can't we get slots like this?

http://www.jlcollector.com/promo/liber69.jpg

I don't mind customizing, but if a diecast can be done like this. Why not slots?
And there's many more. Just wondering. :drunk: rr

cost VS volume?

Not knowing the process, but wouldn't it be possible to do both at the same time as far as bods/tires/wheels and the just put them on the right chassis? Not an expert in this field, but there seems to be some common traits between these two to get a better return on your investment if possible. :freak: Dave

Not sure if it's the correct year, but AW can reissue the F&F Camaro with a similiar paint scheme.

can't we get slots like this?

http://www.jlcollector.com/promo/liber69.jpg

I don't mind customizing, but if a diecast can be done like this. Why not slots?
And there's many more. Just wondering. :drunk: rr

Are you referring to the tires & rims, body details, or . . . ?

'doba

Are you referring to the tires & rims, body details, or . . . ?

'doba

doba,
The whole kit and kaboodle. rr

Nurora and even Model Motoring were making some RTR bodies this nice (IMHO). Trouble is they never cranked out cars for very long until there was a problem and then basically no new products. I still hold out hope that one of these companies (or another new one) gets back in the game. Not gonna hold my breath though. Getting kind of used to painting my own. nd

Agreed rr, Sure would like to see something where the design is carefully thought through to the point that when the body is mated to the chassis they relate to one another in some fashion other a dagwood sandwich.

Baloney hangin' out all over!

I think the biggest problem for designers is getting the powerplant deep enough into the body, keeping the wheel to fender relationship in proportion, and of course keeping the drive from binding.

With the original pancake chassis the dilemma is usually a height/gearplate issue and the axle height. With the Basket handle rigs, and most inlines the problem always seems to be width.

I mostly build t-jet stuff cuz I prefer the smaller scale and leave most of my other stuff's bodywork as is. The axle height of the pancakes leaves a huge chassis air gap when you start to increase wheel tire diameter. Conversely if you decrease tire diameter the airgap closes and the fenderlip clearance opens proportionally.

If you post shave and increase tire diameter the meat above the fender lip decreases pretty quick and you wind up with a rear that looks like an AFX Nomad where the lip extends well into the deco molding on the fender. Driven gear to rear post, trunk, and rear glass clearance get close in a hurry as does the hood and front glass. Next thing you know the pick up windows are wacking the front valence. Rick's (ParkRNDL), lowering how to's in the archives are a great study in what your up against.

The rear drop axle works wonders but it too has limitations in that unless you shave the well radius, over size wheels and tires have to be narrowed to fit under a stock fender. As soon as you start to narrow stuff handling suffers measureably and with sticky silicones your catching the rail in the corners causing outside roll overs and twitchy response coming out of the turn.

I also play a lot with pick up shoes. Total slams recieve the AFX ski, a halfslam can get buy with a stock AFX stepped shoe, a rear drop with a stock front gets a slotech shoe or what I call a half step, Anything above that gets a standard shoe. Bear in mind that there are exceptions depending on tire profiles. Just my starting points.

Blah blah blah... LOL. It all boils down to a coupla chassis designs have to fit all. So unlike the 1:1 world where the chassis and coachwork are generally designed in sync. Slot designers start with one hand tied behind their backs.

I'd be happy just to see that level of detailing and rim/tire combos that look right.

I'd be happy just to see that level of detailing and rim/tire combos that look right.

Heck, I'd settle for the rim/tire combo alone. :freak:

:) rr