I figure if I use this cheap airbrush enough maybe I'll get used to it and I won't hate it so much. I've hade to really thin out the paint to get it to go on smooth, is that just a fact of life with external mix brushes?

Anyway, here they are, two more Ferraris for the collection, a VW/Porshe 910 graft from Alfaslot1 and Good Nash,Bad Nash. :D

Love the Metros

Looks good!! :thumbsup:

Wes

I like them! The corvair...err uhhm I mean Ghia-910k morph (yeah, that's it! :thumbsup: )is kind of "wolverine-ish".....sweet! :thumbsup:

Those are some clean looking paint jobs. Looks like you getting the hang of your temporary Pasche $20.00 Air Brush alright! Hope your Badger gets up and running soon. Now you have a compressor to use also which is way better than the can....man. (I read a post from another post so, that is how I know all of this) lol

I had a Pasche for many, many years. Since I was 12 (43 now) and just switched to a Iwana 2 years ago. What ever you got is what you got to work with. Hooked on painting you are. :woohoo:

Bob...zilla

I like them! The corvair is kind of "wolverine-ish".....sweet! :thumbsup:

Poor Joe. Hair must be getting in his eyes. ;) That's actually a VW Karman Ghia with a 910K rear grafted to it. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the compliments, guys. Once I worked out how to get around the drawbacks of a cheap external mix brush things got a little easier to deal with. I still hate it though. I'm actually thinking of getting a good double action brush. That might take me in some new directions.

SNIP: Poor Joe. Hair must be getting in his eyes. ;) That's actually a VW Karman Ghia with a 910K rear grafted to it. :thumbsup:

.

OOPS! Must be the meds.... :freak:

Dragon.
Unless you use paint from the rattle can... in the airbrush ,, it is normal to have to cut it.. my rule of thumb is cut it till it is about as thick as milk maybe thinner.. like i said rule of thumb. If I pull it straight from a rattle can I can usually shoot it straight from the airbrush with no problems.. Air pressure will vary but you need a good regulator/drier set up if you are using a compressor. I do alot of test fires on the wall of the paintbooth till I get is set right.
Badger dual action air brush.. off of my shop air. I also use the bottles instead of the metal well most of the time..
Chris

Dragon.
Unless you use paint from the rattle can... in the airbrush ,, it is normal to have to cut it.. my rule of thumb is cut it till it is about as thick as milk maybe thinner.. like i said rule of thumb. If I pull it straight from a rattle can I can usually shoot it straight from the airbrush with no problems.. Air pressure will vary but you need a good regulator/drier set up if you are using a compressor. I do alot of test fires on the wall of the paintbooth till I get is set right.
Badger dual action air brush.. off of my shop air. I also use the bottles instead of the metal well most of the time..
Chris

I've been using those same principles in my badger for 20 years. But when I used that very same paint in the Paasche it looked like sandpaper when it was done. I had to make it almost like water for the paint to finish smooth.

One of the reasons I like Pactra racing finish paints is the bottle screw right into the siphon cap for the airbrushes. Less clean-up. I don't have to clean out the bottle just put a cap on it and go.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr

I want a Metropolitian Real Bad. Where did you get it (the Good Metro)
Thanks,
Dawg

I want a Metropolitian Real Bad. Where did you get it (the Good Metro)
Thanks,
Dawg

Good Nash came from Alfaslot1. (now known on e-bay as Giperjet) He has a lot of cool T-jet bodies. They do take more than beginner level skill to finish properly but when they're done right they're fantabulariffic.

The Ferrari SuperAmerica and the VeeDub are also Alfas. Bad Nash is from B&BGoodies and the Ferrari 365BB is from Hellonwheels8.

From Germany with love... Well, more like an indifferent tolerance, but that's just Germany. ;)

Finished a few other paint projects and started a few more.

Good Nash, Bad Nash is complete And here's a couple more Cavallinos.

