I was starting up my tsunami truggy today and everytime i applied brakes it killed engine almost immediately. what is causing this???I am at a loss on this one.help would be GREATLY appreciated.

It is your Idle screw is too far out= turn it in till it high Idles then hold your brakes while you turn the Idle screw out to where it idles without stalling. OR it is a wore out set of clutch bell bearings=hold it off the ground with it running if the tires are turning while it is Idling you have bad bearings. Try the Idle screw first.

ok i doubt it is bearings because this is new vehicle that just finished break in 1 tank ago.but the idle screw is a definate possability. I am new to nitro and this engine tuning crap is killin me. I have the hardest time starting it even after priming or using throttle trim. still took me about 50 cranks today after sitting for only 5 days. I know it must be something i'm doing wrong, but im reading all the stuff i can about it. and still doesn't start easy from cold for me.warm is no problem now..but not cold.it ran great 5 days ago when i shut it off. then today it had that brake kill problem from the start.not sure if i adjusted idle or not between that time so it could have been my own fault.idle was high today during the 1 hour or so i had it out. but most of that time was spent starting and restarting the dam thing when it died cause of the brake problem. then my ignitor went dead so the day was over before i ever got the body on to play with it. but idle was very high last few times i got it to start. I was messin with idle screw and low speed needle and really had no clue what i did or how to fix it.

try holding your finger over the end of the exhaust while you crank it when it is cold.This will force fuel into the carberator.A couple 5 cranks should do it.

Another good way to prime the engine..
With power off turn the servo horn so the throttle opens up. Then kink off the pressure line on the tank, and pull the tank lid up and down a couple times. If you have clear fuel tube you can watch the fuel travel thru the fuel line to the carb.

If you just finished break-in you should try changing the glow plug.

To check idle you really have to take the air filter off. Then by hand (power off again) turn the servo to brakes. Look down the carb throat.. With brakes applied the carb should stay open at least the width of a fat paper clip. If not it will likely stall.

And the best tip.. the first time you break the pullstarter invest in a bump box. Nothing sucks worse than yanking that dang rope 50 times to try starting an out of tune engine. And you can't tune it properly if you can't start it.

Hopefully you just have an incorrect idle setting.

thanks for your help/reply(both of you)I took a look at the brakes tonight to find out why i had no braking power and found that that brake disk was not on the shaft it spins on cause the shaft had slid out a bit.don't know why but i pushed it back in and now i have brakes again.tomarrow morning (saturday)i'm going to be at it again trying to start this baby up and tune it correctly now that i have a temp gun.just gotta get it to start first. i'm sure it was the idle screw being out too far and i fixed that.we shall see in the morning.thanks agian for now.

When you tune your engine run it in an area big enough to do an oval.Then the simplest way I can explain it is try to stay on the throttle as much as possoble.Roll the corners at 1/8 throttle then full down the strait. Listen to the engine as you lean it out an hour at a time. It will start to smooth out. When you get it just smoothed out. Fill it up with fuel again while it its hot,then run it a few laps if it has a slight miss and smoke the first couple of laps thats perfect your temp. will be under 230. I have done this to every engine I own. I then turn the low mixture screw in until it starts to rev up really high(lean) when it is Idling then I back it out(rich) till when you slightly hit the throttle it returns to an Idle without high Idling at full brake.When backing it out change it,Then wait 10 seconds hit the throttle and see if it stalls if it is too rich it will usally puff smoke and stall.Lean it out. If it boggs out before reving it is too rich.You should be able to let it Idle for at least 10-15 seconds hit the throttle and it should slightly bog and smoke the first time when you rev it. The second time it will sound like stepping on a CAT! I can have an engine tuned in less than a tank full of fuel, at the bottom of the tank of fuel your temp will be around 240-260 which is fine.Just aim for the 200-230 for playing your engine will like you.

well i took it out yesterday and FINALLY got to have some fun with it. I mashed it up pretty good though.I learned something real quick. dont' put your ramp where the truggy is gonna land on pavement. It tore up the bottom pretty bad. and when it flipped the body got cremed..lol. i ended up blowing 3 tire seals,(think it was a crappy factory glue job)ripped into the body mounts a bit, and worst of all, lost my 4wheel drive dogbone and endpiece in the early going! although i must say it did rather decent even with only 2 wheel drive.now i gotta figure out how to get the 4wheel drive parts back in.and the tuning still needs some work. but overall..it did great and i had a blast.it was still runnin at the end of the day and thats all that matters.