Hi all,

Don't get here as often as I would like. Frankly don't get to any of the boards as often as would like. Probably one of the few 1/32 types to peruse your stuff . . . Since this forum is primarily HO.

If missed anyone, not on purpose. Always try and visit where rides are posted. I know I appreciate my peers dropping by . . .

Anyhow . . .
- - - -
hellonwheels8, your link is broken, not sure what all you're into scale wise. . . Very nice rides anyway . . .

Zig, very cool rides. Especially like the CK Remy ride, very well done . . .

scj, nasty looking little bug, like what you did very cool . . .

joez870, love the bus, can’t find do that in my medium 1/32. Very nicely put out . . .

EBasil, very nice looking car, wish you had a slightly bigger pic of it, hard to see details, seems very good though . . .

Bill, as per usual very nicely done rides, of course lean toward the little coupe . . .

Jimmy, nice collection your showing this time, very nicely put out . . . Love the green on the Porsche ride . . .

Jwmoor, great details, really liking the engine and so forth. Gotta do me a drag car someday . . .

Gear buster, like oldies to begin with, very cool what you did to the rides . . . Nice, low, and mean . . .

Marty, lots of details on this car, nicely done . . . You have a steadier hand than I . . . Contrasting paint really sets if off . . .

Mtyoder, very nice cars, Humm, seems you like drop axles too, black Ford . . . Very nicely done on the Willys too, very good details . . . You build same rides as me, only different scale . . .

Micyou3, very cool Gulf rides, very good work as per usual, always liked, and still like Gulf race colors . . .

Alfaslot1, very nice winged rides, very nice details, right down to 410HP . . .

Coach61, very nicely put out racers, paint looks very good along with decals . . .

Goodness, you guys are prolific . . .

Had usual fun looking over your stuff . . . Again, if missed someone, sorry, wasn't deliberate . . .

Cheers,
Jas

Ohhh, that's looking great! Blue is my favourite colour :)

Look forward to seeing more.

Cheers

Richard

Richard,

Red is my favorite but, me and red cars have had some TOTALY bad accidents and went with Atomic Blue Metallic on my 2006 Honda Element. I know it's a box and everyone thinks it's ugly. I love it!

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/ablog1.jpg

Well I am know thinking about what I am going to do for a stripe. Think I am going to go with 2 white stripes down center and then melt it....Noooooooooooo Just had to show this melted AFX original. It brings tears to my eyes to see a perfectly good Camaro get destroyed like this. :cry: (don't look at me...got it like this)

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/acam1.jpg

Why Auto World ever picked this ugly green color? Ugly for a Chevy. A Mopar would look great in this color with a black hood. Well thanks AW because it made it possible for me to pick up a bunch (8) of these from Buds for $4.00 each and then strip them for paint. Wooooah that is what I am talking about!

These green #8s will be rare someday as I bet I am not the only one that is going to do this. Maybe not.... those pink JL pull-back bodies are no place on my want list anytime soon. They could have done a Caddy! Now that is hot in Pink.

Going to put the white stripes down the sides of the rear gas cap and then paint the detail. Will post pics when done.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/acam4.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/acam5.jpg

Always loved this body style of Camaro. Can remember as a kid telling my Dad that was going to get one when I was old enough to drive. He said good luck......never happened either. Although my Best friend from High School (Class of 1983) has (3) real 1/1 scale 68s. I get to drive in them and he had to spend all that $$$$$. Hey works for me.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/agguy2.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/agguy1.jpg

If you ever get a chance to go to a Good Guys Auto Show...DO IT! Last year we went to Kansas Speedway where they had a show. WOW! Got to ride in my friends red SS for a hot lap around the track. Zoooooooom baby!

I'll be back, Bob

Ohhh, that's looking great! Blue is my favourite colour :)

Look forward to seeing more.

Cheers

Richard

Need some clear coat put on Sunday and it will be done. Hey I did some thing this Saturday. Put 3 # circles deep on the roof to keep the paint from showing through and 2 on each door.

You know the green Camaro does kinda look good with the white rims. Maybe that is all the Auto World guys put these proto type bodies on when they are checking to see how they will look?

Got these rims from that Hong Kong guy that sells them with secret identity for his bidders. You get enough to do 3 t-jets and 3 AFX style cars but, I was 1 front AFX style rim short....Dang it. Don't realy care that these are white Lightning rims. Just got them because they look cool on certain cars with different color tires. :cool:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/acam6.jpg


Bob

Nice work Bob! Stripes, numbers look as crisp and sharp as the paint! Nice Looking Camero.

Coach!

Hi all,

Don't get here as often as I would like. Frankly don't get to any of the boards as often as would like. Probably one of the few 1/32 types to peruse your stuff . . . Since this forum is primarily HO.



Cheers,
Jas"primarily HO" . HO customs posted on the JL board (mine and others)inspried the creation of this Hobby talk members custom slot cars (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1938574#post1938574) board .But its not for HO only. ALL scales are welcome here.So post away!

Wow, the Camaro came up a treat! This was one of my first customs, but it's a racer not a shelf queen (as you may notice from the dents :) ). It's not pretty, but it's blue.

Heh

Richard

Wow, the Camaro came up a treat! This was one of my first customs, but it's a racer not a shelf queen (as you may notice from the dents :) ). It's not pretty, but it's blue.

Heh

Richard

Well it's like my Brother-in-Law says about Rental Cars....Drive it like you stole it........ http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?vid=352&fr= ......O.K. I am now going to race the B-Geses out of this #2 Camaro. No shelf Queen here baby! Ooooh, Oooooh I know....put a Tomy SRT chassis under it and let her rip....Bam a lamb a ding dong baby. This $4.00 body is gonna feel some Major Pain. lol

Bob

I gotta go with Coach on this car. Really nice stripes.

