Here's a couple hot off the workbench. nd :dude:

Nice Work Nuther Dave, keep em coming they are inspiring me to read the camera manual lol...


Dave

Hey ND, Both beautiful cars. Nice to see them posted through your build process. :thumbsup:

I like the suspense between episodes. Helps keep us all tuned in. ;)

You've been building steady lately, how many cars did you build in the last two months? Like about ten or sumthin? :p :p

Nice work man!! keep it coming!! :thumbsup:

Wes

They are....awsome.....inspiring......sweet....beautifu l......COOL! :thumbsup:

I love them, ND!

nd,

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

ofd

I seem to work in short bursts this year. These were a couple nekkeds that just ruthlessly taunted me everytime I opened the little drawer they were in. I'm really trying to follow through on my "gotta do" list and going in order of receipt. These otherwise "vanilla" bods just needed a little attention paid to them. Never cared for the "filled-in" vent windows on these 2 JL's and I know the Grand Sport is "supposed" to have the fender flares, but I just never cared for them too much either. I knew this color for the GS was what I wanted, but actually the Fairlane got sprayed about three other different colors before it ended up this Tamiya Coral Blue. The Fairlane had 2 coats of Semi-gloss clear to protect the black roof from road rashes and still allow it to look like a vinyl top should. The rest of the body was Futured (the GS was all coated with just Future). Decals were all culled from Autoworld sheets and various sheets for larger scale cars selectively snipped/mixed/ and matched. Feels good to cross these two off the list. Next up are some dirt track cars, but that will not be until the August timeframe. nuther dave

O/T: Getting our floors sanded in most of the house. Anybody ever do this? I have time off just before the job is scheduled to be done and some painting needs to be done. Any reason why I can't get a head start on the paint while the rooms are cleared and when it doesn't really matter if any stray splatters happen?? I mean it's not mandatory to paint the walls after the sanding is it??

I would paint what I could before they sand the floors makes for less clean up for you, and if you splatter or spill paint after the finish it sorta takes away the newness having to clean up your newly finished floors.
Andy

I wouldn't paint the baseboards before sanding, lest you want that new soft paint marked up, with dust imbedded in it.

As good a painter as you are, nuther dave, I can't imagine any stray spatters! When the TM or (especially) my daughter paints I tape an old bedsheet down to mask, at least when I catch it before they start. Otherwise it's trouble!

hey, if you paint, make darn sure the paint is very very dry before they sand, otherwise you will end up with dust embedded in your newly painted walls. also realize that whatever paint you use ought to be water resistant, as after sanding floors you need to wipe down all the surfaces in the house (floors, walls, etc) to remove the dust.

we just paid to have the floors redone in our house before we put it on the market (sold in 2 days), and they came out really nice

I appreciate the O/T info. Maybe I'll get on the paint a little earlier than I planned, to make sure it's good and dry. Re-touch the base boards eh?... aaaarg, there's always something. BUT, it's better than this lumpy old carpet. :drunk:

Many thanks HT gang.:thumbsup:This is more than your average slot board. hmmm...wonder if Testor's comes in gallons?

dave

Well I look at it this way. To do hard wood floors correctly the trim should be popped off anyway.

If you plan to leave the trim and cut around it; back mask with 2'' tape. Sorta depends on what application method is used. Old school lambs wool head, long bristled horse hair brush, or low pressure sprayer, will dictate how high you have to mask. Remember to beat up the applicator or brush to remove ant stray fuzzies or horse hairs that WILL fall out and piss you off! Also keep in mind that if you really hammer the tape down it can rip up the finish and mottle your baseboards especially with old varnishes, lacquers and even poorly prepped latexes. Your not vacuum sealing the trim, just make a protective barrier. Just a light tough along the bottom will do it and an occasional touch along the top to secure it every few feet. Dont just Wang Chung it it rip the mask off when your done! Move carefully and slowly as you pull the mask off. I usually spring for the good no "booboo" low tack tape.

Chem strip works great and cuts the dust factor but increases the hazmat factor. It also works great on some of the ancient turpentine based finishes that can gum out your paper and jack the materials bill fast. Usually a coupla passes with the sander after chem strip will be all you need and you dont have to start at 36 grit and work your way up. LOL. Chem strip works great for getting in the corners that the Toe Edger (the drum sanders companion in crime) misses. If you dont you'll have dark little pie wedges in your corners, which is also why you pull the base boards so you dont have a darker stripe abutting the base boards. For heavily water damaged, stained, or "tigered" areas like traffic lanes and thresholds use a bleaching agent prior to any filler or finish. Sometimes it takes a coupla applications and is never guaranteed.

You didnt mention whether your using polyurethane, two part epoxy or water base. Like all open wood products a thinner grainraising coat and a knock down are mandatory for a good smooth base for the succeeding oil/solvent based finishes. IMHO water base finishes suck, although they're really pushing that stuff these days. I will concede that the quality starting to look a little better, but it's never been my first choice. You have to have some experience in order to move with some allegro with the 2 part epoxy type finishes. I'm an old school polyurethane gym finish kind of guy. It's durable, rookie friendly and forgiving. I also think it's easier to patch or blend down the road should the need to repair arise. Unfortunatly for some who are easily offened in the olfactory department it is pretty stinky for a week or so after. You also didnt mention if your going high gloss or satin sheen.

