Today I got off the computer, put away the wallet, and started the construction of my track.

I mounted some support pieces for the legs (so that I could use longer screws to attach the legs), put a couple coats of primer/sealer on bottom of tables, and attached the folding table legs.

That's about it for today.

Next tasks will be to primer top and sides, add supports under table top to level the slight bowing, and design a method to 'draw' the 2 table pieces together insuring a level fit at the joint that will withstand being attached and detached frequently.

I also want to have height adjustments on the table legs, and possibly wheels with brakes.

http://thumb2.webshots.net/t/57/457/3/90/11/2518390110099980462cpquRs_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2518390110099980462cpquRs)

http://thumb2.webshots.net/t/58/158/4/75/39/2614475390099980462FGEySX_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2614475390099980462FGEySX)

That first step is always the hardest -- now one thing will flow into another. Looks good so far!

'doba

I guess that is what is called a "shorttrack" :wave:

Evan

Don't stop now, keep on rollin'. :thumbsup: rr

Now that you have the foundation set you can just start throwing stuff together. It took me a few hours to build my table but as soon as that was done the rest has been coming together like clockwork. Well, all except for the stuff I dont know how to do like lighting and wiring. Git-r-dun chief!!

I guess that is what is called a "shorttrack" :wave:

Evan

You might say that. I was actually tempted to add a 9" curve, but I thought it might make the track look too 'busy', like I was just trying to use every piece of track I owned. I also think this will give me the room I need for landscaping.

If anyone is interested in copying this design, I have attached the Tracker 2000 design image. You can easily make this layout by combining a Super International set with the Big Block Battlers set.

:)

From the looks of that attached image that really is a 'short track' chief. :lol:

Made a little progress tonight. I installed the Racor PHL-1R Heavy Lift to the garage ceiling. I figured I had to get this step moving forward, because I have no room for a permanent layout, and therefore needed to figure out what I am going to do with track when it is not being used.

My plan is to lose the 'shelf' that came with the rack system, run a couple 2x4's under one of the tables, and hook the ends of those 2x4's to the cables. Once that table is raised a couple inches, the other table will slide underneath, and again a couple 2x4's under it will hook to some additional short cables that are attached to the first tables' 2x4's.

This assembly is going to take more vertical headroom then I had anticipated. Not real pleased with that. I already have 2 bikes hanging down over the hood of my car on other side of garage, so now the previously open area of the garage will have a hanging obstruction.

http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/621/2911247000099980462S425x425Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2911247000099980462yfIoMQ)

That lift is way cool, where did you get it?

That lift is way cool, where did you get it?

I had a local Lowes order it. Took less then a week to arrive at the store. $148.00

I added some inexpensive caster wheels today - they really help moving these tables around the garage.

I also got the tables up on the lift. :thumbsup: The lowest part of the bottom table is 6'3" from floor. I'm pretty sure I can raise it another 2-3 inches by adjusting eyebolt lengths, and reducing the distance between the tables. I think I have about 5 inches now between them. Unfortunatly, there won't be much (if any) elevation changes in my layout.

http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/620/2817763090099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2817763090099980462Xqkict)

http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/494/2379511150099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2379511150099980462TGPIaQ)

http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/1034/2635458110099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2635458110099980462hrGgtJ)

Today I decided to purty-up the look of the track tables when stored. I figure they are going to be in this position most of the time, so they should look decent.

Plus, maybe it will get friends/neighbors to inquire as to what I got hanging there...so I will need to take them down, set it up...and race. :)

Now, if I can ever get the topside to look as good as the bottom side....

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/1918/2882818020099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2882818020099980462VGYaKd)

Next step is to figure out how I am going to attach the tables to each other in an "L" shape. My garage floor is not perfectly level, plus the plywood tops have a little difference to them. I'm thinking a piece of wood on underside, attached to one half, and it would then be a shelf for the other table to sit on. Attaching the second table to the shelf would be by using bolts, countersunk on topside. I would locate these bolts underneath pieces of removable track that are spanning the table tops. The issue then is modifying the Tomy track so it can be dropped in from top, as oppossed to sliding together.

