I think what would be helpful for those of us here who are just getting started in the hobby would be some "Tuning Basics for Beginners 101". Not necessarily tips for just making your cars go faster, but some more of the basics on how to properly maintenance and care for your cars. Even if they're related to just the RTR cars that a beginner would most likely have to start with in their collection, like the Super G+, LL-T, and 440x2 chassis'.

I know there are already some threads started for these specific chassis, but topics that could be more appealing to complete dunces such as myself would be:

* Proper methods to disassemble/reassemble chassis
* How to remove/replace pickup shoes, motor brushes, axles, etc.
* The tools and methods available or recommended to perform this work.
* How much wear to expect and at what point should parts be replaced?
* Etc.

To be honest, for the few short weeks I've had them I've been looking at the chassis on the cars I've acquired and I'm hessitant to even try removing parts for fear of doing more damage than good to my investments. I'm thinking that just a little more understanding up front will pay off a lot more later.

Thanks in advance for any advice offered.

Ditto the above.

Pictures with instructions of someone dis-assembling a car (or other common tasks) would be most helpful.

I know the basic stuff here isn't rocket-science, but I am reluctant to ruin any of these few, new, little marvels learning what not to do.

Which reminds me - I need to research the endbell tweaks on the SG+ cars. Seemed like something so simple (rotate that little thing) which I did, and now I have a car that stutter/sputters around the track.

Rotate it back.

Rotate it back.

Great idea! Thanks!
:)

Shoot me an e-mail explaining exactly what you are trying to do and I'll try and help. And once I understand the problem, I will try and post the resolution here also.
e-mail to boydgg(at)yahoo(dot)com

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

*snip*
To be honest, for the few short weeks I've had them I've been looking at the chassis on the cars I've acquired and I'm hessitant to even try removing parts for fear of doing more damage than good to my investments. I'm thinking that just a little more understanding up front will pay off a lot more later.

Thanks in advance for any advice offered.

I remember when the G+ first came out. I saved up my hard earned money and bought one from Toy Barn. Took it home ran it for awhile and then was curious enough to take it apart to see what made it tick. To make a long story short I shot a motor brush and a spring scross the room and never did find it..... :rolleyes:
It was a long time before I bought another G+... :lol:

Scott

I remember when the G+ first came out. I saved up my hard earned money and bought one from Toy Barn. Took it home ran it for awhile and then was curious enough to take it apart to see what made it tick. To make a long story short I shot a motor brush and a spring scross the room and never did find it..... :rolleyes:
It was a long time before I bought another G+... :lol:

Scott

LOL. Believe me, Scott, I know that I am very capable of doing something just like that. That's what worries me!!

And Scaf, I could not have found better words myself to describe my cars. They may be off the shelf RTRs, but I value them immensely. Even the wife has been racing them with me and some are definitely "hers" (LL-T #19 Dodge and 38 M&M Ford....she's a huge Elliot Sadler fan) Anyway, it's provided us with some fun moments so far. PS Thanks for the PM with the link to your car review!!

Shoot me an e-mail explaining exactly what you are trying to do and I'll try and help. And once I understand the problem, I will try and post the resolution here also.
e-mail to boydgg(at)yahoo(dot)com

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

Thanks, LeeRoy.

Well, for starters, this past weekend I picked up a used # 3 Goodwrench Tyco 440x2 dirt cheap at the Aberdeen swap meet. The body is in great shape. However, when I say used, I mean well used as far as the chassis is concerned. It'll run, but it's not nearly up to snuff with anything else I own. (LL-T & SG+....this is my first 440x2)

At a minimum, the tires appear shot and need to be replaced. They wobble when rotated by finger, so it may need a new axle also. No question it needs new shoes. And this is probably just the beginning based on my "untrained" eye's examination.

I toyed with the idea of just buying a new unused chassis, but also realize that this car could serve as the gineau pig for my first attempted overhaul. And then the idea for this thread came, because I realized I really didn't know how to approach starting this little project on a "step-by-step" basis. :confused:

LMAO! If your not shooting parts across the room you're not doing it right.

All ya need is a cat!

Gus my crew chief is always right on top of any flying micro widgets. With his superior vision and hearing he should be the one rebuilding 'lil exploding cars. He walks right over to some invisible 'lil dammit that got away from me and gives it a sniff, then looks up at me as if to say, "Here it is stoopid!" Even if he doesnt pounce on it, I take a visual cue from his gaze to establish trajectory or which end of the slotcave a part has ricochetted to.

We're a team! His presence more than makes up for the ocassional bit of cat fuzz wrapped around an axle. Glad he doesnt have an opposable thumb or he'd be in charge and I'd be shaggin' parts.

Bill, you lucked out with that cat. All my useless cat does is occasionally walk over and swat a car off the track. Dave.

Best tip I can think of for a new dismantle.. a White shoe box.. will catch 99% of all flying objects. I did my cars that way for years when I had the monster track in a 50 year old basement 'cuz I sure didn't want to see what else was in the corners..lol...


