Finally I found the time to proceed on a project, which idea I got about a year ago, after reading a story in a newsletter of the 80's. It described a track being built from stainless steel, with the track surface acting as the rails.

I got the track lasercut in one piece, laminated it to a PVC foam board and wook as support. Now the slots were routed through the steel surface. One lane is done yet, the rest is following soon.

Here were some pictures:

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL489/2222574/15781831/240351369.jpg

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL489/2222574/15781831/240351507.jpg

Michael

Wow!
Interesting concept...

How do the cars run? How is the wear on the shoes as well as on the track surface? Interesting idea!

That's definately an interesting idea.......but good luck running magnet cars on that.....because stainless steel isn't magnetic......at least none of our stainless steel stock at work is.

Wow pretty wild looking. Stainless steel is non magnetic so it would be like a copper tape track. Shoes may never wear out, but arcing may cause tarnishing after a while. Cleaning the surface could be tough to do with out scratching.

Pretty cool looking though. :cool:

Well, as far as I can tell yet, the cars were running absolutely great. But only after a small change in the setup. Contact is a real issue due to the large portion of the pickups contacting the surface. We helped us at the moment with putting braid on the bottom of the shoes. Equiped with that the cars were a blast to drive. With nothing protruding over the surface its a real smooth riding.

Since I have none experience on any professional track (we do not have many over here) I have no idea of the difference. Of course we knew that stainless steel is non.magnetic, but the totally different idea was the motor driven us to built this thing up, and it was not meant to compete with "normal" track at all. So its anywhere in between a standard track used with pre-magnet era cars and a slider track like Ed Bianchi was building. We were finally sliding with every car, no matter which magnets were built into them. Tonight we ran a RiggenHO against a Tyco 440. And guess which was more fan, easier to drive and just from the guessing being faster? Right, the Riggen ;-))

Michael

Edit: Just after re-reading it: Another change in the setup were the use of LAW tires (that the name for it?). With such a smooth surface even with silicone tires the cars drifted as hell, with the LAW's they stay on the track like the magnet cars on magnetic track. Hard to explain, especially in a foreign language.....EditEnd

wow! VERY cool concept! :thumbsup:

--rick

And now to interrupt this programming........FYI, not all stainless steels are non-magnetic. Common misconception.

Google says only the austenitic family isn't magnetic. There are 3 other families if I can remember my metallurgy from 20 years ago.....

Ok, back to the super cool routed metal track...............

And now to interrupt this programming........FYI, not all stainless steels are non-magnetic. Common misconception.

Google says only the austenitic family isn't magnetic. There are 3 other families if I can remember my metallurgy from 20 years ago.....

Ok, back to the super cool routed metal track...............

Yes, indeed. Unfortunately my supplier who cut the track had no magnetic stainless steel in stock. But then I still was not sure how an even slightly magnetic track would work with such a large surface, compared to the small rail in standard track. I was afraid the cars would not even move.....

Michael

I love the concept and the smoothness is amazing....good job Michael

I'm a metal worker. It's quite a piece of sculpture just as it sits, let alone that its probably the smoothest track ever concieved.

The pick up pressure will be distributed across the contact patch. I thinking it will be like driving on wide tires in the snow, vs skinnies.

Truly innovative!

BH

Zanza,
when the track is done, you can come up here to turn some rounds, Stuttgart is not too far from Vevey!

Bill,
thanks for the compliments! I never thought you were a metal worker, with your great body work you were presenting here. To know if its the smoothest track lacks of comparison from my side. I know only sectinal plastic track, and boy, thats a difference :p

But its the distribution of the pickup pressure, that make the problems still: All the cars need braids soldered on the bottom of the pickups, beside my goog ol' Riggen, which is originally equipped with braids. I guess it will be some kind of research to find a solution for that, maybe sanding the surface, or something similar, just to get something different than this mirror-like smooth surface.....

Michael

That's gotta be a blast to drive on. Probably the best Tjet track ever built.

That's gotta be a blast to drive on. Probably the best Tjet track ever built.


Would have to agree, can you imagine running (or sliding) any of those non-magnetic pancakes on that surface. Yee-Haw! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr

Zanza,
when the track is done, you can come up here to turn some rounds, Stuttgart is not too far from Vevey!

Michael

Great, after all it's "only" 450 kms far :thumbsup:

This kind of counters the G-jet. Now every car you own can ride with the G-jet philosophy without new cars, new power, etc. Very cool. Love the smoothness.

Jim

That isn't altogether true. GJets do have some downforce...

That is a great looking track.
If I understand correctly, you had the basic track cut from a single piece of steel. You then glued it down to a foam/wood board. You then needed to cut competely through the steel for both the guide slot and the slot dividing the lanes.
After you had the track cut and laminated to the foam board, I would be interested to know what method you used to rout the slots.
Also a question - is shorting out the track an issue? For instance, someone leaning over the track to reslot a car?

Thanks...Joe

Joe,
you were mostly right. Lamination was the first step, afer the cutting of the track of course. There were bridges beween all the "stripes" about 1mm wide, to have all the pieces connected to each other. This was necessary for the lasercutting process, so that each lane holds its position even with the heat being introduced from the laser.

