Novak began shipping the new XBR/EX Sport systems (http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/ex_systems/index.html) this week. Some of the motors (w/ bonded rotors) began shipping 2 weeks ago, but the new XBRs and systems were just released.

The XBR should sell for $120.00, the EX motor $60 and the system @ $180.00. The XBR is also compatible with the new SS Pro motors (w/ sintered rotors), although Novak will not be offering systems featuring this combination.

The XBR features built-in lipo cut-off circuitry and is compatible with all Novak 8.5T and above motors (including the early version 4300's and 5800's.)

Cool, I think this will be a great combo and a great entry...

Since the ESC has the lipo cutoff, I have to assume that this will be a great ESC to use in a LIPO/10.5 type of class...which is BALLISTIC on any oval track.

i dont mean to sound like a cave man but thats what i feel like when i here teck talk about lipo's. what is " cutoff circuit " mean exactly when you talk about lipo batteries

i dont mean to sound like a cave man but thats what i feel like when i here teck talk about lipo's. what is " cutoff circuit " mean exactly when you talk about lipo batteries

Built-in Li-Po Cut-Off Circuitry monitors the vehicle’s Lithium Polymer battery pack’s voltage, and prevents the batteries from going below the critical safety voltage level (6.25 volts).

thanks for the reply on the cut-off voltage w/lipo's . I havnt raced my oval pan in a few years, I stopped when my local club went to all brushless and now i got some catching up to do ..THANKS AGAIN

what he wasnt really clear on, is if your lipo batt goes below that voltage, you toss it in the garbage and get a new battery !!

What I'm not clear on with the LIPO min. voltage is the phrase "May DAMAGE your Battery"

Does this mean...it might not once or twice...or is it a gaurantee that if the voltage drops...the battery is JUNK?

I'd rather NOT find out...but at the same time - I don't want to have it happen and get all freaky cause it did...and find there's nothing wrong with the pack...

I found more info in Novak's description of the Smart Stop modules, but that info did not really explain the "safety level" or potential damage to the lipos:

Now users of all models and brands of ESCs can appreciate and enjoy the advantages of Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) battery packs without the fear of damaging the cells. The Smart-Stop Li-Po Cut-Off Module will monitor your Li-Po battery pack voltage and prevent the batteries from going below the critical safety voltage level. This is achieved using a combination of throttle interruption and a visual cue from the included ultra-bright blue LED. The Smart-Stop Modules are available for 2-cell (#5470), 3-cell (#5472), or 4-cell (#5471) Li-Po battery packs and can be used with any brand brushed or brushless speed control for car, boat, or air applications.

For racers and bashers alike, the Smart-Stop Module will prevent your vehicle from draining your Li-Po packs below their safety level. The Smart-Stop Module connects between the receiver and speed control, and is easily set up with a One-Touch Set-Up button to learn the ESC’s settings for accurate and complete control. The Smart-Stop Module will interrupt the ESC’s throttle operation with short periods of throttle blipping. This is a warning that the Li-Po battery voltage safety level is approaching, giving the user a chance to bring in the vehicle. In addition, the remotely-mounted, ultra-bright blue LED will begin to flash, giving a clear visual cue that it is time to stop the vehicle. If the vehicle is run beyond this warning period, the Smart-Stop Module will bring the motor to neutral while leaving full steering servo control.

I'll check with Adnan and post a reply as available.

What I'm not clear on with the LIPO min. voltage is the phrase "May DAMAGE your Battery"

Does this mean...it might not once or twice...or is it a gaurantee that if the voltage drops...the battery is JUNK?

I'd rather NOT find out...but at the same time - I don't want to have it happen and get all freaky cause it did...and find there's nothing wrong with the pack... I am pretty sure from what I have been reading that if your voltage drops below the minimum (6.25) you should dispose of the battery properly, it is toast. I just purchased an Orion Carbon 2-cell LIPO and also bought the NOVAK module so I wouldn't accidentally trash my new battery, cheap insurance, and since the battery is lighter than the 4-cel nims the extra weight shouldn't be a problem. Ralf

...I know this WILL be an issue as OVAL racing moves to LIPO - WE KNOW no matter how much we warn, advise, etc....somebody WILL be draining that extra little bit from their battery - and throw away the battery IF they think it will WIN them a race...

From what I understand from reading about lipos on different threads and web sites it shouldn't be an issue. Unless you are racing in some kind of enduro there should be plenty of voltage for a 4-5 minute race unless you didn't fully charge your battery. The real problem would probably be in practice when you might loose track of your time on the track and run the battery down too far. IMO Ralf

Most of the LiPo battery companies out there tell you not to let the voltage drop below 3V per cell. This is why most of the LiPo cut-off devices/ESCs are set slightly above 3V. As long as you use the cutoff (or just don't run it until the car is barely moving), you should be fine. I ran a 5.5 turn Novak brushless in a touring car with a 3800mAh LiPo and still had plenty of battery left.

All I can say is WOW to Novak.. I put the XBR 13.5 in my B4 buggy with an Orion 3200 Lipo pack and am kicking the 19T 4200 battery guys butts. So far I have practiced with them and on one charge I have ran with them through 2 or their 4200's and have had plenty of battery left. The speed doesn't drop off and it is much smoother on take off coming out of the corners. We are running on a 310 ft driving lane tri-oval dirt track. I'm 58 years old and am switching all my electric cars and trucks to brushless lipo. Soooooooooo much easier. Now I have time to stand around and talk to the guys instead of wrenching on the motors and charging batteries all the time.. Much more enjoyable. This is just my two cents.

BadButch Racing

Welcome to the future! :)

What would be a performance difference from an XBR speedo,versus a GTb in a racing enviorment?

What would be a performance difference from an XBR speedo,versus a GTb in a racing enviorment?

Send an e-mail to charlie@teamnovak.com -----probably need to explain your application and set-up.

I'm thinking about going lipo. However, safety is my first priority. So Iv'e been looking at the Novak cut-off. When I read the instructions it sound pretty clear. However, when I look at the actual Novak set-up, I see the plug that I believe is for the receiver and two additional Pos. and Neg wires along with the alert light. Can somone spell it out for me on how they are installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The red and black wires are to be soldered to the ESC. This is how it detects current flow. I had one on my GTX and it never came on because I never took the Lipo that low in racing conditions. I never used more than half of the Lipo capacity in a 6 minute race. This was on carpet oval with 19 turn mod motor. Very demanding on battery but as I said it never got to cutoff.

what he wasnt really clear on, is if your lipo batt goes below that voltage, you toss it in the garbage and get a new battery !!

So to be VERY clear - you NEVER toss a LiPo into the garbage. If the case splits and they get wet they will ignite in a rather spectacular fashion and can cause dreadful burns and could even start a major fire at a landfill site - PLEASE DISPOSE OF DEAD LiPos RESPONSIBLY.

:)

I think he knows how to dispose of a battery.

So the ones delivered prior to this date did not have LIPO Cutoff.............

All XBRs had the cutoff installed. I was answering the question about how you installed the external cut off.

I am about to drop an XBR and 13.5 EX in my B4 as you did. How did you find the gearing to compare to a stock motor? More or less pinion teeth? I don't want to melt down the motor the first practice. Thanks.