Is there an optimum motor temperature for brushless motors...especially the 4300 and 13.5? I guess I'm looking for the best temperature to have (so you know your gearing is correct) at the end of a run. Thanks.

No, gear your motor by what works well for you on the track. If you're over about 170 it's getting a bit toasty and you might want to drop a tooth though.

mine run 150-160

mine run 150-160

Your cars so fast you just get more air flow over the motor. LOL

Is there an optimum motor temperature for brushless motors...especially the 4300 and 13.5? I guess I'm looking for the best temperature to have (so you know your gearing is correct) at the end of a run. Thanks.

Novak gives you a tech sheet between the header card in the motor pkg .
Gearing and acceptable motor temps.

Thanks for the replys. I bought my 4300 used, so I didn't get a header card or tech sheet. What does the tech sheet for the 4300 say?

Thanks for the replys. I bought my 4300 used, so I didn't get a header card or tech sheet. What does the tech sheet for the 4300 say?

I have mine run about 140-150 and it is pretty quick that way but your car needs to be a little free to keep it that low. I have had it up to 170 but the car was tight and that affects the motor temp as well. CU rcracer e-mail me I have a little something that will help with the temp as well and some added speed. khenson4@columbus.rr.com . Kevin

HOW quick after a run should you check the TEMP of your brushless motor?

Joe, as soon as you come off the drivers stand check the temp. 160 is about as hot as you want to go up to.

Here is Novak's link for all of the Product and System instruction sheets--files open in PDF format:

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/index.html


Thanks for the replys. I bought my 4300 used, so I didn't get a header card or tech sheet. What does the tech sheet for the 4300 say?

This weekend I ran my 4300 at the ROAR region 3 race at Easley. Twice the car slowed and then the motor stopped running. After a few minutes the motor would run again. The motor was very hot to the touch, did not have a temp gauge. I am running a noval SS speed control. Both this it stopped where at 3:55 + on the clock, the second time it was at the line @ 3:59 and did not even make it to the center of the backstrech. Thsi was a cap tire 365 ft ashpalt low banked track.

During practice the day before, I made 9 runs without this problem, although race day seemde to be about 5 degrees warmer ait temp, low 80's verses high 70's

I have been running this motor orginail 4300, with sintered rotor and the SS speed control since Feb on medium to long flat ashpalt foam tires tracks with the air temps in the 70's to 80's here in FL.

Once you have thermaled a motor, is there anything you need to do? Replace the rotor?

Any help would be great!!!

This weekend I ran my 4300 at the ROAR region 3 race at Easley. Twice the car slowed and then the motor stopped running. After a few minutes the motor would run again. The motor was very hot to the touch, did not have a temp gauge. I am running a noval SS speed control. Both this it stopped where at 3:55 + on the clock, the second time it was at the line @ 3:59 and did not even make it to the center of the backstrech. Thsi was a cap tire 365 ft ashpalt low banked track.

During practice the day before, I made 9 runs without this problem, although race day seemde to be about 5 degrees warmer ait temp, low 80's verses high 70's

I have been running this motor orginail 4300, with sintered rotor and the SS speed control since Feb on medium to long flat ashpalt foam tires tracks with the air temps in the 70's to 80's here in FL.

Once you have thermaled a motor, is there anything you need to do? Replace the rotor?

Any help would be great!!!

Where were you rolled out?

Considering you are running the SS speedo it could have actually been the speedo causing the problem not the motor. Some of the SS speedos had an issue where they would thermal very easily even if they weren't that hot. If you have access to another speedo you could see if that cures the problem. If it does then you can send yours back to Novak and they will take care of it.

Not matter what is causing the problem your rotor should be fine. There is no need to replace it.

it was at the line @ 3:59 and did not even make it to the center of the backstrech.

It didn't keep rolling? That sounds like a bearing problem maybe...motor....axle?

It was rolling just no way too cost 360ft. lmao

I was rolling by 365 on a mostly flat track was a bit to much to hope for.

Thanks for the input on the speedo.

You can return your old SS speed control and exchange it for a RMF SS+ (#1705 XBR replacement version) controller.

Service Replacement Options (http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/web_options/index.html)


I have been running this motor orginail 4300, with sintered rotor and the SS speed control since Feb on medium to long flat ashpalt foam tires tracks with the air temps in the 70's to 80's here in FL.