After the lamination (wood for the support, foam for the slots) we took a Dremel with a small router bit to route the slots into the PVC. This router bit has a cutting length of about 5mm, so the cutting part was completely below the steel surface. So we could use the cylindrical portion of the bit as a guide along the lasercut slot in the steel. Pretty simple.

The bridges were then cut afterwards. The ones between the lanes were at the moment "just" cut through, without any routing in the PVC. We were thinking of filling these gaps with a kind of resin after all the lanes were separated, to have the gaps flush with the surface. Hope all this is understandable, english is still not my mother language....

As for the G-Jet: I am still trying to get my hands on one of these. I would imagine there is a difference indeed of driving a "normal" car on this track compared to the G-Jet due to the weight! I suppose the G-Jet is heavier. But I never got an answer after mailing Gary, and no vendor has them over here....

Michael

Hope all this is understandable, english is still not my mother language....



Hi Michael,
English is my only language and I still can't speak well! LOL
I think I understand now what you did. The laser cutting did all all the cuts - the lanes and the cuts between the lanes - prior to the track being laminated to the PVC board. However, in order for the track to stay together after everything was cut, it was necessary that there be at least one, and probably more, small "bridges" where the laser did not cut, leaving a small connection across the slots. After the track was glued in place, these bridges could be cut.
Excellent idea. This is something I would love to try.
How thick is the steel? Is it flexible enough that it would allow you to make elevations? And from your description it sounds as if no car with hard pickups can ride on it - you have to attach some braid.
Great job.

Joe

Joe

Joe,
thats it, its exactly what we did yet. The track is about 1mm thick, and is indeed flexible enough that elevations would be possible. Nothing too dramatic though. I thought about elevations myself, but stayed flat for several reasons then. One is that I had not really the proof that it is working at all, so why hassle with building elevations in the first place.

The pickup problem is not solved yet. With braids they work great, but we plan in the next step to try and alter the surface i.e. with sanding to try to get the hard pickups running.

If you wnat to try that, and my layout would be ok with you, I could send you the CAD data.

Michael

Talking about smoothness, here is a small video of the track, wich a MicroCuc running on one lane:

Steel Track (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul7LUMR1HEE)

In reality the cars were not as loud as in the video, I suppose this is due to the position of the microphone in the camera.

Enoy!

Michael

I like the fall on floor at the end :dude:

Noise is more than acceptable I think, and there are no joint click and hum by the way...

In video, your track looks more amazing, I definitely love it

Actually I wanted to cut that portion, but finally was too excited to show the film than finding a way of editing a movie. Yes it fell, and it fell hard but nothing bent or broken. No walls were there yet, and I tried it just a little too fast.....

Michael

Thanks for sharing!

Like Zanza, I enjoyed the dismount!

Sounds like you stuck the landing, I give it a "9.5", only because I coudnt see the final tumble.

That's one cool track.

Bill

Bill, sorry for missing the landing, but I could not hold the camera AND manage the controller. Well, ok, having the control looks different.....

Thanks for the 9.5 anyway ;-))

Michael

If you wnat to try that, and my layout would be ok with you, I could send you the CAD data.

Michael

Hi Michael,
I don't think the CAD design would do me any good right now as I am a long way from being able to attempt this project. Seeing what you did is great, and I am anxious to find out what other pieces of information and experiance you pick up along the way.
Keep all of us posted on your progress.

Thanks...Joe

IMHO- the issue with the pick ups will have to result in running braids. Copper pick-up shoes are designed to ride on the top of a rail. The function is the opposite of what you might think; The small surface area of the rail actually offers a solid contact with the wide shoe as it's moving, as the shoe can tip and move to stay over the rail with the spring tension. The rail eventually wears a groove into the shoe. When you apply the wide surface of the shoe to a wide contact surface, the shoes rarely lay flat and are changing position as the car moves. There is also air entering between the 2 surfaces. It creates resistance as the 2 surfaces don't match exactly and the power connection scatters trying to find a ground, presumably creating sparks. Using braid on flat tape, or braid on braid (1/24) allows the 2 surfaces to "work in" and find a common connection spot as there are many small surfaces within the braid. Remember this is a moving connection.

OK, next step is going on. After I thought for quite some time of a solution to separate the lanes in the curves in case someone deslots I came up with the following idea: The table itself should stay flat, since its to be used as a table as well, so whatever will be attached has to be taken off again. Now I sunk some 1/3 inch long aluminum sleeves into the surface, where the fence can be stuck into. After taken out, nothing is standing over the top of the surface. Here were the pictures:

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL489/2222574/15781831/244703423.jpg

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL489/2222574/15781831/244703448.jpg

Michael

Michael,
It's been about a year since you posted your stainless steel track. Now that you've had a long time to experiment, how has it been going and what have you learned?

Thanks...Joe

Lol, I just watched your video on youtube 10 mins ago :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ul7LUMR1HEE&feature=related

Well done!

That video was great !

