During my recent ESC rewire job due to the wires becoming junk from about 200+ battery solders, I came up with a solution to end the fray.

I took some 24ga solid copper wire and whipped the solder points on the wire. After wrapping about 15 smooth, close and tightly wound wraps, I took my pliers and crimped smashed the whipped ends flat for more solder contact. The deans solder quickly flowed into the whipped ends and after about 5 battery changes I felt I was onto something good.

Anyone else tried this?

http://a240.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/55/l_31348110e79250cc88f09154d7bacf27.jpg
http://a64.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/26/l_abe59ffc7ae71259c876e21213056487.jpg

The problem with solid wire is it will restrict the movement of your rear pod and effect your spring rate.

Looks to me like he is ONLY using solid wire at the one point on the wire that contacs the battery tab he solders to. Can't see that would affect anything other than the soldering job and that looks fine, good idea..IMO Ralf

During my recent ESC rewire job due to the wires becoming junk from about 200+ battery solders, I came up with a solution to end the fray.

I took some 24ga solid copper wire and whipped the solder points on the wire. After wrapping about 15 smooth, close and tightly wound wraps, I took my pliers and crimped smashed the whipped ends flat for more solder contact. The deans solder quickly flowed into the whipped ends and after about 5 battery changes I felt I was onto something good.

Anyone else tried this?

Cool idea...Every day I sit next to a couple of dozen spools of wire, in every gauge imaginable, and also detest when my speed control wires get to become frayed...and that idea never dawned on me- :thumbsup:

If you want a similar ending result, but some sermos conectors.. Dont use the plastic connector part.. just solder the wire to the silver plug, then you can solder the plug to the battery bar.. I will post a pic tonight on how i do it..

Also try the sorta banana plugs like they use on the LiPo batteries. Sodlier the sleeve onhto the battery and plug in the speed control wire with the banana plug. When we go to LiPo I think thats how we will be doing it then.

Take a look at the link http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=183521

With the whipped method, you won't have to worry about getting the connector too hot and the wire coming un-soldered. Nice idea.

The problem with solid wire is it will restrict the movement of your rear pod and effect your spring rate.

If you look closely, I am using 16ga HighStrand HighFlex wire because 1/12th cars need more give and draw a few less amps.

I used the smallest bare solid wire I had to whip the solder contact points. I do have some 36ga magnet wire, but the hassle of removing the enamel.

Todd, since you do more field testing and racing why not give this a go and see if there is any noticable change in performance: like less resistance over old frayed solder joints over or more resistance over a newly soldered wire. For the average joe like me, I'll be happy with less esc wiring jobs.

This is a neat idea for those that seem to need it, but my opinion is that this isn't really necessary if you use a hot iron and soldering flux. I use flux every time I make a joint and do not have squashed wires.

I see people with these squashed wires all the time as I watch them pressing really hard with the soldering iron to get the joint hot enough to solder. The heat transfer between the iron and the joint is poor because of oxide buildup. If soldering flux is applied to the joint (both the wire and the target, and a little on top of the wire where you touch it with the soldering iron) the heat flows very fast with light touch of a hot iron and you don't need to lean on the joint and squash the wire.

Another "secret" is a tiny bit of solder on the iron. Once you have wiped the iron tip off on the sponge, there is very little solder to provide a path for the heat to flow. Actually I don't even use a sponge. I jab the iron tip in a [dedicated for this] can of paste flux then put a little solder on the tip (about 1/16th inch length) to provide a heat flow path.

TA-MAN,, very good solder tip, its why I own a can of Tinning-Flux and a HAKKO iron. A steady hand, good solder, good flux, and good iron with the right tip will go a long why to preventing the Frayed ends, but you have to admit it will happen to the best of us

If you are using a chlorine based flux, make sure you avoid the vapors.....it will burn your lungs

If you are using a chlorine based flux, make sure you avoid the vapors.....it will burn your lungs
I am using paste flux that comes in a can. The best stuff I have found so far that I have been able to get more of is "Rubyfluid" brand paste flux. I have used other brands (like NoKorrode, Kester, and Blue Seal) in the past, but this seems about the best. I tried one can and when I found out how well it worked, I went back to the store and bought two more.

If you want a similar ending result, but some sermos conectors.. Dont use the plastic connector part.. just solder the wire to the silver plug, then you can solder the plug to the battery bar.. I will post a pic tonight on how i do it..

That's exactly what I've been doing for a few years!

Works pretty darn good too!

I use the integy single plug in ends just change the esc ends every other month no soddering no power loss.
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/enemy_002.jpg
Jake

If you want a similar ending result, but some sermos conectors.. Dont use the plastic connector part.. just solder the wire to the silver plug, then you can solder the plug to the battery bar.. I will post a pic tonight on how i do it..

Those work great!! Bought a used speedo (may have been from Ovaltrucker actually) that had them on and haven't used anything since!

There is a crimper available for these (or use any old crimper). If you crimp the wire in the terminal then also solder it in the terminal, you won't have to worry about the wire coming out when you solder the sermos terminal to your battery post. I don't think we would just want to trust the crimp for the currents we are pullung.

After some testing, I found that using .015 wire to whip the ends provides the best results. After I whip the ends, I used my side cutting pliers to crimp the ends flat. My side cutters have a .049 gap on the handle side for crimping or holding things really tight. The end result for 14ga wire is .25 x .5 x .05 soldering terminal that resis wicking solder deep into the insulated wire and will last many times longer than bare wire. The thermal transfer of heat for soldering was also many times better than bare wire. The whipping acted like a heat-pipe to get heat to the batter bar.

I suspect that after the second solder job on bare wire the resistance added by additional solder is way more than the .015 of copper wire.

what about wraping the ends of the wires to your motors. I know you love bullets, but I have had too many glitches caused from them, might have been a bad batch with the bullets being a little too small. I'll post some pics of my Xray T2 and CRC 3.2 with the wraped wire tabs for the motors. It makes change motors alot better.