Dave

Having started in this hobby in the late 60s, I grew up with T-Jets and then AFX. Taking these cars apart is fairly simple with the only real lose-able part being the pickup springs (and brush springs for the Magna-Traction).
In the late 70s, early 80s, I took the hiatus many of us did until the late 90s when I came back. Since then I have acquired many different types of chassis.
The Tyco HP-7 and Marchon chassis are the only inline chassis which I have no reservations about dismantling and reassembling. All other inline chassis (except perhaps the Tyco HP-2 - yuck!) I want nothing to do with other than changing the pickup shoes. Only once have I tried to insert a new armature into a Tyco 400-X2 and that exercise had me cursing the ancestory of the designer. I eventually got the armature shaft between the brush barrels, but it wasn't fun and not something I ever want to do again.
Some guys have probably got the assembly of inline chassis down to a science. I ain't one of them. If there are tricks to working with an inline chassis, I would love to hear/see them. For chassis repair, I stick to pancake cars, Tyco HP-7 and Marchon.

Joe

Some guys have probably got the assembly of inline chassis down to a science. I ain't one of them. If there are tricks to working with an inline chassis, I would love to hear/see them. For chassis repair, I stick to pancake cars, Tyco HP-7 and Marchon.

Joe LOL "Back in the day" I remember seeing a tech tip that show how to trim a pickup shoe to use as a brush holder for the in-line chassis. I remember having to bend it in a U shape, then trim the ends to just fit the diameter of the brushes. I remember having pretty good success with this rig.

HTH, Jeff

LMAO! If your not shooting parts across the room you're not doing it right.

All ya need is a cat!

Gus my crew chief is always right on top of any flying micro widgets. With his superior vision and hearing he should be the one rebuilding 'lil exploding cars. He walks right over to some invisible 'lil dammit that got away from me and gives it a sniff, then looks up at me as if to say, "Here it is stoopid!" Even if he doesnt pounce on it, I take a visual cue from his gaze to establish trajectory or which end of the slotcave a part has ricochetted to.

We're a team! His presence more than makes up for the ocassional bit of cat fuzz wrapped around an axle. Glad he doesnt have an opposable thumb or he'd be in charge and I'd be shaggin' parts.

ROFL. Sounds like my two (Tigger and Cosmo) have their work cut out for them once I get started.

Fortunately, Tigger is especially good at establishing the whereabouts of things. One day, Cosmo was nowhere to be found. After several hours, my wife got to the point of surrender and just had to ask Tigger, "Where's Cosi?". While she's standing there TALKING to the cat (LOL) and asking where the other chucklehead is, Tigger responds by looking up at the ceiling every time she asks.

We later learned that Cosmo found a way to get over a rafter in a storage closet and was spending time in the ceiling.....right above where my wife was standing.

Best tip I can think of for a new dismantle.. a White shoe box.. will catch 99% of all flying objects. I did my cars that way for years when I had the monster track in a 50 year old basement 'cuz I sure didn't want to see what else was in the corners..lol...
Dave

Like this idea.

Are there any particular tools I should have handy to remove pickup shoes, axles, etc.? Any in particular that work best for certain pieces?

Like this idea.

Are there any particular tools I should have handy to remove pickup shoes, axles, etc.? Any in particular that work best for certain pieces?


On a G not really, I use a small jewlers screw driver to gently pry parts out of the way as my hands are too big for delicate work. just be slow and steady around the arm and the shoe holder, the SHoe holder after a few times can get a bit out of shape and sqaure is fast. gently gently remove these, the arm well as a few have pointed out.. Motor brushes are spring loaded.. it is possible to reove the arm without having springs and such going flying.. as you remove the arm remove from the rear and tilt as far as possible without putting strain on the front bushing. as the arm rises it will start to move away from the brush holders these do have a neat property of being able to slide in towards the center.. slowly pry up the arm while keeping the holders moving in, and with any luck the two brushes should meet in the middle and stop the exodus and th eneed to have the tracking cats go forth to find the springs. While you have the car apart use a magnifying glass and look for small burrs on the nylon there is always a few, file them off drill 4 small bore holes down the side of each chassis sidewall just below the mount. make sure you deburr it or your just moving weight. Do a triangle pattern on the rear bulkhead one on top and two below deburr once again. Then if your really feeling not enough micrograms are missing from the car you can shave a very small sliver all the way around the top of the chassis, you can slso remove the excess AFX logo on the bottom. You can try different hole patterns to lighten the frame just be careful too much and you get a fragile car that will spill its guts all over at high torque corners.. pretty cool to watch though..Always if you allow it to get too flexiable it will corner like a wallowing pig. we're not talking a second a lap here but maybe a couple of tenths if you make sure everything is square and the motor brushes have similar tension on them. Oil pop on you Red Ferrari Daytona and go racing hard..I think SP has the most radical Gplus chassis lightning ever done. I think its has too much removed at the rear bulkhead and I can see flex problems when the rear ened get warmish causing some big problems. But its pretty cool looking for sure and about 40% lighter..


ope I didn't bore you to tears with that explanation but I do hope it helps..

Only once have I tried to insert a new armature into a Tyco 400-X2 and that exercise had me cursing the ancestory of the designer. I eventually got the armature shaft between the brush barrels, but it wasn't fun and not something I ever want to do again.

Joe

Joe --

When you pull the motor out of the 440X2 chassis, take a needle nose pliers and S L O W L Y twist the brush barrel while pulling it out of the bulkhead. If you just yank it out, the brush spring will fire your brush into the abyss. Do both barrels and then you can swap the arm out with ease.

Usually if you go that far, you might as well replace the brushes and give the springs a slight stretch.

