This is question for you guys setup with a lap timer. The mean green armatures what do ya'll think about em and how much does it shave off the time or does it?

Somewhere is a good thread started by Pete Makay. I beleive Tim Leppert and a few other guys clarified some arm questions, including the mean green.

I'm a lousy searcher, but my memory, when functioning, is still pretty good. Hopefully we can resurrect this intel for you.

Thanks Bill. I found it that was kinda what I was thinking about those little suckers.

Can you post a link to it? Randy.

I'm not sure if this will work or not but the address is.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=179317

Hope it worked.

Thanks for the link.

I like the Mean Green armatures (green on green) but I've had great luck with the (gold on green) armatures.

We run stock X-Tractions/Magna-Tractions in our class. All we can add is rear Slip-On silicone tires. That's it.

Try to keep it even and simple for the younger and new racers.

Randy.

We run stock X-Tractions/Magna-Tractions in our class. All we can add is rear Slip-On silicone tires. That's it.

Try to keep it even and simple for the younger and new racers.

Randy.

I think thats the way it should be. It keeps the new racers from getting discouraged when the old veterans that have been racing since the 60s get in there and stomp some a$$. Makes it a little closer race.

Hey All,
Our Club website has a lot of information on armatures. Just follow the "Hop-Up-Hints" link on the website below.

http://frhoracing.com/

Hey All,
Our Club website has a lot of information on armatures. Just follow the "Hop-Up-Hints" link on the website below.

http://frhoracing.com/

It looks like a good website but a lot of links are not working....FYI

It depends on the actual arm. I have several Mean Greens (original and re-makes). Some are much faster than others. I like the original dark green mean greens as they have good torque and high rpm.
You need to match the gearing (crown and pinion) to any given arm. If it is a particularly high rpm, it will probably lack some low end torque and you will need a lower rear end gear (larger crown gear with more teeth) to take full advantage of it. If the gearing is too high, it will have slow acceleration and will lose to a standard arm.
Nothing screams like an original quadralam (expensive if you can find one!), but a good mean green with the right gearing can come close for a lot less money.

Most low resistance arms like the mean green (mean in a nice way I might add) like strong motor magnets (JL or SII), a free setup (no binding), and plenty of track to stretch their legs. Bind 'em up and they'll fry like a corn dog.

Like most arms that are faster revving, the mean greens lack some of the torque of a standard arm but this can be more than compensated for by installing a larger crown gear.

I ohm checked 15 new Mean Green armatures and I found 2 that were 6.2, 6.2, 6.2.

Is that good ?

Or has anybody found any Mean Greens that are lower than that ?

That is pretty low, considering that the quadralam comes in at around 3.9 or 4

We race the mean green arms in our modified T-Jet/JL class.
For only $6.00 at Dave's HO Raceway why wouldn't you want to add some poneys to your race car? We would love to race against a fray set up, to date, no takers! LOL Open motor T-Jet racing is the best. We had an entry a few years ago that ran a drag arm in his t-jet on our 10 turn Buck Track. He was off the track more then on. A 16 ohm fray car would have beat that set up. We found that the Mean Green is perfect for our application.

I ohm checked 15 new Mean Green armatures and I found 2 that were 6.2, 6.2, 6.2.

Is that good ?

Or has anybody found any Mean Greens that are lower than that ?

Yes, I've got some 6.0's and 6.1's. If I remember correctly the last bunch I went through ranged between 6.0 and 6.4.

The best ones I have are the ones with dark green wires and green tips. If I'm not mistaken, I think they came in non-magnatraction cars. With the right gearing in a magnatraction chassis (maybe a Tomy Turbo gear) they are the next best thing to a quadralam. I have one that is especially fast that I paired up with a 25 tooth G Plus gear (a little carving required) and it flies.

We race the mean green arms in our modified T-Jet/JL class.
For only $6.00 at Dave's HO Raceway why wouldn't you want to add some poneys to your race car? We would love to race against a fray set up, to date, no takers! LOL Open motor T-Jet racing is the best. We had an entry a few years ago that ran a drag arm in his t-jet on our 10 turn Buck Track. He was off the track more then on. A 16 ohm fray car would have beat that set up. We found that the Mean Green is perfect for our application.

