Tot 904 looks great! I'm gonna have to find another one to give that treatment to. :thumbsup:

All 3 .... way cool! :thumbsup: nd

bill - awesome job man!! :thumbsup:

Wes

Bill,

Thanks for posting these fun to look at pics. I am having lots of fun looking. Yippee!

Just looking at that beautiful Blue 904 is just Melting my brain...Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah it hurts. Gotta get to mine someday! Can anyone watch our kids for a month. LOL

Bob...zilla

All 3 .... way cool! :thumbsup: nd

Nuther: Aw shucks man... They were off the rack classics already...just added little spit and polish.

Leonard: The bulk of the mods were on the chassis in the form of front/rear drop axles and wheel voodoo. Other than lightly evening up the ragged factory wells and takin' some skin off the posts the body is unchanged.

Wes: Thanx!

Roger: Thanx for the tip! I'll give it another go down the road.

Bobzilla: The ole 904's are poo pooed by some folks...but they are still reasonably priced, and have pretty lines with a little encouragement. This bod design is very durable and from what I can see has stood the ravages of time.

This one never was mine anyway. It's is goin ba-bye..."Oh of course it is!" Cuz I really like how this one turned out....snivel...wimper...whine...LOL! There will definately be another.

Leonard: The bulk of the mods were on the chassis in the form of front/rear drop axles and wheel voodoo. Other than lightly evening up the ragged factory wells and takin' some skin off the posts the body is unchanged.
.

I'm dyin' to see how you did the rear. I got a couple cars I'd like to give the same treatment. :thumbsup:

Bill,
Sure they were already classics.....but if anyone could do that voodoo that you do.....Epay would be full of them! These are truely beautiful slot cars, hey! :thumbsup:

Here's sumthin ya dont see every day.

This black speedline had seen better days, but it was on it's original chassis with interior.

Customer wants it repaired and converted to t-jet.

The jagged post edges get touched up first. A snip from a Black Elva front spoiler was used for the graft. It had the approximate right shape from the gitgo. The little microscopic "A" pillar grafts are darn near impossible to preshape so I always search for something with the correct angles to start with.

The full side view pic was taken after the bonds had been filed and reskimmed.

Typically the front screw post is short and the rear is waaaaay long. Looks like I'll take a slice off the rear post and move it to the front post to level the ride.

Entire body recieved a heavy coat of Testors to rejuvenate some shine and start filling the millions of nicks and scratches. This car had been enjoyed. The play wear is massive but other than the busted pillar and a rear tailight "scrape-ectomy"; no major damage save for a few pock marks. Probably start with 600 to cut the pocks out and be able to move to 1200 fairly quickly.

Some kid ran the hell outta this car, but she stood it well...a diamond in the rough. I gotta get one of these!

Here's sumthin ya dont see every day.

This black speedline had seen better days, but it was on it's original chassis with interior.

Customer wants it repaired and converted to t-jet.

The jagged post edges get touched up first. A snip from a Black Elva front spoiler was used for the graft. It had the approximate right shape from the gitgo. The little microscopic "A" pillar grafts are darn near impossible to preshape so I always search for something with the correct angles to start with.

The full side view pic was taken after the bonds had been filed and reskimmed.

Typically the front screw post is short and the rear is waaaaay long. Looks like I'll take a slice off the rear post and move it to the front post to level the ride.

Entire body recieved a heavy coat of Testors to rejuvenate some shine and start filling the millions of nicks and scratches. This car had been enjoyed. The play wear is massive but other than the busted pillar and a rear tailight "scrape-ectomy"; no major damage save for a few pock marks. Probably start with 600 to cut the pocks out and be able to move to 1200 fairly quickly.

Some kid ran the hell outta this car, but she stood it well...a diamond in the rough. I gotta get one of these!

$3.00 fleabay find
$2.00 shipping cross country
Getting back a showcase car...........priceless
Love ya Bill, thanks again

Bill



All I can say is your work and craftsmanship are Awesome! You are one very talented person.

$3.00 fleabay find
$2.00 shipping cross country
Getting back a showcase car...........priceless
Love ya Bill, thanks again

Did I imply that you were getting this car back? :devil:

I love a good hostage situation! ...send in the negotiating team. :p

...but seriously Ed...I get to play with some very cool 'lil toys so it's a pleasure.