Lord knows I've screwed up enough stripes to just give up. LOL.

My stripes are always crooked and bleeding. Just like my fingers. :p

Keep'em comin' Bob :thumbsup:

I gotta go with Coach on this car. Really nice stripes.

Lord knows I've screwed up enough stripes to just give up. LOL.

My stripes are always crooked and bleeding. Just like my fingers. :p

Keep'em comin' Bob :thumbsup:

Here is one of my next projects. Have a couple of these and will just do one now. Bruce Gavins made this (BNBgoodies was Bad Dog before) I promise not to put up soooooo many pics anymore of one project. Just got kinda excited about this thread. It is like candy to me...I just want more. Last night I went from top to bottom of this thread and WOW!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tyco-S-slot-car-Trick-Truck-reproduction_W0QQitemZ230121347676QQihZ013QQcatego ryZ2619QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You are going to see a lot of BNBgoodies bodies painted up and customized by me here.

Breaking out the House of Kolors on this bad boy Tyco reproduction. First a base coat of Gama Gold and then some Translucent Orange. Have used these colors together on a 1/32 and the Orange just POPS! Going to try and replicate the Tyco Pro fade paint job on this.

I am an AFX slotter by heart but, when Bruce was doing Bad Dog slots Tyco seemed to be his main theme. Imagine that. I am helping Bruce see the AFX way...lent him a huge box of AFX stuff to make parts and bodies from. If there is anything you guys want made just drop Bruce a line via through his E-Bay contact seller link. He wants to know what people want and is ready to make it. Oooooh and you can get better prices on his bodies through directly contacting him. Check out his "me" page for all the bodies he makes.

I believe he sells most of his stuff for $12.50 and the flip ups go for a bit more. He had prices up on his "me" page but, E-bay told him to take them off. I never thought that they looked at "me" pages....Good thing URANUS is a planet or I would be in big trouble...lol

http://www.image4u.org/bobhch/asaturn1.jpg

Bob

Painted this Willy's up a couple of days ago with House of Kolor color changing paint. You guys have to try this paint. Pics. don't do this justice. First I used a silver base coat, then Pavo Purple, which went on dark purple metallic but, lightened up after the coat of Caribbean Surf was applied. Painted the detail, just a few small decals and clear coated it. Now will have to try different variations of this paint job. They say to use dark colors under the Caribbean Surf paint to get best results. Will try some Metalic Red next probably and they also have another color changing paint that is called Purple Passion.

These paints are only available at Wal Mart and online at www.kustomkolorproducts.com

Also going to try Caribbean Surf over Planet Green. Gamma Gold is a fantastic base coat for Transparent Tangerine!!! Lots of posibilities with these paints. So far have about 30 different bottles of this stuff....so far.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/gplus3.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/gplus4.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/gplus5.jpg

My Iwana airbrush has never been so happy, Bob

Joe, There's no trick to painting! The trick is unpainting when you farg one up. Some days I paint better with a bomb can than I do other days with my
Iwatta. :rolleyes:

I always keep a bowl of mineral spirits handy if things go awry. A quick swim and a scrub with a soft nylon toothbrush. Then a hot water scrub with Spic and Span, Comet or Bon Ami and a blow dry gets me back to square one. Doh!

Yes! I fudgem up regularly, at least every second or third one, but I gong any fisheye, dryspot, dust spec, or run. I'm super picky, hence the cleaning system at the ready.

Heck Joe, just point and shoot like a Polaroid. If your gonna paint annoying little crap like HO cars get a decent air brush and you'll be miles ahead. It's a simple matter to acquire the feel for the air and fluid ratio. I always paint something first like card board, plastic whatever; in case the gun misfires, or I've doofed the paint to thick or thin. Just like a real car, cut in the under body, wheel wells, jams or problem areas at lesser volume. Once it's flashed off open the volume and complete a smooth even top coat.

For bomb can painting I like Duplicolor or Krylon. Always save the nozzles if you've got one with good atomization and pattern/fan before you toss the can. There's a lot of variation in the nozzle metering so when I get a good one I flush it and save it. Sounds dumb but beautiful colors still look like crap when sprayed through a chunky soup nozzle.

Would that we could all paint like Jimmy (VJ)

Hey, Bill. I too have screwed up more than my share of paint jobs and I have to say the best way to strip it all off is Easy Off oven cleaner. Takes EVERYTHING off. Usually an overnight soak and everything will rinse off the next morning. Also, I recently found Soft Scrub to be an excellent cleaner, especially for new resin casts.

As far as paint goes, I started using Pactra Racing Finish years ago doing Lexan bodies and found that it also sticks well to polystyrene and resin. (when it's cleaned well) And best of all it coats VERY thin with good color, very important if you want all those details to show through. I've tried some others but haven't been that impressed.

Here's some of my latest projects in various states of finish: (Thanks to HellonWheels8, B&B Goodies, andawnie and Alphaslot1 for the bodies)

Mayhem, dig your cars!

I use easy off on ancient paintjobs. There's been a lot of discusion about easy off's tendency to brittle-ize and or melt/distort bodies. I've found this to be true as you move up the scale of cleaner causticity. They all have some form of caustic in the formula. I rekon if you do enough of this your bound to melt one down. I always start with the fly swatter and move progressively up the cleaner list till I get to the bazooka. I've been pretty lucky. I've found a trick for revitalizing styrene bods that I cook with easy off.

