Just simple resistors, one for each pair of LEDs, And one for the flasher LED. The problem with using multiple LEDs is you're limited to the bodies you can use. That's why I'm stuck with mini lindy vans and fire trucks. I really need to focus on the fiber optic/LED receptacle and either mold the tail lights for the cars or use red fiber optic. As far as the resistors needed, search for a resistor calculator on the web, and you need to know the voltage drop(usage of the LED). And a couple more things... LEDs only work on DC and they have to be hooked up with the correct polarity. Generally, the longer leg is positive. And the left pick up on the slotcar is usually positive too. Too much voltage and they fry very quickly...found that out the hard way!!:rolleyes: Hope this info helps!! guten tag!! Joe

That is exactly what I have been shooting for Bill, but the casting resin and the silicone mold making stuff always seems to be one paycheck away. The biggest issue is the need for alot of light to make the optics work with out the Rudolph effect (having the whole nose of the car glowing. :cool: I'll get it eventually..all things take time...:thumbsup:

Dunno if ya caught this or not,

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=2533670#post2533670

...sort of a rough idea of where I'm at. I have the plumbing, and fab techniques pretty well sussed...as far as it goes. What I need is a small zener diode in white and the correct drop resistor....er so the poindexters at my local old school electronics repair shop told me. Best quick ticket for me is the Flamethrower chassis cuz the doo hickeys for hook up are already in place. Once ya got all the R&D crud out of the way one can simply solder them to the hanger plates of a standard chassis and drill holes for wire routing.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/8FD015E-6445-4424-AB5A-D9934C95ECF9.jpg

The rudolph effect is nulified by fabricating a shrouded initiator (for lack of a better term). The diode, acrylic manifold if necessary, and or optic whips are entombed in shrink tubing. The drop resistor can be outboard of this arrangement.

The above image is a pile of bitties for the Hot Rod Lincoln. It was a contest car from last year in which I bit off more than I could chew timewise given a catastrophic failure with optic fibers and CA. Ignore the window inserts and side pipes and you'll see two long wiskers with small red dots on one end. There are also two head lamp buckets with short whips on them. The lens portion of the bucket is polished while it is still on the raw acylic stalk ...pert near impossible to polish a tiny widget like that after it's been pared away from the parent stalk. Once the face is polished the bucket is cut from the stalk. The polished surface is scratched vertically North to South using a fine jewlers saw or 80 grit paper on straight, ONE gentle pass at a time, checking after every pass to ensure the look your after. The idea is to have both polished and cut portions on the lens in a linear pattern. This to create vertical striations which resemble a sealed beam. I wash them once with some testors to dull them down a hair as they are far to bright and garish in their natural state. Harder to'splain than it is to do...typical! The back side of the bucket is bored to accept the optic whip. The bottom of the bore is polished using a frayed toothpick and compound whilst chucked into yourcordless.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/0B8061F-11F1-4191-ABAA-73EC67D59878.jpg

The project body was originally planned for the buckets. The factory molded lumps of a lamp were drilled one over size of the acrylic rod and counter sunk to frence them down old school style. The over size was to allow space for my goop topcoating as it adds considerable fill/solids to any size hole. I also didnt want the ligher yellow parent material to shine through should I have to file fit the buckets during final assembly.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/4420E3C-B2CE-4AC9-AC8F-E610B3FCD-1.jpg

The bucket assems are flush mounted and the whips are routed into the emitter manifold.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/95787DF-FA86-4FDF-A16B-E1EDB4AF0-1.jpg

The tail lamps havent evolved beyond the red dot type but certainly could be developed with some thought. The optic whip is neatly cut and eased near a lighter flame. It will curl up into a perfect little round lens when properly done. The end is carfully dotted with red paint once or twice... depending of course...to many coats and you'll loose translucency ....and not enough and it'll again look rather garish and un-natural. Again the original tail lenses were deleted early on and like the front the holes were oversized and counter sunk in the same manner.

