Im curious what the lowest wind turn motor anyone has put into thier evader and how were your results. I know you will have to change the esc if you go any lower than 16t. But if you put in a 12T would you also have to chnage any thing else. can the truck handle that much power..

all you would need to change is the esc.

Originally posted by smojoe
anyone know if any of the robinsons racing spurs can mount onto the evader without modifications?

There pinions will work for sure. The Spur is another matter. Your best bet is to contact them through thier web site http://www.robinsonracing.com/.

has any one heard about the evader mt?:confused:

Does anyone have an opinion between the P-94 14T triple rpm or the P-94 10T quad split. It seems you can get any type of P-94 set up you want. Im looking to increase torque (from the stock photon) and really increase top speed..any suggestions on which P-94???

I used a 12t double in my evader, and it was very fast. You could try putting an 8t monster wire p-94 in it, but you might damage the tranny (I know smojoe will think I'm insane for recommending this....)

Originally posted by smojoe
anyone know if any of the robinsons racing spurs can mount onto the evader without modifications?

I have used a 78t and 90t spur gear by duratrax, they bolt right on, but the 90t is very close to the gear cover and sometimes hits it.

I also have ordered 81t and 86t.

I'll post ratios if anyone wants

The Evader uses standard spur gears that fit the RC10T3.

I've been using Kimbrough spurs, they fit fine and are better quality.
Doc, just try a Speed Gems or a Rush, 16-19 turns, I think you'd be wasting money on a p-94 if your not racing. Or maybe even that new speed gems that has the p-94 brushes. I'm not convinced a mod is harder on the tranny, I had just as much trouble with stock motors, they have more torque.

Hey Jep,
There's a race on the weekend after labor day in Starbuck Mn. It's a 3 day race. First day practice, second heats, third finals. I guess it's indoor dirt offroad. I have no idea if I'm going but I figured it's about the same distance for you. I have more info if you want it.

i have an evader and the back wheels keep falling off. does any body have a solution to this problem, yes i did tighten the wheel nuts.

racer jj-
1. do the locknuts come off on their own, or when the wheels come off, do they stay onto the axel?
2. is it the wheel (plastic part) or the tire (rubber part) that comes off, or the whole thing? if its just the tire, you need to glue it on.
if its the whole thing comes off an the lock nut still stays on, then im swamped.

hey smojoe, I'll ask my parents about sending you those brushes for the bumper.

The wheels are glued but the lock nuts just don't seem to be holding. i have to search for the lock nut because it comes off befor the wheel comes off.

racer jj-
you might be able to find new locknuts at a local hardware store. im pretty sure the evader axel's are 3/16 of an inch. or you can try locktighting them on if that still doesent work.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 22Racer

Doc, just try a Speed Gems or a Rush, 16-19 turns, I think you'd be wasting money on a p-94 if your not racing. Or maybe even that new speed gems that has the p-94 brushes. I'm not convinced a mod is harder on the tranny, I had just as much trouble with stock motors, they have more torque.

Thanks for the info 22racer-i think your right about the p-94. what motor are you running and how do you like it....much better than stock?

I've thought of some good e-maxx racing techniques:
Passing: You don't pass, you go over. Same with when there's a crash. Go over, not around!
turning: approach the turn at speed, don't let off the throttle, and turn sharply. Let the truck roll over the barrier and into the next area of the track. Or just climb over the barrier.
Jumping:try distracting the other racers by doing all those fancy flips and everything. Or if the jump points towards the driver's stand, see if you can jump it up there and take someone out. That's 10 pounds of truck flyin' at ya
sorry for the rambling, just felt like posting this

jj, Most likely the lock nuts are wore out. 10 of them cost about $2.00

JB- lol. ten pounds of truck flyin at ya. ouch! during the bus ride home (started school this week) i was thinking of the ultamate bashing e-maxx. here it is..
Chassy:
that trophy racing a-arms and stuff
full aluminum chassy and skid plates
proline maxx-masher tires
Robinsons Racing aluminum tranny
wheelie bar(ur gonna need it)
electronics:
dual LRP F1 pro ESCs (no motor limit, reverse, and the works)
digital hi-torque servo (maybe hitec...)
JR racing XR3
P-94 8 Turn monster wire motors (heres where the wheelie bar and tranny comes in.)