I disassemble and re-assemble chassis in a shallow, white pharmacist tray. Helps cut down on lost parts big time because everything is plainly visible and nothing can roll away.

'doba

Joe --

When you pull the motor out of the 440X2 chassis, take a needle nose pliers and S L O W L Y twist the brush barrel while pulling it out of the bulkhead. If you just yank it out, the brush spring will fire your brush into the abyss. Do both barrels and then you can swap the arm out with ease.

Usually if you go that far, you might as well replace the brushes and give the springs a slight stretch.

I disassemble and re-assemble chassis in a shallow, white pharmacist tray. Helps cut down on lost parts big time because everything is plainly visible and nothing can roll away.

'doba

It wasn't the dismantling that gave me a problem, it was the reassembly. I had been given the "U Clip" tip and tried using it to keep the brushes in the barrel while inserting the new armature. I just couldn't get both brushes into the barrels, get the U clip to stay in AND get the armature shaft between the barrels.
But, you seem to be saying that you remove the brush barrels from the chassis? In other words, you remove the entire brush barrel, remove the arm, replace the arm, and then reinsert the barrels? How many times can you do that before the part of the chassis which holds the brush tubes starts to weaken?

Joe

For taking off pickup shoes, a small screwdriver does the trick. Now for axles, get yourself a wheel puller and a wheel press (You definitely want it going back on straight). JW's Speed Parts have excellent presses and pullers......Even a special puller for Afx/XT's thinner axles.

But, you seem to be saying that you remove the brush barrels from the chassis? In other words, you remove the entire brush barrel, remove the arm, replace the arm, and then reinsert the barrels? How many times can you do that before the part of the chassis which holds the brush tubes starts to weaken?

Joe

Yes -- remove the motor, remove both brush barrels, replace the old armature, then re-insert the brush barrels and re-install the motor. Takes 5 minutes and I am telling you it is easy. Forget trying to use some u-clip or whatever.

The brush barrels are press-fit into the bulkhead and hold quite tight, hence the need for needle nose pliers. I don't think the bulkhead will ever really weaken from removing the brush barrels and re-inserting them.

'doba

Yes -- remove the motor, remove both brush barrels, replace the old armature, then re-insert the brush barrels and re-install the motor. Takes 5 minutes and I am telling you it is easy. Forget trying to use some u-clip or whatever.

The brush barrels are press-fit into the bulkhead and hold quite tight, hence the need for needle nose pliers. I don't think the bulkhead will ever really weaken from removing the brush barrels and re-inserting them.

'doba

Doba,
You mention both armature and motor for the reassembly. Aren't they the same in this case? To reassemble, you would insert the new armature and then both brush barrels. Correct?
And hopefully keep the brushes in the tubes.

Joe

Doba,
You mention both armature and motor for the reassembly. Aren't they the same in this case? To reassemble, you would insert the new armature and then both brush barrels. Correct?
And hopefully keep the brushes in the tubes.

Joe

I mention 'motor' as the whole assembled unit of front & rear bulkheads, magnets and brushes. The 'motor' unit then gets re-inserted into the chassis.

Step by step this would be the process:
1 -- Remove rear axle and pick-up shoes from chassis
2 -- Place left thumb on top of motor magnets, armature and bulkheads and push down while speading the right side of the chassis sides apart with your right hand (reverse hands if you are a southpaw). Pay special attention that the notches on the bulkheads clear the chassis sides. The motor will slide out the bottom of the chassis. Hopefully the traction magnets stay inside the chassis -- if they fall out you can re-insert them prior to re-installing the motor.
3 -- Once the 'motor' is out of the car, slide the pick-up shoe springs off the brush tubes and then use a needle nose pliers to slowly slide the brush barrels out of the front bulkhead. Stress slowly -- if you go too quick the brush will go flying. If you go slow it will stay in the brush barrel or sit loose in the bulkhead where you can shake it out.
4 -- Use your fiingers to spin the pinion gear off the rear of the armature.
5 -- Slide the front and rear bulkheads off the armature.
6 -- The only thing left at this stage is your armature with the magnets stuck to it. Remove the magnets and replace the armature.
7 -- Place the magnets back on the armature and reinstall the front and rear bulkheads, taking special care to make sure the bulkheads are right side up. Most rear bulkheads have a kick-out at the back that holds the traction magnets in place. The front bulkhead has two nubs at the top which hold the pick-up shoe springs in place. Once you have your bulkheads orientated, seat the motor magnets in the bulkheads and off of the armature.
8 -- Slide the pinion gear back onto the rear of the armature.
9 -- Re-install your brush barrels at this point. Once the barrels are pressed back into the front bulkhead, put the pick-up shoes springs back on the barrels, short side up, with the springs inside of the nubs on the bulkhead, i.e. as close to the armature as they can get.
10 -- Here's the trickiest part -- re-installing the 'motor.' Square everything up with your motor unit so it is a tight little package -- just like it would be in the chassis -- and pick it up with your right hand. With your left hand (or vice versa if you are a southpaw of course) pick up the chassis with the bottom facing you. You want to insert one side of the motor part ways into the chassis, and then spread the chassis with your fingers on your right hand. Once both sides of the front and rear bulkheads have cleared the bottom of the chassis, the motor will slide in place. If it is not exactly smooth going, don't worry -- you will probably have to wiggle the motor a bit while giving the chassis sides a slight pull to help seat the bulkheads.
11 -- Once the motor is in the chassis you need to verify a couple of things, 1 that the bulkheads are properly seated in the chassis, 2 that the traction and motor magnets are properly seated, and 3 that the bulkheads are installed right side up. Use your finger to spin the arm and it should turn freely.
12 -- Re-install the pick-up shoes and re-install the rear axle and you are ready to roll. :)

Hope this helps -- it's a lot to type but it is actually very, very easy. I could do 440X2s all day they are so easy to disassemble.

