I have been playing around trying to find more corner speed out of my fleet of Tomy Super G+ cars.After many wall shots with the brittle chassis Tomy supplied with there older SG+ cars.I replaced ALL of my older SG+ cars with the BSRT "medium" chassis.BSRT done a nice job with these chassis.I have six of the "new plastic" chassied SG+ cars and these chassis are on par with the BSRT chassis.The second thing to be replaced was the out of round wobbly front & rear hubs/tires.For the front on went some BSRT delrin independant front end assemlies.These get the front of the cars down on the track.They also aid in letting the cars get through the corners better with the inependant rotating wheels/tires.The rears get a set of AJ's .063 hubs/silicone tires combo.These bring the traction mags closer to thr rails for better stick.I also replace the Tomy copper pick-up shoes with some brass BSRT Qualifer pick-up shoes.These shoes also bring the front end down to the track.At the moment i dont have a lap timing system on my track but i can tell you these mods make a huge difference in how quickly these cars get around my track.I the first pic you can see the replacement stuff on the left and the stock stuff on the right.In the fourth pic is a "new plastic" chassied Tomy SG+ car-a BSRT G3 car with the hop-ups added and a BSRT G3 car with stock narrow BSRT wheels/hubs & wide ceramic traction mags.The last pic is my newest Tomy car with all the mods mentioned.Can you say-"FAST"!!! If anyone else has good mods for the Tomy SG+ cars feel free to post.

i like the pre-tweaked BSRT front endbell, and the rear bushing with the flange. both BSRT parts.

i like the pre-tweaked BSRT front endbell, and the rear bushing with the flange. both BSRT parts.


I have installed the standard gold plated BSRT motor endbells before as replacements.Personally i think these cars are "plenty" fast in the motor department.They just need a little help getting through the corners.If you take a new Tomy SG+ car with the new plastic version chassis and add the "shoes-independant front ends and hubs & silicone tires" i suggested it will only cost you around $12.Obviously if you had to replace the chassis too thats another $10.Thats not a silly amount of money to have a silly fast car! :)

For extra speed we also replce the Tomy molded plastic bodies with vacuum formed bodies, here are some from our last racemeet with a vacuum formed GT40 body:

http://neophytte.mine.nu/photo/2007-11-10-HO_Slotcar_Meet/

and earlier last year on Mini's:

http://neophytte.mine.nu/photo/2006-05-06-HO_slotcar_meet/

But generally we run F1 bodies:

http://neophytte.mine.nu/index.php?Type=SuperSearch&SearchIn=slot

Cheers

Richard

This site has tips for all classes of HO cars. Its a discussion board where guys discuss goin' faster. Something for everyone!!
Tuning your pickup springs can add speed and handlling cheap. mj

http://www.ho-tips.org/

Look at some of the older Tomy Super G+ cars in the hobby shop and see if you can find one with the "2 Dot" grey traction mags. These are stronger than the newer black traction mags. Or maybe your local slot shop or an online dealer can get you a pair or three.

They literally are grey in color and have two very obvious dots molded into them.

The early 2 dot traction mags were a low level polymer magnet,the later black mags are a ceramic magnet

Hey Rick from what I've seen and been told, stock SG+ "set car" mags from a little while back were ceramic, very obviously too by the cut marks. The dark black mags in current rollers and maybe (?) newer set cars are polymer in some form, take an audible continuity test across one, you might have to push the points in a hair but you will get a tone. I've never disected one, I've been told it is a poly (magnetic) coating over ceramic. ????

*edit:
From Scale Auto's online catalog:

The AFX Super G-Plus car features a very stiff frame, twin polymer traction magnets for handling, adjustable wheelbase, adjustable motor timing, a floating body mount system and much more.

Thanks Gene,hey learn something new everyday,that's my motto.
I gotta admit i'm a little behind on G news. :thumbsup:
Gene get ahold of Wendell,he's got a pretty good tip for G's,best one i've heard for awhile,being the crafty old devil you are,you might'a picked up Wendells tip by now,but if you haven't,he's got a good one :thumbsup:

I thought he wasn't givin' it up just yet! Maybe I saw it and forgot it, being as you say a crafty old guy.

:D

I think ya gotta say pretty please,he is being a bit closed mouth'd about it :p

Here's a link to some older G tips,i'm to lazy to reprint my tips,and there's a few good ones from other guys here.

http://www.canho.ca/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=145

And if you're into the hardcore end of things,there's some pic's of modified G endbells here,ie:helper spring equipped endbells etc.,the pics are down aways in the post

http://www.canho.ca/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=163

It would be interesting to do a tuning article that shows the different tuning paths, cost, and corresponding results. Along the lines of those gear head shows on TV (Horsepower TV?) where they start adding speed parts and measure the results on a dyno. Bang for the buck kind of thing. A chart that shows 1) the mods made, 2) the cost, and 3) the corresponding performance improvement would be ideal.

On the low end I'd start with:

1) Ream the motor bushing to somewhere in the 0.060 - 0.063 range. If you want to go old school and don't own reamers, press a standard Tomy 0.063 rear axle through the bearing. Make sure it goes through straight and clean it up any edges that remain with a rat tail file. Cost varies depending on whether you have a reamer, wheel press, or no tools.

