Hey guys I need some help. I just started to run some indoor dirt oval.
The late model class at my track is 4wd Touring Cars.. late model body... stock chassis... foam tire.
My car is great on the tacky track but as the track dries during the night my car wont "turn in" but "comes off" the corner well. It is hard to protect the inside line in the main this way.
What general changes does one make for a drier track condition?
Also... what seems best... front diff.... spool or one way?

Never been to your track so it's hard to say but I will try to give you some help. I run pink fronts and silver rears. I groove the tires but found that cross hatch didn't help much, except to chunk tires. I run a TC4 with the stock chassis and no tray. I stood all the shocks straight up and run green springs all the way around. I run the associated med sway bar front and rear. Shock oil 30 in the front, sometimes 35 in the RF and 35 in the rear. Don't spool or lock down any diff, it just breaks gears and doesn't do much for the handling of the car. I would run a one way in the front and get all the toe out of the rear tires. I like the Terra Haute from McAllister with about 4" of side dam, 13" long and no further off the rear than the rear spoiler. Where we race this is the set up on the track record car. Keep in mind we run 6 cell with the Novak 8.5, so we run pretty quick! I have a few more tricks as well but you will need to pm me for those.Hey guys I need some help. I just started to run some indoor dirt oval.
The late model class at my track is 4wd Touring Cars.. late model body... stock chassis... foam tire.
My car is great on the tacky track but as the track dries during the night my car wont "turn in" but "comes off" the corner well. It is hard to protect the inside line in the main this way.
What general changes does one make for a drier track condition?
Also... what seems best... front diff.... spool or one way?

The previous response is a good set up similar to what I run. One thing I found for your situation is to soften the left rear spring. This helped a lot on entry. I run 14.5# springs on all corners except the left rear which is a 9#. This probably has more effect on my car since I do not run swaybars.

we run a wavey track and the juicy suspesion really smoothes the track out, sway bars keep it in check in the corner!

I found its alot to do with the diffs. tighten the front and lossen the rear a touch. that could help a little the only thing you mite get a little push coming off. If you can run rubber put on custom front all the way around it help my car.

Any one use a one way front diff?

Any one use a one way front diff?

Hi! I know this is a old thread but I just started runing a tc3 on dirt oval this season. And I want to know if this (running a one way dif) is better then lock the front dif. my car is loose going in the turns and pushes coming out. I think the push coming out is from me locking the front dif. I thoght a one way dif would help with this. any thoughts from any dirt oval guys.

Hi! I know this is a old thread but I just started runing a tc3 on dirt oval this season. And I want to know if this (running a one way dif) is better then lock the front dif. my car is loose going in the turns and pushes coming out. I think the push coming out is from me locking the front dif. I thoght a one way dif would help with this. any thoughts from any dirt oval guys.

Phil, I'm sure I could tell you this in person but I might forget by then. I thought I read somewhere that a front one-way helps with corner entry a TON. The reason is it's locked under power going forward but free spins when breaking. So when you lift for corner entry, the rear kind of does all the breaking. That might help stabilize your car going in.

I run a FT tc4. Yeah everything sounds good, but I run jaco pinks and I use a compound called STICK ET. We run stock motors. The only problem I have is the bumpy track really beats up the diffs. My other car is a FT tc3 with a spool. It does do pretty good all the way around.I recently got 30mm 30 or 35s nitro shoes in the rear and 28mm same s rate for the front. They seem to hook good. :dude:

Hey guys I need some help. I just started to run some indoor dirt oval.
The late model class at my track is 4wd Touring Cars.. late model body... stock chassis... foam tire.
My car is great on the tacky track but as the track dries during the night my car wont "turn in" but "comes off" the corner well. It is hard to protect the inside line in the main this way.
What general changes does one make for a drier track condition?
Also... what seems best... front diff.... spool or one way?
i had the same problem with my car as the track dried i got a bad push what worked for me was moving my sidedam foward about an 1" to 1.5" i was suprised by the differance it made. with a spool or one-way in the front you really want to watch clipping the tubes 'cause it will break a bevel gear pretty easy. with a diff say your inside tire stops the diff will transfer some energy to the outside tire

Just started running TC3 dirt Late model as well with the same problems as descirbed. hard to get turning, the snapping when it gets around the corner back towards the center. I have Green springs on the left, silver on the right. Thinking about going green all around to help balance the car out. Seem to lean left and rear with the air dam I'm running.

The spool on either end of the car is a bad idea as it tears up gears real bad. You are better off just stiffening up the rear diff instaed of locking it. The one way on dirt really helps the car get in the corners and will make the car seem loose so it takes some getting used to. Pushing off is usually a problem associated with having too much rear to in the car, it comes with 3deg and that's too much. I run zero almost everywhere unless the track is really slippery. Hope this helps

What axles are you guys using so you don't have to cut on the wheels? I have a new set of CW foams and would rather not cut the inside of them since they rub the steering block. I heard the B4 ones work, is this true? Thanks in advance.

On the CW you need the spacer adapter sold by CW. That should solve that problem.

7208
REAR WHEEL SPACER (.125")

Is that the correct part number?

Thanks:thumbsup:

What axles are you guys using so you don't have to cut on the wheels? I have a new set of CW foams and would rather not cut the inside of them since they rub the steering block. I heard the B4 ones work, is this true? Thanks in advance.

associated axle 9598

What axles are you guys using so you don't have to cut on the wheels? I have a new set of CW foams and would rather not cut the inside of them since they rub the steering block. I heard the B4 ones work, is this true? Thanks in advance.

associated axle 9598

So! b4 cdv's will work or do you have to use dog bone type of drive shafts. Or just use the cw .125 spacers.

I'm not sure either, hope to find out real soon so I can race in the next couple of weeks. But I will have to order some parts

I'm not sure either, hope to find out real soon so I can race in the next couple of weeks. But I will have to order some parts

those are b4 b3 t4 t3 cvd axles, mine should be here tomorrow. you need to hurry so you can go to bfg this sat :wave:

the older custom works direct drive intimidator rears(white wheels) work on my tc3. you have to remove the hex. and they bolt right on. The new gbx(black wheels) rub. the offset not the same. The b4 axles must be longer if they work. and you may have to use the cw .125 spacer.

I'll be running some indoor nitro offroad this weekend. Sorry. Maybe the weekend after next. Can't wait to run some oval.