'doba

Doba,
Thanks for taking the time to type all that out. I will certainly keep these instructions handy and give it a try one day when I have a lot of patience to spare.

Joe

Hi folks,

I purchased a lifelike race set at a yardsale and it came with one car. The car arcs like crazy, not to mention stuttering. It really burns up the pickups.

I'm pretty sure its the pickup shoes, as when I hold the car to the rails, it runs very smooth. I'm wondering how to go about adjusting this When I removed the shoes, I could not see any springs. It appears that the only contact between shoes and car is two copper tabs.... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Are the track rails clean and shiny? Make sure of that before tuning the car. Fine grit sandpaper or the edge of a dime both work to shine the rails. Then use a little WD40 on a rag to clean and polish them.

LifeLike cars use "tab" springs instead of helical springs so all's well there.

Funny thing..I have a 25+ year old Tyco car that runs fine on either lane of the track..smooth as a baby's butt...

I'll go ahead and clean the track and see what happens...thanks!

If the Tyco is working, then the track should be fine. "Sputtering" suggests that the pickups aren't making consistent contact. That could be from the pickups getting bent, the front wheels being out of round, the guide pin being too long, or there is trash in the slot bumping guide pin out of slot. The Tyco may not have as long of guide pin, so it doesn't get bumped. Some theories to investigate anyway...

I'm gonna split a hair here. But a question first. Is it stuttering or sputtering?

"Sputtering" is consistent with poor contact related to crud, oxidation, mis-alignment, or under/unbalenced springing. More of an "on off" intermittent contact. The condition characterized by sluggish performance.

In most cases "stuttering" or telegraphing is caused by over sprung shoes, providing the wheels and tires are concentric. Usually occurring under throttle snap from the git go but will smooth out as you pick up speed. The condition is similar to a 1:1 car with bad shocks. Boing Boing Boing in rapid succession. Often popping the guide out of the slot.

Arcing is consistent with both conditions. Do the shoes have a groove cut into them? Does the spring tension feel even side to side when you poke the shoes with your finger? Is that tension the same as your other cars that run nicely? Are you welding all the way around the track?

Lever type pickup springs, like the comm springs in a T-jet, can fatigue. Having lost their temper they will not hold adjustment. Too soft!

Now from way out in left field. Although this car free wheels good when tested, I have seen marginal motors pipe up good on test but perform as you described under load. If you've double checked "TK's" list of the obvious and it doesnt come around. If all else fails. Try swapping the motor out for giggles.

Let us know how you make out. :thumbsup:

Joe,

The 'Doba 12-step Tyco reassembly program really works, but I would add the following additional details:

7a) The stock polarity on the motor magnets for Tycos is to have the white magnet on the drivers side when viewing the chassis from above. However, switching the magnets around the other way is not a problem, you just have to install the rear axle the opposite way. I prefer to reverse the Tyco motor magnets because that is the way Wizzard and G cars are setup. It's necessary if you want to run a high timed Patriot arm in your Tyco. I also find myself putting rear ends in wrong in my Tycos if they aren't setup the same as my Storms/P3s and G cars.

10a) I find it much easier to reassemble Tycos without the traction magnets in place, especially with Phase II tractions which want to adhere to any magnetic surface within 6 inches of them. Trying to keep everything including the magnets perfectly aligned is hard enough and near impossible with the Phase IIs. Instead, install the tractions after the motor box is in place, one at a time and before you put the rear axle in place. The chassis is more than flexible enough. The tractions have a step on them that rests on an edge on the chassis and rear bulkhead. Slide one side of the magnet under the edge of the chassis and then rotate the magnet into its socket while flexing the same side of the chassis out away from the motor box. It only fits in one way. This works on wide and narrow chassis. I stabilize the side that is not being flexed outward with one hand and flex the chassis and pop the magnet in or out with the other. It may help to use a small screwdriver to help pop the magnet out. It's far easier to do than to describe. You should be totally comfortable removing and replacing the traction magnets one at a time without removing or dislodging the motor box. Just remember to remove the rear axle first and practice. Having two fewer pieces in the reassembly juggling act makes a big difference, at least it does for me.

12b) The stock Tyco 440X2 tractions do not have a left-right orientation. You can put either traction magnet in either hole. With Phase IIs and non-stock (or specially zapped X2) tractions (and all Wizzard, SG+, G3, T1, etc., cars) it does matter which traction magnet goes on which side. One orientation will give you a "high downforce" setup and the other a "low downforce" setup. Here's how you determine which is which: for a high downforce setup the side of the traction magnet that faces the track rail should be more attracted to the bottom of the motor magnet on the opposite side of the chassis. In other words, if you are looking at your chassis with its belly exposed and the face of the traction magnet is more attracted to the motor magnet on the left, then install that traction magnet on the right side of the chassis. That setup will give you maximum downforce, if that's what you want. When running on a track with high rails and/or highly magnetic rails, like a MaxTrack or Life-Like, running in a low downforce setup can be very advantageous because you can lower the rear end without bogging and overheating. Likewise, on a low downforce track like Tomy you usually want maximum downforce. Knowing that you can change the orientation gives you another tool to add to your bag of tricks.

