Hello Hank and all.
I think this discussion board could use a new "Duratrax Discussion" so I figure, hey, I'll start.

My Nitro Quake has had one heck of summer. But, I'm looking for a way to soften the suspension to be real squishy like. I find mine are rather stiff overall for the oils I've tried. Kind of an experiment.
Has anybody tried to get a squishy feel to the Nitro Quake?
What combo of springs/oil did you use and did you modifiy the suspension arms and/or tower?
Or, more general, what are the best combo between springs/oil did you all find best on the N/Q? And which situation (Big bumpy hill, big jumps,...)?
I've been useing the Heavy Silver springs from Duratrax on the back and the stock springs on the front with 90 weight oil all around. I love it on big jumps and real rocky ground, but it lacks an ability to turn sharply.
Anyways....

Thanks.
Progcraft.

I'm using the stock springs in front with Kyosho MP7 white springs on the rear. I got these before DuraTrax come out with theirs. I think I have 60 weight oil all around... mine is pretty "squishy".

I read in another post that duratrax may eventually release some carbon fiber hop-ups for the evader. I urge you to email them and request that they manufacture them. May not do anything, but at least they'll know we want 'em.
What setup do you use on your evader? What hop-ups? And has anybody found a good aftermarket body that can easily be mounted on the evader?

Check out the Evader topic on this board for a lot of good info on some aftermarket stuff that will work on the Evader. There are some parts for the Losi XXT that work with the Evader.

Hi -
Any body designed for the Losi XXT or XXXT seem to work fine. I have a Pro-line F150 XXT body painted up on mine. Check out my other post under the Evader Hop-ups thread for a cool bulkhead brace.

Jep

You can see a MF XXXT (Losi Fury) body mounted on the Evader at http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showgall&gid=8 (it's the green and yellow one).

Here is a snap of my lego themed pro-line XXT body. This is the first R/C lexan body paint job I ever did. It has been thoroughly bashed about. XXT rims all the way around with Losi directionals on front and Losi step pins on back.

Jep

When you use the losi body, will the pre-painted ones work? It looks like the body mounting holes aren't in the right spot. I realize that it probably won't work, but that would be a lot more convenient than painting and reaming my own body if it did.
Has anybody tried a trinity p-94 in their evader? I plan on getting a duratrax streak esc and a 12 turn double or triple wind p-94 (I'm also considering a reedy ti or a team orion chrome modified-- which of the three would you recommend?) Thank you all for answering my questions.

The Losi mount locations are very close, but I think the front ones are slightly off for the Evader - the rear ones were right on (judging by the pre-scored holes that were on my clear body). Do the pre-painted bodies come with the holes already punched? I thought even pre-painted bodies came un-cut so the user could tweak the final mount location.

Jep

The bodies I were looking at were pre-painted with the body holes already punched, but I may have been looking at a triple-xnt body, not one for the xxt (I would assume that the two would be quite similar, but I don't know.)
BTW, cool looking evaders, hankster and jep:thumbsup:

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
BTW, cool looking evaders, hankster and jep:thumbsup:

Thanks! - Don't get an LXT body - the rear shocks are mounted differently and the body will not fit the Evader:cry:. Go to the Pro-line website: http://www.pro-lineracing.com/ and compare body pics for the XXT and LXT(nitro) trucks, the rear shock wells are positioned much farther back for the LXT. You should be safe with any body designed for the XXT, XXTcr, or XXXT.

I'm thinking of turning my evader into a race-ready truck. Planned upgrades include a duratrax streak esc, 12 turn double trinity p-94, and a few of the losi xxt parts. Any ideas for other upgrades? Thanks

A 12 turn will be pushing it with the Streak. If you want a speed control that has a nice feel to it and can handle anything try the LRP V7.1 :) A more affordable choice when compared to the 7.1 would be the Novak Dually

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
I'm thinking of turning my evader into a race-ready truck. Planned upgrades include a duratrax streak esc, 12 turn double trinity p-94, and a few of the losi xxt parts. Any ideas for other upgrades? Thanks

Tires, tires, tires! Soft springs, and heavier weight shock oil - but a lot depends on your track - ask the regulars. For our track, I like to have a pair of step pins and a pair of bow ties on-hand for the rears (Losi or Pro-line, doesn't matter). I run Losi Directionals, or Pro-line The edge, or similar on the front. The toughest part for me was getting the Evader to calm down and stay down on our track (fairly rough)- the stock springs were just too stiff and the car bounced like crazy. I went with the Duratrax white soft springs and 30wt oil and it jams! Also battery position made a huge difference on rear traction - I was loose on acceleration when exiting turns - I cut the battery pad in 1/2 and put 1/2 on each side of the pack (putting the pack further back by 1/2 the pad width) - this really helped get more traction out of the turns. I run the stock motor and ESC with a 23 tooth pinion and have plenty of torque and great top end - right now I really don't know what I'd do with extra power, my skills aren't up to it. I would suggest waiting on expensive electronics and motors until you have raced the truck many times - get to know it's setup and got your driving skills dialed in, *then* consider more juice. Good Luck!

