:wave: This is a great Idea for those confronted with the dilemma of adapting bodies that are longer than the standard T-jet wheelbase.This would solve all the technical handling issue's building school bus's,trucks etc.Perhaps someone could do the maximum wheelbase & then you could cut it down for what you need.Aside from standard t-Jet-type parts you would just need to make tooling for the long chassis & gearplate.Check-out link below for picture.This was not my Idea but the guy down under had a Bonzer of a brainstorm !

Neal



http://neophytte.mine.nu/forum/forum.pl?fid=05&topic_id=1161247233

I'd like to see some detail shots of this. Wow!

I see my Reaper in those weird cars.:thumbsup: Has anyone see this car anywhere else?

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/6587reaper.jpg
their are quit a few of my others that would work there too.:freak:

the first one doesnt work think about the way the gears spin

It does not matter as long as you can reverse the position of the magnets.

the first one doesnt work think about the way the gears spin

You're right, you could only hook up every other axle. Or just use short tires (that don't touch the track) on the wheels running the direction you don't want to go and maybe get that spinner look? HA!

wow, I'm flattered.. some guy named Richard posted three of my cars on that site.
My hot rod, my Munster's coach and my VW pick up

Cool

the first one doesnt work think about the way the gears spin


All you have to do is make sure the crown gear is on the opposite side of the pinion of the axle next to it.

All you have to do is make sure the crown gear is on the opposite side of the pinion of the axle next to it.

(Sound of hand slapping head)

I wonder what is so weird about my JL Camaro on a Jeff McCleese aluminum trailer being pulled by a station wagon resin cast by Claus Heupel? :confused: ..... I don't know about you guys, but I'm not entirely sure I like this dubious distinction ! ! :(

(Sound of hand slapping head)
Jeff, The next sound you here will be me slicing the rear deck to flip the crown gear like Mike says. I cant really get it up for the decapod setup. Me thinks there's too much drag and monkey motion to be practical. However, the possibilities for a sensible, functional twin screw truck application has got me twitchin' :p I've got an old aurora stake bed body and scrap chassis' O'plenty. What does one use to bond chassis plastic reliably? I'm gonna start whittling tonite! Bill

Yes Bill, if one side of the gear turns forward, so what does the other side do?

I would suspect the same thing about the drag. Of course you could put a chassis, or an arm and magnets on either end.....

Changing the crown gear to the right side will correct the rotation of the second axle. You'd have to alternate the crown left, right, left, right etc. to use the directly coupled driven gears like the decapod shown in the pic. 1:1 trans axles use this engineering depending on which way the transaxle is positioned. Either facing forward like a Beetle or 911 or rearward like a 914 or Pantera, the ring gear is moved to the correct side for forward rotation. I suspect that such is the case if we could see the underside of the ten wheeled beast! I'm convinced that a decent performing conventional twin screw setup for our model trucks is within our reach. :thumbsup: If I remember correctly didn't Aurora have a live rear dual axle specialty chassis in the works at one time? I thought I saw it in the "Beeres Bible". As I said before, once I figure out, or someone coughs up how to bond the chassis material together the rest is simple cut and paste other than keeping the pinion shafts plumb and the axles parallel. Whats the worst that happen? All I could do is farge it up or make it work. :p

Home today with all the snow here in Chicago. :wave:

Ya those guys on the Perth HO BBS are cool. I caught a link to that place on a thread about LED car lighting on one of the other boards. They post up a lot of neat ideas. I signed up there recently after seeing some of my "Weird HO" vehicles show up there but haven't said hello yet. :)

Here are shots of an old extended chassis I made for a Flatbed truck. It was pretty easy to build; It's a Tyco pan chassis with Evergreen Styrene pieces for the front extension and the back piece for the double axle was heated and bent. Both extensions have slotted axle holes so the chassis still sits right. I am now using this chassis for a camera vehicle. The battery sits on the SG+ magnets glued to the back of the chassis and the camera sits where the cab is just nehind the front axle. I need to boost the traction magnets so the whole thing will stay on the track on the high banks. :p

http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/2/1Truck-camera-chassis-med.jpg

Larger Image (http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/2/1Truck-camera-chassis.jpg)

http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/2/1Truck-chassis-bottom.jpg

http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/2/1Truck-chassis-top.jpg

I wonder what is so weird about my JL Camaro on a Jeff McCleese aluminum trailer being pulled by a station wagon resin cast by Claus Heupel? :confused: ..... I don't know about you guys, but I'm not entirely sure I like this dubious distinction ! ! :(
TJ, I'm thinking that wierd means cool downunder! Perhaps Richard(neophyte), can give us some clarification on the nuances of Aussie phrases and idiom. Take Claus for example, he understands if you were to say, " Thats one "bad" ride!" that it's a compliment. He knows our idioms. Another German who didnt now the twist of a phrase would be hurt! This is a common problem when translating any language. Read any directions or marketing info on items produced in Asia, "and you'll gladly be honor joyed to in the plugging of wall power to be fruitful"! Your wonderful example of race day americana is wierd, phat, bad, cool, and rad. So directly translated, your set is strange, overwieght, ill behaved, cold, and irradiated. :p I thought that pretty blue color you used had a touch of plutonium in it!