2) Double flanged rear hubs with silicone tires. Cost for hubs is around $2.00, and each pair of tires will set you back a buck or two. I'd recommend 3 sets of tires, one nominal, one size lower, and one size higher. You'll need to know your rim size to determine which sets of tires to buy to get the different total wheel+tire heights. SuperTires slip-ons are designed for a nominal 0.250 rim so mounting them on a smaller or larger rim will change their effective wheel+tire height. For example, on a .250 hub a .438 tire will give you .438 total size, while the same tire on a .265 hub will give you a .456 total size.

3) Replace the Tomy 0.063 rear axle with a Tyco 0.059 rear axle. Unfortunately the used Tomy crown gear will probably not stay on the smaller Tyco axle so you'll have to buy a new crown gear. A stock Tomy 25 tooth is okay, but if you want to spend a couple more dollars and get a little more speed a BSRT 23 tooth crown would work. If you want ultra smoothness and a smaller diameter gear a Slottech 23 tooth is a premium choice. Again, look for bang for the buck. If your track is really large with few or no 6 inch turns, consider a 22 tooth gear.

3a) I also prefer to run a Tyco 7 tooth pinion rather than the stock or BSRT 7 tooth ones. Personal preference. They cost about 50 cents each.

4) Learn how to tweak your shoe hangers. Hard to describe in words. I'm sure someone here has a picture. Cost = free.

5) Break in your endbell and bushings by running the car without a rear end on 4-6V for at least 30 minutes. Oil it and check it periodically to make sure it's still running smoothly and not in need of more oil. Some folks run theirs for hours at 3-4 volts. Just don't feel tempted to turn the voltage up too high. I'd say 9V max.

6) Test and tune. Get a silver Sharpie and mark the bottom of your chassis and magnets and start track testing. You want to see a nice, thin straight line form gradually on both magnets over time. Don't drag the magnets on the rails! If you are, raise the rear by mounting the next size taller tire. If you get no lines, lower the rear by mounting the next size smaller tire. Remark the chassis and magnets after making changes. Keep an eye on the temperature. Run the car for a 15 minutes at a time with a 10 minute cooldown period after the run. Try to get a couple of hours running time on the chassis before thinking it's race ready.

I didn't mention any of the normal shoe and spring related stuff since others have covered these.

Just to add a bit for you Dave.
Your ears are your best tuning device,learn to listen to the car,the noise it makes will tell you lots.

If you go through this post,i think back on pg 4 is a link to On-slot's howto article on brush arm replacements in a G endbell,there's also a pic showing On-Slots replacement brushes for a G somewhere in that post

http://www.canho.ca/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=138&start=0

I suggest we get this thread moved to the Slot Car Tuning Tips forum so it's easier to find later on.

Rider Z your 3rd chassis in the 4th photo is the 908 SS version of the G3 (wide traction mags). You may find those front tires on this chassis are a bit low depending on what kind of track you have. If it's Tyco or Tomy plastic then for sure you may want to bump up to the old front tires. The key is to see how the front end rolls and how the shoes are wearing. You should put that independent front end end on that chassis. ;)

Nice choice on the AJ's silicones for the one chassis. Do you know the diameter? I have always liked the .410's on any SG+ chassis running on plastic sectional.

http://www.happyhobby.com/hobb_html/images/ajs/1101903202.JPG

-Scott

Hey SlottV those are the AJ's tires i run on all of my SG+ chassis.I am going to order more sets of the BSRT independant fronts.I have four SG+'s that came with the new chassis with the Super International set i bought that need the front ends installed.I have two SG+ cars & two BSRT G3's with the G3 front & rear wheel/tire setup.These cars all run real well with the BSRT wheel/tires.One in particular is a SG+ that has a BSRT chassis & the BSRT wheel/tires is by far my fastest of the bunch.Go figure! :)

Heres a few shots of the rest of my SG+ cars that have the BSRT chassis on them The white & black AFX sponsored #5 car is an absolute rocket.The picture with the blue Hurricane car & yellow Penzoil car are all out of the box BSRT cars.These came with the black chassis.I am assuming these are the "stiff" chassis.Please let me know if i am correct.ALL are real fast. :)

There's some good tips here for G's

http://planetofspeed.net/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=3723&start=0

http://planetofspeed.net/BBS/viewtopic.php?t=3730&start=0&sid=c1613a4e4776de3a3a0b347e17efa903

No one has mentioned lapping (breaking in) the gears. It makes for smoother faster, quieter, cooler running cars. I use Simichrome chrome polish on the gears using the BSRT G-jet power source at 4.5v. I run the car at least 2 hours and up to 6. Clean gears well then lube. Guaranteed. mj

No one has mentioned lapping (breaking in) the gears. It makes for smoother faster, quieter, cooler running cars. I use Simichrome chrome polish on the gears using the BSRT G-jet power source at 4.5v. I run the car at least 2 hours and up to 6. Clean gears well then lube. Guaranteed. mj
I checked out the Planet of Speed tips. "Dean" (i think of BSRT) laps gears and axle for 24 HOURS!! I just did a build and it's going on the break in for 24 we'll see. mj