I only use the mineral spirits or turpentine to remove jobs that are fubar when they're wet or reasonably fresh.

Paint brand doesnt much matter to me as long as it lays flat with good control and drys fast. If it still prints the next day it's junk! I dont care who makes it. Basically it's about the volitals in the paint. Too much and it affects the plastic bodies, too little and you dont get good adhesion. I'll give the Pactra a whirl. Thanks for the tip!

I havent been overly impressed with the metallics. In general I find the chunks to big to pass scale scrutiny. They are getting better. For lexans I use water based acrylics, which I hate BTW LOL. If I botch one, they soak off pretty good with warm soap and water.

Lately I've been off in my own little world working with sprayable styrene and havent painted conventionally on a slot for some time. The original finish appeals to me in that it is extremly durable, super high gloss, sandable, buffable and low cost other than reducer. I sorta fell down the rabbit hole and liked the results.

Just won this...Can you say Sweet and Cheap?!!!! T-Jet will go under this bad boy...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110121179072

The rain has stopped here in Nebraska and we are getting a heat wave. Gotta go paint while the kids run through the sprinklers!!!! Bob

P.S. Need to paint a 55 yellow.....Yes!

Mayhem, dig your cars!

I use easy off on ancient paintjobs. There's been a lot of discusion about easy off's tendency to brittle-ize and or melt/distort bodies. I've found this to be true as you move up the scale of cleaner causticity. They all have some form of caustic in the formula. I rekon if you do enough of this your bound to melt one down. I always start with the fly swatter and move progressively up the cleaner list till I get to the bazooka. I've been pretty lucky. I've found a trick for revitalizing styrene bods that I cook with easy off.

I only use the mineral spirits or turpentine to remove jobs that are fubar when they're wet or reasonably fresh.

Paint brand doesnt much matter to me as long as it lays flat with good control and drys fast. If it still prints the next day it's junk! I dont care who makes it. Basically it's about the volitals in the paint. Too much and it affects the plastic bodies, too little and you dont get good adhesion. I'll give the Pactra a whirl. Thanks for the tip!

I havent been overly impressed with the metallics. In general I find the chunks to big to pass scale scrutiny. They are getting better. For lexans I use water based acrylics, which I hate BTW LOL. If I botch one, they soak off pretty good with warm soap and water.

Lately I've been off in my own little world working with sprayable styrene and havent painted conventionally on a slot for some time. The original finish appeals to me in that it is extremly durable, super high gloss, sandable, buffable and low cost other than reducer. I sorta fell down the rabbit hole and liked the results.

I have been known to leave a body in it's original color, if it's a collector car and it's condition 8 or better. Honestly I never think the molded in colors ever look quite right. Besides, I'd much rather get a resin cast or a C-7 car and make it what I want.

As for Easy off melting bodies, I left a Tyco Porsche 914 in a sealed tub for 4 days once, forgot I put it in there, This was the end result:

Bill- That is pretty neat how you left that Tyco Porshe in the easy off for so long and got 3 cars out of it! jk
Jim

Bill- That is pretty neat how you left that Tyco Porshe in the easy off for so long and got 3 cars out of it! jk
Jim
Bill has special slot car powers beyond the normal mind.

Bill- That is pretty neat how you left that Tyco Porshe in the easy off for so long and got 3 cars out of it! jk
JimBut it wasn't Bill. :D

Actually that was the only shot of the 914 I had. And that was before I detailed it.

Suffice it to say after 4 days in the caustic vat of Easy Off it suffered no damage at all. In my oppinion it looks better now than the original paint. But that was covered up by a metalic brown and thus the reason for stripping it.

Jim: I'd love to take credit for Mayhem's fine work! But sadly my conscience wont allow it. Besides, he caught it before I could accept. ;)

Mayhem: Seen my Deuce rumbler yet? That poor little hotrod had enough blue paint on it to mask all detail including the grill. Then someone added white and red to complete the bicentennial glob look. :freak:

It soaked in easy off for almost four days too! Must have been the same guy that painted on your 914! :rolleyes:

That's an interesting car you have on the left. I've never seen an HO scale version of the "Moby Dick" 935. Someones cast I presume? :thumbsup:

Ed: Your killin' me! I aquired most of my so called special powers right here at Hobby Talk. It came with the lifetime membership. You didnt get your combination super power/decoder ring when you signed up? :confused:

Jim: I'd love to take credit for Mayhem's fine work! But sadly my conscience wont allow it. Besides, he caught it before I could accept. ;)

Mayhem: Seen my Deuce rumbler yet? That poor little hotrod had enough blue paint on it to mask all detail including the grill. Then someone added white and red to complete the bicentennial glob look. :freak:

It soaked in easy off for almost four days too! Must have been the same guy that painted on your 914! :rolleyes:

That's an interesting car you have on the left. I've never seen an HO scale version of the "Moby Dick" 935. Someones cast I presume? :thumbsup:



The "Moby Dick" (actually the Moby Dick had a much longer tail) is the 935 K3. It is in fact a resin cast by Andy Abbott in England. He has a couple available on ebay right now. Aurora AFX did one very similar to it in their Japanese only release "S" series cars.

Ideal also did a version of the squared rear 935. I have one of those as well.

http://www.rpm.com.au/911/assets/images/mmoby_dick.jpg
The 935/78 Moby dick was so named because it had more tail than Moby Dick and was the origin of the phrase "Whale Tail".