The optic whip is just one of those re-todded novelty anemonae lamps I got at a garage sale fer fiddy cents...the acylic rods are hobby Store stuff and can be ordred if not in stock....I had to.

The train came off the track when I realized that the custom body was soooo tight to the chassis that the squiggly whiskers would be mulched in gear plate jeopardy. I knew it was gonna be close from the git go. Once CA'ed securley in place the whiskers shattered and broke when the chassis was inserted. They had lost all/any of their inherent flexibility at the attachment points and shattered with the slightest stress.

So after the dissaster of brittlizing the whips and tossing a weeks worth of R&D and fab work into the crapper I chose to shelve the lighting program until I found a better diode set up and the sting of a stoooopid mistake wore off. All in all I've got some fancy schmanzy nonfuntional lamps in my Lincoln LOL! Naturally all this could have been avoided by using a nonwicking glue and patience. D'Oh!

I have two other back burner lighting projects one of which includes an enclosed rudimentary projector lens that looks quite promising for street rod applications.

slotcarman,

That Ambulance is Great! Emergency slot vehicles are one of my favorites.

Well Thanks to Hilltop I have this crazy voice in my head that says, "Paint Shadows". This was a mix of Gold and Transparent Blue and came out a nice light green Metalic with Mullet Beer Green driver suit & rear wing. I have more Shadows. How many? Only the Shadow Knows....

Bo Duke got his ride updated when the shipment of decals arrived from Patto's. Gotta love the Sand Van man. :)

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbdukes2.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbdukes1.jpg

Always spray up lots of bodies in a paint session if possible. This way I can have a few quick fun decal and detail cars that are fun to do up when the time is right.....the time is right now.

Bob...Had some fun doing these quickies...zilla

Team Shadow!!! Looking good Bob...I like quikies myself...zilla. Those Skoal decals are tough to beat :thumbsup::thumbsup: I'd like to see Boss Hog chasing that bad boy!!! RM

hilltop and bob - i have a question about afx shadow body will it fit on srt chassis? or only magnatraction , xtraction chassis?

Wes

Slotcarman welcome to Hobby talk ! Come visit us on our Wednesday or Friday night Chats !

hilltop and bob - i have a question about afx shadow body will it fit on srt chassis? or only magnatraction , xtraction chassis?

Wes


Here is the Future Shadow H:):)TERS car mounted up on a SRT chassis that was under my GT40 AW body. Now the AW had to be chopped a bit to get the pickups shoes to work right BUT, the AFX Shadow just snapped in and I drove it a few laps to check for Functionality...Zoooooooooooooooom!

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking18.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking19.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking20.jpg

Great Idea Wes :thumbsup: AFX did make the Shadow originally with a front screw post and then later on removed it. This orange one didn't have the screw post & if you do have a screw post body just remove it and BAM!

The circled area in the last picture shows how you can cut down the plastic between the traction magnets & put lower tires on for better traction. Otherwise you will be dragging on the track which defeats the purpose.

I have gone even lower on some of my other SRT Chassis by cutting it even lower and then Super Gluing it back in and putting ridiculously low rear tires on it. How low can you go. Fletcher (our almost 5 year old son) loves to go fast into the curves on our larger track. Zooooooooooooooom baby! :woohoo:

Bob...now time to decal up another quickie...zilla

SWEET...I'm always thinkin' of HOOTERS....zilla

bob - SWEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTT!! i love the color man!! what is it? metallic copper or orange paint? i am gonna get some shadow bodies and use it for race!!!

Thanks for the info!!!

Wes

bob - SWEEEEEEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTT!! i love the color man!! what is it? metallic copper or orange paint? i am gonna get some shadow bodies and use it for race!!!

Thanks for the info!!!