Jep:cool:

Thanks! I already have a set of different springs (both green and white) and heavier oil (35 front, 30 rear.) As far as tires go, I have proline dirt hawgs on the back. They work fine for now because I won't be racing soon, and they are quite versatile. I probably won't get a new motor soon 'cause I'm saving up for a T-maxx, and I don't want to spend too much before I get (plus it would shorten my run time, and since I'm not racing I'd rather stick with the longer run time.)
Thanks again, Your suggestions will not go unnoticed:D

Yesterday I got an ipc pro sport esc. Took me a wile to get it set up (it took me about an hour to realize I had it plugged into the receiver backwards.) Now that my esc can handle a better motor, I'd like to get a p-94, I;m thinking of something around 12-14 turns. Which should I get?

iv had a p-94 12 turn layered for about 2 days now and it works greak for me! it had about 35000 rpm (i think) and about 230 whatevers of torque (once again, a guess) so you can get good speed and have to get-go stuff to use a larger pinion. this is just my $0.02

Smojoe, what kind of gearing are using and about how fast does it go?
Thanks!
JB

im currently using a 16 tooth pinion, but i will probly go down to 14 or 13. in a word, its fast. im using it in backyard bashing, and im making it down my diveway (which is 400 ft long) in about 7-10 seconds(this is just a S.W.A.G) and am also geting about 3 times as much higth on my jumps. but i have busted some parts (the diff was the first to go).


hope this helps,
smojoe

Smojoe, what parts did you break? was the breakage a result of the motor or from crashing/hard landings. I can understand how too powerful of a motor can mess up the gears. Is this the case with the diff?

Smojoe, what parts did you break? was the breakage a result of the motor or from crashing/hard landings. I can understand how too powerful of a motor can mess up the gears. Is this the case with the diff?
Thank you!
JB

the breakage was from me bein stupid. i ran a 24 tooth pinion on the speed run, the diff and slipper was to tight, and i was running on gravel. all three stupid things made the diff pop. once i get the diff gear replacement, im just gonna run the 16 tooth, and maybe the stock 18 when running on pavment with my pro-line "Road Rage". so it wasent the motor, it wasent from jumps, it was my stupidity and thinking that the evaders tranny was invincible.

Smojoe, thanks for your reply. I was a bit worried to get a 12t p-94, but now I will.

Does anyone know what kind of servo is in the evader? I'm pretty sure its a Futaba (that I know) s3003. I let my dad drive it the other day, and about a minute into his run, he oversteers a turn and hits a pipe, stripping a gear in my servo.
Thanks
JB

im pretty sure its a s3003. if not, i just replaced it with my dad's s3004 that he had for one of his airplanes. it had a little extra oz. or torque, and it was free, so it was win-win:)

i was wondering if you guys had any experiance with FET servo leades coming from your ESCs? first off, do the evaders have this FET servos and what exactly is an FET servo?

A FET servo uses a FET (field effect transistor) to power the servo giving it more power. They are old technology that is seldom used any more. Most that want high performance servos use digital servos now.

The only servos I know of that use the fet's are ko propos.
I just got a p-94 12t double. I'm pleased with its performance (I haven't had it up to top speed yet because I put the servo horn on the servo wrong, and the transmitter trim won't completely straighten it.) The only problem is I see a lot of sparks comming from the comm/brush contact area. Is this normal? I can see how it is, seeing as how there's a lot of electricity being transfered into a moving part. Thanks
JB

once i wore in the comm/ brushes a little, the sparking faded. there will be some, but not as much as when it is brand new.

what kind of servo do you have? are you running the stock servo or something else? i was going to get maybe s9303 by futaba, but its 70 bucks (a little steep for me rite now, im busy fixin all the stuff i broke) and was wondering what servo ur running in ur evader.
:confused:

hey JB and all you other guys who read our conversations,
i was just searching through the Duratrax section on tower hobbies and their going to make a MT and BX version of the evader. did u know that allready or is this news to you? if you have any info on them, please post it.

I run a Hitec 5925MG digital servo. They aren't cheap but they sure are nice.

hankster-
how much torque does it have?

128oz at 6 volts. The big difference with digital servos is the holding power which is about 3x the torque. Once the servo is in position it has 3x the power holding the servo at that position.

A normal analog servo actually has less holding power then the rated torque. But a digital servo does use more battery power. In offroad that isn't a factor.

I have always used good high torque servos but I can tell the difference using a digital one. I think it is the holding power that makes the real difference. While I can't prove it I believe that you do get some servo deflection with analog servos that you don't get with digital ones.

The Hitec digital servo gears are guaranteed for life so I tighten down my servo saver to basically make it solid... that could help too. But I wouldn't recommend that for anyone else even though I have not had any problems in 1.5 years.

do you have to have a special transmitter/ reciever or can you just stay with a stock one?