So, I think I will reverse the above steps, and design the drop-in track first, because if that doesn't pan out, I may need to rethink how I draw the tables together.

Very nice Scaf!

Well....you could mount 2x4 on the edge so they meet....drill them through...then glue a dowl in one side for a pin and jioner style...

The "female" would need just a slight amount of play...

As for pulling them together...

How about some tie down clamps...like they style from a tool box...that draws the sides together as they clamp down...

You almost need to two people to do it though in order to get the track to connect at the same time...

UNLESS....you think about something I had come up with like a removable model train bridge...

all track would be static (secured)...and the bridge piece would just set into the space between them...

two ways to power the "bridge"....

either with a set of jumpers...

Or ...

Brass spring contacts set into the bottom of the "bridge"...hell...you could use a set up pick up shoes for each lane if you modified them...

You dont need to carry power "through" the joint if you wire the table sections with a quick disconnect.....you only need to power the bridge someway..

This way...you could put the table together by yourself....then drop in the joiner pieces after wards...some simple holes in the table and pins glued on the bottom of the joiner section could ensure alinement..

Or maybe on the extreme...adapt to lock and joiner style just for the "bridge" between the tables...so you wouldnt have to hack the track ends flat...

Just an idea...I been thinking about how to do my future track in a modular form as well...and make it easy to set up...

I'd like to be able to set it up as an 8 lane long oval...or a 4 lane road coarse...

My big table would contain the 4 lane road coarse with an over pass etc...

And a short 3x3 , 8 lane curve set could be used instead of running onto the long table...to create a 18 ft long 8 lane oval...( my two narrow tables are 7'6" long and 38" wide)...

In other words...with the big table...the inside four lanes would run out and back...and the outside four lanes would run out and back...

With the short section...it would be an 8 lane..

It would take some extra wiring to keep the lanes separate...and some jumpers for use when a road course...but I really want to be able to take it and set it up other places sometime...

I would also need two separate timing interfaces....one on the big table as a four lane...

and one on the short curve section as an 8 lane...

When I have a minute (sure..LOL ) I'll add my thoughts to the "mid ohio" layout pics I posted a while ago...so you can see what I'm talking about...

*evil mad scientist laugh* :cool:

I think the 'bridge' piece will be the way to go. But, I think we can do it without having to create jumper wires or other some other means to connect the rails. I did a test tonight.

I screwed down 3 pcs of track, making sure they were a snug fit. I then removed them, remounted the 2 outside pieces, and started with the dremel on the removed center piece.

The 3" piece on the right in the photo below is the piece I dremeled.

http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/1727/2625848610099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2625848610099980462qvKaSU)

You can get one side to of the track to 'slide in' like normal by attaching the piece on an angle.

http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/1268/2066145070099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2066145070099980462MHPNnJ)

The second side can drop in from top, but, you do need to use a small-tip screwdriver to help pry the angled rails out of the way to accept the other rail.

I admittedly did break a couple of the plastic pieces on the fixed mounted track during my attempts to drop in the middle piece, but I'm sure that could be resolved by allowing a small (like 1/16") gap between these track pieces. I had basically zero tolerance when I mounted the pieces, and this caused plastic to hit plastic when dropping in the middle piece.

Being careful, I think we can use drop in 'bridge' pieces, and utilize the rails to provide continuity of power.

http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/71/2819447330099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2819447330099980462wsiLGu)

Excellent! :thumbsup:

Today I bought some of the wiring things I will need. Terminal strips and wire connectors. It doesn't look like $50 worth of stuff to me, but it was.

http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/795/2492148500099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2492148500099980462ZYHHxR)

I decided to go all 16ga stranded wire. I ordered the wire through my company today, 500' ea of red and black (we only sell in 500' rolls). Hopefully that will be plenty.