Remember that the finishes are somewhat self leveling so you have to fill or dough up any cracks or areas that will leak or wick the finish below grade and leave depressions in the finish when cured out. This is common practice with older hagaard floors. The dough would be applied prior to the raising coat and sanded off.

You also didnt mention which sander is to be used. The drum sander must be kept moving at all times or you'll wind up with random troughs or waves in the finish where you dilly dallyed with the drum sander. I personally dont care for the big square jitter bug sanders cuz the can really cross grain the wood in the nastier early grits and you have to bust ass later in the finer grits to get the scratches out.

Way more than you wanted to know Dave but I thought I'd throw out two bucks instead of two cents. ;)

So, Which would you rather do? Deal with hardened floor finish splatter on your base boards or keep a damp sponge mop and or wet towels on hand to mop a little latex house paint splatter? I usually just get the cheasy 50cent thin plastic drops and mask the whole floor if I'm really worried about it. If you lay the thin plastic drops and use a regular tarp or canvas over that you'll have minimal clean up.

BTW. Testors by the gallon is called Methyl Ethyl Ketone AKA: MEK. The clorinated solvents (non flammable) like a gel chem strip are my choice rather than a high flash solvent.

looks good but i cant vouch for durability

Nicely done up slot cars. Looks like a bunch of fun to run.

I know nothing about floors except for that wood is going to be way better looking than carpet, Bob

looks good but i cant vouch for durability


Stop by My place next week, put the wifes newest project in the living room and I"ll even give ya a slot car or two lol...


Dave

Although I could save some dough doing it myself, I'm bowing to a floor guy to do it. He's charging me $1.75 a square foot including stain and 3 coats of Fabulon. Young guy works for his uncle doing floors and side work like this on his own. Around here most outfits charge a minimum $5.oo a foot. He just finished my neighbor's floors and his work is great. We are in a 1/2 duplex condo and they live in the other half. This is the only reason I'd let somebody do it... I have seen with my own eyes what he can do. The neighbors was never carpeted and "had" a very dark stain and about 30 years of poly, wax, poly, wax etc. It's now a light-medium color and probably never looked this good. Mine's a walk in the park for him. Never stained and almost rubbed naked from all the years of carpet on top of it. I'm a self painter though that is something I can't justify paying for. I've been told that I'm a good painter, but I think that is the old Tom Sawyer painting the fence trick!!!... nd

BTW: Thanks for looking at my customs Bob and friends... I guess I hijacked my own thread!!!

The old remodeling saying is start from top to bottom. paint the walls (do not us your air brush or future on the walls, lol) first.

But how's about a few contingency sponsor decals?? The Hurst Shift living room? The Moon Eyes staircase? The STP hallway?.... No ?.... (dave says as his wife is calmly choosing a suitable frying pan to knock him out with) lol. :p

But how's about a few contingency sponsor decals?? The Hurst Shift living room? The Moon Eyes staircase? The STP hallway?.... No ?.... (dave says as his wife is calmly choosing a suitable frying pan to knock him out with) lol. :p

ND you left out "Good Year" throw rugs and Wainescotting. :p

....(dave says as his wife is calmly choosing a suitable frying pan to knock him out with) lol. :p

Always use the cast iron skillet. If you're gonna do something, do it right.

But how's about a few contingency sponsor decals?? The Hurst Shift living room? The Moon Eyes staircase? The STP hallway?

tjd241,

Forgot to mention earlier that the gray Willy's in your gallery is nice eye candy also. It is clean and smooth with the perfect just leave good enough alone look. So many cool slot cars and so little time.

Mooneyes stairway!!!! I have put a chrome ceiling fan with black blades and large yellow circle Mooneyes on the blades in my basement slot car room along with Mooneyes bar stools. Mooneyes rock and the Hurst Shifter living room would be perfect. Go for it. :cool:

Some day will add a few Rat Fink bar stools but, need my overtime back first. New Construction is slow in Nebraska right now.

On my last vehicle there was even a Mooneyes sticker on my gas cap. Oooooh yeah I have a Mooneyes Tattoo also. Go Moon! :) :)

That gray Willy's just says drive me, Bob

Bob... Sorry to say that grey Willys didn't last long all neckked like the pic in my album. To tell you honestly, I kind of liked it plain too. That was another "busy period" and it got painted though. :( ... I've since detailed another similar bod to run against it too. Hope you like this version as it sits now. I posted it on this thread below. nd

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=37133

Bob... Sorry to say that grey Willys didn't last long all neckked like the pic in my album. To tell you honestly, I kind of liked it plain too. That was another "busy period" and it got painted though. :( ... I've since detailed another similar bod to run against it too. Hope you like this version as it sits now. I posted it on this thread below. nd

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=37133

Thanks for the link tjd241,

I like it all done up alot. Don't get rid of the pic in your gallery till I make one up for myself. Those pipes and detail look great!
Vroooooooooooooooom baby! Race mono a mono, side by side. I'm takin' you out steel rubbin' bumper bumpin' race cars. Cool! :cool:

Bob