I hope this is helpful.

Glad to be back. :)

Glad to be back. :)

Hey! Glad to see you back!:woohoo:
I always enjoy your posts.

'doba

Joe,

The 'Doba 12-step Tyco reassembly program really works, but I would add the following additional details...

I hope this is helpful.

Glad to be back. :)

Anytime someone takes the time to lay out hints and tips, it is helpful and appreciated.
Thanks, and welcome back.

Joe

Welcome back AFXToo. I missed your informative posts. Dave.

Likewise here.......Thanks.

Hey guys,
Got to love this new forum and a big thanks to Hank for starting it!! :thumbsup: (I'm alittle behind the times) :( Anyway, I came across this "Common used terms for Slot Cars" awhile back and kept it. Since this is a new forum and we have veteran's and newbies here, I thought it would be a good list to post, especially for the newbies, when the vets use BIG WORDS we may not understand!! :confused: You can print it and keep it right next to your...whatever :p Hope this helps!!
Tom

A airgap difference between the armature dia. and the i.d of the magnets; total or per side

airgap tool tool for sizing/checking airgap and/or installing/reinstalling bearings and bushings

align (brush hoods) to center the brush hoods in a symmetrical, 90° relationship with the centerline of the armature

altered generic term applied to various coupe and roadster configurations run in specific "altered" classes

analyzer common name for DC power supply used to break in and test motors

arc visible electrical discharge; most commonly seen from motor brushes or car-to-track braid contact

armature the 3-poled device which carries the current-carrying windings and commutator around a central shaft

armature slug steel or aluminum cylinder mounted on shaft to

axle (rear) the shaft that carries the driven gear and rear wheel/tire assemblies

axle, hollow hollow steel or stainless steel rear axle

B balance achieving or possessing a state of rotational equilibrium; "in balance"
balance (verb) to recondition the rotating mass of an armature via material removal

ballast additional weight added to bring a car up to a specified competition
minimum

batteries commonly, the automotive, truck, or marine batteries that supply the track DC voltage

bearing, axle commonly, the low-friction ball bearings permitted for the rear axle in some classes

bearing, motor commonly, the low-friction ball bearings permitted in a motor for the armature in some classes

bracket race grouping where cars compete using individual dial-ins via a handicap or delayed start

brackets (race) commonly, refers to the entire grouping and competition of a bracket race

braid, guide the copper braid pieces mounted in the guide which ride on the track braid and conduct current to the car

braid, track the two strips of braid, commonly copper, on either side of the slot that convey power to the car

break to incur a mechanical failure that prevents a car from starting or completing a run

break rule provision in most rules to permit a 60-second pause for emergency car repair before starting a race

break-out to run under (quicker than) a bracket or index dial-in

brush carbon/copper/graphite

brush hood endbell hardware component the brush rides in

brush tool, aligning device for symmetrically aligning brush hoods to 0 degree offset from arm shaft center

brush tool, radiusing device for cutting brush face radius to match commutator diameter

bushing, axle oilite or bronze "button" or sleeve the axle turns in; serves as the "bearing" surface

bushing, motor oilite or bronze "button" or sleeve the armature turns in; serves as the "bearing" surface

C c-can generically, name given to motors with specific, common can size; most commonly, groups 10 - 20

can stamped and formed steel housing that carries the magnets and to which the endbell is mounted

can end the end of the motor where the gear is mounted and where the motor screws are inserted

can tool tool for checking the size and reconditioning the shape of the motor can

ceramic (magnets) generic term applied to all non-cobalt magnets; refers to nature of ("ferrite") metal oxide composition

charger (battery) commonly, an automotive-type battery charger used to maintain, recharge, or boost track batteries

chassis core structure or platform of the car, to which all other components are added or mounted

chassis, steel chassis produced by chem etching, laser or EDM cutting spring steel sheet

chassis, wire chassis utilizing piano wire for major structural components

class (a) generically, any individual competition grouping within a race or competition

class (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, reference to heads-up or specification-restricted race grouping

click box commonly, a reference to the controller relay system that bypasses controller resistors and wiring

clip, lead wire bent metal form interposed between car braid and guide to form an accessible lead wire soldering point

clips, magnet wire or stamped metal retainers which mechanically maintain magnet position in a can

cobalt (motor) generic term used to describe all motors utilizing "cobalt" magnets ]
cobalt (magnets) commonly, generic reference to samarium-cobalt material used in high-performance motors

com commonly, shorter version of "commutator"

com lathe (machine) device for precision resurfacing and retruing copper contact surfaces of a commutator

commutator polarity-switching, 3-segmented, insulated copper device at one end of the armature; also: "com"

controller manually-actuated variable-resistor device used to regulate track power supplied to car

D DBC popular manufacturer of optical-sensor-based track timing system
diaplane projecting front horizontal lip on a body; utilized for stability and airflow control

deslot to come out of the slot during a run

dial to select a specific e.t., most commonly during a bracket race

dial-in the specific e.t. selected, most commonly during a bracket race

donut the rubber portion of (most commonly) the rear tires

doorslammer generic term applied to coupes/sedans with "doors"

dragster commonly, term used to describe dragsters or dragster-type cars ]

