Hey guys just a random question for you. down at my local track for some reason we carry tons and tons of parma's liquid paint mask. and a friend of mine gave me an entire bottle of it. and I was just wondering before i paint this stuff all over the inside of my body. could anyone tell me if it works well and what I need to do to make it work. any information you can give me would me much appreceated.

THANKS
Sean Scott

I've never used it, but I've heard it works really well. Somebody I know said they thin it and SPRAY it..but I don't know what they would thin it with.

i use liquid mask all the time. i brush it on. do 3 even coats. usually light. i do it like this apply one coat then let dry overnight then apply 2nd coat in morning. then when i get home from work apply 3rd coat. let dry till the next night and your ready to paint. or you can apply 1 coat and use a heat gun or hair dryer till dry. then do the same for coat 2 and 3.

when painting i always paint my black first. so i cut out all the black problem is this make it very hard to see your design that you have drawn out. so what i did is went to home depot and got some blue painters tape they make 2 type i use the one with the orange band it's low tack and wont pull up the liquid mask I cut all the black out and peel it out then i tape off the design. paint the black then peel the blue tape out. then i cut out the next design and paint that and so on.

here is a example of my work.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/2006_0601Image0009.JPG


for this body i cut all the black out did the blue tape thing. paint the black. then i cut out the flame design and painted the candy red backed it with silver. then i cut the orange stripe and other orange out painted it. then i peeled the flame design out did the flu yellow fade then peeled all the whit out and painted it. then only stickers on this body are the charger, headlights and grill the rest is all hand cut.

for that i scanned the sponsors decal in the computer. once ther you can view the and paint them out. when you print them out select the properties button got basics and selct mirror image. this prints them out backwards. then i tap the printout where i want it with the image towards the body. and cut it out in the liquid mask. i also do this with the paint mask designs. it take about 3-4 hours to paint a body like this one.

hope this helps

I cant even imagine doing what DAVEPULL does...first I can't cut a straight line on the inside of the bodies.

I'll stick to 1 or 2 color basic paint jobs w/ STICKERS...LOL WINDOW MASK, SHAKE CAN, SPRAY...install DECALS 45 minutes....LOL

Darkscope001 I use the bob dively brand of liquid mask BUT it all basically the same stuff. I brush it on and wait 24 hrs to paint. The best part of a liquid mask is it molds to any curve corner or point a body can throw you. That and it allows you to draw out you scheme on the out side of the body.

BIG thing to remember is use a sharp Xacto knife to cut your design and try to only use enough pressure to cut the mask and not score the body. To much pressure can result in scoring the lexan and a body that can fall apart after a couple of hard hits.................specially in the ront end area. Trust me on this I have had to use clear duct tape to fix this sort of thing on race day

Hope it stops the debate. :)

just dont use the flascolor brand mask when you are using the spray can paints, it dont work real well !!

The parma is the same as the Bob dively stuff. if you put 3 coats you'll be fine


I have to disagree with Super X ray. I took a in the package body and did 3 coats of mask and had it painted in under 6 hours. i used a space heater to dry the mask and a heat gun to dry the paint. never had any problems at all with the paint. if you want to you can wait hours for paint to "chemically react" but it isn't a must. but I do recommend waiting till the next day to mount a fresh painted body.

nah, forget it. Not worth the effort. :)

i was just saying it isn't necessary to let the paint dry hours before moving on to the next color

I would agree with davepull. I don't wait either and have never had a problem. The process you are referring to is called "cross over". It means that the paint changes from a liquid to a solid. This happens when all of the vehicle, water or solvent, evaporates off.
I suppose that with a solvent base, there is some etching of the Lexan.

I only do the 24 hrs or more way since I'm usually one or two bodies out before I need the one I'm prepping and painting. Thus I don't need to make the liquid mask in a fast way. Although I do use a hair dryer to speed up the paint dry time only because most of the time I want to get the paint work done and over with in a shorter period.

Can any of you liquid mask experts give me a hint on how to get "over dried" liquid mask off a body?

In my newbie era, I got a "clear" body from someone that had been sitting around for a while and eventually I realized it had liquid mask on it and that's why it wasn't really "clear". It was applied very thin so it is not easy to remove. I let it soak in a sink full of hot water for about a day and only got part of it off. Any hints?

The problem there is it was applied to thin. I don't think the stuff can be "over dry". I've left bodies masked for months and never had a problem getting it off when I've put 3 heavy coats on. As for your problem, patients is going to be your best bet from the sounds of it. :( Maybe try some window cleaner to help slide it off?

"Over dry" -->> Sitting for 2 years before I figured out why the "clear" body :confused: wasn't clear.

It definitely is on thin. I will try window cleaner.

What about puting another layer of the mask on then peel it off and mabye it will bring the old layer with it.

Try denatured alcohol. Maybe a plastic scrubber. Not one with abrasive in it. I got some from the Dollar store. Don't scrub on the windows until you can see if it will scratch.