I purchased a WCM sprint off e-bay that was set up with radio and servos.The servos on the steering are 3003s ( don't think these are correct) and throttle is same.The problem I have is the car does not steer well at all (maybe a 40 acre field) the front tires only turn maybe 5 degrees right to left,I have turned the little screws on the radio, but did not help and I don't have a six year old kid to help so thats why I'm asking for help from anyone who thinks they may know how to help.(I'm thinkin radio) Don't know any 1/4 scalers down here in central Fla. And if anyone knows of 1/4 tracks down here please let me know.I built my own red clay track in my side yard and have won every race I have run in LOL.LOL.

Thanks1

ib,

You are right, the servos you have are too weak to be reliable. I would use a couple futaba s3305 servos. These are inexpensive and will do the trick. Another area to lookat on the wcm is the slider bar. Check to see if it is bent. Also check to see if there is enough slack in the to studded screws holding it in place. It may help to take thr front end down completely and check it all. This looks like a lot of parts, but lying them out in order will help go back together. Never over tightened any of the parts and do not to use (RED) locktight...blue is best. It never hurts to tear a chassi down just to learn where things go back. You do this enough and everything will fall into place.

Now the radio.. The Dual rate maybe set low. It is usually located on the handle just above your thumb. It should also have end points adjustments( EPA ). The higher the percentage the more the steering will turn. On early Futaba radios you can find these setting behind the little door. On newer radios it will need to be programed in the digital screen.

Depending on your radio, we maybe able to come up with a manual.

Tell us more of what you have and we can go from there.

Tim

I purchased a WCM sprint off e-bay that was set up with radio and servos.The servos on the steering are 3003s ( don't think these are correct) and throttle is same.The problem I have is the car does not steer well at all (maybe a 40 acre field) the front tires only turn maybe 5 degrees right to left,I have turned the little screws on the radio, but did not help and I don't have a six year old kid to help so thats why I'm asking for help from anyone who thinks they may know how to help.(I'm thinkin radio) Don't know any 1/4 scalers down here in central Fla. And if anyone knows of 1/4 tracks down here please let me know.I built my own red clay track in my side yard and have won every race I have run in LOL.LOL.

Thanks1
I agree with nitrowolf on all but one point. I use and recommend using blue locktite on every nut and bolt. It is a safety issue for one and if not used it will come loose, trust me on this. I've been at it 12 years now. The 3305 is an excellent choice for the steering and the throttle as it puts out about 100 oz. of torque. They are not expensive and they deliver the required amount of torque for both steering and throttle, be carefull on the end points as if not set proper you will stall the servo and possibly damage it. If you take the tie rods loose at the spindle you can then learn if the heim joints on the spindle are binding or if the slider is binding. If the slider is bent or over tightened it will bind. If I can be of any more help call me at 937-475-4016 after 9pm any day. Good luck, Fred

A few other things to check.

1.) Turn off power to the receiver and slowly move the front wheels by hand left and right. The wheels should turn about 30 to 40 degrees. If not you need to look for a bind in the suspension or steering rack.


2.)On your radio look for a dial or mode that says ST EPA (End Point Adjutment) make sure this up around 100%. This will increase steering travel.


3.) Turn on the Receiver power and lift the front wheels off the ground. If your steering is slow or does not have any travel start by replacing the receiver battery. It may have gone bad. In this case your throttle sevo would also react in the same way.

If that does not solve the problem your servos could possible be bad.

Thanks fellas, I have disassembled the front end and have taken the servos off and they still only move from the 11 oclock to the 1 oclock position and the radio is a early model I suspect the little screws are under a clear door on the right side front, I will get the model # tomorrow it's out in my shop. Also,don't know if this is normal, but when I turn the radio off or on the wheels move one way or the other with no hand on anything other than handle.Thanks for the info and will try your suggestions

Thanks fellas, I have disassembled the front end and have taken the servos off and they still only move from the 11 oclock to the 1 oclock position and the radio is a early model I suspect the little screws are under a clear door on the right side front, I will get the model # tomorrow it's out in my shop. Also,don't know if this is normal, but when I turn the radio off or on the wheels move one way or the other with no hand on anything other than handle.Thanks for the info and will try your suggestions

First, always turn the transmitter on first and then the reciever. Shut down in the reverse order with reciever shut down first and the transmitter last. You will notice a slight motion before the servos settle into position of the transmitter signal. Regardless of the amount of travel on these servos they are NOT strong enough for a 1/4 scale car. You mentioned a clear door where the adjustments are made, This sounds like a 1024 Futaba, that is the radio I use. If so there are two possible adjustments you can look at. just above the pistol grip kind of hidden you will see a wheel adjuster with numbers from 1 to 10. The higher the number the more travel the wheels have and also the end points under the door should be set so the wheels turn only as far as the slider will allow.I set them to a low starting point and adjust out slowly till the travel is at the slider bars end of travel. If you have the end point set past the limit of the slider it will stall the servo and cause it to: 1. drain the batteries at a higher rate and it will cause the servo to fail sooner than it should.
Fred :wave:

Fred,


thanks for catching my typo...should have been no "Red Locktite"

I agree with nitrowolf on all but one point. I use and recommend using blue locktite on every nut and bolt. It is a safety issue for one and if not used it will come loose, trust me on this. I've been at it 12 years now. The 3305 is an excellent choice for the steering and the throttle as it puts out about 100 oz. of torque. They are not expensive and they deliver the required amount of torque for both steering and throttle, be carefull on the end points as if not set proper you will stall the servo and possibly damage it. If you take the tie rods loose at the spindle you can then learn if the heim joints on the spindle are binding or if the slider is binding. If the slider is bent or over tightened it will bind. If I can be of any more help call me at 937-475-4016 after 9pm any day. Good luck, Fred

I thought that might be the case. Just call me ole eagle eye, or is that old one eye, or...well what ever.

Fred

Also, use only Kimbrough Servo savers. Part number #124

Eureka I found it, Tanks guys I found the knob under and behind the steering wheel and now I have steering, just one more question, IN2RACIN says to use Kimbrough Servo savers , what are they and where do they go? And again thanks to all who helped, it's amazing what one can do with a little guidance.

HERES WHAT THE SERVO SAVERS LOOK LIKE IM SURE YOU CAR HAS 2 OF THESEhttp://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/692124.asp

You are correct sir, now that I know what it looks like I recognize them.And again thanks for the help.

Eureka I found it, Tanks guys I found the knob under and behind the steering wheel and now I have steering, just one more question, IN2RACIN says to use Kimbrough Servo savers , what are they and where do they go? And again thanks to all who helped, it's amazing what one can do with a little guidance.
The servo savers go on the output shaft of the servos, the tie rods attach to them. The Kimbrough servo savers help absorb shock to the servos if your wheels should hit something they shouldn't such as a wall. They are black in collor and cost $6.00 each. Well worth the money. They will also guard against the servo stalling if your end point adjustment is off a tick or two. The black servo saver is the heavy duty needed for 1/4 scale. I have them if you need them.

Fred :wave:

Thanks, for the info and offer on the servo savers but I have them on the s3003 servos.
Have a great day and again thanks for all the help.