Looking for a good temperature reading instrument, want to start looking at the temp of my brushless motors when they come off the track. Do not want to spend a fortune but I know you get what you pay for. What are you guys using? and what do you recomend? Thanks

here are a few good ones that will not break you

http://www.raytek-northamerica.com/cat.html?cat_id=2.3.5

Here's more: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=infrared+temp+&FVPROFIL=++

Thanks

I'm using the Duratrax one, but later saw the same thing (in a different color case) at Harbor Freight Tools for $9.95.

Gotta love Harbor Freight.

So what's the ideal operating temperature range for a brushless?

Novak systems are set to shut down at 175 (more or less), so it's best to keep them below 170. Some of the readings people are getting with the new "pro series" motors are strange. The ends of the motor read out WAAAAY different from the center section (my older ones don't do this). It's probably best to read the aluminum end cap at the wired end, since this is where the temp. sensor is.

Novak systems are set to shut down at 175 (more or less), so it's best to keep them below 170. Some of the readings people are getting with the new "pro series" motors are strange. The ends of the motor read out WAAAAY different from the center section (my older ones don't do this). It's probably best to read the aluminum end cap at the wired end, since this is where the temp. sensor is.

Thanks for the info and advice.

If you choose to read on the silver aluminum, put a piece of black electrical tape there first. IR temp devices are set to .95 emmissivity which means they do not like light colored surfaces. It may be the reason you are seing a difference between the areas of the motor. I use a very high end temp gun, (We make them) and there is a difference between silver and a dark color.

Here is another idea, a friend used and temperature sensor from the nitro car.
just looped the lead around the motor and stick the little monitor on the chassis. works good

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUH2&P=SM

that on-board device is overa half an ounce, I am already having weight problems. Plus some sanctioning oganizations do NOT allow on-board data recording devices and it might not be allowed.

Venom makes very nice stuff and it’s not considered to be any type of telemetry monitoring device.

If you choose to read on the silver aluminum, put a piece of black electrical tape there first. IR temp devices are set to .95 emmissivity which means they do not like light colored surfaces. It may be the reason you are seing a difference between the areas of the motor. I use a very high end temp gun, (We make them) and there is a difference between silver and a dark color.
Good point. I've set my IR temp gun at 77 emissivity (the suggested value for anodized aluminum) and it reads all sections of my motors as approximately the same. (I also compared it with t thermocouple type unit I borrowed from work.)I'll bet the other guys haven't changed their setting from the default value. I'll have to check one of the Pro Series motors with my unit to see if they still show different values.
I also noticed that the $10 unit from Harbor Freight apparently doesn't have adjustable emissivity. I guess that's what the extra 10 bucks gets you from Duratrax.

I don't see how a 1/2 ounce is going to kill you!!
The CW car with a 10.5 and 3800 lipo pack with the temp sensor and a personal transponder was still light, around 2.5 to 3 oz lighter than a 4 cell car

I better weigh my car again, have a GTB with the added two cell LIPO cut-off module and a Futaba reciever, plus a personal Transponder and was OVER weight the last time I checked it? 13.5 motor CW Aggressor Solid. don't remember which body was on it when I put it on the scale? Just weighed the car, setting it up for the ARCOR stock class with a NEW NOVAK motor, am assuming it will weigh about the same as the 13.5's I now have (that's what is in the car now) with foams the ARCOR class weight will be 38 oz., guess they are figuring on the lighter LIPOs. SO I am 2 7/8 over already? (40.7/8 oz w/COT body)

i bet you are using CAPS and were are using Foams!!

http://www.tempgun.com Cheap to expensive

Its not a temp gun, but I use a color changing temp sticker from CRC on the center band of the motor. It reads 140 ~ 190.

I also use a durtrax temp gun.

the Duratrax temp gun is what I have been using and I really like it,
I have also used the Radio Shack temp gun which seems to also work pretty well.

the Duratrax temp gun is what I have been using and I really like it,
I have also use the Radio Shack temp gun which seems to also work pretty well.
i like my aswell :thumbsup:

If you want the best, use what the Nextel Cup and many other forms of racing use. Get one from www.LongacreRacing.com (http://www.LongacreRacing.com) They are accurate to 1/10th of a degree. If you call, Ask for Gary Lewis 2006 NASCAR ELITE TOURING DIVISION CHAMP & 2007 ARCA Late Model Challenge Series Champ.

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