Wes

Wes,

Kustom Kolors by: House of Kolor "Gold" base with "Transparent Tangerine" over that. The gold base coat covers the black very nicely. :)

Bob...your welcome...zilla

Wes,

Kustom Kolors by: House of Kolor "Gold" base with "Transparent Tangerine" over that. The gold base coat covers the black very nicely. :)

Bob...your welcome...zilla

dang its a sweet paint job!!! :)

Wes

Wow Bill, that coupe is sweet!! And you were soooo close!!! From what I've learned so far, the shrink tubing isn't necessary on the optic cable. They are designed to reflect the light back in. I am intrigued by the latest LED I've seen floating around on fleabay...It's got an inverted cone on top and is designed to refract the light sideways as opposed to out the top. This set-up is perfect for my initial design, which is to make a resin receptacle to hold the F.O. cable in place. The receptacle would be oval shaped and affixed to the underside of the cars hood, probably with JB. This would be filled with clear resin after the F.O. is inserted through slits made in the.:confused:well I guess they're sort of corners. I also have learned (the hard way) that CA, model cement, and a host of other glues do not hold the fiber optics, but they sure melt the LED material :mad:. Mushrooming the ends slightly before encapsulating them should do the trick. I've got a link for a resistor calculator (that I keep forgetting to write down) to aid in finding the correct resistor. My basic(un-attempted as yet) plan is to encase the resistor(1/2 watt is enough) and the base of the LED in the empty section of the chassis in JB weld, between the post and the motor. The clear acrylic resin needs a hole to accomodate the LED. I was planning to use a mold released junk LED to create the hollow and remove after the resin cures. That's basically what I got so far...Oh and I have a link for a Fiber Optic supplier I can give you..The stuffs not cheap, but a little goes a long way. They also have colored fiber optic that can be used for parking lights, side marker lights, neon ground effects, etc. I'll grab those links and get'em posted soon.

Ok satellite 1 and Bill, Here are the web addys...www.fiberopticproducts. com, and www.quickar.com/noqbestledcalc.htm. :thumbsup: You will need to know the input voltage (I'm using train transformers @ 22.0 volts, the voltage drop is different for different LEDs but they're usually between 1.8 to 4.0. The miliamps are between 1.5 and 2.5 (again specific to the LED you're using). If the specs are all the same and you plan on using more than one LED you can share the resistor. On the calculator page if you scroll down you'll see the inputs for multiples. The calculator will tell you the required ohm and wattage for the resistor you will need. Hope this helps you guys!!! :)

Slotcarman welcome to Hobby talk ! Come visit us on our Wednesday or Friday night Chats !

Why thanks for the invite Scott!! Sounds like fun. :woohoo: Count me in!!

No Problem Slotcar ! Just click the link at the top right of the page that says chat and enter slotcars . Join us it's a lot of FUN :thumbsup:

Wow Bill, that coupe is sweet!! And you were soooo close!!! From what I've learned so far, the shrink tubing isn't necessary on the optic cable. They are designed to reflect the light back in. I am intrigued by the latest LED I've seen floating around on fleabay...It's got an inverted cone on top and is designed to refract the light sideways as opposed to out the top. This set-up is perfect for my initial design, which is to make a resin receptacle to hold the F.O. cable in place. The receptacle would be oval shaped and affixed to the underside of the cars hood, probably with JB. This would be filled with clear resin after the F.O. is inserted through slits made in the.:confused:well I guess they're sort of corners. I also have learned (the hard way) that CA, model cement, and a host of other glues do not hold the fiber optics, but they sure melt the LED material :mad:. Mushrooming the ends slightly before encapsulating them should do the trick. I've got a link for a resistor calculator (that I keep forgetting to write down) to aid in finding the correct resistor. My basic(un-attempted as yet) plan is to encase the resistor(1/2 watt is enough) and the base of the LED in the empty section of the chassis in JB weld, between the post and the motor. The clear acrylic resin needs a hole to accomodate the LED. I was planning to use a mold released junk LED to create the hollow and remove after the resin cures. That's basically what I got so far...Oh and I have a link for a Fiber Optic supplier I can give you..The stuffs not cheap, but a little goes a long way. They also have colored fiber optic that can be used for parking lights, side marker lights, neon ground effects, etc. I'll grab those links and get'em posted soon.

