My friend has a big box of track in the attic of his garage. He said I could have it, and its so big the box is starting to come apart. I need to make room for it first. He told me I may need to scotch brite the metal strips. There may be cars in it for all he remembers. Old track doesnt go bad does it? I dont see how. VERY new at this so I've been hanging around and checking this place out for a while. Looks like fun! I'll need to see how many curves and straights are there and figure out my own design. Its a fall project so nothing I'm starting right away. I may be asking a lot of questions in the upcoming months.
Bob

What kind of track is it? Just wondering so we can give pertinent advice for your project. Where to find more track, different radius curves, etc...

Bob,
Unless the track has warped from excessive heat, or been exposed to so much moisture that the rails are rusted beyond recovery, the track should be fine. A lot of us have original Aurora track from the 60s and it is still useful.
Just sand the rails and contact points with very fine sandpaper, and clean them up with some Formula 409. Some guys use WD40; I haven't tried that yet.
Then put it together and get a car. I suggest a beater magnet car to start because the car is going to sputter and kick it's way around for the first couple laps on each lane. But it should smooth out by lap 3 or 4.
Magnet cars are better for breaking in a newly cleaned track than a T-Jet or AFX.
Then, you can learn about track tuning. I'm still learning that one myself.

Joe

Do NOT use scotch brite! You'll scuff the track surface no matter how careful you try to be. A fine stone first time around, then wrap it tightly in 600 paper and go around again. Final polish with a rail eraser.

I've seen too many pieces of good vintage track destroyed buy scotchbrite and careless sanding.

Agree with Bill on the stone deal and finer sandpaper. Unless it has rust doing the "creeping crud" thing and slopping over onto the plastic surface, all you're concerned with is the top of the rails.

Good stuff........

WD40 also seems to be one trick that definitely seems to have two schools of thought associated with it. I've read that many guys use it, but I've read posts from many others who insist that it is not a good idea.

Can anyone share the pros and/or cons? :confused:

Try a MR Clean Magic Eraser you can leave it dry it should clean the track surface and rails. I also have a small sharpening stone that can do two sets of rails at a time. I just set it across the rails with slight downward pressure and walk it around the track. I do at the end spray some WD40 on a clean rag and wipe the entire track down at the end.

Roger Corrie
Virginia Beach, VA

Think of using WD40 as you would go about waxing your floor. Too much and you can have crazy sliding action. Just spray a rag, wipe down a bit of the track, another spray.....wipe more of the track, repeat 'til you're done. WD40 is good for for the track's plastic and your tires.

A lot of good info here, thanks! Great tip on the scotchbrite. I would have ruined it for sure! A beater magnet car is new to me as well. Its in an air conditioned garage so I'm hoping its in good shape. I've never had one as an adult so a whole new world is waiting. Sounds addicting too. I'll post more when it gets here.
Thanks again!
Bob

I've never had one as an adult so a whole new world is waiting. Sounds addicting too.
Bob

I'm in exactly the same situation. Ever since I was 8 and saw a distant cousin's first Model Motoring set, I've been waiting to have the time, money and space to do something like this.

Until recently, my wife would just laugh about my father (trains, baseball cards, stamp collecting, collecting musical instruments, you name it) and say he was just a big kid. Nowadays she says, "You're just like your father!!" ;)

Until recently, my wife would just laugh about my father (trains, baseball cards, stamp collecting, collecting musical instruments, you name it) and say he was just a big kid. Nowadays she says, "You're just like your father!!" ;)

Hey Rudy,

Sounds like you turned out fine!

Patrick

Hey Rudy,

Sounds like you turned out fine!

Patrick

Thanks, Patrick. The old man is a great guy. My wife admires him and I definitely take it as a compliment.

Speaking of the wife, she's been spending time with a controller in her hand lately too!! LOL.

On that WD 40 thing.... it would be interesting to know the full story. Kind of like "plastic compatible" oil, ie. Labelle, vs oils that will soak into and eventually deteriorate plastic over time. Sometimes a little softening and revitalizing is a good thing, and I wouldn't think WD 40 would penetrate too much or hang around too long anyway (it doesn't anywhere else), but it is a petroleum distillate/solvent. I have used it, but have gotten just as good results from household cleaner just like Joe above. The stone or sanding block run on top of the rails is a must - got some old track that is all scuffed up where someone used a scotchbrite pad or something similar.

Hey Rudy, I have family in Wilmington, visited last in July. Of course I hunt slots when I'm there. Checked out Mitchell's Hobby(a couple of blocks from where I lived as a little kid) this trip, expecting a semi-stocked parts rack. Almost no ho slot stuff left! You buy 'em out, lol?

Hey Rudy, I have family in Wilmington, visited last in July. Of course I hunt slots when I'm there. Checked out Mitchell's Hobby(a couple of blocks from where I lived as a little kid) this trip, expecting a semi-stocked parts rack. Almost no ho slot stuff left! You buy 'em out, lol?