it might be heavy, but THIS would be a jumping and wheelie machine!
:lol: :lol:

Here would be my setup:
the trophy class rc suspension
just like you, aluminum chassis/skids
some chevron tread jumbo maxx tires and the corresponding rims from imex
Lightweight gears from traxxas or RRP
Wheelie bar (heck, you need one in stock form)
electronics:
2 brushless motors (something like Hackers, not the orions. orion said they would be as powerful as a brushed motor of the same wind. I also hear just one brushless motor is more powerful than the 2 titan motors. Just imagine what 2 would do!)
The proper esc(s) for the brushless setup
airtronics servo (the 200 oz/in. of torque one)
hitec lynx 3d/jr xr3/ airtonics m8 (they would all work)
well, that would be one nice machine. Oh i forgot one thing:aluminum shocks. I hope to pick up a set of dynamite shocks soon. (they are aluminum and filled from the bottom, so they should fix my cap problem. I am actually afraid to jump my maxx, because i might pop off a shock cap (can you believe it? a person worried about jumping an E-maxx?)

as for the truck flyin at ya, did you see the pic in the newest issue of rccar action of the t-maxx a guy put 2 model rocket engines on?

ya, i saw it. the only thing they are go for (at least in the air on a t-maxx) would be steering in mid-air. your trying to give a 15+ pound truck air with solid fuel rockets that are meant to make a rocket that weights no more than a pound? good luck! on the evader, it would work.. :devil:

If you would like tro talk about Maxx's, then please start a new Maxx thread. This thread is for helping Evader owners. Thanks.

ok. i was wondering when you were going to tell us that. sorry

Originally posted by hankster
The Evader uses standard spur gears that fit the RC10T3.
does the RC10T2 also use the same type of adapter?

oh, once again, sorry about the maxx thing. wont happen again.

They should be the same. I normally just buy "pan car" spur gears they have always fit.

ok, another thing (im making a big tower order); do you guys think that this will fit if i leave the motor guard off? id be running it onroad anyway, so i dont think it would matter if i took off the guard. any imput/ opinions?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTC78&P=7

Originally posted by smojoe
ok, another thing (im making a big tower order); do you guys think that this will fit if i leave the motor guard off? id be running it onroad anyway, so i dont think it would matter if i took off the guard. any imput/ opinions?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTC78&P=7

Looks like it would fit, but, I took a look at my Evader and the motor guard also serves as a brace between the rear end of the chassis plate and the top of the tranny. I think not using the motor guard would affect the integrity/strength of your truck.

I installed the optional motor mount/heatsink on my Evader. Does the job and it looks cool too. Pricey though...

I have question: Anyone knows if any of the MIP CVD's would fit?
I want to get the aluminum ones. I'm doing a weight reduction program on my truck.

Originally posted by MiguelRomero

I installed the optional motor mount/heatsink on my Evader. Does the job and it looks cool too. Pricey though...


i was actually thinking of getting both. JB knows how hot that P-94 gets after a few packs. youch!

Originally posted by smojoe


i was actually thinking of getting both. JB knows how hot that P-94 gets after a few packs. youch!


I know what you mean!!! I'm racing mine with a Team Orion 17x2, geared 18/88, and it does get hot after couple of packs. I have taken readings of 145-150 degrees with my temp gun after 4 packs of hard racing.

i use a 12x2 p-94; but only for onroad. way to much for me offroad. i guess i'll just get the motor mount. your the only guy i know of that has got it, and you said it works, so i'll get it. i hope it works for me too. the places where the regular mount meet the tranny case are starting to melt away. once i saw that, i knew i had to get heat away. fast. are there any other hop-ups that you think i should get that are worth it?

You could always try putting ice on the motor and bring the temp down really low before your run. This way, when the run is over, it should be warm, not hot. I have also heard the a really cold motor develops more power.

I Just got a p-94 12t and it doesn't even get that warm with a 18 tooth pinion gear. :cool:

Originally posted by smojoe
ok, another thing (im making a big tower order); do you guys think that this will fit if i leave the motor guard off? id be running it onroad anyway, so i dont think it would matter if i took off the guard. any imput/ opinions?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTC78&P=7

I used this one without the stock motorguad and it works good for cooling and for a guard, but it needs glued or screwed on. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXTG84

The stock motor guard doesn,t seem to add much as far as connecting upper and lower. It is rather flimsey.