I'm certain I led you partially astray. The shrink tubing covers only the LED, an acrylic lens/collector, and just the ends of the whips. this creates an enclosed module with near zero light leakage. I DO NOT cover the entire optic fiber. It is not necessary as the t-jet bodies are sufficiently thick
for the minimum glow they produce. The only shrouding required is at the LED and it is mandatory in the t-jet flamethrower configuration because the only usable void is right under the hood between the frame rails. My custom bodies are always cram fit very tight to the chassis with next to minimal clearance in any one direction. Therefore I'm pushing towards the minimalist design.

The acrylic lens is merely used to collect the whip ends and to provide a flat surface for the whip ends to abutt to and provide a stable area for the rounded LED to sit against. Think of it as a wide mouthed funnel for light.

The whips are inserted into a bore in the arylic lens collector. So the idea is identical to the front headlamp bucket assembly only in reverse and they are multiple whips as opposed to just one.

Essentially the same what you are doing only my attempts are packaged linear and branch out from the cavity between the front frame rails on the t-jet.

Thanx for the links! I'm excited to pick this project back up.

Bill, do you think wrapping the stick with foil would help create a higher light output from the opened end?

Cool Bill!! Glad to help!! Got one more lead for you to look into. On ebay, there is a seller called dmmwem. They cater mostly to the model RR crowd, but if you go to advanced search, scroll down on the left you'll see "find a member". They sell all kinds of LEDS and if you're looking minimalist, they have LEDs as small as 1.6 mm. A tiny lil thing, very fragile, but a light powerhouse! And they're available in colors too. The only catch with the clear ones is they give off a blueish white light, kinda like the new car halogens. A coat of clear yellow or orange paint might soften them up a bit. To give you an idea how small these are, they are smaller than the standard shaft on a dremel tool bit! And that includes the base! The whole LED measures 2.27 mm square. If push came to shove you could jb these right to the body and use a stranded 28 gauge wire (very fine and flexible)to connect it all together.

Bill, after the 4th beer it became clear as to what you tried to do. :drunk:The beauty of my concept(if it'll work) is the light unit(LED and resistor) are part of the chassis like with a flame thrower. The receptacle and the fiber optic array are part of the body. And if all lines up correctly, the two will mate perfectly. Take a piece of modeling clay and fill the front cavity of the body and press a junk chassis into the clay. this will give you a clear idea of how much room you have to work with. The area between the axle rails is more than adaquate for the resistor and the LED, with the LED sticking no more than It's thickness above the chassis rails. This should leave you about 4-6 mm room for the receptacle. Remember, the thicker the F.O. cable is, the less flexible it is. And the colored ones are on the brittle side to start with. By the way, I haven't patented this whole process yet so don't tell anyone!!!:lol: Please keep me posted on your progress and I'd love some pictures when completed!!:thumbsup:

Sorry everyone!!!! I didn't mean to turn this into Bill's and Joe's LED 101 :rolleyes:I just get so excited when I see someone doing something that has consumed my mind's every waking hour for the past year (I know, I need a life:p) So to put things back on the correct subject, here is yet another mini lindy cut up..ready for some soldering and a chassis,as soon as I can find a doner car to swipe one from. Today my LED flasher kits came in :woohoo:and once this surfer van is done, I'm going to try another meat wagon (if I don't blow up the board testing it, that is!!!!):rolleyes:
Question for you all..is Claus still making bodys and how can I go about finding some without a translator??? The one year of German I took in high school pretty much only taught me how to count to 10!! The mercury wagon was on my list to mold someday...

Sorry everyone!!!! I didn't mean to turn this into Bill's and Joe's LED 101 :rolleyes:I

Noooooooooooooooo Problemo man...nice Surf Van!