BTW: Bill - I have seen your Deuce it's a brilliant idea. I have had similar ideas in the past but I like to race all my cars I have decided that sort of thing is too fragile to run and therefore not a good idea for me. I'm dying to see the final result though.

Yeah Mayhem I'm just lazy and used the MD term loosely to describe anything after the Martini Turbo RSR's including the Kremmer's and all the other whatnot aero 935 derivatives that followed, when the body work got really stretched out. Just unusual to see a nifty slot version!

The 'lil deuces are tough as nails Mayhem! You'd be surprised. I purposely tumble every one of the little buggers regularly during the build. Wall plants and floor dives are an important part of my R&D program. When finished they are basically half a plastic easter egg. One of natures strongest designs.

The side fills reinforce the weak hood/nose joint at the cowl and tie the flimsy rockers to the nose. They are unibody! The super thin rear apron is reinforced by doubling the thickness. The modified coupe roofs are basically a solid four point cage. It's all chemically bonded. The rear of the rumble version is double thickness due to the guide mechanism for the lid, and the rumbler's shaved rear post is gussetted

The roadster glass is silcone mounted underneath for the tearaway rather than the breakaway effect. I make'm robust to race'm. If they cant survive a spectacular crash or an accidental drop, it'll get reworked. So far out of two coupes and two roadsters I have yet to crack/break anything related to the base tub. Sure you may bust a pipe or windsheild at some point, but that's just racin.

They are tested by the "Samsonite Gorilla".

No shelf queens allowed at my 'lil deuce factory! LOL

The 'lil deuces are tough as nails Mayhem! ...

Oooops! My turn with the red face. I was talking about your rumble seat. With my luck I'd have a gorgeous paint job on it and screw it up breaking the rumble seat off in the first corner. :D

Hopefully never happen Mayhem! I always factor in my wreckless driving style when I build. You can bet good money if I'm in top coat that body has been smacked around pretty good beforehand. :rolleyes:

The rumble lid, seats into a relief between the chassis and the gear plate and is further supported by the thick, hidden pivots. The outer portion of the lid butts up against the rear panel when open. Over two thirds of the lid is supported solidly across the bottom, across the back, and at the pivots.

I havent seen any evidence and dont believe that the remaining top third of the exposed lid can exert enough force/leverage to bust it loose in crash conditions. Although not really evident in the latest pics the lid sits at a slight rearward angle (10 degrees or so just like the 1:1 cars) when it's opened and at rest against the body proper.

If you dig back to the early pics, you'll see some through the rear fender views showing how the lid settles into a naturally locked/reinforced position. It snaps tight when closed and settles open with two thirds of it's total surface area protected. Should it get whacked from behind, it just closes up like a sowbug. :tongue:

I spent extra time making sure it was both functional and shock proof. That was really the goal. It's more like the bullet proof shield on the trunk of 007's Aston Martin. :thumbsup:

So far it's survived countless cartwheels and barrelrolls.

Sure you could bust it, but I think you'd have to use a club. LOL

OK Bill, it's not a custom, but it's on the way to being a better restoration than I could have hoped for. I decided I had nothing to lose with this car and went all out with the goo. Bought this old Willys cheap on fleabay, looked basicly uncut and straight but drowned in blue paint. When I got the paint off it looked like the roof had been scored with an emory board and/or a knife, deeply scratched and roughed all over the top. Applied the Testors liberally just to see how it would smooth things out, a few days later went over it with the micromesh.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/willys_restore_2_002.jpg

I've got a little more to do, still traces of blue paint here and there, but the roof looks like it has been clearcoated! Got to love the goo!

Jeff

Kudo's Jeff, I'll bet my paycheck that afterwards you were laughin' at how easy it really is. :p

Ya just gotta be patient. ;)

Hog a puddle on the roof, smear it around a little bit, wait for it to cure, sand and buff. Kick back and admire your work. :cool:

After seeing your sweet lid repair using the glazing technique, hopefully more guys will plunge into the sauce. :rolleyes:

You've now taken the first step and got the first goo jitters behind you. You've learned how to relocate plastic, and put it where you want it.

With outstanding results I might add! :thumbsup:

May seem "goopid" but I'm excited for you! There's no limit to watchyoo can do with the goo!

Aurora Wild Ones Mustang fastback retro paint scheme on a 2005 Mustang GT. Fits the Aurora TJet chassis.

http://www.gm454dragbodies.com/images/Wild_Ones_7_05_stang_for_scaleracers.jpg

Bobhch, Very nice recovery you have there on the Camaro. Paint and stripes are truly good. Very nice details. See further down my longish post about “Salvage” board. Your Camaro would be a perfect fit.

Have to admit, like oldies period. Great looking Willys as well. Very nicely done on the paint, looks way cool. Need to show more pics. Thanks for the paint tip W-Mart … will have to give it a go . . .

Sidebar: Sometimes use dye in clear paints for over coats of say, white or off white base. Will be doing one down the road. Add dye as I go and can go from, light candy red, to medium, to dark from say front to rear of ride. Not novel in paint schemes, per se, but a different, neat looking approach. Once one gets used to doing it, can actually feather fenders on oldies, dark middle to light edges, for example.

Digressing, sorry about that . . . There’s an example of a red 32-Ford done posted in HT FWIIWD using a different paint scheme approach. Especially from the front angle pic, the paint scheme really shows.

As for screwing up paint jobs, oh my, do I. But, also get lucky and get some decent outcomes as well . . . Wrong thread, but there are interesting means of getting results from water based versus petro based paints, making it easier to do certain tricks . . .