The music and the sound of the crash at the end. :p

Good day everybody. This is Dave from Ohio. I can't tell you how suprised I was to find this site while surfing Hobby Talk. I'm the guy that started building steel tracks back in the 80s. I have lost my copy of the newsletter. I'm not sure the one you have speaks of me or someone else. I will never forget the look on the editors face when he walked into my track room. My track is 105' centerline and has a total of 15 turns. It is made of stainless steel that magnets react to. As for the fencing I routered an additional slot and press fit clear lexan, The picture featured on the front page shows this but it's hard to see. If you have a copy of this newsletter I would like to try to get a copy. I found it best to use .125 automotive stripping tape on both sides of the car slot. Red-Blue-Green-Yellow. I then covered the center slot with .250 black. The tape on both sides of the slot takes care of any arcing. We have been racing on this track at a hobby shop for years and no problem with the stripping holding up. We do solder a very small braid to the stock shoes. This takes only a few seconds and last for weeks of racing. For more on my track go to freddieshobbies.com, scroll down to forum,scroll down to HO tracks. I would very much like to here you. Thankyou and have a great raceday.

Good day everybody. This is Dave from Ohio. I can't tell you how suprised I was to find this site while surfing Hobby Talk. I'm the guy that started building steel tracks back in the 80s. I have lost my copy of the newsletter. I'm not sure the one you have speaks of me or someone else. I will never forget the look on the editors face when he walked into my track room. My track is 105' centerline and has a total of 15 turns. It is made of stainless steel that magnets react to. As for the fencing I routered an additional slot and press fit clear lexan, The picture featured on the front page shows this but it's hard to see. If you have a copy of this newsletter I would like to try to get a copy. I found it best to use .125 automotive stripping tape on both sides of the car slot. Red-Blue-Green-Yellow. I then covered the center slot with .250 black. The tape on both sides of the slot takes care of any arcing. We have been racing on this track at a hobby shop for years and no problem with the stripping holding up. We do solder a very small braid to the stock shoes. This takes only a few seconds and last for weeks of racing. For more on my track go to freddieshobbies.com, scroll down to forum,scroll down to HO tracks. I would very much like to here you. Thankyou and have a great raceday.

Do you have pictures of your track? I couldn't find them on the www.freddieshobbies.com site as you directed us.

Dave (TUCKMASTER) - is your track currently setup and operational???

Hey Dave,
The November, 1994 issue of the "Lots of Slots" magazine/newsletter written by Joel Vanderkolk has an article entitled, 'The Tuckmaster All Stainless Track'. I have the article, if you'd like me to fax a copy to you just send me a fax number to this e-mail address: Rawafx@msn.com

Bob Weichbrodt
"Rawafx"
W-S, NC

First of all I would like to thank Bob for taking the time to forward me the newsletter. Freddie and I are in the process of setting up 1840 sq.ft. of dedicated space for the "Steely" and an eight lane 24th. scale. We plan to start racing on the Steely the middle of september. I have finished the design and flow chart as to the building of the 8 lane. I suspect about 200 man hrs. to finish. As for pictures of the Steely, Freddie believes they are in a file and I will post as soon as time permits. Thankyou, Dave

Where are you located?

Freddies Hobbies 100 Romito St. Ravenna, Ohio www.freddieshobbies.com. Ravenna is approx. 30 mi. southeast of Cleveland.

Dave, This is John Warren, North Coast H.O.......Nice surprize to see your post here! The pictures I have of your track from years ago didn't turn out that great. I'll Have to make a trip over to Ravena & bring along a few of the newer racers. I've told many racers about your tracks. Glad to see that you are still at it.

What a Kewl Concept...woah steel track!:woohoo:

And it's STILL clean after all these years!

Steely Dan:eek:

Steel Crazy After All These Years. Paul Simon

This is Freddie. I have finding the pictures on my to-do-list. and for anyone that knows me thats a pretty long list. :p

I will set it together with dave'y and snap a few pics for you. We are working on the slot room so it will be up and ready for this winters season. Come on out and race on Dave's GREAT invention this winter :thumbsup:

Very very nice!

Gentlemen, you have just made my day. My name is Gerard Cullan and I am the designer and builder of the MicroCuc. 352 were hand built and shipped all over the world. One of my fellow MARC members sent me a link to the video of the MicroCuc on the amazing Stainless Steel track.

It was a thrill to see the track, as it was to see someone enjoying the MicroCuc in action.

Thanks, and best regards,

I wanting to build a routed oval. I just had to go back and see this track.

Rich :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Here's that thread we were talking about for Tuckmaster.

Enjoy Dave!

If you want to try that, and my layout would be ok with you, I could send you the CAD data.

Michael

Hi Michael, just found this thread. Fabulous track! I love it. Have you solved the problems with the pickups? If you still have them would you still be willing to share the CAD data? I'd love to have a look.

Cheers,

Todd

Hi Michael, just found this thread. Fabulous track! I love it. Have you solved the problems with the pickups? If you still have them would you still be willing to share the CAD data? I'd love to have a look.

Cheers,

Todd

Todd,
I'm not sure Michael is still on this board. I haven't seen or heard from him in a very long time.

Joe