LOL. No, as a matter of fact, when I had determined that I wanted to get started with slot car racing a few months ago, Mitchell's was the first place I visited. I was surpised to find that they only carry a small selection of Scalextric 1/32 and absolutely nothing at all in HO scale. It looks like their forte is really model railroading and modeling in general. I actually considered the possibility of 1/32 for a while, but for several reasons settled on HO scale instead. :dude:

WD40 is a lubricant. Why would you want to put this on your slot car track? :confused:

WD40 = Water Displacement 40.So i've been told! :confused:

WD40 = Water Displacement 40.So i've been told! :confused:

You have the correct information.

Tom

I learned this a long time ago.
If it doesnt move and should... WD40.
If it does move and shouldnt... duct tape.
I like duct tape... :lol:

WD40 = Water Displacement 40.So i've been told! :confused:I've heard that too. Do you get water on your track or something?

My concern is that it is more of an oil than anything, and one wouldn't want oily substances on the track surface unless you want to do drifting. :)

I've heard that too. Do you get water on your track or something?

My concern is that it is more of an oil than anything, and one wouldn't want oily substances on the track surface unless you want to do drifting. :)

The WD-40 seals the bare metal of the rails from the elements. Take a shiny piece of metal and let it sit and rust will form whether its around water or not. Moisture in the air begins to rust the rails without the WD-40.

Then how do you remove the WD40 residue from your plastic track surface, or isn't this a concern? :confused: It just seems you would want traction on the surface and regular applications of WD40 would make the plastic slippery in a short time.

Hey by all means if it works for you than that's all that counts, but in the 17 years I've run my Tyco track I have never seen rust or corrosion form on my rails.

I hadn't ran my track in a while and I noticed some small areas of rust forming. Thats when i first used WD-40 cause i didn't want it to happen again. I try to keep the WD-40 off the plastic I just apply it to the rails only.

Hi Guys, I would use the WD-40. No real oil in it. Ever see the commerical a few years back with the guy cleaning the NASA rocket(WD-40 is a great cleaner also will remove tar from the side of your real car with no damage to the paint). It is water displacement. I would think that 409 would seep down into the rail-track area and make rust where you can't get at it.(what is in 409 anyway..? I use WD-40 on my HO track. Spray some on a rag wipe track then go back over and wipe off with clean rag. You will see the crud on the clean rag! You should wait about ten minutes before you run any cars. First couple of laps may be a little slippery then mega grip. Use WD-40 to clean your tires also. Works on all types silicone or sponge. Spray on rag wipe tire. wait one minute then wipe dry. Instant grip, cleans tire and won't dry it out. Hope this helps someone if only the mentally unbalanced one :)

Then how do you remove the WD40 residue from your plastic track surface, or isn't this a concern? :confused: It just seems you would want traction on the surface and regular applications of WD40 would make the plastic slippery in a short time.

Hey by all means if it works for you than that's all that counts, but in the 17 years I've run my Tyco track I have never seen rust or corrosion form on my rails.

Just try it i think you'll be pleasantly surprised.I clean my rails first with a pink pearl(eraser).Then spray a little wd-40 on a cotton rag and wipe it down.Wipe all excess up and let it sit for 24hrs.It works very well-my track is set up in my basement going on a year and no sign of rust or corosion.Of course i dont get any water in my basement and i run a dehumidifer.But all basements are a little damp! :)

I find it surprising but I'll have to try it. Like they say- 'don't knock it until you try it'. ;)

Back in '90 or '91 when we were on our own for tuning we had an oil we would use on silicone tires. It would swell them a bit and give them better traction. I can't remember what it was.

I think the oil you were using was Oil of Wintergreen. I used to use it and mix it with some thing else? to make what used to be called Tigers Milk. Rub on tire wait a minute then wipe off. If I can remember the other part and how much to mix I will post it here.

Just try it i think you'll be pleasantly surprised.I clean my rails first with a pink pearl(eraser).Then spray a little wd-40 on a cotton rag and wipe it down.Wipe all excess up and let it sit for 24hrs.It works very well-my track is set up in my basement going on a year and no sign of rust or corosion.Of course i dont get any water in my basement and i run a dehumidifer.But all basements are a little damp! :)

I have some 35 year old Aurora lock and joiner track in my basement that has only had the wipe on, wipe off, WD-40 teatment. No rust and still works and looks new. I also have a dehumidifer!

Here is the Tiger Milk formula http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Chemistry.html

I use good ole rubbing alcohol. It's always been good for cleaning contact areas in electronics, I just put some in a bottle with a spray nozzle, spray some on then wipe off with a sponge.

I think the oil you were using was Oil of Wintergreen.

:p I still have a bottle of that in my box. It's now 23 years old. :freak: