Hey folks,

How about some of your tune up tips for this chassis.

I like the different armature and magnet combos you can experiment with. I've had good luck with Mean Green arms and Dark Blue/Red magnets.

Flat ski pick up shoes, and I like to tighten the rivit that holds the pick up shoe hanger to the plate that connects to the brush. This helps improve electrical current if the rivit is loose. You'll know it's loose if you can rotate the pick up shoe hanger back and forth. Mashing the rivit also helps give a little more track/rail clearence.

Randy.

I restake rivets too! After some Tarnex and a good blast from the compressor, I wash a slurry of di-electric grease thinned with contact cleaner or brake clean into between the plates.

Then I whack the rivets. Restaking always helps, sometimes it solves some of those gremlin type current problems. Whether the extra effort of another step really helps or not only time will tell. I figure anything that keeps "fuzz" from growing between the plates and spreading them apart is probably a good thing.

Quick question on these chassis. Do they run hot? I've built a couple with stock parts and the mean green arm. They seem to get warm awfully quick. Another pair off eBay would get too hot to touch after a lap or two. I got one of those to cool down a bit by reducing the brush tension, but it was still a dog and still too warm AFAIK. Right now I have a couple that are useable, but the only other chassis I've had run this hot is a Life-Like M chassis.

I restake rivets too!

Then I whack the rivets. Restaking always helps, sometimes it solves some of those gremlin type current problems.


I have even ran across some of the new chassis that needed a little attention to this detail. But a most definite check and see on those classic chassis from Aurora. :) rr

Quick question on these chassis. Do they run hot? I've built a couple with stock parts and the mean green arm. They seem to get warm awfully quick. Another pair off eBay would get too hot to touch after a lap or two. I got one of those to cool down a bit by reducing the brush tension, but it was still a dog and still too warm AFAIK. Right now I have a couple that are useable, but the only other chassis I've had run this hot is a Life-Like M chassis.


I've ran across some that have run hot. It could be any number of problems.

1. One of the armature laminates could ohm higher than the other two.
2. The magnets could be too weak / too strong / mismatched in strength.
3. Binding somewhere in the drivetrain. Drivetrain should run freely.
4. Too much brush tension on com plate.

I hope this helps. Randy.

I restake rivets too! After some Tarnex and a good blast from the compressor, I wash a slurry of di-electric grease thinned with contact cleaner or brake clean into between the plates.

Then I whack the rivets. Restaking always helps, sometimes it solves some of those gremlin type current problems. Whether the extra effort of another step really helps or not only time will tell. I figure anything that keeps "fuzz" from growing between the plates and spreading them apart is probably a good thing.

I haven't used the tarnex and di-electric grease thinned with contact or brake cleaner. But will definitly will do so in the future. Thanks for the knowledge. Randy.

I've ran across some that have run hot. It could be any number of problems.

1. One of the armature laminates could ohm higher than the other two.
2. The magnets could be too weak / too strong / mismatched in strength.
3. Binding somewhere in the drivetrain. Drivetrain should run freely.
4. Too much brush tension on com plate.

I hope this helps. Randy.

Thanks for the tips. I have fooled with the brush tension and reducing it has made two of the hotties runable. It also frees things up and the cars have a lot of rollout (no brake). I'll give the others a try.

Remember, these cars are pretty much the same as the TuffOnes, but with a lower stance. As stated, you don't need much brush tension to cause heat issues (like an Aurora TO). Another way to better performance, try replacing the non-mag magnets with some JL/AW magnets. But for organized races, ask first to see if it's allowed.