As a couple have already noticed, I just purchased a quarter scale off the Swap area of HT. I won’t get it until sometime next week.



That now means that I have all kinds of dumb newbie questions so maybe this can be a thread where us newbies can ask those questions that everyone else knows answers to. Might be a good place to have a collection of basic Q&As. So here goes…



Once I get the car I will want to not only tear it down some to make sure it is straight, clean and everything is tight but run it to make sure everything works. The question is:



What fuel/oil ratio should be used and since I don’t have racing gas available right now, can I use pump gas or TORCO racing fuel for this testing?

Hank
you must come to the grand ledge (lansing ) track you have been there before running ele. you will remember a lot of racers.

Hank, you can use pump gas for testing and mix with Amsoil sabre premix, follow the reccomended ratio. I would not race with pump gas, I use 112 octane VP racing fuel

Hank,

Welcome to the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen!

I figure I'll be racing in Lansing. Stopped by once last year to watch. I'll have to see where I can get some Amsoil Sabre.... I use Amsoil 100% Syn in my "big" car.

hank, a newbee, thats funny stuff !! im headed to freddies next weekend for the 500 race, its gonna be sweet, cant wait !!

welcome hank i am sure you will injoy it you are just that much closer to the real thing

Hank,

Glad to hear you got a 1/4 pounder!! You can use pump gas if you want just to run it in a bit. QSAC is recomending Amsoil Saber Professional I think the rate is like 1.5 to 2 Oz to a gallon or you can use up the Amsoil Dominator at about 3 Oz. to a gallon. We all use C16 for racing and that is what QSAC uses for the national events.

The reason for the C16 is, pump gas will tend to give you vapor lock at higher tempatures. I don't think you get all that much more horse power, but it does help. Burns more efficient.

Can't wait to see you at GLQSR.

70 to 80:1 hank any gas will do to get your feet wet you only need enough oil in there to keep the bearings lubed

Have any of you racers ever used Klotz Racing oil for premix? Back in the day we used Turbo Blue racing fuel & Klotz, it was a good combo.

By the way, I should have gone the Hankster route and purchased a used car, the wait for my new car is a KILLER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Song!
Where, Where, are you tonight! why have you left me here all alone! My car I'm a wanting is out west somewhere, no racing to speak of and FFFFFFFFFFFAAAAAAAAAARRRRTTTTTT ,
I 'm all alone!

Do you think the guys at Pro1 are getting tired of me calling. Na

Mike Clark

:wave: Should have bought a CAt-5:wave:

Here kitty kitty kitty! Yum yum! :)

How's racing the tri-oval with a 1/4 scale car?
I looks like it would be fun.

Our track isn't big enough for the 1/4 pounders, well we can run a couple @ a time just fooling around but no way could we race here. I am working on changing that little fact and if we do build another track it will be a tri-oval. I just like a track that is different in every corner.

If it loses, it's your motor in the car, lolHere kitty kitty kitty! Yum yum! :)

Getting kinda off the topic. Newbie thread!!!! Thanks


Take to General discussion perhaps.

hey, I'm a newbie!

Our track isn't big enough for the 1/4 pounders, well we can run a couple @ a time just fooling around but no way could we race here. I am working on changing that little fact and if we do build another track it will be a tri-oval. I just like a track that is different in every corner.
Build it and they will come. 550 feet run line and 12 to 15 degrees of banking. THAT WOULD ROCK!
Back to the newbie thing, What kind of spark plugs are you guys running and at what Gap?

OK, so where do you get C16 fuel?

OK, so where do you get C16 fuel?

Most motorcycle shops that sell dirt bikes have it along with PWC shops!!!....

Dave Dygon
Owner and Crew #3 THE ROKKIE SENSATION" MIKE DYGON

hank
if you come to lansing, bryan of bryansgarage always brings 5 gal. cans of it he will sell it by the gal. next race is 9-9-07

C16
Used in turbocharged engines, blown engines and nitrous applications with CRs up to 17:1. Recommended by the top nitrous oxide companies. Spec Fuel for NHRA Comp Eliminator. • Color: Blue
• Motor Octane: 117
• Specific gravity: .735 at 60° F


http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_fuels.html

Distribution Center Midwest:
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/popup_vplogo.jpg
Terre Haute, Indiana
Phone: 812-466-1175
Fax: 812-466-1675
E-Mail: vpmidwest@vpracingfuels.com (%20vpmidwest@vpracingfuels.com)


Places that sell it:
Detroit Speedshops
http://www.detroitspeedshops.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Livernois/main.d2w/report

Livernois Motorsports:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/category_browser.phtml

I know there are more in your area, but this may give you an idea as to where to start looking locally. Let me know where you are looking, and i'll try to find a place for you close by.

My stuff won't get here until Friday so it won't be ready for any racing this weekend. If I have a chance I'll see if I can make it up to Lansing. No big deal on fuel right now since this is the end of the season.... I was just wondering what type of outlets sold it.... plus get us back on the "newbie" topic :) Thanks!