Since i have this love of the older GTP cars, I thought I would get my '87-89 Nissan GTP ZX-Turbo done(finally). Here are a couple photos of the 2nd body I casted this morning. I am one mold away from calling it my master. Then I can cast from there. I casted the rear wing separately for ease of casting the main body. I will move on to the '87 GTP Corvette next.

Since i have this love of the older GTP cars, I thought I would get my '87-89 Nissan GTP ZX-Turbo done(finally). Here are a couple photos of the 2nd body I casted this morning. I am one mold away from calling it my master. Then I can cast from there. I casted the rear wing separately for ease of casting the main body. I will move on to the '87 GTP Corvette next.

Very nice -- is that mounted up or just sitting loose over a chassis for the pics?

This will be for the Super G+ with the clip, right?

Oh, come on, show the finished one you posted at SCI. ;)

Oh, come on, show the finished one you posted at SCI. ;)

You mean this one :cool: ..... :lol:

That was from the original cast I made....oh???...3-4 years ago. It was the only resin one I ever painted, and was for a customer. It was modeled for the Tyco pan chassis.

This newer cast is for the Tomy SG+ , or can be modified to fit the Tyco. I did this due to popular consensus that this needed to fit the Tomy, rather than the obsolete Tyco. :rolleyes: Either way, I will have to make at least one more generation mold to get to the final master. Once I'm satisfied, I will stick a couple masters in the cabinet for future molds. I can only get 20-35 bodies from each mold before the silicone starts to deteriorate.

To answer your question 'Doba...yes it is "sitting loose" on a SG+ for the photo. I have not mounted it yet. I would assume, due to it's width, that I will mount it using the body clip or mold separate mounting blocks I will include with the body, wing, vacu windows kit.

You mean this one :cool: ..... :lol:



fastlap.....I LOVE IT!

:woohoo:

This is/was one of my all time favorite cars, I used to race these in lexan years ago.

I've been trying to find a diecast to cast for some time now.......Smooth the sides of the nose out, and finish what ever else that needs done and LMK when complete, I'm interested in one, or two...no, no three....well just LMK when complete.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com (http://www.slotcarjohnnies.com/)

Worked this body alittle last night to get the wheeel openings centered properly for the Tomy SG+ chassis using the longer wheelbase. Still need to clean up the front nose before final polishing. Cut the windows out to see what type of interior clearence I've got. Not Much! (darn Tomy chassis!!) I still have a couple optical illusions for a interior setup. I may still sell the body with resin cast windows for the racers out there. The biggest drawback with resin bodies over injection plastic is the brittleness of resin. It needs to be thicker to survive. The mounting system I will have to use for the wider GTP bodies will be bulky compared to mounts molded in like a AFX plastic injection body. We'll have to see on that one. That's another reason I used the Tyco Pan over the Tomy. It's own bulky mounting tabs lent itself well to mounting wider resin bodies. Oh well, got to move along with the times. here are a few progress photos.

Gary

Fastlap-

PM/EM me your address, and I'll send you one each of the interiors we have been making (for several years now).....we use them in lexan GTP type IMSA cars, no reason it shouldn't work in resin.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com

The original Turbo Nissan GTP cars are demanding some big bids. See item 300173029918 for an auction ending this evening. The bid's currently at $118. The seller had a couple different Nissan GTP cars up recently.

I have the Amada Nissan GTP car and as fastlap suggests will happen with his new body, it handles horribly because of the relatively bulky tail. It's got a lot more overhang than any other GTP car in my collection. Honestly, the paint job isn't that great on those Nissans so the price must be based on the rarity. They're not the greatest lookers. Still, I'd love to get a couple of fastlap's new bodies when they're ready and run them on X-Traction chassis if he molds them as wide "females" instead of narrow "males". I'd also be happy if they fit an HP7 chassis or wide Tyco 440X2.

Most recent works on the bench:

Still experimenting with the new airbrush but I'm liking the control already.

My latest truck project. Not quite finished yet, have a few more colors to shoot.