I still need to figure out what I am going to do for driver stations, among other things, but I think I can mount these TB's, and if my wire comes in tomorrow, make my power-tap track pieces.

I called Racemasters (the distributor for AFX track) again today - they are local to me. Super International sets are on their way from China, and should hit the warehouses in next couple weeks. The new 4-Way Split set isn't going to be available until June/July. It will have new cars in it (I didn't ask what cars) but the new cars require new art-work for the box, and that is what is delaying things. I mention this because I need to buy one or the other of these sets plus additional track pieces to complete my current design.

BTW:

This is the design that I am currently working with. I may still tweak somethings here and there, but this is the current goal.

It has straight pieces crossing the two tables, to allow for the drop-in tracks.

I think as long as you have a few slightly elevated sections for looks, even if its only 1-2", will really be a good start. I really dig the setup, I think in the end that will be really fun to race on with 4 lanes.

I have been following along with your progress. Looking great so far. You are not going to want to hang that track in the ceiling once it is done. You will be having too much fun. You vehicle will be left out int he cold!

Bewstd: Once I get the track onto the table, I will look into getting some elevation changes. I agree that these can really enhance the look and fun of the track.

Duece: Thanks for following along. Ya know, I think I might be able to fit my 350Z in the garage will the table down, but her Element would have to stay outside. Nope - she won't go for that I can assure you.

I know that much what I am doing is old-hat to so many here, and I may even get too detailed on no-brainer things, but I hope that this process will be useful for others who may also just be starting out in this hobby.

This forum seems like a good place to post my 'blog' on building the track, since most of what I learned came from this forum, and details I don't touch on here are probably detailed in the many other threads at the forum.

Scaf, I am with ya on the quality of the posts on this forum. I am an RC racer most of the year, but each year in December, as I have done for 30 years, I set up my HO slot car track for the Holidays. This year, I started reading the slot cars section of Hobby talk and have been hooked ever since. I have an approx 55 foot 4 lane temp layout in my RC shop. Normally, it would have been taken down by now, but I can't bring myself to do it. I was never into trains, but like the detailed landscaping. I was totally inspired by Scott V's track and have long term plans for a permenant landscaped layout in the future. I am also considering a way to elevate my temp layout to the ceilign in my shop......decisions....keep up your blog on this forum, I will be following along for the duration.

John

Looks good- Looks like you're off to a good start! :thumbsup:

One thing to anticipate is that if you raise the track your track length in that area will shorten as you go up, so you may have to play around with different pieces before you get it all right.

I painted the table tops a tan color. I think it looks good as a backdrop against the black track. If I decide to landscape in the future, I may go with a desert theme.

I used a 1x7 under the table split to hold the 2 tables together.

http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/2079/2020234570099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2020234570099980462NKsQvH)

I placed the holes where they would be under the drop-in track pieces.

http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/775/2482116550099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2482116550099980462EFaVGX)

All this track, and I am still $200 shy in track pieces to finish the layout. :(

http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/387/2534944550099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2534944550099980462FYOBoB)

The bay is your friend! I bought a lot of tyco track a couple years ago for $70 shipped and got 300 pieces of track with 5 power tracks with 2 controllers for each as well as guard rails and all kinds of loose ends.

I've been placing bids eBay for track, but the winning bids seem to be above what I can buy the track for from the store.

I did get my wire.

http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/1672/2334518940099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2334518940099980462DtGVpD)

I also went and bought a drill press. I tried countersinking holes again with my hand drill, and it wasn't very productive. I was all ready to spend $100 on a Ryobi drill press, but found this one at Harbor Freight for $40.00

It will work fine for my current purpose, and the money I saved can be used towards buying the additional track pieces I need. But the quality of the machine isn't very good.

http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/390/2448666820099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2448666820099980462tPvOIE)

I went ahead and countersunk all the holes on the track pieces I currently have, and also took the dremmel tool to the tabs that need to get removed. That process took a few hours, and I will have to go through it again when I get the rest of the track pieces.

