Greetings once again fellow HT'ers.......

Well,its been cool here,the family is leaving me home alone for a week.The slots took a break for awhile as Ive been busy with work and my music,but Im back.

So Ive got a few things planned.First question:

I give up on using the light sensors for my lap counter.Im going to pick up some reed switches off eBay.Does five bucks a pop sem like a lot of dough for one of these switches??????

Next,any and all tips on how to install these would be great.I know its been covered before,but maybe some new tips or tricks have turned up since last time it was discussed.

When I built my track a few years ago,I thought I was being slick and inlaid the whole setup into a piece of 1/4 sheetrock.
The idea sucked.So now Im going to do it right,and cut borders out of particle board.
I guess I'll cut them out with my hand jig saw.Or is there a better way????

So I'll be doing that,and I finally got a nice flat screen moniter for the lap timer.Thinking of mounting it on the wall like a picture.

Im going to make either Friday or Saturday nighgt race night over here.Mainly just friends and guys I work with,no one has ever raced before.
I have about forty billion Tomy G+ chassis kiking around here.So to keep things on the cheap,Im going to rebuild a dozen or so of them,making them as equal as I can to do some sort of IROC race or something like that.

Say what you want,but I love the G+ cars.I think of them as direct blood relatives to the Tjets.Tomy bought Aurora,and the G+ chassis they make today was one of the things they inherited.
I remember when the G's came out back in the day.They were mind blowing,I loved them.
So for me,the G's bring me back to where I left off 30 or so years ago.A direct link to my slot car past.

We were all talking about having a tune up tips forum.Im going to start a thread on the G+ chassis.I have a lot of tips to share and would love to learn more about them and tweaking a few more .01's of a sec off my lap times.

Oh,and here is a REALLY old pic of my track.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/racerx10990/track1.jpg



peace
Mike

Mike, I would recommend MDF for the borders and a jigsaw will be a challenge. A bandsaw is the way to go.

I just started my infield areas yesterday and there coming out pretty good so far. I'm using that pink density foam cut and shaved to fit.

Mike, Miniatronics HO scale reeds, usually about $9 for 5. Use them with my nail trick, you should have no problems. Somewhere back on here and on slotking's board there are drawings of how to lay them out. Don't forget to put a 100-ohm resistor in series with each one, just in case your port can't handle a dead short.

Gene

Hi Mike.

I'm guessing you already found this old thread, but I'll post a link here for others to read also. (I happened to have bookmarked this thread for when I was researching reeds)

Reed Switch Topic Link (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=164108&highlight=reed+switch)

I first tried some reed switches other then the miniatronics ones. They were like .25 cents each, and the glass tube was about 1.5" long....and they were a pain to get installed, and then they didn't seem to catch every lap. Switched them out to the miniatronics and they have worked flawlessly.

I went with the "N" scale just because my local hobby train store had these in stock. Miniatronics (http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=3_1)

Lastly, here is a link to my track thread where I talked about installing mine.

Scaf Track Thread - reed switches (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1850391&highlight=reed#post1850391)

Jeff

On the borders, I agree with Tycoarm, in that if you go wood, use MDF, and a bandsaw would be mucho better then a jig saw. I bought a Ryobi bandsaw at H-Depot for $99 primarily to do my borders.

I bought a Ryobi bandsaw at H-Depot for $99 primarily to do my borders.

Cracks me up what we will do for our hobbies. I needed to cut the plywood so I bought a brand new circular saw when I started building my track. Haven't had a use for it since. :lol:

Mike, I'm with ya on the G+ thing. I need a few more bucks to send to Coach as I agreed to buy a few of his Super G's he has that I was looking for. You also might have covered this previously but what is/was the deal with your light sensors?

When I built my track a few years ago,I thought I was being slick and inlaid the whole setup into a piece of 1/4 sheetrock.
The idea sucked.

Mike,
What sucked about the idea? The whole concept of sinking the track, or using sheetrock instead of plywood?

Thanks...Joe

Guys,thanks for the tips so far.
Im going to try to get to each one individually as time allows.

Starting with the last one first........

Joe,inlaying the track is a GREAT idea.Ive raced on them before,that was why I did mine.

