we tryed any body with a wing and we all had a ball.

Brian0525, My reasoning was that the 43 ozs that ROAR requires is ridiculously high and the 38 ozs that some wanted was ridiculously low. So, I went with a compromise weight that is what a lot of tracks are already running with brushed motors and regular batteries. Another of the things I tried to keep in mind is the “lack of change” that the racer had to get use to when they made the switch to LiPo.

One more thing is that you can get the car lower than 41 ozs. So, you can add weight on the indention of the Orion pack and get a weight transfer closer to a 4 cell pack. Again, less “change” to adapt to.

Brian0525, My reasoning was that the 43 ozs that ROAR requires is ridiculously high and the 38 ozs that some wanted was ridiculously low. So, I went with a compromise weight that is what a lot of tracks are already running with brushed motors and regular batteries. Another of the things I tried to keep in mind is the “lack of change” that the racer had to get use to when they made the switch to LiPo.

One more thing is that you can get the car lower than 41 ozs. So, you can add weight on the indention of the Orion pack and get a weight transfer closer to a 4 cell pack. Again, less “change” to adapt to.

I understand where you are coming from but just hated to see the heaviest cars made adding 1 1/2 ounces to make weight. 41 is definitely better than 43 thank you for some compromise. I will definitely be over to Easley for some Lipo racing!

Brian, you should follow the whole series! It's going to be a blast and the Nat's will be a points race as well.

McLin Schedule for the series next year??

I added 2 oz of led on top of my 3200 carbons to make the NIMH to Lipo change smoother, With the 2 oz's my weight is 41.6. I had planned to begin to lower the weight once I got the car setup where I could make changes and get the expected result. My thinking was changing from 13.5 nimh to 21.5 lipo was going to be enough different without the weight dropping 3 oz and me tring to figures what direct to go. I am one of those "one change at a time guys" sort of sneakup on changes a little at a time.

I added 2 oz of led on top of my 3200 carbons to make the NIMH to Lipo change smoother, With the 2 oz's my weight is 41.6. I had planned to begin to lower the weight once I got the car setup where I could make changes and get the expected result. My thinking was changing from 13.5 nimh to 21.5 lipo was going to be enough different without the weight dropping 3 oz and me tring to figures what direct to go. I am one of those "one change at a time guys" sort of sneakup on changes a little at a time.

You sure snuk up on me saturday in the main LOL. Good clean racin. :wave:

guys one of the things to think about in the set up is where the added weight is being placed. from the t plate forward will add nose weight more nose weight= tighter car. front tplate screw back adds rear weight = looser.

i see alot of guys say they just added the weight to the pack on top. imop that is no good. that is alot of weight being placed up high.

if it were me I would add the weight right down the left side of the chassis as far out as I could. then place the pack out against that. another thing to look at is changing all the lower chassis screws to steel or stainless.

I with you dave You mess up your center of gravity. Are you changing the screws to make more weight?

yah if you have to add weight then wy not add it with screws

...... I am one of those "one change at a time guys" sort of sneakup on changes a little at a time.The best way to make changes.:thumbsup:

Stoneman, sneakin up is the best way, we had some good give and take for awhile until I got greedy and tried using to much of the paint and got under to pipe coming out of 2. Darn, it was fun for bit, we will have to do it again.

Stoneman, sneakin up is the best way, we had some good give and take for awhile until I got greedy and tried using to much of the paint and got under to pipe coming out of 2. Darn, it was fun for bit, we will have to do it again.
Yes But you'll have to catch me first.LOL until stricklands :wave:

Wade, I'm working on it now. Hope to have all the dates and places locked in soon. I will post it here and on the RC-Oval site.

So what kind of speeds are you seeing with the 3200/21.5? We are trying to start a new class and I would like to go this route, but would like to know how fast it is first. Are the times faster, slower, or close to the same with stock?

So what kind of speeds are you seeing with the 3200/21.5? We are trying to start a new class and I would like to go this route, but would like to know how fast it is first. Are the times faster, slower, or close to the same with stock?

The class is about 6 tenths faster then fast stock guys at our track and 1 sec. faster then the average stock times. it is closer to 19 turn or 13.5 speeds about 2 tenths slower then them.

So what kind of speeds are you seeing with the 3200/21.5?

We were able to get it to just over 52 mph on the Encino Velodrome last weekend. The fastest lap times on this huge track were about 1 full second per lap faster than the normal 27t Stock class, and we ran a fast 27 laps, compared to the normal fast 25 laps that stock turns.

This is quite a bit faster than I had hoped this combo would be, but the bright site is, even with the speed the cars are pretty easy to drive and they actually FEEL slower... (Feels like NO rip off the corners)