We have a enthusiastice group of racers who are tearing up tracks all over Michigan and Ohio with brushless 1/8th scale conversions. Neu 1512 1.5D/F or 2D/F seem to be the most popular motor.
MAX AMPS 6000 lipos seem to be the battery of choice.
I have attached some pics of some different chassis's conversions I am making.
Let me know what you think.
Dan

Is it feasible to run these kind of conversions with NiMH batteries? (Meaning decent runtime (10 minutes) and enough power to be on a par with the Nitros?)

The track I race at doesn't allow LiPos.

I'd be really interested also if decent speed and run times could be achieved with Non Lipo batteries.

I'd be really interested also if decent speed and run times could be achieved with Non Lipo batteries.
The "decent speed" part is my problem so far. The conversion currently has a big brushed motor (power tool motor) and I managed 13 or 14 (not sure now) laps in 6.5 minutes on a pair of old 3300 packs the first time I ran it. The record is 14 laps in 5 minutes. So unless Brushless gives me a big power boost without increased amp draw, it won't cut it.

Based on the packs I ran (I cycled them later to get capacity) I could just go 10 minutes with a good set of 4200s, but I don't know if the brushed motor will last that long without melting. It got real hot.

With a NOVAK 4400 brusless system and 3300's in mine last year I could easily run 10 min at speed comparable to a decent Nitro. I am sure It could not keep up with a high end one though.
With NOVAK 4.5 that is another issue. These cars are ballistic with that motor ESC combo in it. They will over heat unless you put a fan on the ESC and motor.
The hot combo is a very efficient Neu motors 1512 1.5D/F or 1512 2D/F and a Mamba Max ESC. The Nitros can't touch them for speed. Lipos are the ticket though. We are running Max Amps 6000's and getting close to 20 min of run time.
On a smaller track. High powered NiMh would be fine.
There is a very in depth discussion going on at http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=158327
Check it out. But let's keep this discussion going too.
Dan

The hot combo is a very efficient Neu motors 1512 1.5D/F or 1512 2D/F and a Mamba Max ESC. The Nitros can't touch them for speed. Lipos are the ticket though. We are running Max Amps 6000's and getting close to 20 min of run time.Dan
Those were the numbers I wanted to hear. Thank you.

Some people have reported cogging problems with the Mamba Max and the 4-pole NEU motors. What is the secret of avoiding the cogging problem?

What kind of final drive ratios (diff ratio combined with pinion/spur ratio) do people run with the 6.5, Neu 1.5D and 2D motors? I've got a 6.5 handy. Maybe I should try that before stepping up to a Neu.

On the subject of the Neu motors, would a 2.5D help me any with runtime? Or would it just be too slow?

LiPos are not yet legal at my track (it is a club track) and we only change rules once a year. So I have to stick with NiMH for now.

Cogging can be almost 100% eliminated with hard wiring the motor,propper gearing and speed control set up. I run the 1512 2.5d and it is plenty fast.
I only put 1300 to 1700mah back into the battery after a 5 min heat. I currently run 15/46 gearing but after reading alot of the posts I am going to order a 13tooth pinion and give it a try. I have run my car for 20+ min with no issues. The only problem I have had is speedo temps and we are experimrnting with different fans at the moment. i really enjoy the plug and play and not messing with the tuning.

Cogging can be almost 100% eliminated with hard wiring the motor,propper gearing and speed control set up. I run the 1512 2.5d and it is plenty fast.
I only put 1300 to 1700mah back into the battery after a 5 min heat. I currently run 15/46 gearing but after reading alot of the posts I am going to order a 13tooth pinion and give it a try. I have run my car for 20+ min with no issues. The only problem I have had is speedo temps and we are experimrnting with different fans at the moment. i really enjoy the plug and play and not messing with the tuning.
That is really what I wanted to hear: capacity usage from someone using a 2.5D, because that was what I was thinking of getting.

I run a 4s 6000 MaxAmps lipo but you could run it on 2 6 cell 4200 packs. wire ao a connector to run two of youe nimh packs in series for 14.4 volts. There is a guy with a Mugen at one of my local tracks that runs 2 4800 orion packs and he can make 10 min.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/EL8electronicslayoutwithdualfans009.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/EL8005.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/EL8004.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/EL8electronicslayoutwithdualfans003.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s81/dlightcap0101/doug.jpg

I ordered a 1512/2.5DF yesterday. It wasn't in stock so I was told it will be 2-4 weeks before I get it.

Doug, are you concerned about loosing a lot of speed going from a 15T pinion to a 13T? I hope you find out how that works out before my motor comes so I know what to get :cool:

It may slow me down to the same speed as the nitro cars!

Good day

I'm new to this forum, a collector of vintage RC mostly Tamiya and HPI a part time on-road electric racer. I'm looking to get into 1/8 off-road and I like to idea of the 1/8 electric. Out of the chassis that can be converted, I would like to get some advice as to what is the best chassis to run and why so (parts, option parts, durability ) what ever advice you guys can give would be greatly appreciated

I like the Losi 8ight because of the handling characteristics. It handles like an electric 1/10th 4wd buggy. It is less than the other pro level buggies and parts are plentiful and inexpensive. I used to run a Kyosho, it was indestructable but I like the Losi better.

I just bought an 8ight...
I have some new ideas for the conversion we will be trying out.
Dan