Some stuff I picked up today, to get moving forward on power for the track.

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/1444/2636658850099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2636658850099980462SDsuuj)

Extra Hand tool
Wire Glue (not sure if/where I will use this)
Banana plugs, male and female for driver stations (I guess I will paint some white)
Solder, Solder Flux
Wire Guide clamps
Couple power strips (I will be using 4 wall warts for power)
Magnetic Reed switches (for lap counter)
Molex connectors (for easy wire connections between tables)

I got most of the under-table power wiring done today.

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/359/2991532890099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2991532890099980462tOdlXX)

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/453/2927893180099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2927893180099980462jCWdAH)

Still need to figure out my drivers stations, and learn to solder wires to track.

Nice work!

Scaf, looks nice and neat. Hey what are the two boxes (look like a large red and green switch) on the right hand side of the picture?

Scaf, looks nice and neat. Hey what are the two boxes (look like a large red and green switch) on the right hand side of the picture?

I think those are the powerpacks with colored tape stuck to them (probably to designate the lane). At least that's what it looks like to me.

'doba

i found on my track which i soldered every joint on the whole track i used some flux made by lucky bobs which i use to use on my 1/24 scale cars, i tried all the different paste flux from radio shack and they wasnt even close to the lucky bobs and on the iron i used a unger solering iron which i cant remember how many watts it is but it works great, and a damp towel will probably help you if you are not a good solderer , im used to it im a welder by trade so it probably helps me i dont use a towel . hope this helps you. thanks gary

Thank you for the comments.

The black boxes on the right are the power packs like doba stated. The long side of the table just has terminal blocks, with some colored tape by them to help me keep track of what I was doing.

I don't plan on soldering track joints because I think I will want to modify the layout in the future (add elevations, and maybe re-layout the track). Plus, my soldering skills are nil as I found out yesterday.

I've never done any wiring prior, and while it was tedious, it was also enjoyable. I wasn't sure how I was going to run wire when I centered the TB's on the 2x4. I think I may move the TB's up a half inch or so, to keep the wiring all above the bottom of the 2x4. The top side of the TB's will be wired to either power tap tracks or controllers, and only a single wire on each TB point, so I don't need as much room above the TB as I need below.

Hey Scaf, Very nice indeed. I've been lurking along with you on this layout. You may find the wiring tedious but you've done an admirable job! Organized,nice and neat. If you ever have troubles it will make things "legible" and easy to trouble shoot. Add ons will be a snap as well. I always liked the cafeteria table legs. Did those come with casters or were they an add on? Again very cool, and well thought out, Dig it! :thumbsup: - BH

Thank you Bill.

The casters were an add-on. My local mom-and-pop hardware store helped me find those when I described what I was trying to do. You hammer these plastic plugs into the ends of the legs, and they have a center hole to push-in the nylon caster post. So simple, and yet before they pointed these out, I was engineering a disaster using PVC, dowels, and huge rubber casters.

I think these nylon wheels are going to work great for the minimal scooting around of the tables in my garage.

I've been working on the driver's stations over past few evenings. I decided to use radio shack project boxes for the stations, mounted under the edge of the table. I included an on/off brake switch and a reversing switch. I went with banana plug connectors to the controllers at this time.

I made a couple goofs during the process. First one was that I soldered wires to the fuse holder before mounting it. Since the fuse holder mounts from the front, my solder connection wouldn't fit through the hole I had made. Some filing solved that, but the holding nut will not go over the solder connection on the inside. Learning from that mistake, on my second go around I mounted the fuse holder first, then soldered wires to it. Only thing was, I wanted it in the middle hole to separate the toggle switches, but I had it in the left hole.

All in all, after mounting the box and making the wiring connections, I used my voltmeter to test it, and everything worked like it should, so I am happy.