As for paint removal. Sometimes use brake fluid, soaking for a short period, then final brushing with a toothbrush. Since is water-soluble and won’t mess with skin. Find it one of my favs. Most any medium will starch plastic if left in too long. Minerals … always use with big time discretion . . .

If you use water base paint, try Clear to remove that paint. Getting chatty, keep reading posts and well . . .

Splitposter, Humm, another Willys, green no less, darn. Just kidding, one of my favorites rides to do. Also do green cars. Have lots of red, silver, blue rides, et cetera. Very nice recovery there as well. Another candidate for a “Salvage” board? Paint looks real good from here.

Love it when someone “salvages” what someone else might simply throw away. Sometimes part of the challenge. Bringing back to life a “tired” dog-eared multi-paint, multi coated ride, multi 80 grit sand job. Can be very rewarding. Seems some just don’t get it. Initial light sanding beats filing gouges, and then sanding some more, every time. Nice go . . .

As intimated, frankly, would be neat to have a board, with BEFORE and after pics of salvage rides done. Meaning proof, hence the before pic, showing decrepit ride. Then showing after pics of salvage job done.

Every once in a while I’ll see a local or someone else, take sow’s ear and make it into silk purse. When viewing same, my respect and resultant admiration grows, big time. Some rides in this thread fit that billing nicely.

Have an oldie Willys I did that was truly screwed up by several guys. Each one seemingly trying to mess it up more than the guy before them : ) Finally, last guy was ready to toss it literally … I intercepted it, and well . . . Took time, but got a decent result. Getting chatty again . . .

GM454, assuming you did all the detail, like around tail lights, very nicely done. Really, like the white base too. Not enough done in white. Great detailing . . . Nice job all round . . .

As said in many a post, always amazed at what you guys do in HO. I have enough trouble with 1/32 . . . Good show all . . .

If missed someone, not deliberate. As always, love what you guys do . . .

Cheers,
Jas

some more nice rides!! keep it going, guys ... :)

Scratch, the grill details, lower air dam vents, and gas cap were hand painted. the head lights, tail lights and all other details are waterslide decals that I made. The first few of these Mustangs that I made had painted tail lights but they look much cleaner with the decals...my hand wasn't steady enough to paint the small black lines around the tail lights. Plus the decals are easier and quicker to do than hand painting them.

Awsome Mustang. Love the theme.

Here's a reto/current theme I did in 1/43rd a couple years ago.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2007-05%20Slots/04-03-05MustangTA04.jpg

Awsome Mustang. Love the theme.

Here's a reto/current theme I did in 1/43rd a couple years ago.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2007-05%20Slots/04-03-05MustangTA04.jpg


Like those old Mustangs...Sometime i wonder if 1/43rd would be a good fit.. then I go naaa.. but when the peepers start to fail its a goo direction to point the ole airbrush..


Coach

Got a order in from Our own Hellen. I pushed aside the others begging attention on the bench to do this Porsche gt1 Love the fit and finish she got on this body it was easy to prep and easy to assemble when done... Thanks Hellen!


Dave

As intimated, frankly, would be neat to have a board, with BEFORE and after pics of salvage rides done. Meaning proof, hence the before pic, showing decrepit ride. Then showing after pics of salvage job done.

Scratch, I think you're right. Unfortunately, "restoring to stock," which I like to do, is neat but doesn't demonstrate the creativity if not the skill put into the customs pictured here. Still, I would like to see the Mike Vitale techniques shown in a step-by-step manner too.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/t_bird_in_progress_001.jpg

Here is a 63 T-Bird that I have cleaned and removed windshield residue from, only had half a rear screw post so a new piece was cut and glued, gooing comes next. Not a difficult restoration at all, but the end product will hopefull look like a C8 or C9 when done.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/medium/t_bird_in_progress_002.jpg

Cool Jeff!

Do you need some tan scrap to cook up? I can send you a carcass to chip up. Send me your addy.

For the chunked out post repair I generally buck them off and leave a small cup/seat at the base. The new post is beveled to self center in the original post. If possible I measure another car to size the new length.

Mount your new post on a slave chassis and mount the body, make any necessary adjustments. I always err to the long side as you can hone a bit off later if you're too tall.

If your satisfied with the fit, thoroughly wet the seat and tapered end of the post with testors, and carefully remount the slave chassis. I just hold it for a few minutes and check that nothing has slipped. Then I clamp or rubberband it for a day.

Once it's dry use a little brushable goo to contour the repair. Remember to keep clean testors at the ready to smooth the brushable filler and blend the entire post. Very similar to how you smoothed your Willy's roof. With very little practice you can accomplish a near invisable post repair with no sanding or fuss. It's been my experience that by using this method your post repairs will be sturdy, nicely contoured, and seamless. Often times you'll execute a partial post repair and find that it was bent/tweaked when it was broken in the first place. Then the chassis and body will be cockeyed. By remounting the entire post you can compensate for body warpage/shrinkage as the taper will allow for slight angle changes that may be required to square things up.

If you continue with the chunk repair method be sure to wind a screw in it now or youll more than likely split it when you finally get around to it. Prewet the area and again use some thick brushable making sure to work it in deep. Then contour/glaze the entire post with clean testors so there's no big lumps to sand and the entire post is uniform in color. Keep it workably wet but not swimming, where the testors is running away from the repair area. Shrinkage is a given, so repeat the process every evening until you get a good even fill. The screw will wind out with little difficulty. I usually leave them in till the repair is cured so the hole center doesnt shrink up. It's a good idea to check and ream the hole before you blast a screw into it!

