I would check it. I just heard that plastic gears go better with metal gears.

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
I would check it. I just heard that plastic gears go better with metal gears.
but the "absolute" are plastic. at least im pretty sure...:lol:

Oh... In that case I would consider getting them.
All right! 400 post mark lol.

it said on the robinsons website that "when you give it the gas, you can hear the wheels hooking up. its that quite" (or something like that i read that a while ago)
400 post, huh? bet half of those are mine. lol..

Originally posted by smojoe


i know what you mean... when my roadrage tires are still cool, i can do 360 spin-outs. when their warm, they hook up like an electro-shocked monkey... :lol:

Yeah dude!!!

Now my truck is for double-duty. First, lets me release all the pressure and stress I have built during the day, and second, helps me give my dog it's daily workout... He likes to chase the truck from one corner of the street to the other, barking, slobbering all over it, and everything, I can barely get away from him (The dog chases the truck, instead of...).

If I get the new ESC by next week, I'll get one of those P94 motors you guys talk about, and see if the dog can keep up with the truck after that... :cool:

Before you put new spur gears on make sure your pinion is in good shape. Chewed teeth on a pinion can wreck your spur pretty quick.

Robinson spurs are first rate. They are milled rather than just molded. Thier precision makes for a quiet and smooth transmission. :thumbsup:

Originally posted by MiguelRomero

If I get the new ESC by next week, I'll get one of those P94 motors you guys talk about, and see if the dog can keep up with the truck after that...

simply put, he wont.. lol..

You should get the 8 turn monster wire version. The dog couldn't keep up with that (unless you have an exceptionally fast dog) Sure, it may blow the tranny, but it would be cool

geeze! stop with the monster wire thing allready! go buy two and put them in your maxx. it wont weelie, just flip on its lid instintaniously

i would if it weren't for the cost. The cheapest esc that i know of that can handle that motor is $90, and i'd need 2

I am having a problem with my slipper clutch. I just cleaned it out and no matter how hard I tighten it, the motor will not even spin when you turn the wheels. I took slipper apart again to make sure I had all the parts and it's still very slippery. Finally I had to put a piece of foam between the two metal plates. Anybody know what's wrong?:confused:

talking-
does it make a loud sound when you give it the gas? is so, its the diff, not the slipper. if not, check the diff anyway.

No. It did not make a loud noise. I know it wasn't the diff because it worked fine after I put the foam thing in. Also, I could see the two plates slipping.

ok, skip that.. i have no clue then... only thing i can think of is the slipper plate is to slipperey. anyway, wait till hank posts a reply, hes the expert here, not me..

I cleaned out the slipper after I just rebuilt the tranny. I am still pretty sure it is the slipper because the foam thing seems to work fine.

I just went to duratrax's website and they had an aluminum bulkhead for the Evader. Just click on the new products section and they have a list with pictures of all the duratrax evader hop-ups.:thumbsup:

i had that happen to me, i just super glued it so it won't slip and let the diff do the work.

Originally posted by Speed Buggy
i had that happen to me, i just super glued it so it won't slip and let the diff do the work.

the diff isnt made to do the sipper's work. if you run for to long, or just gun it a lot, you'll start melting diff gears. what i do is is take an xacto knife and make little slits on both sides of the disk. that, and i pretty much crank it down when i run my p-94; works for me. if that still doesent work, try replacing the disk and disk holders.

I've let my diff slip too much (not because my slipper failed or anything, I'm just too lazy to tighten it up whenever I hear it slipping and I haven't rebuilt it yet.) If you let it slip too much, you'll eventually have to rebuild it. That brings me to this question: What do I need to rebuild a diff?

If I get the new ESC by next week, I'll get one of those P94 motors you guys talk about, and see if the dog can keep up with the truck after that



I have a aurora 9 by 2 and my dog can keep up with it only for about 100 feet befor she gets tired and stops. One of my freinds was raceing a dog but the dog cought the car and tore it to shreds.

Wow! You must have a fast dog. A 9T would probably go at least 35 mph.

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
...That brings me to this question: What do I need to rebuild a diff?

diff gear, diff balls, diff ball washers, thrust ball holder, thrust balls, the little washers around the thrust balls (i shattered one. dont ask..), lock nut, diff bolt, and i think thats it. you might be able to get by without the diff and thrust balls, but they come with the gear and holder, so you cant go wrong..

Originally posted by RS4MT




I have a aurora 9 by 2 and my dog can keep up with it only for about 100 feet befor she gets tired and stops. One of my freinds was raceing a dog but the dog cought the car and tore it to shreds.