E endbell nylon, phenolic, or anodized aluminum fixture containing bushing and carrying brushes and hardware

endbell end that end of the can/strap motor that retains the endbell

endgap total amount of arm shaft freeplay between the inner dimensions of
bushings and spacer ends of arm

endplay total amount of arm shaft freeplay between the inner dimensions of bushings and spacer ends of arm

epoxy single or multi-component adhesive used to bond wires to armature stacks, magnets to cans/straps

epoxy (verb) commonly, the act of gluing magnets into cans or straps using various high-strength adhesives

F flex commonly, the beam-deflection or bending nature of a specific chassis

float commonly, the amount of free play a mounted body is permitted by its
attachment method

flux commonly, the liquid or paste metal prep solution used to facilitate complete and proper soldering

flux (verb) the act of applying a flux in preparation for soldering

flux, magnet a quantity expressing the strength of a magnetic field in a given area

funny car generic term applied to highly-modified fuel coupes or replicas of current full-size cars

G gauss, magnet (a) the scientific unit of measurement of magnetic induction field

gauss, magnet (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, term used to refer to generic or perceived magnetic field "strength"

gauss (verb) also commonly, term used to refer to the act of measuring magnetic field strength

gauss meter electronic or electro-mechanical device used to measure internal or external magnetic field strength

gear, pinion the smaller gear soldered or pressed on the armature shaft at the can end of the motor

gear, spur the larger driven gear that set-screws to the axle

glue most commonly, the friction-coefficient improving semi-fluid applied to track/ties to enhance traction

glue commonly, any adhesive used to secure one item or component to another

glue (verb a) to prepare car and/or track via application of traction-enhancing "glue" (see above)

glue (verb http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif to utilize an adhesive to retain an item or component

group conventionally, the "category" of a motor, e.g., "Group 12" or "Group 27"

guide the "shoe" that rides on the track braid and in the track slot; has threaded post for attachment

guide nut nut that retains the guide to the chassis

guide tongue chassis projection to and through which the guide is mounted

H handling generic term for how the car "behaves" and the way in which it makes its runs

hardshell common nickname for model-kit based cars and classes

hardware as a group, the metal or other components on the endbell which hold the springs, brushes, etc.

heads-up race where both competitors leave the line at the same time; also refers to non-index/bracket classes

hone generically, a device for precision-grinding a surface, usually round or
radiused

hone, magnet diamond-coated rotating device (see above) which precision grinds magnet i.d. bore

hone (verb) to utilize a hone; most commonly refers to the act of magnet honing

hook up (a) commonly, to attach a controller to track lane control terminals

hook up (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif also commonly, term used to describe presence (or absence) of traction

hub the axle attachment point of a gear or wheel, through which the setscrew is tightened to the axle

hubs commonly, term used to refer to rear wheel/tire assembly

I index the e.t. minimum against which a Class is run; generically, used to refer to cars in those Classes

L lamination(s) the multiple 3-pole stampings which are assembled together to make the core or stacks of an armature

launch commonly, the initial or starting portion of a drag strip run

launch (verb) commonly, to perform only the starting segment of the run to observe performance

lead material most commonly used for ballast

lead wire the wire that conveys power from the guide to the motor

lexan polycarbonate material most commonly used for quality slot car bodies; generally .007"-.020" thick

lift the act of purposely slowing a car to avoid going faster than a set index or bracket dial-in

light singularly, one of the timing system indicator bulbs

light (verb a) to trigger or illuminate one or more starting sensor indicator lights

light (verb http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif to have a significantly better reaction time than an opponent, achieving a starting line advantage

lights commonly, a reference to the complete starting light sequencing process

M magnet(s) commonly, the ceramic or cobalt magnets used for field generation in a motor

mask adhesive material applied inside a clear body to prevent paint from covering an area, e.g., windows

mask (verb) commonly, the act of using masks in preparation for body painting

match (magnets) sorting and selecting, via gauss meter, etc., magnets possessing similar or identical field readings

mount, body the chassis provisions or projections to which the body is actually attached

mount (verb) commonly, to attach the body to the chassis

O o-ring generic industrial rubber or elastomeric rings used as front and wheelie-bar tires

open generic reference to open Class or Group 7 motor

P pan flat chassis projection/area; frequently used to carry ballast

pass common name for a drag strip run

pin common straight pins, slightly bent, used to mount bodies

pin (verb) to attach the body to the body mounts of the chassis via pins

pole, magnet the positive/negative or north/south orientations of the field of a magnet

power supply a variable DC voltage supply capable of running motors for break-in and testing

power supply, track (a) generically, term used to refer to the rating and amperage capacity of track power batteries

power supply, track (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif specifically

pre-stage to illuminate the first of the two normal starting line staging lights

push button commonly, an on/off push button switch sometimes used in lieu of a controller to operate cars

Q quads two-segment magnets

R rail commonly, term used to describe dragsters or dragster-type cars

rail(s), chassis the chassis components connecting the motor portion to the guide-mounting segment

ratio, gear numerical ratio achieved by dividing the number of teeth on the spur gear by the number of the pinion

reaction time time between the illuminating of the last countdown bulb and triggering of track power by the controller

red light common indicator that shows a competitor has reacted faster than the specified start time interval

red light (verb) to react quicker than the specified time interval after the last countdown light has been illuminated

relay, controller device which, when activated at "full" position, bypasses all resistors and wiring in a controller

retainer generically, any device used to locate or position a component, e.g., magnet, wheel, etc.