Although Vitale shows several methods for post repair, the tapered replacement method is always my first choice for anything other than a minor split or chunk. I have also use this method for partial post repairs or add ons with great success. It's very solid and allows for maximum surface contact at the bond site. In my mind it'sthe least amount of fiddling around for maximum results. I havent had one fail yet.

Perhaps the best part is that if you contour/blend carefully you wont have the obvious discolored spot repair that we so often see in screw posts.

So by the numbers,

1 Zing out the offending post with the cutoff wheel

2 Buzz the seat down with a smooth flat stone

3 Prefit new tapered post and glue it in. Use only testors! Always!

4 Fill the repair area as required

5 Contour and blend the entire post

6 Yer done!

Bill, thanks for the offer, I have a donor tan Maserati, warped and split on the ends where it looks like it got too close to an inferno (but with a perfect windshield and greenhouse, go figure) that supplies chunks.

Already have run the screw in and test mounted the body, the aim is a very stock looking repair. Don't know that I'll have time to fool with this again until next weekend, but I am looking forward to seeing how close I can get to undetectable.

Unfortunately I don't have a windshield for this car - maybe I can buy a wreck or a "glass lot" at some point. So I guess it will be Model Motoring or RRR.

This has been in the works on and off for over a week now. Daughter is learning to ride a bike so, that is that. Tonight I put on the decals and scraped the paint for glue on the engine (used Chrome Alclad over gloss black) and the rest of the spots to be glued were covered with Poster Putty for easy assembly.

One coat of Clear was applied after painting yellow and gray and then just left it alone to dry for several days. Now decals can dry for a day and then get a light coat of clear and then a couple more coats. Thinking of painting the ramp truck next to match with smaller 85 #s on the back sides.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/a85.jpg

This is a BNBgoodies body and the quality is just as good as the Tyco it is a reproduction after. Have 3 more of these to do up in paint. The next one will be a pickup version with some custom work done on it and another will be a 2 seater style roadster. I have a bunch of Rat Rod mags in the garage and am going to stay in the 30s and 40s for a while... Bill made me do it. lol

My Badman 55 is on the back shelf till I get these roadsters out of my system and on the track. The VW images in my head are talking to me and may be next...Seeing as I just bought 4 SRT Indy chassis that work perfect for the Bug like in my photo gallery. Oh and have bodies aready also...then have some Tyco VW bodies also. Warning: Don't drive an old 60s or 70s style bug or you will always want to drive another one someday again.

Have only been here a short while and sometimes get busy but, it is always good to stop back here and see what you are all up to.

Thanks everyone for beeing slot car aholics, Bob

Well since I have some clear coat to spray on my roadster. I decaled up my Herbie tonight. Getting better at having the kids around when doing detail work. Our 3 year old Son was practicly hanging on my back and looking over my shoulder. He likes cars....that's my boy!! Our 5 year old Daughter is excited about Herbie also. Got her the pink chrome Superbird and threw some Aluminum AJs on with some pink tires. She is a girly girl who likes cars.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aherby.jpg

Just got a custom SARGE jeep on a TYCO chassis from the bay in the mail today. I made a Tom Matter but, don't see these other pullback plastic bodies for the movie CARS in the stores here in Nebraska. Well the kids want to race so to the basement we go.

Bob

Snip*...... I have a bunch of Rat Rod mags in the garage and am going to stay in the 30s and 40s for a while... Bill made me do it lol. Snip*......... Bob

Oh gee thanks Bob! :rolleyes:

Part of the healing process is accepting responsibilty for your addictions and afflictions and refusing to live in denial. Now your gonna have to make ammends to me later. :p

Hoo boy I can hear it now, "But mom! Bill made me smoke a cigarette! He said it'd be cool.... And then he made me straight shoot cheap Voldka and chase it with Welches grape juice and I hurled in the backseat of of the Impala!
Then I made a bunch of cool slotrods instead of doing my chores and it's all his fault."

"Ring, Ring, Ring" Mrs Hall? Yes. This is Bob's Mom! Your #%^&*#@ son led my Bob astray....

Like my Mom dont know! :tongue: snicker

This is a factual documentary, the names were changed to protect the innocent.

Just cop to being a gearhead Bob, or we're gonna have an intervention! :lol:

BTW: Nice paintwork, cool fade, impressive as always!

*snip

Hoo boy I can hear it now, "But mom! Bill made me smoke a cigarette! He said it'd be cool.... And then he made me straight shoot cheap Voldka and chase it with Welches grape juice and I hurled in the backseat of of the Impala!
Then I made a bunch of cool slotrods instead of doing my chores and it's all his fault.

Just cop to being a gearhead Bob, or we're gonna have an intervention! :lol:

I gotta blame SplitPost for this Willys. That green one you saved looks great.

Bill, RALMAO...O.K. a HUGE gearhead am I. My X-knife (changed the name a little) decided to take off the rear bumper and rear license plate for a smooth look and then it also decided to clear off the front grill. My fine sandpaper cleaned things up nicely but, not before my hand held drill and bits put 5 holes in the front.

Oooooh then my airbrush decided to pick out some Bad Arse colors and sprayed them all over the place. First a base coat of Gama Gold. Next Transparent Tangerine with a splash of Transparent red. These pics don't even do this paint job justice. Gotta go look at it one more time before going to bed....hooked, line and sinkered got it bad gearhead.