BUT,I should have done it with MDF instead.I dont know what I was thinking when I used sheetrock.It was three or four years ago.I forgot what I had for lunch today already.

So now,I made triple work for myself.
My track is mounted and locked to the table.All the joints are soldered,joints smoothed,etc.
When I originally did it,I put the layout on the board,traced it,and cut it out.
NOW,I have to fiure out all of these turn radi and cut them out and make them fit.I have some ideas.I'll share them if they work out.

Mike

NOW,I have to fiure out all of these turn radi and cut them out and make them fit.I have some ideas.I'll share them if they work out. Mike

Here is what I did in case it helps:

I had a thin, narrow, piece of wood, about 2' long. It was a slat from an old wood mini-blind. I drilled a small hole about .5" from one end. I decided to go 1.25" wide on my borders. I calculated all the radi I needed for both inside and outside borders for every curve. For example: for an inside border on a 6" curve, I would need a radi at 1.75", and one at 3". The outside border for this curve is a 6" and a 7.25".

Once I had all my dimensions up to an 18" outside border, I marked and drilled them on the slat, measured from the initial small hole.

I loosely nailed the slat to a piece of MDF at the first hole, and drew portions of circles from each of the other holes. Removed the slat, and drew two straight lines to mark the outside edges of the 1/8th circles. Cut these out, and these became my template pieces for the actual borders.

Joe,inlaying the track is a GREAT idea.Ive raced on them before,that was why I did mine.

BUT,I should have done it with MDF instead.I dont know what I was thinking when I used sheetrock.

Does MDF come in 1/4" thickness. I've only seen 1/2" and 5/8" (or 3/4").

Thanks...Joe

Does MDF come in 1/4" thickness. I've only seen 1/2" and 5/8" (or 3/4").

Thanks...Joe


Joe,

Im using what I used to refer to as "particle board".Whatever it was it was cheap,like 14 bucks for a 4x8 sheet.

Mike

Does MDF come in 1/4" thickness. I've only seen 1/2" and 5/8" (or 3/4").

Thanks...Joe

Joe,
Home Depot sells it in 2X3' sheets. The price is just under $4. It's much easier on band saw blades then particle board.

Notice the rumble strip line at the bottom of the template border. You should cut this out first, then mark your holes for the screws on the border.
Note: The rumble strip actually just floats between the border and the track.

Also if your going to cut a series of rumble strips, after cutting each strip mark the back side of the border and strip to keep them matched up. Not every cut will be the same and this keeps the border and strip gap to a minimum.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSI.jpg

You get more borders per sheet by cutting them out like this, instead of in full complete corners.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIV.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HOAPRONS2.jpg

On elevated areas I used luane board under the track and left an edge. The border can be attached with screws, glue or tape.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HoelevationsVI.jpg

Tycoarm/Tycosaur

Tyco,

Nice work. What is the purpose of the rumble strips? Would it have to do with expansion and contraction of the materials? Or are there other benefits?

Rudy

Tyco,

Nice work. What is the purpose of the rumble strips? Would it have to do with expansion and contraction of the materials? Or are there other benefits?

Rudy

Rudy,
I cut them out for ease of painting. You could paint them while on the border as well.
The rumble strips serve a purpose for oversteer. Also in eliminating the guard rails the outside lane does not have the advantage of riding the rails.

Tycoarm/Tycosaur

In regards to lap counting devices, here's a link (http://howorld.fsmra.com/archives/howto/lap_counter_activator_strips/comparison.html) to an article on HO World comparing the different types of lap counting 'triggers'. The article has a few suggestions on things to look out for with reed switches.

-- Bill

When I built my track a few years ago,I thought I was being slick and inlaid the whole setup into a piece of 1/4 sheetrock.
The idea sucked.So now Im going to do it right,and cut borders out of particle board.
Mike

Tycoarm,
I saw the 1/4" MDF today at Home Depot when I wasn't even looking for it. If I ever go back for it, I'll never find it again. LOL

Mike,
If you made a mistake using sheetrock, can't you simply remove the track, remove the sheetrock and replace it with MDF instead? Seems if you want to do borders, you're going to have to remove the sheetrock anyway.
Although, I guess you're planning on leaving the track in place and just removing the sheetrock?
It might also be possible to remove the sheetrock and replace it with MDF without lifting the track. If you have extra track lying around, you could use that to mimick your existing layout (section by section if necessary), trace it on the MDF, cut the MDF and install it around the track. Any small gaps could be filled with something (Bond-O?).
Just a thought. I think sinking a track is a great way to do it and it would be my first choice.