What do you feed your dog??? lol

My truck has a 17x2 Team Orion, and manage to get away from my dog, but he does gives the truck a run for it's money.

my dogs scared of my truck. then again shes also afraid of cars, trucks, lawn mowers, weed wackers, leaf blowers, soccer balls, shoes.. the list goes on...

My aunt's dog is afraid of my trucks, especially the e-maxx

hey smojoe, how is that ultra metal pack holding up for you?

iv only got to use it once sense i got it. dang diff blew up and now im waiting for the parts from tower. other than that, it works fine. lol

I think I may have found a fix for the stripped gears.

I blew my fourth diff gear today (grrr). Anyway, took the tranny apart, and I noticed that the idler gear shaft has some slight play when you put it in the recess it goes inside the tranny case. I think that maybe this is the cause for stripping gears. This play transfers to the idler gear and screw up the gear mesh when the tranny is under heavy load. I put a tiny (and I mean tiny) drop of CA glue to one of the ends of the shaft, put it in the tranny where it goes, let it dry, and put back the tranny together.

I wanted to give the tranny a real workout, so I tightened the slipper all the way, and ran the truck for about an hour (6 battery packs). I made sudden stops, hit the reverse, mashed the throttle forward several times. The tranny held up real nice, even did a couple of wheelies. Took it apart, and the shaft was still glued, didn't budge. Gears looked OK.

I think this is a design flaw of the tranny cases and the idler gear. I believe the idler gear bearings should go into the cases instead of into the idler gear (just like the Associated trannies). I strongly believe the tranny cases should be redesigned.

I'll give it more testing tomorrow and let everyone know. It's too late to do more testing at this time (it's almost 2:00 AM here).

One thing, if you are going to try this, do it at your own risk. Use a tiny amount of glue, let it dry completely (at least an hour) and only glue ONE SIDE OF THE SHAFT. Once that shaft is glued, it won't come off. If you glue both ends, you won't be able to take apart your tranny anymore, unless of course, you break the tranny cases

Originally posted by smojoe
my dogs scared of my truck. then again shes also afraid of cars, trucks, lawn mowers, weed wackers, leaf blowers, soccer balls, shoes.. the list goes on...

Well, my dog likes to chase my R/C cars, even the nitro ones. He also likes to chase lizards, flies (he eats them, yuck!!), bees (was stung by a bee once, but that didn't stopped him), other dogs, cigarette smoke (don't smoke, it's a disgusting habit), birds, full-size cars, and the list goes on... Only thing he's afraid of are thunderstorms and firecrackers.

Back to the topic...:D :D

On Associated and Losi trucks and buggies, the bearings are in the idler gear. Here is a picture:
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascc6360.jpg

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hankster
[B]On Associated and Losi trucks and buggies, the bearings are in the idler gear. Here is a picture:


Is that from the electric???

I'm looking at my RC10 GT Idler gear, and the bearings go in the the tranny case. That's the one I was refering to. Here's is a pic:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/ascc4670.jpg

thanks for the reply, miguel. however, i dont strip diff gears; i melt them (lol). anyway, im going to do what you said. i too noticed that the idler gear has play, but i never thought iw was enough to hurt anything. i guess it is.. anyway, you did WHEELIES with your evader? :eek: man! iv been trying to do that sense i got the truck..

Smojoe:

I did the wheelies by putting the truck in reverse, let it gain some speed, then mashing the throttle forward. I really wanted to see if I could strip the gears, but I couldn't.

I gave the truck a second session of workout today, to see if I could strip the gears, but it held together just fine.

Also, when I was rebuilding the tranny last night, I noticed that the thrust bearing ball holder disintegrated, along with one of the metal washer. I fixed it by first getting two new washers of the same size, polished them a bit with some fine grit sandpaper, then, I took eight 3/32 steel balls (same ones that go into the diff), and sandwiched them between the two washers. I packed them with Associated black grease, and put it all back in. No problems until now...

Boy, this truck has really hooked me up, isn't it?? I haven't even looked at my 1/8 buggy for two weeks...:thumbsup:

That is the style gear that goes into the B2/B3/T2/T3 transimissions. The B2/B3/T2/T3 are electric and the gears hold up well in those vehicles so it's not the bearing placement.

Originally posted by hankster
That is the style gear that goes into the B2/B3/T2/T3 transimissions. The B2/B3/T2/T3 are electric and the gears hold up well in those vehicles so it's not the bearing placement.

I think is more like a parts-fit, tolerance problem. Should have a tighter tolerance, shouldn't have any play.