Everyone needs a dream but, you do have a Life...it is just messed up like the rest of us here on HT. lol :freak:

Bob...Let's go surfing now, everyones learning how...zilla

Sorry everyone!!!! I didn't mean to turn this into Bill's and Joe's LED 101 :rolleyes:I just get so excited when I see someone doing something that has consumed my mind's every waking hour for the past year (I know, I need a life:p) So to put things back on the correct subject, here is yet another mini lindy cut up..ready for some soldering and a chassis,as soon as I can find a doner car to swipe one from. Today my LED flasher kits came in :woohoo:and once this surfer van is done, I'm going to try another meat wagon (if I don't blow up the board testing it, that is!!!!):rolleyes:
Question for you all..is Claus still making bodys and how can I go about finding some without a translator??? The one year of German I took in high school pretty much only taught me how to count to 10!! The mercury wagon was on my list to mold someday...

A note to VJ first: According to the model railroading gurus at the time I was deep into it; the approved method was bright white paint for the acrylic lenses and manifolds. A coupla coats of black over the top is used extinguish leaks or undesireable glow. I never tried silver or foil because what I was doing worked super. Who knows what they bare doing now? :p

Joe, Thank You! The pictured diodes look perfect!

No worries, not the first post to run amok and certainly wont be the last. ;) HT is about exchanging ideas, amassing intel, and sharing opinions. We're still in the ballpark although we may not be in the base path proper. We can always plead insanity, petition Hank, and have these moved into it's own lil thread if some one gets their undies twisted over it. As far as Claus goes he has a better handle on English than most of us any way so go for it in English.

Well, as long as I'm giving out my secret recipies,;) satelite, the LEDs I'm using are 2.0 mm warm white, the tail lights are 1.8 mm reds. They are available from dmmwem on flea-bay. as far as the resistors, I'll have to check on that. I will say that seller has got about the fastest shipping time, and he's never let me down. I would assume you still have your green van... Speaking of post 537, Bob, what ever happened to that mini lindy van resin casting??? I'd love to see what one would look like with a "real" coat of paint on it, since mine are all butchered krylon jobs :cry: Some day, someday, someday I will buy an airbrush and have a suitable place to use it without blowing up the house from the paint fumes:cool:

Bob, where's the Sand Van with the 50mm. Check out my 50! Just waiting for you, over the next dune in the sand, watch out.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/XraceHO/IMG_0193.jpg

Just a little Whimsy: a British driver & gunner with an American military body (like his stiff upper lip with the mustache) and the 50mm on a confiscated VW Thing. Being a Crazy Canuck, just loved the Canadian Sand Van, another car for the want list. ... RL

XracerHO,

I just don't think a Sand Van is gonna cut it this time. Your Thing 1 & My Thing 2 (under construction now) will soon meet in a battle that will go down in Hobby Talk History. Somebody call a Medic quick! LOL

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabc1.jpg

Love the way you mounted the 50mm on the roll bar. :cool: The whole "Thing" is just fun with the Pom Trees and British Dudes. This is war...

Bob...inspired by inspiration of inspirational build...zilla

http://i23.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f6/81/f278_1.JPG

By Greg

http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Ford-Escort-by-Greg-Myers_W0QQitemZ380036331719QQihZ025QQcategoryZ776Q QcmdZViewItem

http://i23.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f6/81/f278_1.JPG

By Greg

http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Ford-Escort-by-Greg-Myers_W0QQitemZ380036331719QQihZ025QQcategoryZ776Q QcmdZViewItem

Think you need a bigger blower! ;)

:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr

She might be a tad nose heavy...

http://i23.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/f6/81/f278_1.JPG

By Greg

http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-Ford-Escort-by-Greg-Myers_W0QQitemZ380036331719QQihZ025QQcategoryZ776Q QcmdZViewItem


Somewhere in here is a joke about a tech block. :freak:

She might be a tad nose heavy...

Why ? LOL

Somewhere in here is a joke about a tech block. :freak:

I no longer come here for the content, it's the jokes ....

:cry: Well,I'm bummed!! My lil circuit board wouldn't do squat hooked up to a chassis. Rigged up to the track alone, it would light up but not flash! Then back on the 9 volt battery..starts flashing again....Back to the drawing board!!