Guilty as charged...gearhead extreme. Maybe I should blame my Mom but, realy my Dad put all this crazy car stuff into my head (Now a retired Draftsman for the Corps of Engineers, he built lots of detailed car models and tought me a few things along the way...Thanks Dad!!) back in the 70s...Oh how did you know I smoked Kool Cigs...cough, cough...Everclear and Grape Hi-C once way back when. :drunk: :hat:



http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/awill1.jpghttp://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/awill2.jpg

Well who knows what this weekend will bring. There is this realy cool Green :wave: (hello Kool green colored paint) color I want to spray, Bob

I've always been a Herbie fan since I saw the first movie at a drive-in... but the Roadster and the Willys ... well now yer talking. Got any other white-booted vintage cars you've worked -over? Anybody? Always love to see that stuff.

nuther dave :thumbsup:

Your on a great tear Bob and it's fun to watch. I'm in a bit of a slump my self, trying to get the yard in shape and other annoying crud.

Interesting side note 'bout your Dad, My pop did 33yrs in the Corps of Engineers. If it couldnt be fixed with a slice of innertube or ford wire it wasnt worth doing. He was a Badger (UW) but mom always said he must have taken a corospondence in Arkansas engineering..... Apologies to the Razorbacks!

Your work is inspiring to say the least. It's what I love about this great Board, always something new, and the various angles guys take to get there.

I'm sure a lot of guys would like to see some "How To" intel on your nifty airbrush techniques. I know I would!

B.

As intimated, frankly, would be neat to have a board, with BEFORE and after pics of salvage rides done. Meaning proof, hence the before pic, showing decrepit ride. Then showing after pics of salvage job done.

Scratch, I think you're right. Unfortunately, "restoring to stock," which I like to do, is neat but doesn't demonstrate the creativity if not the skill put into the customs pictured here. Still, I would like to see the Mike Vitale techniques shown in a step-by-step manner too......

Here ya go Jeff.
This 'birds problem is pretty common. Fortunately the lids not bent.

First thing is to trim things up smooth with your knife and maybe a little file work.

A scrap strip is cut from bulk and basic detail is scribed in. Then it's cut into two chunks and bevel cut on the ends to match the roof and cowl angles.

I like to use the tension of the roof to hold/clamp the post in place. Just take a little off with the file until it jams in without geeking the roof up.

Both the post and post locations on the body are lightly wet with brushable goo. Dont use straight glue or you'll have a line when it dries!

Once the goo flashes off, lightly brush the entire area with straight testors to blend and smooth. Then flip it over and repeat the process for the underside.

Note that the goo does not extend below the cowl onto the fender.

This car has some serious roof chunks missing too. Once your satisfied with your glazing and its had a bit to tack up to the point where it wont move/reactivate with straight testors, you can start puddling in those gruesome notches on the roof.

Always approach from an angle that allows excess to run into a safe area, invert the body, lay it on it's side, whatever. Use a good drop of the brushable on the end of the brush and just barely touch it in the hole your trying to fill. Maintain surface tension so that the drop touches the body but still hangs on the brush. Stretch it out and tease it back and forth without breaking the drop. It will start to stick and fill. Let this set a bit and once it's flashed repeat until you get some fill. You'll note the I stopped short of a complete fill. It's best to allow 48 hrs of cure at this point as it will shrink and require more attention later. It's also very easy to get it too wet and have the fill vanish or distort.

Once I've got things in place, I carefully glaze and smooth the whole mess into one continuous wet blend by carefully using straight testors. Too wet and you wash away the fill you worked hard to put down, too dry and your brush will leave lines or drag stuff where you didnt want it to go. This takes some practice.

Your basically working with both bottles open at all times, and should be prepared to quickly change from one to the other depending on what you see. If you've got too much fill, globs, or runs, use the slightly damp testors brush to pickup/remove excess fill. If you over drag it or it disappears into a crack be prepared to add more fill and reglaze till it lays down smooth and fills the crack. If you make an errant drop, spill, mistake, run; dont get rattled! Just use the damp testors brush to smooth it, and buff it out down the road just like your Willy's roof.

The pics reflect about and hours time. I'll let this sit for a couple days, At that point I'll nock it around with the file, maybe a little 1200 and rescribe the driprails before I repeat the process to correct any shrinkage or misses. Once you get the shape you want set it aside again, After a good cure use a fine file to thin the posts to the proper size all the while fitting the glass periodically till it looks right. Then you can start wet sanding to feather in any weird spots.

More in a few days. Got to do a minor fix on the rear post as well!

Bill, that is amazing, I wish I had the talent and patience to do the window post repair thingy, I had mike vitales book but still could not figure it out.

Bill, that is amazing, I wish I had the talent and patience to do the window post repair thingy, I had mike vitales book but still could not figure it out.

Bill I gotta agree with Seth here. AMAZING! I many try your method in the future but right now got projects on the board and they have no damage....well till I start Sawing and hacking away.

As for an Air Brush how to. I can do that in the near future. Lots of people probably already know how to do blends but, some may not. It is all about having your car body (or truck) mounted securely and moving it at extream angles to only get the paint on certain surfaces.

Also I do not have a regulator on my Airbrush. A nice little trick is to loosen the air line to your brush a bit for a fine light spray for hitting edge or small areas.

Also you can use Flat paint and then take a dry brush and wipe away Flat paint dust for a nice fade. Then you hit it with clear coat and Bam there you go. Now you have a Gloss color. I need to get some non-gloss clear coat for some old school flat paint jobs. Might make it to the Hobby Store today in fact! :cool:

I will also be posting up a picture of my White VW thing that I did way back later today. To paint this I used Poster Putty. You know that blue or yellow stuff that holds posters on the wall without putting holes in the wall. Will go into more detail later.