the oscar meyer weinermobile in that thread is tooooo coool.... :thumbsup:

--rick

I wonder what is so weird about my JL Camaro on a Jeff McCleese aluminum trailer being pulled by a station wagon resin cast by Claus Heupel? :confused: ..... I don't know about you guys, but I'm not entirely sure I like this dubious distinction ! ! :(

Hi TJD,

Sorry wasn't intended as an insult; 'weird' was at the start of the thread, with the first chassis, and then it just became a place I was dropping pictures of 'unusual' cars ... I'm envious because I've been looking around for a trailer like that to add to some of my resin casts (you can see some of them in another thread on this board, or a few on our Perth HO board). Your picture remains as an inspiration to me!! (as well as some of the other pictures there!)

I'll remove it if you're not comfortable with it there, if you like.

BTW folks, we *believe* that first chassis is a photoshop edit, rather than a real slice and dice - does anyone know any different??

Cheers

Richard

I see my Reaper in those weird cars.:thumbsup: Has anyone see this car anywhere else?

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/6587reaper.jpg
their are quit a few of my others that would work there too.:freak:

Please feel free to drop along and place a few more there - it's always good to see the imagination of others running wild :)

Richard

I am now using this chassis for a camera vehicle. The battery sits on the SG+ magnets glued to the back of the chassis and the camera sits where the cab is just nehind the front axle. I need to boost the traction magnets so the whole thing will stay on the track on the high banks. :p

http://www.planetofspeed.net/PhotoPost/data/2/1Truck-camera-chassis-med.jpg


Nice camera truck! My build is here:

http://neophytte.mine.nu/forum/forum.pl?fid=05&topic_id=1144982195&page=1

Cheers

Richard

Hey Neo... thanks for the clarification and nice comments. Now that you explain I understand what you mean exactly and am humbled you like the trailer. Not sure if Jeff McCleese is still making these, but his email is ... K9jammc.cs.com and there is a nice write up in HO World's archives (use their search feature to find "McCleese"). They come bare aluminum (a plus for the customizers in this forum) and he makes them with or without tire rack. Have a good one. :wave: ....tjd

BTW: Even if this long chassis is a photoshop creation... I am more than certain that if it can actually be made... one of the guys on this board will be the one to do it. I learned long ago that wherever there is a slot car project being thought about... chances are it's actually already been done here first. Our very own HT guys are the real deal bar none.

Here is how I got rid of the "center steer" condition.

This is on a resin cast bus I bought from Dan Espisito at a slot car swap meet. I had a completely abused T-Jet chassis (don't we all somewhere?) and cut it off just after the pick-up shoe holders. I drilled out the center armature hole for a body screw. I added a couple posts to the body and soldered a jumper wire from the front chassis to the rear running chassis. With Weird Jack's Rocket Science silicone tires, it runs and handles really well!!

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Bus1.JPG

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/511/Bus2.JPG

Maybe someday I will finish the body.

Marty

Great idea and elegant solution....

Nice job Marty...

I will have to remember this...

Scott

here's my 4 wheel drive chassis

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/CUSTOM4WHEEL.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/CUSTOM4WHEELREARCU.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/4WDSemi2.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/4WDSemichassis2.jpg

Jimmy, that is some insane custom work, to get them gears lined up like that. how does it run? smooth?

Hey Ed..yes, it runs smooth and FAST

HeHeHe, That's what I'm talkin' about! What did you use to bond the chassis together? Cool as usual Jimmy!

Hey Bill, I used epoxy. I love that stuff. I rely heavily on it

Thats slick Marty. Neat and simple. I like anything that lowers the population in the reject chassis box. This also just spawned an idea for an articulated bus. Inspiring!

I see my Reaper in those weird cars.:thumbsup: Has anyone see this car anywhere else?

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/6587reaper.jpg
their are quit a few of my others that would work there too.:freak:

I saw it screaming down the drag strip a Lightning fest and at my house!

Hey Neo... thanks for the clarification and nice comments. Now that you explain I understand what you mean exactly and am humbled you like the trailer. Not sure if Jeff McCleese is still making these, but his email is ... K9jammc.cs.com and there is a nice write up in HO World's archives (use their search feature to find "McCleese"). They come bare aluminum (a plus for the customizers in this forum) and he makes them with or without tire rack. Have a good one. :wave: ....tjd


Thanks - found that and added a link to it; just as a side note, I think it was when an article on HO World went missing (about building a video truck) that I started 'archiving' pics on our local BB - I prefer to have something in front of me to compare against, as my modelling skills are still low to medium.

