Hey guys, I need your advise. I have an Airens Zero turn mower with a B&S 15hp OHV , with Cast Iron sleeve engine that is really using oil, about a quart of 30wt per hour. It smokes upon startup, and I pretty sure I hear a knock, bottomend?? . I'm sure that it was run low on oil before we acquired it.
I cannot afford to buy a new engine. Being pretty good at rebuilding a 2 cycle engine I was wondering just how difficult rebuilding this engine would be. At this point, I do not know if I need piston, rings, bore job, valves, etc...
Where do I start?
What would be a good compression reading for this engine?
Can I get a "rebuild kit" or do I buy individual components?
Is there a place to buy a rebuilt "shortblock" ? :confused:

I welcome ALL advise!
Thanks,
Tony Powers
Unionville, NC

I've got more information:

15 HP Made for Airens by Briggs & Stratton

Model 311707
Type 0138-E1
Code 0102282E

Are there any other engines that may bolt on with little or no modification?
This engine is on an Airens EZR1542 Zero Turn mower.

Thanks again for all help!
Tony P

measure the bolt pattern and usually briggs 12-16 hp are the same bolt pattern. then look on e bay , tulsa engine warehouse, or google the info, you might get an exact engine!

http://cgi.ebay.com/15hp-Briggs-Stratton-Engine-ES-Riding-Mower_W0QQitemZ140104957478QQihZ004QQcategoryZ7967 0QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


check this one out, theres more on e bay =)

Will I notice a difference between the 12-16 hp engines if I currently have a 15hp?
Tony P

if ran low on oil the rod probably is pretty damaged, maybe the piston if it cracked, if the piston has a tiny crack or rather medium sized one, then that might be why your having a high oil consumption engine. check rings too, if they had shrunk/expanded and let oil in though it.

Sounds like the head gasket mighta went, used oil and they never dealt with it and ran it low and damaged the rings.... more then likely the bores fine.. few in and out marks, but given its cast iron it won't scrape like aluminum. Cracked piston is unlikely, just burnt rings. Also replacing the connecting rod would be a good idea...

If you go the new engine route... don't go down in hp, at least try to go upwards or the same.. and the bolt pattern will be the same either way (have swapped a 12hp single with a 18hp twin)
Be aware you might run into wiring issues...

yes, you will notice a difference with a 12-16 hp, if you get a 12hp, theres a change it might smoke alittle under load, and that you cannot tow as much. if its a 16hp, more horse more towing and probably faster

No there will be no smoking under load with a 12hp... except maybe if the carb was tuned improperly.. just more bogging..
The higher then your previous hp engine will result in less bogging under loads... same speed as they all run around 3,600 rpm.
As for towing.... its not the engine that determines the final factor in that... its the transmission.... its how much can it take before it starts slipping.. I've had 8hp engines out tow 18hp engines.... the determining factor was the trans... 8hp had a tougher transaxle.

wow. how old was that briggs?

late 1970 to early 80's... even had the points ignition converted.

wow... how old were the 12hps?

The 12hp engine was the original engine on a 39 inch noma... (it was a Industrial commercial briggs) Made around 1989. Got replaced with a 1992-93 18hp apposed twin (engine sat for years, so it has very low hours)
The wiring of course didn't match... luckily I had the entire mower frame the 18hp engine came off of... so I just tore it out and used it.

wow.. 4 hp diff and its better.. amazing

Ok guys, I hope I can explain my situation. I have acquired a replacement engine for my Ariens EZR 1342 mower. The damaged original engine is
Model 311707, Type 0138-E1, Code 0102282E .
If it matters it had a black engine cover . The replacement engine has a red engine cover and the Model is 28N 707, Type 0173-01, Code 961016ZD .
My problem is wiring does not match up. The damaged engine has a "block" bolted to the engine block beside the starter, with a red and a yellow wire coming out of it. The yellow wire connected to a black wire that went under the flywheel. The red wire connected to a red wire on the frame wiring harness. The replacement engine had no "block" like the first engine, but had a red & blk wire coming from under the flywheel . BOTH engines had a gray and black wires going to the carb float bowl.
I'd really appreciate any suggestions, I do not want to dmage any electrics.
Do the Model, Code, and type numbers explain any differences between these engines, or the date of manufacture?
Thanks for all of the great help!
Tonyp
Unionville, NC

old one was a 01, new one is a 96. That block is a regulator, the wires going to the float bowl are for the fuel shutoff solenoid (anti backfire)

http://www.tulsaenginewarehouse.com/drawings/allwiring.pdf this can help with wiring.

...http://www.tulsaenginewarehouse.com/drawings/allwiring.pdf this can help with wiring.
Wow, that's a great link!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

Well, I got the replacement engine installed along with new belts and hoses. Studied the wiring diagrams, and fired it up. Ran great until it stopped about 3 mins later. Strong smell of smoke and melting wires coming from under engine cover. I expect I wired it wrong. I still have a complete ignition system on the blown engine. But in order to swap ignitions, I need to pull the flywheels. Where can I get a puller?
Thanks,
Tony Powers
Unionville, NC