Joe

In regards to lap counting devices, here's a link (http://howorld.fsmra.com/archives/howto/lap_counter_activator_strips/comparison.html) to an article on HO World comparing the different types of lap counting 'triggers'. The article has a few suggestions on things to look out for with reed switches.

-- Bill

Bill, while they mention the "idea" of a steel rod, I've never had an issue with this reed setup I worked up on my own:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=1710587&postcount=9

I use the Miniatronics HO scale reeds, they count bone-stock T-Jets, even jacked up with AFX wheels and tires. The nail acts as a flux collector to prevent false laps on adjacent lanes when running mag cars, I've tested up to a full polymer T1 (never tested a full-blown neo car, I wouldn't run them rail-rippers on sectional plastic anyway). I've used the setup commercially without a single complaint. I think it is important to use the HO switches, the N scale are shorter which will give too narrow a window for the frequency on some PC's, much like a too short dead strip.

One note as I know a lot of guys here use LapTimer 2000, which is a great free program. If you are getting missed laps, make sure you go into the settings menu and set the program to recieve high priority from windows, and kill any other programs that may be running in the background that you don't need. You'd be surprised how often this cures someones lapcounting issues.

*EDIT: One other note, contrary to just about every other article on reeds, I do not run the reeds' flat surfaces parallel to the rails. My setups are all:

Rail-> l - <-Reed

I think it is important to use the HO switches, the N scale are shorter which will give too narrow a window for the frequency on some PC's, much like a too short dead strip.

Gene,

I was wondering if the only difference between the HO scale and N scale miniatronics reeds were the magnets they put in the packages. Here is a pic of the N scale I used. Not sure what the dimension is of the actual overlap of the contacts inside.

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/13371/2127112990099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2127112990099980462bZZYTX)

How do the HO scale ones compare?

I'll have to find one to check, I believe they are going to be 3/4"-1".

On the borders, I agree with Tycoarm, in that if you go wood, use MDF, and a bandsaw would be mucho better then a jig saw. I bought a Ryobi bandsaw at H-Depot for $99 primarily to do my borders.

Scaf,

Just bought a bandsaw to cut borders out on my larger track layout this winter. Bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Nice layout Mike...real nice! Seems like lots of people are doing work on there layout on HT right now. I am painting my track lane lines yellow and white right now. Break is done back to work...oh dang.

Bob...zilla

Guys.....

Ive been really busy,havent had the time to respond.
The info you guys have posted is AWESOME.Thanks so much.

Thinking about all of this,and I am kicking myself in the butt now.....

All of this work Im doing,borders,soldering,sanding,smoothing out track joints etc etc etc.......

I would have been WAY ahead of the game if I had spent a few more bucks and bought a Maxx or some other track like that.

The extra money would have made up for the time I spent getting this track operational for racing.

In the end I guess,it was easier to do this over time,a little here and there.Main reason being,it was easier to sneak 50 or 100 bucks under the wifes radar every now and then then it would have been to sneak in 14 or 15 c notes.

Oh well.

Mike

snip.......In the end I guess,it was easier to do this over time,a little here and there.Main reason being,it was easier to sneak 50 or 100 bucks under the wifes radar every now and then then it would have been to sneak in 14 or 15 c notes...Mike

LMAO Mike! I resemble that remark!

LOL!

Hence the reason I like using money orders for everything that I can instead of putting it on the plastic and having it show up on a statement.

"100 dollars to who? For what?" :rolleyes:

I gotta say though she never says much other than that.

In the end I guess,it was easier to do this over time,a little here and there.Main reason being,it was easier to sneak 50 or 100 bucks under the wifes radar every now and then then it would have been to sneak in 14 or 15 c notes.

Oh well.