Slotcar dude ! So how was your first chat nite buddy ,LOL Hope you had a good time .

Insanity at first..once it settled down a bit I could handle it.. I'll be in there regularly!!!

Somewhere in here is a joke about a tech block. :freak:

Dobba, I am writting from the ER. I laughed so hard that I broke three ribs. It was worth it! :freak: :dude:

Doba, I am writting from the ER. I laughed so hard that I broke three ribs. It was worth it!


:eek: Whoa -- Sorry Dude! :lol: Glad you liked it. :wave:

Slotcar man glad you had a good time Cya next wednesday ! We do chat on Firdays too.
Doba where will you be apearing for your stand up routine ? I need to get tickets !

Somewhere in here is a joke about a tech block. :freak:

Now that's funny :lol: :tongue: :lol:

The TycoPro Miura was an eBay casualty I rescued. The rear section from the wheelwells back was bent going straight up. I straightened that and painted over the stress marks. The rest are various projects I have finished up or am very close to calling finished. The VW was a gift for my oldest daughter. She wants a real one, but has a couple of years to go before I start worrying about that! Meanwhile the slot car can do!

-Paul

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pxNKg8ZgzLT6uWN9h6l-nFwdAnwKWepAq17ccIyz_Wsys5of4hIt0lkxgBnDsp8Fy

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p6_x_xD8H-dVFOrMtIS_Sf1jN6wixYy15NTixM8ljciOD37Vj4eRagDvs_po cqu9r

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pAczQ0a0chogr7YIEqODD7rVRK7kiXVIeKMaGon2kGg1mIAw Fr-3oE6xxOkBfpaAB

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1p7hldahkYwHmNZhpAZ8wrbkOdkkjiU0HM1wAlfLigP0ogZws 4OIpMkeb5EwNEafnI

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1ptwJXjNKzkECsQ7NvvTr9yuQP4oozGuZX2QcKFxOxXWsPeHL LNhMch-piNQA5ui1g

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pavCpoPasbcDyndIzHmZ49HCMKMRx62QMKu3x8m8VmwwQImo 461H1r9dAEsQyDWNq

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pFH6lL1qeLHsrxmxdmKnqW96s9jZLtEF3R4psaUHo44G6GP2 5d3ICywjygo6ct0kV

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pd4RbZAI7r7h6tfBCTCvium8ptLTYh5wEpDQr75v0kC5VUCt SAs2cnsfimtfvjgzE

A few of my recent completed projects and works in progress:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j71/grungerockjeeper/customslot.jpg

The oil truck uses the tank taken off of a matchbox which is currently available. Chrome foiled it, added a screwpost, drilled a hole in the back of an ex-US1 dumptruck and voila!

The blue firebird was chromed with lots of wear but a body that was free of any chips cuts, breaks or damage so I stripped it intending to paint it. Turns out it was a pretty shade of blue so I just did some detail painting. Swapped motor magnets and block from an Ideal TCR (same motor as HP-2) paired with a widegap gold HP-7 arm for a fast little car.

The stepsides were both chromed command controls with heavy chrome wear stripped down and painted Ford sunrise red and GM bright aqua pearl, both Model Masters spray bombs. A little future floor wax, some detailing and I wound up with 2 real nice trucks. The red one has an HP-7 with a nice clean set of chromed stock wheels with a motor like the firebird, the teal one is a grey curvehugger with some of RDM95's aluminum wheels, silicone rears and a greenwire mabuchi motor. Both have the go to back up the show.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j71/grungerockjeeper/dirtybug.jpg

This one is in the conceptual stage. It was a blue chrome JL that I stripped down and repainted orange. I cut out and sanded smooth that 'bucket' on the roof that holds the spare tire. The tire will still be there, but without the goofy flower pot. Its gonna get some racing decals, window nets and plenty of muck slopped on to justify such dirty wheels and tires.

Nice work, pshoe. The model A is hot business, Eleanor is always nice to see, cant go wrong with a Cuda---EVER---and Im a fan of those AFX turbine wheels.