41 Willy's: Thanks for the kind words...truthfully the real credit goes to Mike Vitale, MEV, who pioneered many of the basic plastic repair techniques that I use. It's easy to follow big footprints. ;)

Finished a couple this week.

Both the blue Splitty and the Mach 1 were A pillar jobs. The Vette was marred from stem to stern with stress marks as well. They were toasted out in the usual Bic lighter fashion. Took several attempts to get them out as the Splitty has a very thick body. They both polished up nicely, especially the Vette. Although not perfect, considering it was boot stomped lump it turned out pretty good.

Dug out a few of my own for a change and made some minor touches. Had a decent tuffy Bug but no serviceable bumpers. The chassis was a nice but forgotten spare from the resto box. Somehow I happened to put the two together yesterday...duh... obviously I got too much stuff! Always hated Bug bumpers anyway, 1:1 or scale. A front post spacer was added. I'll dress it out later in the week and adjust the final front ride height.

The tuffy Willys was always one of my favs, had it back in the day. A victim of an Ebay "fubar screwpost" nondisclousure. I finally got around to it...two years later. The poststs were porked out with hairline cracks. In this situation the post is pre-wet internally with solvent and successive drops of goop are used to flesh out the missing material. Air bubbles are worked out with a needle. The following day the semi setup post is vented by dipping a needle in solvent and a pilot/vent hole is worked in. The solvent prevents the needle from sticking and pulling out the uncured core as you create the vent. This little step really helps to get a good cure out on deep screw post fills.

As with my Bug, I'll get back to my Willys later. Thanks for looking! :wave:

You've posted post magic again, Bill!
Screw posts, glass posts...all perfect! (I have some of my very own that Bill has repaired)

Man, those cars look great, hey! :thumbsup:

Thanks for the "howdadoit" on screwpost repair!

Truthfully Joe I've taken all the magic out of the post repair part of the program.

Broke it down to two groups: Those with a good concentric outsides and minor cracks are filled in the manner like the Willys above.

The other being the out and out amputation and replacement method for posts that look like Bugs Bunny stuck his finger in the end of the gun...then Yosemitie Sam pulled the trigger! The direct replacement is a more reliable fix and about eight hundred times quicker and easier.

The only exception being the ultra rare cars where a donor post may not be available.
In most cases the "Yosemitie Sam screw post" often has wood dope, CA, or god knows what form of gooberschlobber in the cracks and crannies of the breaks.
Any foreign object will cause the goop to not wick/weld properly, this making an weak bond. I use the taper and cup technique where the post is tapered to fit a cup in the remnant post. The taper provides more surface area for a strong bond and allows some fidgeting room to get it straight.

In the case of the bug, where a slight addition is needed, the flat but joint is reliable enough.

Hey, I'm new here. I'm looking for something and maybe you can help. Xlerators had these really neat low profile slicks, right before Aurora came out with the wider AFX slicks. The rim diameter was the same as the AFX fronts, but on the AFX rims, there's a tiny plastic nub that keeps the rim away from the chassis. This nub isn't there on the XL rim. I've heard that Aurora may have used these up on the AFX tractor trailers, but don't collect these so I can't verify that. Anyway, I've been cutting off that nub on the AFX rims and usig AW front tires for this, but if I could get a better quality rubber, I'd rather get those. I don't know if this is your thing or not, but if you could pass this message on to whoever you think might have what I need, that'd be great. I don't know where I'm supposed to leave my email address, so I'll wait for your reply first. Thak you much.

Welcome to HT! Please remember re-introduce yourself in our New Member Introduction thread.

The tire you seek is more than likely the "PVT lowpro" tire. (Penn Valley Tire)

I too experimented with the Xcelerator rims...once upon a time. While they are somewhat representative of a slot dish rim they left me wanting more. They have vitually no detail accents and physically they have a very thin cross section in the central hub area. I personally began modifying and using the AFX Ansen, specifically the front version that came on the four gear chassis. I just call them "baby ansens". Check Slot Car Central out ....Bob has them.