I have been out of rc oval for quite a while, I have done some touring cars electric and nitro, but I am looking to get my new car upto speed. I have a basically stock 10l4, I would like to know what front end is on the car. Also what would be anything that is a must have for flat ozite oval racing. It has a 4300 motor and Super sport speedo. It has a decent futaba servo in it as well. Links to the goodies would be awesome.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

looks like a box stock l4, and someone did some whacking to your battery tray. id try to get the speedo over on the left side of the car, looks like youd have to get new wires for the speedo to do it cause someone shortened em. id get an adjustable center shock mount too, lots of diferant companys make em, hyperdrive, rip, ksg.

I agree get an adjustable center shock mount. If you can in time try getting a silva battery tray and brace for it. This will make space for your ESC and reciever thus getting the weight way out there on the left.

Something I did on mine is get the right size dubro collar with the set screw. Use these to replace the E-clips on the upper hinge pins in the IRS caster blocks. I use the IRS hinge pins putting them in the front of the set up. I do it this way starting at the front...head of hinge pin- caster block- caster shim or shims ( depending on your setup for caster)upper A arm then the Dubro collar. It's simple and very easy to work on at the track. Trust me once those teeny tiny ever soooooooo small e clips go flying forget finding them almost all the time.

Wher might you be racing this winter ???? If it's in the mid atlantic area maybe we'll run into each other.

bigemike
Try a Darkside Adjustable Center Shock Mount from rc4less. Best price I've found and they do the job. Also TBRC1's suggestion is good. Those little e-clips are a pain in the a$$.
http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/5/488.htm?289
:woohoo:

Ditto on the shock mount, esc, and Silva Tray...Also get the Silva Battery tray mount...It will move the batteries more to the left... Ask Chuck Phaler to seee his L4 car when you get to the track on friday... It has a silva battery tray and silva tray mount on it...

IMHO if it were me, Id lose the Front castor blocks...I never cared for having all that metal up there... I just run the new style 12th scale plastic associated 0 degree castor blocks myself..They are light and cheap I think I was getting them for like $3 a pack.. ..


For 4300 running weekly in cincinnati you going to need those things plus an assortment of springs Front and rear, an assortment of shims for the front kingpins and rear axle, and some good tires to be able to run with the guys in 4300..

Myself and a few others plan to be down there this friday doing some tuning.. Hopefully you can make it down. :thumbsup:

BIGEMIKE,
Your choice of car to get back into oval is a good one. :) Most of the suggestions are very good. I disagree with removing the aluminum caster blocks because you loose the ability to adjust the roll center of the car. Yes I do make them but Associated includes them for a good reason, adjustability. We are working on a better design that is lighter and adds another adjustment.
Get the tray and extender from Silva it helps. I would also get pod plates that allow you to run your tires smaller. There are several companies making them.
If you want to ask me any questions you can e-mail me @ irsaxles@verizon.net

Dave Irrgang

You can't go wrong with the IRS lowered pod plates for carpet racing if you are running a 10L3/10L4. You will be able to get the value out of them by being able to run your foam tires longer and also a smaller diameter which makes running on high bite carpet easier.

ASC4561>>>Not package dynamic asc ones.... Just walk around and look at what front end setup the FAST guys are running***Im not saying they all run these blocks..But look at the placement of the hinge pin***For flat track***... No carrying weight up high on the front end... and no holes messing with your head when your getting back into it and trying to dial the car in.. Ive seen some of the fastest guys in the hobby running with these blocks..

But run what you want.. I dont manufacture any of them...Although I do make plastics machines :thumbsup:

Good catch on the pod plates... Get those and a set of the adjustable ride height block/bearing carriers...

cool, the pod plates sound like the same thing we used to do to the 1/12th scale onroad cars. They allowed the axle to get low. Is the silva battery tray and mount something that the hobby shop can get. I would like to support them as much as possible.

Thanks for the help everyone, I will get some new wire and work on the speedo, I got some fresh 4200 packs from john last night and some bsr tires. I took a look at chucks car over the weekend and it looked good, but I didn't really get a chance to see his tray setup.

The first mod I used on my L4 was the Silva tray and brackett which helped some but now I use the full chassis conversion kit, with the addition of a Med Spring Steel T plate, Darkside adj shock mount (3-4th hole) Beefy Product front Spring/ kingpin (long), KSG adj servo mounts. Run BSR tire now (jaco and rc4less) LF white or green, RF gray or gray silver 50/50, LR pearl RR white.

At first I didn't like the new IRS front end, but with the right adjustments (arm positioning) it works flawlessly.

Mike- I have some Maverick battery trays that you might be interested in. They will fit your car and they will prolly do what the Silvas do. I will be down Saturday to race and you can have these trays if you want them.

Matt

I would go the the track or tracks I plan to run and see what the other guys are running and how they are set up. Don't do this when they are thrashing to get ready but most of the guys if they have time will get you in the ball park. run a few packs get use to the new track tehn start adjusting. remeber inside you want lighter shock oils I don't know hwat you have in the car but I would stay in the 25 weight area for center shock and 30ish on the sides but it is all personal feel. also check other car makers sites like www.customworks.com they tend to have set up help for their cars and I am sure some of it can be transfered to your 10L

Bigmike: Shoot me an email and I will get something out to ya..

ziggy117a@yahoo.com

Bigmike: you got mail.

