Hi, guys. I run a small (11 member) HO club in Canada that run strictly club-stock super g's. Our rules mandate stock motors, magnets, and frames. We run bsrt independent fronts and double flanged rears with slip-on silicones with lexan bodies. As everyone probably knows, quality super g frames are in fairly short supply so this year we've allowed g3 frames with super g 2-dot trac mags. The problem is if we transplant our super g stuff to a g3 frame, we lose 2-3/10ths of a second on our 6-lane 75 foot tyco trioval and more on our 85 foot roadcourse Has anyone else made the change and does anyone have any tips to help ease the transition? Do you recommend the soft or the stiff frame? Any tuning tips above and beyond the standard super g fare? All I've heard about the g3 is good stuff but we're really struggling and I can't get a response from Gary Beedle at Scale Auto regarding tuning. I know I've asked a lot here, but I've gotten a lot of good knowledge from this board in the past. Thanks for any and all responses. Rick @ Rose City Motorplex

Is everybody losing the same 2-3/10ths? if so no big deal.

Not that simple- some guys, like myself have 3 or 4 super g frames and won't lose the time while others, who have no super g frames left will have to go to the g3 and as things are, won't be able to keep up.

Sidecar53- I may have an answer for you... Email me directly at smokinHOs@aol.com


- Marc

Why not post it out here, I'm sure the info you have may help more than 1 person.

I seem to have good results switching the G to the G3 chassis with the medium stiff ones.I guess the stock G+ would be considered stiff.
Check your tire heights too.I like my G3s to leave a fine silver line on the magnets.Then it will break in nice,and drive really well.

Play with the gears too.I havent found a good rule of thumb with them tho.A combo that works on one G3 might no work so well on another car set up exactly the same.

And always watch your end bell when you reinstall.You can knock the motor brushes out of time if you're not careful.

Make sure you have good contact where the end bell contacts meet the shoe hangers.
Its only legal at my track,but I solder them for the best performance.
Giving them both a little sanding and bending out that contact on the endbell works too.
And if you have hemos or small needle nose,you can bend that little tab over itself for REALLY good contact.That one is almost as good as the dot of solder.

ANd then the front ends,and the motor bushings and on and on.

There's more stuff,I'll share more if you like.And maybe some of the other guys out there will chime in as well.

Mike