I can see myself redoing the stations as a project sometime in the future...but for now, I am going to complete the other three stations, and move on to the next task.

http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/1557/2383428480099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2383428480099980462ybVZkV)

http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/1327/2290991290099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2290991290099980462lBkMZJ)


http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/435/2795488900099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2795488900099980462nUboXu)

http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/1427/2514451350099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2514451350099980462mozRBO)

Wow Scaf, nice job on the drivers station :thumbsup: :thumbsup: your setup is looking impressive, and I'm looking forward to seeing your setup as you progress.

Scaf --

We used the same boxes on my track, except we added a second box with the middle cut out to hold the controller.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2006-_030b.jpg

Also, with the green, yellow, blue and red lane colors I used, I got a matching controller color. Well, except green, there were no green ones so I had to use a yellow one and shoot transparent blue inside the handle. Now it's green. :)

'doba

I think the project boxes have a nice clean look to them. I also need to figure out a place to set the controllers. Since my stations are under the edge of the table, I am thinking about some type of basket - maybe a long basket that spans the gap between the stations.

I worked on my table walls today. I still need to paint them and do some detail work where the edges meet.

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/2171/2547614370099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2547614370099980462HCMwJa)

I used gutter guard for the walls, and hot-glued some FRP vinyl capping to the top edge. I also attached FRP vinyl cap to the table edge using small nails, to give me a channel to put the gutter guard in. Because of the way I have to store the table, I needed to make the table walls removable.

http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/685/2234066240099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2234066240099980462burhhK)

I glued some craft sticks along the lower edge of the gutter guard, and then also used craft sticks to make vertical supports. These sticks gave the gutter guard just enough rigidty to stand vertical.

Some corner caps should finish the basic wall, along with some way to tie the edges of the guard together at the corners, and where I had to split the wall along the long straight.

The wall consists of 7 pieces, which can be laid on the table when I have to raise it to the ceiling.

The catch walls turned out great Scaf, I thought it was ping pong netting when I first saw the pic.

Thanks Tyco. I wanted to use ping pong nets, but they were too expensive.

One thing about the walls is that they sure make the tables looks smaller. I believe this is because the light color along top edge. I started painted the walls flat black last night, and I hope this makes the walls less of a visual attraction. Of course, having some track layed out will help too.

I finished painting the walls black, and while I'm not sure if the table sizes grew by doing so, I do like the look if it better.

http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/1624/2120992580099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2120992580099980462dpiXip)

After taking the walls in and out a couple times, I can see that my popsicle-stick-in-a-channel situation may not last very long. The channel is just a tad too narrow to get the assembly to drop in easily, and while I didn't want it loose, I think the sticks will soon start to pop off after a couple more in/outs. Epoxy might hold them, but I may need to get a different channel...or rethink the attachment method completely....or....buy a house with a basement so I can stop dinkering around with all this 'has to be removable' and 'has to break down to the size of a carry-on bag' crud I am dealing with.

The cars haven't been in the garage for a week now.

In between coats of paint tonight, I started wondering when I am going to dis-assembly the tables, and raise them to their ceiling home.

Hmmm....September...2008..............maybe.

LOL...well..at least when you do decide to buy another house....you'll allready be looking for slotcar space *grin*

Yeah...you got it bad... :thumbsup:

Power Taps:

Based on a power tap thread elsewhere on the forum, I am probably going a wee bit overboard on the qty of power taps for my layout.

My track is approx 64' per lane, and uses 164 pc's of track, so there are about 81 track-joints per pair of lanes. Using the general rule of a tap every 10-15 joints, I wired the track for (7) power taps for each lane. Four would have probably been fine, and five plenty, but I went ahead and mounted 8pt terminal blocks in various areas so I would have seven taps.

As I started making my power tap tracks tonight, I realized the downside to having so many - it's a lot of work making them.