Anyway, the tranny is holding just fine. Hopefully I'll be able to test it with a hotter motor next weekend

miguel-
next weekend? what do you do, WORK?!? ( :lol: ). i dont quite understand your fix for the thrust ball holder? are the balls just sandwiched between the two washers? i guess that would work because the inside of the outdrive is holding it in and the washer is keeping it away from debris. i'll have to try that after i get my stuff from tower...

Originally posted by smojoe
miguel-
next weekend? what do you do, WORK?!? ( :lol: ). i dont quite understand your fix for the thrust ball holder? are the balls just sandwiched between the two washers? i guess that would work because the inside of the outdrive is holding it in and the washer is keeping it away from debris. i'll have to try that after i get my stuff from tower...

Answers:

Question 1: Yes I do, plus I go to night shool, full-time. Got to get the dough for the hobby from somewhere. :D :D

Question 2: Refer to question 3.

Question 3: Yes, held together with some Associated black grease.

To keep the dirt and crud out, I took a small piece of packaging foam and stuffed it into the outdrive. The CVD keeps it from falling off.

I'll said it then and I'll say it again, man this truck really hooked me up!!!

Can anyone tell me if the Robinson spur gear is plastic or metal and would the metal one last longer than the stock one. Also what is the part number for the Robinson spur if I wanted to pick one up. thanks

Hi All,
Regarding some of the discussion about diff and idler gears....

I think some of the problem is actually loose tolerance in the diff ball holes in the Evader diff gear. I noticed the balls actually snap into the Associated and Losi gears, but they are loose in the Evader diff gear. If you hold an Assembled Evader diff in one hand by squeezing the outdrives between your palm and fingers, you can grab the diff gear with your other hand and move it back and forth - this causes the gear not to be concentric to the axis of rotation and I believe can cause busted teeth. Try it and let me know, but I think this may be one reason why we are loosing diff and/or idler teeth.

Jep

do any of the metal ball holders/ gears for the AE and losi cars fit and work in the evaders diff? once again im trying to bulletproof the tranny. thought i had it there for a while, but didnt.. :lol:

Originally posted by DOC2869
Can anyone tell me if the Robinson spur gear is plastic or metal and would the metal one last longer than the stock one. Also what is the part number for the Robinson spur if I wanted to pick one up. thanks

im going to get my robinsons "Absolute" spur in a few days. i'll tell you then if the T2/ B2 spurs fit.

thanks a bunch smojoe. I will be awaiting.....:D

Jep, the loose balls could be part of the problem. The diff gear also doesn't have the center hole exactly centered, causing it to be farther away from the idler on one side. I checked this when the diff. stripped only on one side. Use a asc. 2:40 diff gear. all you have to do is bore out the center hole to fit the evader bearing. It's best done in a lathe but I think it could be done on a drill press being careful and the right size drill. You have to use the asc. diff rings for that 2:40 tranny. If your melting them you got bigtime diff. problems.

I have broken a couple of parts off my evadar and I’m contemplating whether I should get the aluminum replacements or just the stock plastic ones. Has anyone gotten the aluminum parts, do they hold up better or worse? I know aluminum is lighter, but it does bend. well any advice would help? thanks

Aluminum parts are heavier then the plastic parts.

22-
iv only melted 2 so far. the last one was about 2 months ago. thats when i learned that the diff was to loose. as for the diff gears, iv found a few on tower, but dont know which one is which.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hgic1070.jpg
the GT/ T2 diff gear

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hgic1080.jpg
the B2 diff gear

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hgic2050.jpg
the XX diff gear

sory bout all the pics, but im lost on which to get. any help what-so-ever i would really appreciate.

Originally posted by jep_rc
Hi All,
Regarding some of the discussion about diff and idler gears....

you can grab the diff gear with your other hand and move it back and forth - this causes the gear not to be concentric to the axis of rotation and I believe can cause busted teeth.
Jep

Sounds like you have found the flaw. Once assembled there should be no play as you describe. Is there anyway to shim the diff gear or its suport bearing to prevent this movement? If so you may be able to cure this design flaw.

Go to your local hardware shop. they'll probably have all kinds of of washers and spacers.:thumbsup:

Originally posted by DOC2869
thanks a bunch smojoe. I will be awaiting.....:D

well it works. i can tell a difference in acceleration allready.. also got a team orion "rush" 19t. works much better than the stock photon. stays cooler also. my evst runs, so im happy :)

I cant seem to get the solder to hold the wires from the ESC to the motor. I have the P-94 10t motor [url]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAVF9&P=7
I dont know if Im doing something wrong.
I havent dont this before so its possible. any help would be appreciated..