retainer (body) small, flat-faced collars used at tubing ends to distribute loads and prevent body break-through

ride height dimension between body and/or chassis and components and the track surface

rim that thin cylindrical portion of a rear wheel to which the tire/"donut" is glued/attached

rims commonly, term used to refer to rear wheels

roadster commonly, used to refer to any older, open drag car

roll, slow the act of slowly driving the car down the track, usually for the purpose of applying glue

roll-out calculated distance based on the circumference of the (rear) tire

roll-out (verb) the act of slowly driving the car down the track, usually for the purpose of applying glue

run commonly, term used to refer to a completed pass down the strip

run (verb) also commonly, the act of making a pass down the strip

S screw, endbell screw(s) that attach the endbell to the motor can, usually 4 in number

screw, hardware screw(s) that attach the hardware to the endbell, usually 4 in number

screw, motor screw(s) that attach the motor to a mounting tab on the chassis, usually 2 in number

screw-in (motor) a motor capable of being attached to a chassis via mounting screws and without solder

screw-in (chassis) chassis constructed or modified to take a screw-in motor

sensor (track) electronic (induction) or electro-optical (light beam) devices used to initiate and trigger a timing system

setscrew small headless fastener with internal hex drive used to attach gears and wheels to the axle

setscrew, hollow fastener (see above) with hex drive broached from end to end; slightly lighter weight than solid

scale weighing device used to check class cars for specific class weight compliance

scale (verb) the act of weighing cars, frequently during technical inspection

scale car commonly, a car which has been built to maintain a more replica-like proportion and appearance

scale tire commonly, larger rim and tire diameter which is proportionally more correct in appearance

SDRA Scale Drag Racing Association, national sanctioning body for slot car drag racing

shaft (armature) the steel core shaft of an armature over which the stack laminations and commutator are pressed

shunt (verb) to install shunt wires

shunt wire additional bypass wires/braids from the hardware lead wire attachment points directly to the brushes

singles magnets of one-piece or single-segment configuration

slot(s) the actual recess which directs and restricts the travel of the car and into which the guide fits

slug (a) commonly, name frequently applied to cylindrical airgap/bushing tool (see "airgap tool")

slug (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif shaft-mounted steel cylinder arm mass substitute placed in magnet bore when magnets are zapped

solder-in (motor) a motor which must be soldered into a chassis to be mounted

solder-in (chassis) a chassis into which a motor must be soldered to be mounted

spacer, armature aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, or phenolic washers on arm shaft used to take up end play or float

spacer, axle aluminum, bronze, phenolic, or plastic washers on the axle used to adjust clearances and wheel track

spacer, guide steel, phenolic, aluminum, or delrin washers that adjust guide height relationship to chassis

spin commonly, reference to tire "spin" during acceleration

spoiler (a) properly, a front (by diversion) or rear (by trim or downforce) air
control device

spoiler (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, used to refer to the rear trim/downforce air control device

spring(s) the coiled tensioning device(s) which maintain(s) brush contact with the commutator

spring cup cylindrical device, frequently aluminum or phenolic, around which spring is retained and pivots

stack commonly, term used to describe the pole lamination(s) assembly of an armature

stage (verb) the act of positioning a car at the starting line and properly triggering the staging lights

stage rule during an event, the time limit imposed on an individual for preparing the car and track to race

staging light(s) those lights which indicate that car has been properly positioned in the start line sensors

strap light-weight, minimal, "U"-shaped motor housing; most commonly found in cobalt motors

T t.q. the top qualifier, car or driver, in a class

t.q. (verb) the act of making the lowest e.t. qualifying run in a specific class

tab, hardware the flat surface of the endbell metal hardware to which the lead wires are soldered

tab, motor the plate or projection on a chassis to which a screw-in motor can be attached

tag commonly, a reference to the identifying label required on the windings of most Group armatures

tech that portion of a race during which cars are inspected for safety and conformance to class rules

tech (verb) the act of inspecting a car to determine suitability for competition and rules compliance

thump commonly, reference to strength of the "cogging" effect of motor's magnetic field on armature

timing system electronic/electro-optical system which calculates/displays reaction, e.t., speed of a competition or run

tire (a) commonly, reference to the rear tire/wheel assembly

tire (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, reference to the front o-ring used on the front wheels

tire truer a special file or common emery board used to modify the shoulder or o.d. of tires

tire truer (machine) motor-driven device used to cut, sand, or grind tire sidewalls and/or o.d.

track (a) commonly, the racing surface or structure itself

track (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif also commonly, the store or slot car shop where the "track" is located

track © the dimension between the centerline of the left and right front, rear, or wheelie bar wheel/tires

tree, Bracket ".500" tree; three-light sequence, .500 of a second apart, used to start bracket and some other races

tree, Christmas generically, reference to the entire timing system light assembly

tree, Pro ".400" tree; two-light system, .400 of a second apart, used to start heads-up or index classes

tree (verb) commonly, to gain a significant starting line advantage via significantly better reaction time

Trik Trax popular manufacturer of induction-sensor-based track timing system

true (commutator) com reconditioning via turning, resurfacing, polishing, and cleaning

true (tire) initial sizing or reconditioning of tire surfaces/o.d. via
grinding/regrinding or cutting/recutting

