Sombody has probably done this before. A cheap paint stand that can be made in seconds.

List of supplies needed.
-Cardboard box
-Tire/armature tube
-Shoe Goo

1) Take a Armature/tire tube and remove the cap.
2) Shoe goo the cap to the box.
3) Take the arm tube and put a small amount on the end.
4) Set body on tube.

The Shoe Goo is easily cleaned up after you are done painting, just peel it off (Remember, just use a small amount). I found that this makes it easy during different stages of body painting. The tube can stay attached to the body which allows you to remove the car from the box to tape, add decals etc.........

When I was doing customs, I happened to pick up a a pack of the foam blocks used for holding fake flowers and whatever else they stick into those flower displays. Next take old hangers and cut the long straight piece out from the bottom and bend it in a half to make a U. Next, depending on the body you're painting, bend the horsehoe end at a 90 degree angle to the length of the u shape hanger. The bend length will vary based on the body you need to hold. Once that bend is made, you can mount a body to the U and stick it in the foam block and paint away. You can adjust the fit by spreading the hanger a little here and there. After so many jobs, turn the block over and paint somemore. Replace hangers as necessary and if you time it right you can pick up the foam for a little bit of nothing at most of those big craft stores. :) rr

The best way I've found is a hemostat clamped onto the screwpost (with a screw installed first, so you don't crush the post) for T-Jet or clamped to the body mount area for AFX. Some Tyco's are tricky to clamp, but I haven't had one yet that couldn't be done. Put a latex glove on, and hold it in your hand to spray. When done, set it down (carefully) on the edge of a shelf or on a box or scrap piece of wood, etc.

To make a TJET or AFX paint stand. Take one beater chassis of each. Then take an plastic bottle with plastic top. I like old peroxide or rubbing alcohol bottle. Put a hole in the center of the cap . Then take a TJET body mount screw and attach the chassis through the armature hole. Fill the bottle with water and twist on the chassis. Remove the top and mount your body. Twist the cap and body back on and you are ready to paint. I also like that I can hold the cap in my hand when detailing the body, keeps my fingers off of it. Also grat for dipping the body in Future too :) I normally have two bottles set up and about six chassis on the caps.

Roger,

I tried a similar stand, only I used the old JL pullback chassis instead of the Aurora ones. I had plenty of the pullback chassis from repaints I did.

Patrick

Roger,

I tried a similar stand, only I used the old JL pullback chassis instead of the Aurora ones. I had plenty of the pullback chassis from repaints I did.

Patrick

I used a couple of these as well. Just drilled a small hole in their bottom and atached them to a couple of dowel rods about 18" long. Great to paint with, far enough away that no overspray gets on the hands and I have full control spinning body around to get all sides evenly. :thumbsup: rr

Chopsticks from the local chinese restaraunt and sticky poster gum from Staples.

Get a pack of the gummy stuff Staples sells to hang posters with, wad some of it into a ball and stick it on the end of a chopstick. Then mush it into the inside of the roof and.... Voila! Unsticks easily when you're done and the chopsticks are long enough that I don't get paint on my fingers.

Now get a large cardboard box and a couple 4" 120V fans from Radio Shack, wire the fans to a single plug and mount them in holes in the back of the box blowing out. Use a couple nylon pot scrubber pads as filters and hang a few layers of shredded newspaper in the back half of the box and you have a paint box that traps over spray fairly effectively.

Use an X-acto to cut a few small "X" shaped holes in the top of the box and they'll hold the chopsticks fairly snug and more or less straight up for drying the painted body.

MAYHEM,

I use a simular setup...not chopsticks but, Empty Hard Solder tubes with Poster Putty on the ends. Just cut out my box stand to fit the tubes with hobby knife. Lets you move body around alot while painting to get lower edges and custom angled paint jobs also....

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/project3.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/project4.jpg

First post was good idea but, that Willys looks like it is low to the box and bottom edges not getting painted. A longer mounting stick or something may help you out skrcustoms. Thanks for this thread and not trying to damper your cheap idea....cheap is good!

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aww1.jpg

I mean skrcustoms knows how to paint...that is obvious by his gallery pics. Just like to paint mine with a longer post to move body around beeing held by hand and then just put back in the box to hold when done. You can lean a hard plastic body at a steep angle and get nice 2 tone paint jobs this way.



Bob...zilla

I used a couple of these as well. Just drilled a small hole in their bottom and atached them to a couple of dowel rods about 18" long. Great to paint with, far enough away that no overspray gets on the hands and I have full control spinning body around to get all sides evenly. :thumbsup: rr

And when I am done painting I set the dowel in a jar until the paint is dry...

Scott

Like the longer tubes Mr Zilla. Makes sense. I'll give it a try.

Thanks

So many ways to skin a cat.

Use the medium bore coathangers m'self. Buck the hook off with some pliers and straighten it out. Roll a base/bottom around like an electric range element. Bring a whip up from the center. Taper the end to slip into a screw post.

Bend the top into bracket to fit the tabs for the snap on bods. Got a couple with gator clips on the end for special needs jobs. Just scrunch the clip to the stand with your pliers.

Easily held in your hand. No tape or putty wads required. They sit nicely by themselves and are quickly taped to the table if you fell the need for extra stability. LOL

The bonus is you can bend and rebend to suit your whims. Get a fat bundle at garage sales for fiddy cent. In the time it took to write this I could've made a half dozen.

For liquid styrene sprays I still like to use the helping hands hobby clamp for it's simple adjustability and weighted base.

Oooooh almost forgot....If you look at the Bug in post #8 you can see the top where the spare tire goes has a "blob" of poster Putty. This is to keep the paint from going on the spot that later will have a glued piece...not that ugly piece that JL offered!

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/all3.jpg

Another example of this putty paint block is one I did on my White VW Thing. Didn't want to paint all the interior detail again soooooo, just put poster putty down. Then carefully did any touch up on the edges with flat black....Tricks...I got tricks! They're not just for kids anymore. lol

The yellow glow....That is toxic waste that got dumped into my white paint mix....really it is! ;)

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/awill1.jpg

Here is a better picture of my Willys paint fade. The front has red also but, is hard to see in picture because of the glare from the light.

Bob...zilla

Here's my cheap paint stand.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2007-08%20Slots/08-18-07GulfJ-Car101.jpg

A piece of pine with a dowel screwed to it. I use a piece of rolled back duct tape to hold the car bodies on. I used to have a chassis on it along with a few others, but that was a pain. The tape works great for any car I paint, HO and 1/43rd, and 1/24th.