14 tap tracks:

56 wire leads cut
28 lil HO train connectors pried apart, flattened, and diagonally cut
56 solders
112 wire strips
56 crimps
56 hot glue dabs (each requiring 25 seconds of holding wire still)

One track down - 13 to go. My first did not come out real pretty, but I think the 5th one is going to be perfect. The 9th one will probably still look decent, and the last one will probably look more like the first (just my prediction).

http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/156/2632318730099980462S500x500Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2632318730099980462QbsCIT)

Props again to tycoarm for enlightening me on the push-the-sharp-sliver-through-the-slit method for power taps.

Oh yea...

42 holes I have to drill in my table (the center wires will share a hole?)

You would need maybe 2 - 3 power taps if you are planning on soldering all the rail connections. I did this on my 56' road track and a similar sized quad oval and have clean, smooth current throughout the track.

I wasn't planning on soldering the track joints, but if you guys talk me into it....

I'm guessing soldering the track is a fairly permanent set-up, or can you desolder and resolder track without much worry of damaging track pieces?

In spite of all my whining in my previous post, I'm actually ok wiht the work involved in making the 7 power taps. I am pretty much convinced that any effort put into making the track that provides results is fun.

I am however worried about all the holes I will need to drill in my currently pristine table top for all these power tap wires. I'm fairly certain that shortly after setting up my first layout I will find something that I want to change, and if that change requires moving a power tap track I will start having to deal with patching holes.

One idea I was just mulling over was routering some channels in the table top that could be used for routing power tap wires. Maybe 2 or 3 channels on each 4x8 table, maybe 3/8"w and 3/8"d across the width of the table.

If I ever relayout track, instead of drilling new holes for where my pre-made power tap tracks are located, I would make whatever track piece crosses the channel a power tap track.

Some type of cheap drop-in cover could be made for the channels, after wires have been run.

Attached is a quick sketch, with channels obviously not drawn to scale.

What do you guys think about this, or do you have another idea, so that my tabel won't start to look like swiss cheese after a few revised layouts?

I wouldn't solder all the track connections if you are doing 7 taps. That's plenty good..... It would take f o r e v e r to solder all the joints...... And like you mentioned, that makes it really tough to make changes later... And you will.......

Attached is my working layout. The small squares are approx where my terminal blocks are located, under the table.

I have indicated the sections of track where I was planning to put power taps.

Please feel free to comment on these locations.

With seven taps I don't think soldering will give you any noticeable power differerence vs. not soldering.

I'm currently running 6 taps With about 104' of track without any power drop issues.

Hey Scaf, I would recommend just letting the wires be exposed on the sides for now. It won't look pretty but Like you said no sense in swiss cheesing your tables.
Just use wire nuts temporarily untill your satisfied with a layout.
Take it from me I changed my layout a number of times but luckily some of the track covered the extra holes and the scenery will help hide the rest.

Attached is my working layout. The small squares are approx where my terminal blocks are located, under the table.

I have indicated the sections of track where I was planning to put power taps.

Please feel free to comment on these locations.
I'm guessing your layout will run clockwise, so those locations are in a perfect spot as the most power demand will come from the start of the straights.

If you inspect all of your connections periodically and use a small amount of corrosion resistant grease when you assemble everything your track should run great with the added power feeds. The room condition can have an affect on the time it takes for your connections to get dirty though. The race room at my old house had a severe temperature fluctuation through summer and winter. Because of that my track floats between the wood inlays to allow it to shrink and contract and only the power connection pieces are fastened down. I pulled it all up every so often and clean all the connections. The track would shrink nearly .5" over a 20 foot span and leave gaps in some places until it warmed up. Something to consider if you're planning on permanently securing the track to the table in a room with big temp changes like a garage or non-insulated basement. When I first screwed it all down, my track became severly distorted and twisted when the room in the old house got cold in the winter. :freak:

Besides soldering and smoothing connections, some even go as far as running continous rail in place of the factory rail sections. :dude: