Hi Guys,
I'd like to hear about the various techniques which have been used to create power taps in plastic track. I just reviewed an article I saw a few years back.

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/power_taps.html

Before I use this method, I just want to see what other methods have been used. Also, what type and size wire. Solid wire or stranded?

I have set up my Tyco/Mattel track and I am not going to use the standard terminal tracks since it is a four laner and I do not want the side tabs. Earlier today I took a Mattel terminal track and cut off the side tab thinking I could use the already attached metal strips from underneath. It came out a little less than desireable, but it is still a possibility.

Thanks...Joe

I posted these methods a while back.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=154450

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=174705

Tycoarm

There are many ways to do it. Here is the way I did it.

I used a small drill bit (one just about as large as the core of 14 guage solid wire) to drill from the top of the track all the way through the table top. This is a permantntly mounted track BTW.

From below, I drilled up through the hole already there with a slightly larger drill, one that was a little bigger than the diameter of the 14 guage wire including the insulation. I marked the bit with tape, so that I would not drill all the way through the track.

The holes in the track were right along side the rail. I took a #11 blade and made these holes "D" shaped, with the straight part of the "D" being the track rail.

Then I fed the 14 guage solid wire (which was stripped about one inch or so) up from below until it was near the track rail. Then I soldered it in place. I used low melting point solder and had no problem with track melting. I had a total of 4x3 taps. I used some fine files to clean up the track rail when I was finished.

Here is a picture looking from below at one of the tap areas.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=47364

I could post a picture from above if you would like to see it, but there is not much to see ;)

I went with the method that Tycoarm had posted. It's a fairly simple method, and has worked fine for me.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1840471&highlight=tycoarm#post1840471

Joe,if you do use Scott's (your link) system, move the tap to the track joint and use a bit of solder,that way you've got 2 sections locked together and drop wired/jumpered.
18G is lots big enough as your short jumper to track rail,try to make your main wire frame from 12G though.

Joe-
My system works pretty well and we have it on 2 different tracks. But over the years I have improved some areas that aren't on the website. And the pictures don't show you everything;

-When you loop the solid core wire through the track you need at least 3/4 inch out the bottom to twist tightly. This picture is inaccurate and the leads going back into the track should be probably twice as long as this example:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/18gawiretaps3.jpg

-You could solder the track connection and the twisted leads underneath.
-You could use soldered cconnection eyelets instead of crimped.
-You should fold the wire back about 3-4" under the track and glue it to the track bottom to secure the connection. (you may have to notch the support ribs) This allows you to route the wires through your table away from the connection point so the wires aren't hanging from the connection point.
-Scott

I like your way of adding jumpers Scott,used it on the last track i built.
It works great on Tyco track,i used your idea to lock 2 sections together where the rails slide together at the track joint.
Being slightly anal, i did solder the wire to the rails,but i don't think it'd be a requirement.
For solder i use Kester's Hi-Tech Electronic rosen core solder,it's melting point is 190.
For short jumpers i use fire alarm solid core wire,just cause i got access to cut-off's,but another wire that's good for jumpers is normal household door bell wire.
Another option i stumbled into just awhile ago,is to use paper clips as your short jumpers,they are made of fairly good quality steel,and they are easy to solder to rails+plus they are pre-stripped.
Usually they are long enough to go completely through your table,where you can then solder them to your main 12G or 14G wire frame

I am going to be doing the power taps onto the newer designed Mattel track. This design incorporates a 90 degree bend at the end of the rail on 4 of the eight rail tips (1 per lane on each side). Much like the Z bend on Tomy track.

This newer design then does not allow you to slip something over the rail on two adjacent pieces, since one side will have the 90 degree bend.

I am however seeing if I can somehow use rail removed from broken pieces of track. It would be a little like Tycoarm's method except I would be using rail rather than N guage joiners.

By the way, how do you think they stamp the metal strips on terminal tracks to the rails? I can't figure that out. I'm guessing the track is molded, rail inserted, rail is then stamped over on the bottom (to secure it in place) and then the metal strips are attached to the rails. But how?

Thanks...Joe

I used Scott's method on my track and have been pleased. I drilled the holes through the tabletop about 4 inches from where the wires attach to the track so there was some tension there keeping the wires from simply getting pulled off the track (as he mentioned). I made sure to test each tap as if it were the sole power source to be assured the connection was successful.

I also took a file to the surface area when all was completed so it was smooth and not catching the cars.

By the way, how do you think they stamp the metal strips on terminal tracks to the rails? I can't figure that out. I'm guessing the track is molded, rail inserted, rail is then stamped over on the bottom (to secure it in place) and then the metal strips are attached to the rails. But how?


Just to follow up on this point, I took my Mattel terminal track and tried to bend the underside metal strips 90 degrees - so they would point downward rather than out the side. One came off and I got a chance to see how they are connected. It looks like they are simply laid on the rail (on the underside of the track) and then pushed/stamped onto the rail (making a small dent). There is no apparent reason for why the metal strip stays against the rail - it is not soldered and is not crimped. The only thing I can figure is that the metal strips are glued to the bottom of the track at the same time they are pushed over the rail. They are then held in place (somewhat) by little posts.

In other words, the connection is very fragile and the strips are not connected very well. After looking at it, I wouldn't trust it as my sole electrical connection.

Joe