Mike

Gotta wonder if the wife thinks the same way? :p

Gene,

I was wondering if the only difference between the HO scale and N scale miniatronics reeds were the magnets they put in the packages. Here is a pic of the N scale I used. Not sure what the dimension is of the actual overlap of the contacts inside.

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/13371/2127112990099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2127112990099980462bZZYTX)

How do the HO scale ones compare?

For racing Purposes Reed Switches do not come on scale. They come in different sizes with different sensitivity. I bought a whole bunch od different size and sensitivet reed sensors from Mouser and they one I like the best is only .4 inches lonh and is sensitive enough to pick up a Thunder Plus chassis or the weakest TJET magnet car I have.

The P/N is 816-RI-02A
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=816-RI-02A

These work great. I hot Glus mine under the track between the slot and the rail.

Roger Corrie

Scaf....

I got the switches in that Gene said to get.The HO ones.

Just looking real quick at your pic,and my "HO" switches,they look to be one in the same.

Mike

My wife hasnt worked for the last few years due to a back injury from a car wreck.

So nothing works anymore,not even money orders.

She doesnt even say anything anymore to me personally.She sends me one line emails,typed all in caps to denote shouting.

The one I got the other day went something like this

STOP BUYING SLOT CARS ON EBAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was followed by a horrific smiley emoticon to drive the point home.One that burned my eyes when I looked at it.Maybe she has some kind of "angry pissed off wife" emoticon site she belongs to.



Mike

Scaf....

I got the switches in that Gene said to get.The HO ones.

Just looking real quick at your pic,and my "HO" switches,they look to be one in the same.

Mike

:thumbsup: Keep us posted on how you wire them up.

:thumbsup: Keep us posted on how you wire them up.

Will do.

Right now Im trying to think how I want to set up the 19" flat panel I am going to use for the lap counter.

The old cathode tube one is hung from the ceiling.Thinking about maybe mounting this on on the wall.

Thinking about maybe using a lap top I have here that has a messed up display to replace the old computer that I am currently using now that still runs Win95.

So much to do.


Mike

I've got a flat panel on the 'to buy' list also. As for computer, I was using an old IBM thinkpad that I couldn't get sound out of. I switched it to a not-as-old Dell laptop, and it wasn't until I did that I realized what I was missing by not having sound. Laptimer 2000 gives a sound for each lap, so you know that you triggered the reed switches. Plus a different sound if you beat your best laptime. Had no idea, lol.

I've got a flat panel on the 'to buy' list also. As for computer, I was using an old IBM thinkpad that I couldn't get sound out of. I switched it to a not-as-old Dell laptop, and it wasn't until I did that I realized what I was missing by not having sound. Laptimer 2000 gives a sound for each lap, so you know that you triggered the reed switches. Plus a different sound if you beat your best laptime. Had no idea, lol.

Yep.
I only look up,and then only for a split second,when I hear the best lap bell.

Thinking of putting the reeds in a part of the track so that when that bell goes off,I'll be looking at the track in the direction of the monitor.

Hung up the monitor today.Snaked a piece of cord in thru the flat screen housing,and hung it from the ceiling by a chain.Worked pretty well.

Also cleaned the track today as well.What a nightmare that was,I am DEFINETLY making a cover to go over it when its not in use.

Also moved the table further from the wall so there is better access for marshalling.
Moved a 4X16 table by myself.Wasnt easy but I did it.

Picked up the 100 ohm resistors and some JB weld for the reed project.

Mike

Mike,

What are you thinking of using for a cover? I have two cats in the house and definitely want to do something in this respect to keep them from getting up on the track layout once I start working on it. Best idea I have come up with is a series of thin plywood or mdf sheets with handles attached but since I haven't started yet, I'm open to any idea that beats mine.

Mike,

What are you thinking of using for a cover? I have two cats in the house and definitely want to do something in this respect to keep them from getting up on the track layout once I start working on it. Best idea I have come up with is a series of thin plywood or mdf sheets with handles attached but since I haven't started yet, I'm open to any idea that beats mine.


Just going to use some thick plastic shheting I found when I was cleaning the basement yesterday.
I'll cut it to the width and length of the table,staple each end to some scrap 1X4 that I have,and roll it out when Im done playing.