U upright the vertical chassis segments which hold the bushings/bearings

V voltage commonly, reference to nominal available total voltage provided by track batteries/power supply

W wind commonly, term used to describe an armature by the number and gauge of wire "winds" it has

wind (verb) reference to the custom or production manufacturing of armatures

wing (a) properly, a separate, distinct (and usually detached) aerodynamic control and downforce device

wing (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, used to describe rear spoiler

wing © term used by slot car road racers to generically describe any air-control device

wheel (a) properly, the central (usually metal) component of a wheel/tire assembly

wheel (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif commonly, term used to describe the wheel/tire/"donut" assembly

wheel, wheelie bar smaller-diameter wheels on wheelie bar assembly used to absorb launch shock & CG transfer

wheelbase (a) dimension from centerline, front axle, to centerline, rear axle

wheelbase (http://www.ho-tips.org/emoticons/cool.gif dimension from center, guide, to center, rear axle

wheelie bars commonly, term used to refer to the entire chassis segment/axle/wheels/tires assembly

Z zap (verb) to recharge and/or reorient the magnetic field strength and/or polarity of magnetsre it goes, It is very long :freak:

Glad to be back. :)

Glad you are back we all missed you.

Roger Corrie
Virginia Beach, VA

I'm gonna split a hair here. But a question first. Is it stuttering or sputtering?

"Sputtering" is consistent with poor contact related to crud, oxidation, mis-alignment, or under/unbalenced springing. More of an "on off" intermittent contact. The condition characterized by sluggish performance.

In most cases "stuttering" or telegraphing is caused by over sprung shoes, providing the wheels and tires are concentric. Usually occurring under throttle snap from the git go but will smooth out as you pick up speed. The condition is similar to a 1:1 car with bad shocks. Boing Boing Boing in rapid succession. Often popping the guide out of the slot.

Arcing is consistent with both conditions. Do the shoes have a groove cut into them? Does the spring tension feel even side to side when you poke the shoes with your finger? Is that tension the same as your other cars that run nicely? Are you welding all the way around the track?

Lever type pickup springs, like the comm springs in a T-jet, can fatigue. Having lost their temper they will not hold adjustment. Too soft!

Now from way out in left field. Although this car free wheels good when tested, I have seen marginal motors pipe up good on test but perform as you described under load. If you've double checked "TK's" list of the obvious and it doesnt come around. If all else fails. Try swapping the motor out for giggles.

Let us know how you make out. :thumbsup:

Hey, thanks for the responses.

It doesn't want to go around curves unless it is going full throttle...and even seems to have a hard time getting going on the straights...almost as if the magnets are too much...they are pretty strong. No smooth acceleration, it's all or nothing....put new pickup shoes on, and they seem to be fine....I think its making good contact all the way around...it does manage full laps, but as I said, you have to have the pedal to the metal....

I may go back to the old shoes...it seemed to run a whole lot better with them.....

Any further suggestiones welcomed!

Thanks again.

Question....

Is there a right way and a wrong way to remove the rear axle from a Tomy SG+ or Life Like chassis? It seems to me that with the tools available for pulling and pressing wheels, that removing the axle is the best way to upgrade the rims and tires. But I noticed that sometimes this has an affect on the marriage between the pinion and crown gears. I try to be as careful as possible when removing and reinstalling them, but in spite of my efforts, sometimes they just don't mesh quite "right"" when I'm done.

Suggestions?

I have a large tweezer that has a 45 degree bend in it on the end like this:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60885

and that's primarily what I use to pop the rear end out of all my cars. This allows me to apply equal pressure on both sides of the axle so it pops out on both sides at the same time. A straight tweezer works nearly as well.

If the gears aren't meshing quite right on a stock axle you may have to move the crown gear and/or the gear boss to make it better. The stock axle is not splined so it's more likely to slip.

Ditto the above.

Pictures with instructions of someone dis-assembling a car (or other common tasks) would be most helpful.

I know the basic stuff here isn't rocket-science, but I am reluctant to ruin any of these few, new, little marvels learning what not to do.

Which reminds me - I need to research the endbell tweaks on the SG+ cars. Seemed like something so simple (rotate that little thing) which I did, and now I have a car that stutter/sputters around the track.

The problem is that the comm brushes have seated in and have an angle on them, when you turn the endbell this slightly disturbes this break in seating process. If you use a car for a long period in 1 position I would leave it there. If you run the car for a while it should improve as the brushes come into better contact with the segments on the armature.

There's a pretty good picture of BRST's pre-tweaked SG+ endbell here.The picture is down the post a bit

http://www.canho.ca/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=163&start=0

Hornet - what's a good source of reamers?

I've been using the low budget version on endbell bushing reaming, 0.063 axle and a gear press followed by a little cleanup with rat tail file. I'm thinking I need to invest in something more refined and different sizes.

Glad you are back we all missed you.

Roger Corrie
Virginia Beach, VA

YEAH, what Roger said, Glad you're back. :woohoo: Randy.

I got my reamers from WizzardHO,but i think if you do a search,they shouldn't be to hard to find locally.
LOL,i didn't know anybody was still pushing axles through G bushings,that was real common before the new high-tech bushings came out,nothing wrong with still doing it that way.
I used to push a .059" tyco axle through the stock bushings back when i still ran G's