Nice-a nice-a jobs on the new arrivals!!! the off road vee-wee is going to be a wild looking ride!!! And I agree with the eleanor statement too!! Very nice detail work!! Cuda's and the hotrod lookin' good!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Those are some sweet paint jobs on the pickups, and is that tank plastic??? Great match-up!!

Nice work, pshoe. The model A is hot business, Eleanor is always nice to see, cant go wrong with a Cuda---EVER---and Im a fan of those AFX turbine wheels.

The Model A was my first swipe at doing the pin-stripping by hand. Man, decals are easier! And much more forgiving:freak::freak:

I've already started the sanding and planning for the AAR Cuda. I see a Swede Savage car in my future.

I love the trucks! The stepsides are classic!

-Paul

Nice job pshoe ! Awesome cars Always a fan of Eleanor !

Three is company too...yeah the Hooters Shadow is all done & hanging out with its friends now.

All I need now is some LOLA cars done up and we got a race on our hands baby...Yeah!

I keep hearing this voice in my head telling me to add a large scoop behind the driver on the Shadow...Hmmmmmmmmm sounds like alot of fun...O.K. will do it!

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking31.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking32.jpg

Wes,

You asked me what color this was & I told you wrong. Went paint shopping and picked up more of this Amber Turn Signal Metallic Orange the other day. Note the #s are different on the bottles as are the colors. Testors makes 2 different colors of this. I used the Darker one to the left for this Hooters paint job over House of Kolors Gold. (Had stated before that I used House of Kolors Transparent Tangerine over gold which, is incorrect).

Yeah stuff like this rambles in my head all the time...

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking33.jpg

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aabbking34.jpg

Bob...you can never have enough H:):)TERS slot cars...zilla

Nice to see you rescue three Shadows for the dog pound and give 'em new lives with those sweet liveries! You've got a good start to the Zilla Can-Am IROC going! It's a great bit of work from Bob...can't leave all dem Shadows black...Zilla. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j71/grungerockjeeper/dirtybug.jpg

This one is in the conceptual stage. It was a blue chrome JL that I stripped down and repainted orange. I cut out and sanded smooth that 'bucket' on the roof that holds the spare tire. The tire will still be there, but without the goofy flower pot. Its gonna get some racing decals, window nets and plenty of muck slopped on to justify such dirty wheels and tires.


grungerockjeepe,

Love those bugs man! Will look great with some muck slop on it...yeah!

Love those Stepsides (from the 70s or 80s) also as they just don't make them like that anymore.

Bob...keep on keeping on...zilla

The TycoPro Miura was an eBay casualty I rescued. The rear section from the wheelwells back was bent going straight up. I straightened that and painted over the stress marks. The rest are various projects I have finished up or am very close to calling finished. The VW was a gift for my oldest daughter. She wants a real one, but has a couple of years to go before I start worrying about that! Meanwhile the slot car can do!

-Paul

http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pxNKg8ZgzLT6uWN9h6l-nFwdAnwKWepAq17ccIyz_Wsys5of4hIt0lkxgBnDsp8Fy

pshoe,

Those are some nice paint jobs there. Love the Bug, Model A is just plain way Kelw as is the Mustang also.

Just picked up a Muira from Hellonwheels8 a few weeks ago and am very excited about painting it up some day.

Bob...they all look great...zilla

Nice-a nice-a jobs on the new arrivals!!! the off road vee-wee is going to be a wild looking ride!!! And I agree with the eleanor statement too!! Very nice detail work!! Cuda's and the hotrod lookin' good!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Those are some sweet paint jobs on the pickups, and is that tank plastic??? Great match-up!!

Thanks man. Yep, the tank is plastic. Matchbox has had several versions of trucks using this piece. Its a pretty simple conversion and swap actually.

All great stuff!!! Nice work Pshoe, grJeep, and Robert Hovendude!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: nd

Nice stable pshoe64!!! Love that little blue pickem up truck the best, not that I would turn down any of the rest, but the pu just tugs at me a little harder...RM