I use a futaba s3003 in my evader, at least untill I can get the Hitec that I want. This summer I'm gonna try to get a t-maxx, the new servo, and a Hitec lynx 3d.
Smojoe, thanks for your reply about the sparks, and no, I didn't know about the mt/bx versions of the evader.
JB

that AND a t-maxx? dang, you must have a lot of money.... me on the other hand, i can bearly afford a new set of tires here and there. after the LRP and the p-94, i cant really afford anything. lol, i only have 7 bucks in my wallet rite now after ordering the "RC Motor Black Book." oh well, guess i gotta wait till x-mas to buy that XR2....

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
Smojoe, thanks for your reply about the sparks, and no, I didn't know about the mt/bx versions of the evader.
JB

What is this about the MT and BX versions of the Evader?
I have heard nothing of it.

phil-
i was surfing the tower hobby site and i did the search by manufaturer. it came up with two RTR electric vehicles and i clicked to see what they were. they were the evader st and evader mt. then i went back and clicked on the RTR cars and there was the evader BX. i have no other info except that they are supposed to be out around Sept.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by smojoe
[B]that AND a t-maxx? dang, you must have a lot of money.... me on the other hand, i can bearly afford a new set of tires here and there.



Thats only if I do a lot of work this summer. I mean 5 days a week, 8 hours a day at my mom's office, and filing papers will make you go insane if you do it too much. I probably won't get the servo or the lynx 3d, those are just my hopes for the future. Not too likely.........
Just reallize that I am a teen so I don't have to pay rent or utilities or anything like that, I can't drive for a while so I don't need to worry about a real car (and I'll probably end up with my dad's mazda, which, by the time I can drive, will have 120,000+ miles on it). Again, these are just high hopes generated by the idea of my first summer job. The odds that I will make that much money this summer are slim.
Sorry if I've spent too much time rambling on about this, I just don't want to look spoiled or anything by hoping for all of that.
JB

Originally posted by smojoe
phil-
i was surfing the tower hobby site and i did the search by manufaturer. it came up with two RTR electric vehicles and i clicked to see what they were. they were the evader st and evader mt.


Would you be able to post some links? Thanks!
JB

JB-
lol, i clean my neighbors pool as a job. dont worry, im just a teen too. i have dreams of a e-maxx, but like i said, i have to get a new set of front tires first.... and the links..., well..., just wait a few mins....

proof of the BX (and some other car i dont care about).
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p.pgm?c=CAC&V=DTX
and proof of the MT.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p.pgm?c=CAI&V=DTX

this is just the proof, there is no other info on anything.

p.s. these sites look exactly the same to me, so if their bad, dont blame me, blame....., umm...., no comment

Can't wait to see the evader mt and bx. Should be interesting.
Just out of curiosity, Smojoe, what kind of tires are you gonna get?
I could probably use a new set of tires/wheels. All four of my wheels are cracked or damaged in some way.
JB

While I'm on the subject of broken wheels, what wheels seem to hold up the best? I know RPM makes durable products, and their wheels for losi trucks should fit the evader.
Thanks
JB

for the front, something by pro-line it will be. the back, i currently use Dirt Hawgs mounted on associated rims. for road use, i use Road Rage all the way around mounted on RPM "clawz." Wut do u use?

JB-
What kind of batteries do you use? im lookin for somethin for a longer run time, and thought i could get some pointers from you.

Hi All,

Re: Wheels - I use the old Losi XXT/XXTCR yellow disc wheels front & rear. I picked up a bunch of these real cheap on a close-out somewhere - they hold up great.

Re: Tires - I run on dirt only, Pro-line Bow-Ties on rear and Pro-line The Edge on front. This combo is like running on rails on our track - the truck just sticks.

Re: Battery packs - I have a mix of Trinity Amp-Max II packs (Sanyo 1500 mAHr cells) and homemade packs based on Sanyo 2400SCR cells (I get free and/or cheap samples of these cells through work - Tee Hee :devil: )

Jep
Visit Jep-R/C for Evader Hop-Ups at www.geocities.com/jep_rc

Originally posted by smojoe
JB-
What kind of batteries do you use? im lookin for somethin for a longer run time, and thought i could get some pointers from you.

I use team orion 2400 mah rocket packs. They aren't pro level or anything, but they work well. I'll have my run time posted later. What I like about these batteries is the cost. They are about $17 at my lhs. While they aren't as good as other nicds for power or nimh's for runtime, but I think that the price makes up for this. Think about it: For sixty bucks you can get 1 good nimh or three rocket packs (as well as maybe some new brushes or other things). 1 nimh=3000mah. 3 rocket packs= 7200 mah. They may not be the best for power, but for the cost, they can't be beat.
By the way, Smojoe, thanks for all of your help:wave:
I hope that this helps you!
JB

Hello I'm new to rc trucks and I bought the evader Tues. I stripped the ball studs out of the rear and again on the tie rod tonight. Any advise to repair the threads would be helpful. Also what type of plastic is the chassis made of. Thanx

the chassis is made from a "stress- tech" plastic that duratrax makes. as for the ball cups, i dont know. i slightly remember something that i learned about that in Car Action, but not enough to help.