Am selling off my 1/32 stuff on the Bay but, would much rather be painting and cusomizing ho stuff today. Dang it :cry: . Need money for Vegas Vacation next month and want to get some more BNBgoodies and maybe some RRR bodies as well. Is RRR easy to work with? :confused:

Bob

I'll add a pic of my Dash Cheetahs here.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2007-05%20Slots/05-19-07DashCheetahs01a.jpg

Bill, that is amazing, I wish I had the talent and patience to do the window post repair thingy, I had mike vitales book but still could not figure it out.

Ed: I had Mikes book also, and floundered around for 6 months.
I have one of those alphabet personalities...ADD, OCD, so I'm easily frustrated when things dont work correctly.

This is NOT to say that Mike's technique doesnt work! It works great! As carreer 1:1 car guy I did find it tedious and sought to apply production techniques to the process.

The birth of brushable filler took me a while but the sprayable mix was a no brainer, Duh!

The basic Vitale method is easy, IE spot repairs and post repairs. Just takes minutes! The part they dont tell ya is that the more advanced sectioning and blending of parts requires some practice and above all careful planning. Learning to avoid working in problem areas is the trick.

I call it the Goucho Marx philosophy. "Does it hoit when you do dat?" "Den dont do dat!"

Realistically the most important tool I have is the "Mr. Roboto" articulated hobby clamp. It allows me to use gravity to control goo flow or quickly change positions without touching the body. Ultimately it frees up your hands so you can quickly switch back and forth from brushable to straight testors. I like to use the long Volks screws to keep the 'gator clip out of the way (providing you even have posts, LOL) so I can get under and behind things. It'll keep your fingers out of the goo. I guarantee you'll stick your finger in it occasionally.

For big sections, I just hackem out with the dykes, and rough trim with the dremel cutoff wheel, taking care to cut directionally so the curl/fuzz stays on the backside of the panel. The repair section is underlayed and lightly scribed with the point of your #2 blade. Then I just rub my finger over the scribe line. There's usually enough grungous on my fingers that the scribe line will stand right out. That's your "nogo!" line. Depending on how close I am to the line I carefully dremel to within 1mm of the line or cut it off with the blade if there's not too much material. Now put the powertools away!

If you dont have a small sharp file set, get one. The replacement piece is handfiled until the grunge line just starts to cut away. At this point I start checking fit. Think twice and file once until the piece fits perfect. Lightly wet the body and the section with brushable and smoosh it together, be ready to smooth it inside and outside with testors before it sets up. There will be oozing and globs! Waaay easier then sanding later.

Little pieces are rough cut with the blade and handfiled to a tension fit. This is due to the fact that when you wet the piece to glue it in, it will soften/get smaller. Careful tension fits can really cut the frustration factor when setting little it's and bitties. Makin' little stuff is quick, getting it in place is the annoying part.

Keep an eye on things for a bit in case it creeps, so you can shove it back before it's too late. If you shove a wrinkle or crease into the filler just smooth it with testors or add a bit of brushable and resmooth if you've really boogered it up. Ideally your section will be flush on all corners and roughly feathered when your done.

Dont even think about it! Walk away for two days before you even touch it!
Go build a chassis, strip chrome, polish the windshield or start roughing out another car. Just fu-geda-bowdit.

There will be mistakes, I make them regularly. Dont panic, damp brush the boo boo and live to fight again when it's dry. It's not a big deal to correct a blem down the road.

Bobhch, Very nice looking rides, especially the Willys, partial to such. Herbie is cool as well ... shoot they’re all cool. Seems can’t go wrong doing one of them. Really like the paint scheme on the Willys, nicely done . . .

Micyou03, Saw these in another thread, as there, very nicely put out. Can’t go wrong with Cheetahs either. Seems they appear right at home on your Artin track.

Splitposter, the Before & After thread idea might have been too much. In that recovery from junk, to nice, is as you said, not customizing. Even though the skill level is just as high or higher.

I modify cars to death, and have salvage more than a few. To me the salvage effort is tougher than modifying, customizing what have you. Lowering a roof, or channeling a body is not super simple.

Yet, taking a trashed body and making it sound again, is, as said, a tougher job in my book. Looking forward to your 'Bird.

Anyhow, probably enough "threads," no need for more : )

Nice rides ... this portion of the thread as per usual . . .

Cheers,
Jas

O.K. plan on starting a new thread on painting and removing chrome from the JL pullback chassis rims. I can't find new thread on the top or bottom of my screen page. Aaaaaah so, here is a pick till I figure it out. Took tons of pictures...dang it all to heck!

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/arims1.jpg

Just painted these up with my Airbrush today and hand painted the whitewalls on with a brush. The front rims have a weird flat edge and it works well for this affect but, the rears don't so just left them black walls. Rat Rod baby!

I can't remember if it was Ed or Videojimmy who posted here someplace that you can use Tomys hollow tires on these rims? http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1946189#post1946189 Went and found out...Videojimmy to the rescue...Thanks cause that is what I did here. They are a better tire and a little bit larger. Yeah baby! :cool:

Bob

bobhch,

Darn nice job on the 57. Very good details, especially considering it being HO size and all.

At first thought was over done. But when taking a good second look, works very well . . .

Cheers,
Jas

i dont do many custom bodies, mostly i tune chassis and buy finished bodies. here are some 512s i did in colors aurora should have used (except maybe the orange, i havent decided if i like that one or not...). i used spray cans and then a dip in future

Keep'em coming guys.

BTW Mike... I love that yellow 512. You're right... they should have done it. Some colors make so much sense and yet others go into production...sigh!!