Now we're heading off for our 2nd wedding and honeymoon next month, my slot car funds have been cut rather dramatically - I still haven't finished my test routed track (see http://routedtrack.hobby-site.com). Totally off-topic, you can see the pics from our civil wedding in our backyard here: http://neophytte.mine.nu/photo/2006-12-24-civil_wed-pn/

Cheers

Richard

Not quite sure where I'm goin' with this yet. It actually runs pretty good, in spite of the added monkey motion. :thumbsup: The antique AJ's could probably stand a scuff to true'm up, but it was pretty smooth from the git go. Mods to the main chassis are minimal, just a little clearancing on the tail. Currently has an AFX mag arm with stock AFX magnets. I originally had it mocked up with AFX rear specialty mags and low pros all around. This proved problematic as the pick ups were dangling short. Doh! :freak: It sure looked cool, but wouldn't hook up electrically without extensive mods. For now the rear unit is mounted using the rear screw slot and a shim pack, which allows adjustment to ensure all six wheels are level. It was a five by for a few laps. LOL. The extended gear plate is one unit. Due to tire size the additional idler was required. Direct coupling of the driven gears is only possible with stock little rims, as larger wheel sizes wont double up in the confined space.

looks like a big truck fcb

I guess I've been doing things all wrong again. Check out my pictures as to what I did.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/17701/cat/511

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/17700/cat/511

Please give me some feedback. I want to hear it, good or bad.
Thanks,
fordcowboy

I guess I've been doing things all wrong again. Check out my pictures as to what I did.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/17701/cat/511

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/17700/cat/511

Please give me some feedback. I want to hear it, good or bad.
Thanks,
fordcowboy
Right and wrong? That's a hoot cowboy. :p You better recheck this thread. It's about whatever gets you from point A to point B. I really enjoy the out of the box thinking in this group! If I cant do it wrong at least once I'll never get it right. That chassis looks like a great solution for the 2 wheel drive long body. How did you get the extended driveshaft to run true? How's the performance?

This is 'my' attempt at a chassis with a 2'' wheelbase (planned body Audi A10)




http://www.bglawns.com/metalchassis2.jpg

Nice chassis - but isn't the metal going to cause shorts when running on the track??

Cheers

Richard

Nice chassis - but isn't the metal going to cause shorts when running on the track??

Cheers

Richard

I plan to use shielded wire and a RiggenHO guide.

I plan to use shielded wire and a RiggenHO guide.

Neat...
But what I think Richard was inquiring about was the possibility of the chassis itself coming into contact with the rails....
Scott

where would the 'short' be? After all there are 100s of metal chassis out there....

you could always paint the chassis with a thin coat of paint or clear coat... that should prevent shorts

I wont think their would be much a promble with a short after a body was on.arethese for sale fcb :rolleyes:

where would the 'short' be? After all there are 100s of metal chassis out there....

If for some reason the metal chassis touched both rails...
But I do understand your point. There are many TycoPro and Riggen chassis out there that have never had a problem.
HO chassis do tend to sit lower to the track than their larger (1/32, 1/24) brothers..
In fact many magnet car chassis are set up right when the rails leave faint marks on the bottom of the chassis and traction magnets...
Scott

Remember old school tycopro brasspans. They were a rolling short when the paint and tires got thin. Much to do about nuttin'. VJ's right, a quick spritz and it's down the road motors. This chassis is a gorgeous piece of workmanship. Check out the crisp uniform bends. It also appears that this chassis' square and parallelism are adjustable at all four corners. The fit and finish work are top notch. Get the pickups done already I wanna know how it runs and handles!

The finished article may well use the LifeLike T motor so that I can use full width rear tyres. Chassis on its way as is a RiggenHO guide so it should not be be too long. Also got some radical magnets on the way, but no idea how to fit them yet.

I also got someone lined up to try and make the Audi R10 with correct wheelbase. Anyone know what that is in the real world?

actually, Bill is right. I have a few of those long brass AJ pans on a fsome of my tycopros and I haven't had any problems running them

I must have failed electricity 101 but I though a short would only be caused if something conductive touched both motor tabs at once?

I must have failed electricity 101 but I though a short would only be caused if something conductive touched both motor tabs at once?
Scott clarified in post 38 that the concern was the potential for a direct short across the rails. Although I'm sure they wont, the camera angle forces a perspective indicating some possibility that your horizontals (AKA frame connectors) might scuff. I'm sure it's a trick of the lens. :thumbsup: With no track in the pic for a reference point, I understand where some might see this as a potential problem. :freak: Even if they did scuff, it would be a simple matter to cut a slight clearancing radius/arch in the frame connectors. BH