Hello all im new to this and i was just woundering the ratio for the fuel oil mixture :wave:

What oil are you using?

Hello all im new to this and i was just woundering the ratio for the fuel oil mixture :wave:
Yeah he called me, I had to explain ther is a Newbi on this end of the phone to :confused: < confussed boy with a pink car

i run my oil mix at 40:1 its a little rich but it saves on motor wear you can run it leaner to make more power but it tears up stuff.

What oil are you using?

IN2RACIN is right on the money. WHAT oil? It really makes a difference.

any thoughts on the new saber oil? :wave:

rybred33. If your talkin bout saber 100/1 professional. Awsome!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I'm pretty green here to gr83. I was wondering if Bel-Ray at 60:1?
And the Fuel?
I have called all over Kansas City today.
A motorcycle shop sells Klotz 107 octane is this what I want?

I noticed that qsac recommends amsoil saber now and was curious to know if anyone has tried it and the ratio suggested, thanks, RW Is it 100/1 slider?thanks, rw :wave:

I run vp c-16, no problems at all in two seasons.

Yep, C16 is what most people run.

I am going to be running the amsoil saber professional

I was told to use the vp-c12 fuel

i use C16 the higher the octane the cooler the motor runs. .----> C12 will work fine :thumbsup:

I too have used VP c-12 with no problems.

Thanks for all the help

With the new QSAC required Amsoil Saber Professional, at what ratio will this be mixed?

I know in the past it has been 2 1/2 oz oil to 1 gallon of fuel, as listed in the rules. However, the change in oil came after the rules were released for 2007, so I didn't know if the ratio may have changed.

I know some of you had listed other ratios in this thread; that is part of the reason for the question.

Thanks,
Joe

Joe -The Sabor Pro is mixed at 1.3 oz per gallon.

Is this going to be amended in the rules so it is not over-mixed at QSAC events?

Right now it is still listed as 2 1/2 oz to 1 gallon.

Joe

I was wondering if the Tanaka oil is a good brand to use. From what I see of it, it doesn't make any difference for the oil gas ratio. One amount is good for any ratio. Are they filling me a lot of bull?

Richard

Then why would there be a oil ratio. Yes it does make a difference. it is really in the application it is being used for as what ratio is required.

I personally have not used Tanaka oil.

Amsiol Saber Pro.

Here is a reply about the Tanaka oil. See if you can make this out. I really don't want to shell an engine, just to try it. This is quite lengthy. I did buy a quart of it, but am somewhat hesitant to give it a try. What do you think? I am new at this.




As you could probably imagine, we have this question posed to us on a regular basis.



In order to fully understand the multi-ratio nature of two cycle oils, you have to consider engine construction and the purpose the oil serves. A two cycle engine uses gasoline as the carrier of the oil to lubricate all aspects of the internals. Unlike a four cycle engine which has a crankcase and circulates oil throughout the engine - separate from the fuel system. Now, let's assume that you have a Tanaka product, and another high quality product, let's say a Stihl chainsaw for the sake of comparison. Both of these machines use nearly identical componentry; Forged connecting rods/crankshafts, chrome plated cast aluminum cylinders, etc. Their tolerances are so technically similar, the differences are not worth considering. In other words, what is required for lubrication is almost exactly the same.



Oil is a blend of components. The bulk of it is a base stock, which is oil, but it's primary purpose is not to lubricate, but rather to blend with, and carry, additives that provide specific functions. The most important additive is the one that provides the lubricity. Some people refer to this additive as "bright-stock". The base oil also can blend with and carry other additives designed to accomplish different things - for example quality oils have an additive that helps maintain the integrity of the gasoline should it be stored as mixed fuel for extended periods. Another additive may help reduce exhaust smoke.



Oil took on a marketing theme many years ago. Because of the situation described earlier about the similarities in design and requirements, it was obvious that a customer could use brand A oil in brand B product. However, the company who made brand A product - also sells oil. How do they protect their oil business and prevent customers from buying the competitors oil? Let's say for the sake of argument that an oil blend requires X amount of the lubricity additive to adequately run an engine. The manufacturer would then formulate an oil blend with the amount of additives to reach that level - when mixed at the odd ratio they prescribe for their product. As you've seen, there are 16:1, 25:1, 32:1, 40:1 42:1, 50:1, etc. However, if you analyzed these oils, you'd find very similar amounts of the actual ingredients needed to provide the life allowing lubricity, even at these odd ratios. This has been a very effective way of convincing a customer who bought a unit requiring two cycle oil to buy their brand of oil. Who wants to take a chance on a $500 machine?? If it says 42:1 the customer assumes he needs to seek out a 42:1 oil. Coincidentally, the manufacturer of his equipment sells such an oil - and it's conveniently located on the shelf next to the equipment. I think you get the idea.



Tanaka Perfect Mix is what's referred to as a one-mix oil. The oil is formulated so that when mixed at 50:1, or 2.6 ounces per gallon of fuel, it contains enough of the life giving additives to work in any of these engines. Additionally, it goes a long way in simplifying the mixing of the oil with the self measuring bottle. There are other one-mix types of oil that mix at a ratio of 100:1. Most people would look at that and think that there simply isn't enough oil to allow the engine to survive, but again - it's not the amount of base stock that is the important issue - it's what is contained within the blend. Their blend has higher percentage of the additive than does an oil that mixes at 25:1.



One consideration to all of this is that some engines are simply not well made. Typically products sold through mass-merchandisers such as Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc. sell products designed for very low performance, and limited engine life. They differ considerably in construction, using stamped connecting rods, non-plated cylinders, bushings where bearings belong, etc. These engines will not survive for extended periods with any oil - they're simply not designed to. In many cases, if a customer gets less than 50 hours of operation from such an engine - the product has met the objective of the manufacturer. Oil cannot overcome quality / design issues to that extent.



This can be a very confusing situation, and the engine industry has to take the blame for complicating the issue. We would like to take a little credit for simplifying it. Unfortunately, to adequately explain it requires this somewhat exhaustive dissertation.



I hope this helps. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance.



Best Regards,

Randy

TANAKA


Here is another one, that maybe more close to the engine. What do you think?


Zenoah is famous for their hobby engines. They also have a long history of supplying engines to Go Ped for use on their foot scooters. Their primary business with their small engines however (Komatsu Zenoah is a huge industrial manufacturer of many products), is for use on their own brand of commercial power equipment – Red Max (redmax.com). I would say that the quality is very much high end and we consider them to be a direct competitor to the Tanaka line.



The only caveat with the RC engines is that some are designed to be run on alcohol. However, provided it is designed for a two cycle mix – they’ll love the Tanaka Perfect Mix.



Best Regards,

Randy