Mike

Great idea. But I think I'm forced to stick with the "sturdier" idea. Much like their Dad, the boys (cats) are well fed.

how about a mini electric fence? :p

how about a mini electric fence? :p

LOL.

Nah, I'm perfectly content to not have anyone from PETA at my door. I'm sure they could care less if I had accidentally electrocuted myself, but........I digress.

UPDATE: My wife has informed me to forget about PETA. This approach may result in all my belongings being moved to the front lawn.

Subtle hints are her specialty. LOL.

I got in a little early tonite.I got two of the reeds mounted on the track,mounted with some of the JB Weld kneadable epoxy.

Glad I bought extras.I broke two before I even did anything.Then I remembered the most important tool on my workbench,dollar store cheezy reading glasses so I could see what the hell I was doing.

Also mounted stereo speakers on the workbench,with a sub woofer.Finally I can race with tunes.

Thanks for the tips guys.I had this thread open while I was working so I could check back on the info you guys posted.Big help.

Mike

All righty then................

Got almost everything done.Extension cables,flat panel mounted on the wall,all of the little things that I needed to do.

Now,I have the lap counter hooked up.Reed switches installed exactly the way that you guys said,etc.

Its missing laps.Which is really pi$$ing me off.

Im using my laptop.Win Vista.Joystick adapter into a USB port on the computer.

Am I missing something here?????Maybe in the settings????????

I did not put the flux collectors in yet.Could that be it????

Im almost thinking that it could be the 100 ohm resistors.Maybe I dont need them?????

Mike

All righty then................

Got almost everything done.Extension cables,flat panel mounted on the wall,all of the little things that I needed to do.

Now,I have the lap counter hooked up.Reed switches installed exactly the way that you guys said,etc.

Its missing laps.Which is really pi$$ing me off.

Im using my laptop.Win Vista.Joystick adapter into a USB port on the computer.

Am I missing something here?????Maybe in the settings????????

I did not put the flux collectors in yet.Could that be it????

Im almost thinking that it could be the 100 ohm resistors.Maybe I dont need them?????

Mike
Let me know when its play time I would love to come by...

Mike,

Since it sounds like you are getting some laps, I'd look at your settings. Even though I am using reed switches to a parallel cable, I was also getting missed laps until I messed around with settings (I'm guessing you are using LapTimer 2000?).

I think the setting that solved my problem was on the Ports tab, where I selected "TrakMate Sensor Compatible". It was either that, or the "Invert Lap Switching Logic" which I have checked.

The other settings that are working for me are:

Timer Resolution: 1ms
Debounce Delay: 500ms

Keep us posted. Also, I'd be curious how you wired this up to a USB port, since one day I may have to use a computer that doesn't have the parallel port.

Jeff

EDIT: I do have the flux colectors in, but I did not wire in any resistors.

Let me know when its play time I would love to come by...

Once I get the bugs worked out,probably in the very near future.

Email me at Speed_King@optonline.net or StuntManMike@optonline.net



Mike,

Since it sounds like you are getting some laps, I'd look at your settings. Even though I am using reed switches to a parallel cable, I was also getting missed laps until I messed around with settings (I'm guessing you are using LapTimer 2000?).

I think the setting that solved my problem was on the Ports tab, where I selected "TrakMate Sensor Compatible". It was either that, or the "Invert Lap Switching Logic" which I have checked.

The other settings that are working for me are:

Timer Resolution: 1ms
Debounce Delay: 500ms

Keep us posted. Also, I'd be curious how you wired this up to a USB port, since one day I may have to use a computer that doesn't have the parallel port.

Jeff

EDIT: I do have the flux colectors in, but I did not wire in any resistors.

Jeff thanks for the info.

Im sure what it boils down to is changing some settings.And I also have seen no mention of Win Vista on the Lap Timer 2000 download page.

The thing I use to conect to the computer is one of those joystick to usb adapters.
Greg Braun has them on his for sale page.

At any rate,even tho what I have so far is by no means perfected yet,its still way more accurate then any LED/IR setup I tried.

Ultimately I wanted dead strips,which was the last thing I tried.
Couldnt get it to work with Lap Timer 2000 tho.

Mike