Ziggy,
Did you get my email?

Dave

thanks for the help guys, my car is getting better, but still needs to be free in the corners. what do you think about all double pinks with a double purple rf?

Thanks for all the help

Hey Ziggy,
yep, the tips he have for setup is a good starting point. May need to make small adjustments for your driving style or track.

Kinda depends which brand your are using, JACO the pink and purple, with BSR the Double pinks are similar to JACO's pink compound.

BigMike: You got mail....

.....the ziggeth hath returned........

what are all equivalent bsr compounds to jaco
specifically jaco compounds
front greys, and blacks
rear greys and whites
what would they be in bsr tires.

Erock: not for long......

what are all equivalent bsr compounds to jaco
specifically jaco compounds
front greys, and blacks
rear greys and whites
what would they be in bsr tires.

They use the same foam, however I always felt BSR's compounds of equal color felt firmer.
For instance,
A White Jaco is like a BSR pearl on the track
A Grey Jaco is like a BSR White
Black jaco is like a Grey BSR

If you ran in jaco's:
White, LF
Black RF
White LR
Grey RR

I'd run
Pearl LF
Grey/Silver RF
Pearl LR
White RR

That would be real close to the same feel on the car.

Bigmike if your running BSR tires try what I just tried in practice today. In my L4 I'm running 13.5 brushless and tried this tire combo. IN the rear left white right black UP FRONT a grey left and a purple orange right front. with this setup on the previous chassis setup the car has stopped trying to traction roll. HECK I even got things good enough to take off the rear window mounted wing :woohoo: :woohoo:

OH I was only compounding the inner half of the right front then all of the rest of the tires.

I dont like the feel of the Pinks/Purples on carpet they seem to bog the car down late in a run or be inconsitent, their great on flat asphalt though!
For Stock/13.5/19T on carpet BSRs

LF-Pearl
RF-Grey/Silver
LR-Pearl
RR-White

If the traction comes up try a White on the LR and a Grey on the RR.
I hate the smell but Paragon really works well.

HHHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMM good on flat asphalt ?? I hope I can try that out in the future. However for me the silver/grey wore to fast on the front of the brushless car and a bit slower on the stock brushed. On the stock brushed I went to an older jaco blue that seems to have worked. I'm still going to try a couple more things though.

Here is what I ran in stock and 19turn
JACO LF-Gray, RF-Black, LR-White, RR-Gray
RC4Less LF-Cream, RF-Black, Gray, LR-White, RR-Cream
BSR LF-White (Green is same durometer but wears), RF- Gray, Gray/Silver 50/50, LR- Pearl or White, RR-White.

JACO compounds tend to vary slightly in grip to other brands, best I came up with was by asking the people who had used similar brands or the company directly. The list above is close in handling. That's the only problem I had with running pinks and purple - they may not have enough grip at start of race but develop a little too much grip at the end. The exotic foam tend to be a little more consistant than the natural rubber compounds. For those who can tune for that change it might not be an issue using pinks or double pinks and purple RF. I think the 3 pink and purple works best in true modified, where car is fast at the start and tends to slow near the end so change in grip isn't as noticeable.

Shoot I forgot to say .....for traction copmound I'm using TQ plus or jack the gripper. I mixed some custom works IT into the gripper. Both seem to work well but the BSR's seem to get tackier faster with the TQ. I have'nt used paragon in yrs.

I wanted to say thanks for everyone that helped. I finished 5th in the brl 17.5 class. I just bought a KSG Gen 2 from a guy online, that was never ran, so the oval bug really bit me.

Thanks again.

Looking for a used 10L4 and would like to know what changes to make to the car. I already planned on the Silva X4 factor conversion kit. What else do I need to complete the car. I've been out of oval for 12 years and these new cars have tons of adjustments the old 10L cars didn't have. Any advice would be appreciated. Running on an outdoor concrete oval track.

keep it simple. Then just graduate to a full blown car when you are ready. Use the 10l4 and add a silva battery tray and holder. Then add a center shock mount if you want. Invest you money in things that you can transfer and get use of for a long bit.

Ceramic bearings, you will probably want to go through the bearings of the old car anyways.

1/8th " front axles, since you are buying bearings anyways get the front axles, they are smoother than stock and the bearings should hold up a little better.

Then just go through every pivot ball on the car, make sure they are smooth but not sloppy. That is the key, really spend time polishing, sanding and working on your front end and tplate mounts. There are a lot of guys out there that have really expensive cars that don't have all the details attended to.

also ceramic diff balls, good rings and a good throughout spacer will smoothen out the rear end.

Rebuild your side shocks, costs like 4 bucks and you will know what you have.

then just work on your setup. I just bought a gen 2 ksg car and it is fast and nice, but it is a little advanced for my toolset right now.

Here is a deal on the silva conversion though.

http://midwestrchobby.com/rc_parts/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=39

they are going out of business, but it will get you what you need.

Thanks much Bigemike!

no problem