Hi all,
I have a TroyBilt tiller with a Tecumseh H60 on it. My parents bought it back in the 70's I think. I later inherited it. About three years ago I was tilling my garden spot when it began running erratically and it finally quit and wouldn't start. Although it had both a pull starter and an electric starter, I quit using the electric because the tiller always started on the first or second pull.

I decided to check the points and had a heck of a time getting the flywheel off. I wound up getting out the oxy/acetylene and built a flywheel puller for it. When the wheel finally popped loose it did so violently, rang like a bell and the magnets fell on the ground. Opps.

The points looked fine. I did a little clean up on them and made sure the gap was right. But the mag didn't look so good to me. This model has an enclosed (potted?) coil with an open coil on either side of it. On those two coils the wiring lacquer is partially reddish and partially black. It looked like overheated transformers I've seen. Also, the condenser looked really rusty.

Okay, now my question. I marked the flywheel where the magnets used to be and then cleaned it up really good. Got out the super glue and reattached them. I figured the polarity of the magnets would matter and guessed that they should all be mounted the same; north - south, north - south. Is that right? Anyway, when I got it back together to the point I could check for spark, all I got was a very weak spark when I held the plug wire very close to ground. Are the magnets wrong or should I suspect the toasty looking coils? Or the condenser?

I would opt for one of those electronic ignition modules but the ones I've seen say they won't work with multi-magnet flywheels and this thing has six magnets!

I appreciate any help. Thanks!
Davetech

A new or good used flywheel is your best bet. I have never had any success reinstalling the magnets on a flywheel. If you are not going to use the electric start then you don't need to worry about the alternator coil as it's just for generating current to recharge the battery. The ignition coil is the black one with the spark plug lead wire coming out of it. A rusty condenser should not make any difference as long as it has a good ground.

Ahhhh... so that's what those extra coils are... to charge the battery. I won't worry about them right now then.

Well, I agree my best bet is a new or good used flywheel. Only problem is I have not been able to locate one. Been watching eBay but all I've seen are the type with cast iron fins ( for other models). This one has the polypropolyne pop-on fan. I'm afraid a new one is out of my budget range, so it's either tinker with this one or wait for one on eBay.

One thing I have not done that might make a difference is the procedure I've seen described on here to set the gap between the magnets and the magneto lamenate plates.

From what I've read, you loosen the mag assembly just enough for it to be able to move, then use a piece of a business card between the magnet and plates to set the gap after the magnet has attracted the plate to it? How in the world do you get the flywheel back off to tighten the bolts without disturbing the position of the plates? I can't quite envision this. This flywheel has no holes to reach the bolts with a socket while it is in place. Enlighten me please! I'll have to do this even if I locate a replacement flywheel.

Would anyone be able to supply me with a part number for the flywheel to aid my search? Engine # is HH60 105116H Serial: 2047D

I posted some pictures of it in "My Gallery" if you'd care to see.

This may be way out there... but has anyone had success converting over to an automotive coil system?

Thanks again, Davetech

611039 is the part number for the flywheel you need, I don't believe it's available any longer.

You do not need to set the air gap on this type of ignition set up. If you loosen the mounting bolts this allows you to rotate the mag and set ignition timing rather then air gap which is basically fixed for this type of system.

I don't see any reason an automotive type of coil wouldn't work, but then you would have to have a battery to power the coil.

All right! Thank you Sir! Now I at least have a number to get people to pick through their junk pile with anyway.

Thanks for the info about the air gap. Fortunately the bolts made an impression on the laminate plates so I should be able to get it back exactly where it belongs.

I went ahead and bought a battery for it, so I guess I'll see if I can't rewind the charging coils and stick a new diode in the line.

I'm going to keep after this until it works, one way or another. That Troybilt is too good a tiller to give up on!