Originally posted by Talking Evader
I Just got a p-94 12t and it doesn't even get that warm with a 18 tooth pinion gear. :cool:

Holy Cow! You're lucky! With a 17t pinion mine gets smoking hot.

Same, i have a p-94 12 turn and an IntelliSpeed esc. When i run a 7 cell both the esc and the motor get way to hot to handle, i'm using a 17 tooth pinion.

same here, too. 7 cells (or just my HV 6 cell)and a 16tooth get mine so i can cook on it in one pack.
geeze, everyone took our advice and got 12 turn P-94s it seems, JB

Hey, you're right! Cool lol.

found a great way to clean out bearing(s):
first, you clean the outside with WD-40, then dry them off, let then set for a while (like 10-15 min); then repeat. when done with that both times, take a small dish or cap to something and fill it with mineral spirits, then put the bearing(s) in. i, personally, let it set overnight; but you can probably get by with just letting it set for an hour or two. when done with that, dry them off, and install.

p.s. i dont know what the mineral spirits will do to the rubber sealed bearings, so i wouldent risk it unless you do..

Word of advice, DO NOT get aluminum CVDs. They break often and wear out quickly. I've seen them get trashed in 2 weekends of racing.

Ok, so now we know that that P-94 12t runs two hot. Maybe a 12t is just too much, but then again they make these motors and even faster ones for that matter, so maybe the heat issue isnt such a big deal. I guess you just have to replace these low turn motor sooner then the other ones. oh well, sometimes preformance is expensive!:p

Originally posted by hankster
Word of advice, DO NOT get aluminum CVDs. They break often and wear out quickly. I've seen them get trashed in 2 weekends of racing.

:( OK...

Anyway, which regular CVD's would fit, if you know???
Also, do you know which diff rings fit this truck?? I was racing it yesterday, heard a clicking noise, thought I busted another diff gear, but no, each ring has nasty groove. Going to the LHS tomorrow to get some street tires, and these other parts...

Thanks

today i was running my evader with a 7-cell and a p-94 and an intellespeed 8t. the battery i was using was getting low and all of a sudden it just started running by its self, i tryed to catch it but i was too late, it drove right into my pool. so much for the intellespeed and by other electronics. If you have an intellespeed do not run the battery down. And also i would not recomend getting one!!!

that's a bummer. I would complain to duratrax if it wasn't mentioned in instruction manual that it would just take off if the battery was run down.

Not sure what, if any, CVDs would fit. I would suspect that none will be a bolt in fit since Losi and Associated uses English bearings and the Evader uses Metic. Call MIP with the dim. of the stock units (plus bearing sizes) and they should be able to tell you if any will fit.

Well, got some new street rubbers for my truck today, Proline Road Hawgs, plus 4 HPI rims, and on top of that, XXT graphite front and rear A-arms. LHS guy told he didn't recommend them for off-road use, but they look soo cool :cool: . I didn't knew how much fun these things are on the road :thumbsup: :cool:

Originally posted by MiguelRomero
Well, got some new street rubbers for my truck today, Proline Road Hawgs, plus 4 HPI rims, and on top of that, XXT graphite front and rear A-arms. LHS guy told he didn't recommend them for off-road use, but they look soo cool. I didn't knew how much fun these things are on the road

i know what you mean... when my roadrage tires are still cool, i can do 360 spin-outs. when their warm, they hook up like an electro-shocked monkey... :lol:

I finally got my p-94 fixed. It just needed to be trued and the brushes were changed. I put it in my evader with a losi 16t pinion. The losi pinions have a large flat spot next to where the teeth are, And that made a flat spot on my spur gear. Oh well... I'll have to pick up a few at my lhs.

JB-
good thing you got it goin again. if your LHS has them, se if the robinsons racing "absolute" spurs fit the evst. im thinking of ordering one off tower and i need to know (then again, its only 7 bucks...)

Maybe. I think I'd rather just get a few of the plastic ones. This is the only problem I have yet to have with them.

just see if it fits for me; you dont have to buy it. lol. ya, i've had trouble with my spur too, thats why im looking for something better than just a duratrax replacement.