Here is a newbie topic for sure. I changed the phenolic block on my engine and didn't notice the cap head screw heads were too tall for the carb to seat properly and the engine was sucking air below the carb, huge mistake that kept me from racing in my first qsac event.

Here is a newbie topic for sure. I changed the phenolic block on my engine and didn't notice the cap head screw heads were too tall for the carb to seat properly and the engine was sucking air below the carb, huge mistake that kept me from racing in my first qsac event.yep gotta grind them screws if they where the stock scews for stock phenolic block.i don't see how it sealed any??? this 1/4 scale stuff sometimes you learn alot real fast being a newbie!!!!! i learned a loctite lesson first outing not enough next time i put so much i had to heat the heims with a torch to get them freed up!!!!!!!!!

C-12 works just as good and its alittle cheaper. i use either 12 or 16. whatever they have when i go to buy.

Yep, been there, done that too...lol And I'm still learning what to do and not do.

Had the right front, lower A-arm screws come un-done during a heat race. I lasted to the end, but could not figure out why the car was so in-consistant. One lap would be a barn burner, the next it was all I could do to keep it from hitting the outside wall, then i would calm down, it woud get better. I'd push alittle harder and get a good lap, then wham. I'm busing loose again. Thought I was just driving in to hard or something. I took the car back to the pits and started pondering my next change(s) when i seen the A-arm flopping in the breeze. Screws were still there, just not connected to anything.

I guess when you are the mechanic and the driver, you say to yourself, "can't be mechanical, I didn't hit anything". Same thing when the car is consistant you say to yourself "It must be broken, cause I know I can drive".

What kind of receiver & servos do you guys use in Qscale cars?

Futaba PCM (R113iP) or Spektrum on the receiver. S3305 on the sterring servos and in most cases the futaba 1/4 scale servo S3302 or S3104(can't remember) on throttle/brake.

What kind of receiver & servos do you guys use in Qscale cars?

I use JR servos # DS8611A for all three servos, they are kinda high priced but I think well worth it!!!..
As far as my reciever I use Spektrum in a 3PK Futaba Radio!!!...

Dave Dygon

Futaba PCM (R113iP) or Spektrum on the receiver. S3305 on the sterring servos and in most cases the futaba 1/4 scale servo S3302 or S3104(can't remember) on throttle/brake.


I use the S3104. works good . don't worry. it can handle 6 volts. but don't try anything fancy and give it more. don't know what will happen.

HINT: whatever servo you get, ********** pay attention to your end point adjustments. pull only as far as you need to JUST get to full throttle.
leave ever so small , alittle daylight in between the stops on the barrel and barrel stop. excessive pulling beyond what you need will burn up a throttle servo up in no time.

Good point but for good insurance you can use a servo saber on the throttle as well as the steering! I always did this on my pro1 and lightnings before the Cracker car!

Rattler...

Never did like a servo saver on the throttle/brake side. Would rather use springs on brake side. and have throttle as positive as possible.Don't like a spongy throttle. MPO!

Like LetsRace said. Adjust them endpoints!!!!!

Always have a saver on Steering.

here is some more good free advice.
if you look close at the fast guys cars, everytime they put the car on the track, everything is ready to go. everything is locktite, nothing is loose and needs maintaince. everything is as it should be when the car goes out. and when something is bent or broken, it gets fixed ,(the right way) before it hits the track again. even after a run , and they have a clean run, they still look the car over really good to see if a bolt is backing out from vibration. you won't see a top runner going out on the track with oil all over the bottom of shocks, (shocks leaking and not doing their job now) and expecting it to run right.
and if you ask these top drivers where everything is set (camber, toe, ride hieght, etc.) they know. they may not tell you , LOL but they know. I see a new guy out struggling to get car around track. ask him these settings and he doesn't know. and by new i mean 1/4. they may have been racing RC for years and im amazed at the lack of detail paid attention to the cars when they get to the big scales. more then likly the car is way off where it should be and they are trying to fix a car that isn't setup right to begin with.
maintaince is the key to keeping a car fast everytime it goes out. and right all the setup down when you get it good.
so when you want to try something , you can always go back to that setup incase you head in wrong direction.
this is alittle long winded but i spend most of my time at the track working problems out on others cars. and surprised at the half a**ed work done and expecting the cars to run up front.
if you got an eletrical problem on the car, find the problem. and fix it. don't take the car back on the track without changeing anything or troubleshooting to fix it and expect the car to work this time out.
i see too many bandaids being used on the cars and not fixing it right . and wondering why they don't finish a race.
and if your practicing and something is wrong with the car, doing another 25 laps isn't going to fix it. come in and fix it.
If you hit the wall , U probably bent something, it may be small but just enought to change the handling. check everything. looks good..., then recheck the front toe, and reset the sway bar. make sure its right before going back on the track.
just something to think about .