I think Fray tuning has found pretty much the perfect blend. I was just reading about an open T-Jet race a little while back, a Fray legal car cleaned house.

Mean Green's are very good armatures. At Dave's ho raceway I used a mean green arm in my t-jet and took 1st place and rookie of the year.

What is the significance of a high or low ohm arm? Which is better and why?

From my experience, there is no "better". It depends on your driving style combined with the layout. A lower ohm armature will generally produce a higher top end. But you pay for that in torque and response. So on a long oval like mine, the "mean green" is the way to go. On a tight road course like my MCRC, the higher ohm armatures are much easier to drive and quicker off the corners.
Another armature to give consideration is the "red devil" with red wire on red stacks. They usually ohm higher than a "mean green" but are often a great compromise.

gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

i just got a stock aurora tjet with white green tough ones magnets,and put a mean green in with jl/aw bevelled brushes,and tweaked the brush spring tension...holy moly does this thing rev!great combo ,with wide jel claws on the back,this thing is fast for a stock aurora chassis..all copper,open rivet.the jls are faster but way harder to keep on the track,as they spin out all the time

That is pretty low, considering that the quadralam comes in at around 3.9 or 4

mine ohms at 4.1 every pole

Most of my mean greens ohm out at 6.0-6.5 range.

do the mean greens work well in a mt?green/copper

yoobetcha

thanks bill i will give it a try got an extra couple chassis/gearplates somewhere...

Some of them will spin up quite nicely with the bigger magnets. You are basically replacing a 15 ohm rig with a 6 ohm rig in a stronger field.

The best ones I have are the ones with dark green wires and green tips. If I'm not mistaken, I think they came in non-magnatraction cars. With the right gearing in a magnatraction chassis (maybe a Tomy Turbo gear) they are the next best thing to a quadralam. I have one that is especially fast that I paired up with a 25 tooth G Plus gear (a little carving required) and it flies.

my buddy has an mt with the dark green mean green.that's one fast car!we like to put our road cars on the drag strip and he beat me every time with that motor.
and bill that sounds good.maybe if i do that i will have an mt that can keep up with him!

Some of them will spin up quite nicely with the bigger magnets. You are basically replacing a 15 ohm rig with a 6 ohm rig in a stronger field.

so i managed to swap out the motors,but the arm is too high up on the shaft to contact the brushes!oh well...

so i managed to swap out the motors,but the arm is too high up on the shaft to contact the brushes!oh well...

so i got the mean green(jl)in a mt chassis...springs w/braids to compensate for the higher armature.that is instead of motor brushes...didn't go any faster than the stock set up with the red devil arm...oh well !:rolleyes:

Maybe some of you might find this site interesting.
http://www.geocities.com/dc_ho_motors/

so i managed to swap out the motors,but the arm is too high up on the shaft to contact the brushes!oh well...

Could you use Super ll brush cups mounted a little higher in the chassis?

that's assuming i have any,which i don't...pretty low slot budget i am afraid...good thing i get most of my track freebox or at thrift stores!lol!yeah,what i ended up doing is shunting from the brush spring to the comm plate with braids from a 1/43 car(donor chassis)it worked,but i didn't get any more power than the red devil arm,so i went back to stock...i find i spin out alot with the jl meangreens anyway...

I find it hard to fathom that you have the arm mounted incorrectly.

You are using the proper brush spring or similar length substitute cut from a t-jet pick up spring?

Although uncommon, I have seen maggie brushes get flipped up on edge and pounded into the hole when the gear plate is forced down. This can bend the comm shunt down and cause currentus interuptus.

hey bill!its a jl meangreen from an aw tjet gearplate...so,its mounted higher on the shaft,therefore not reaching down far enough in the larger chassis.as mt's are hard enough to put together as it is with the stronger magnets,i did not want to go through the hassle of having the brushes up too high,as its tough to get the gearplate attached without disturbing the brushes.hope this explains it better...