dont worry about the different plugs; the only difference between the JR and the futaba is the little lip on the side is gone. you just have to make sure you dont plug it in backwards (learned that the hard way with my ESC).

Do you think it would work the stock futaba receiver without changing the plug? I read on a different board that the red (or was it blue?) 4 way servo arm that comes with the 645 will work if you buzz off the two thin projections and one of the thick ones on.
BTW, about learning not to plug in the wires backwards with the esc, I had the same problem with my ipc pro sport. It took about an hour for me to figure out it was plugged in wrong.
JB

i'll try it tommarro and post my results. im to lazy to go down and see. lol, took me like 3 hrs. came home from school, tryed to race car down hallway; didnt work. 2 hrs later, dad came home, and was flipping through ESC manual and there it was: problem; motor wont run but is recieving power. solution; plug is installed incorrectly. and you wonder why i dont race, i just dont know my truck that well...

JB-
the JR plug fits into the futaba reciever. you just have to make sure it faces the rite way, because it fits in both ways (the little black wire can go tword the back or front). another thing; where have you guys been? i'd check back morn and nite for the last week and no one ever posted anything.

Originally posted by smojoe
i dont know, i havent ever used a 6 cell. the thing i dont get about racing is all these guys are buying $100 battery pack because of their "high voltage." why dont they just run 7 cells(or cant they? i dont really know)? its another 1.2 volts of power, which will make everything sorta go faster.

ROAR and IFMAR made 7-cell packs illegal some time ago. I just learned our track still allows them. The fact is that a 7-cell pack will not run as long as a 6-cell pack. The more voltage you have (number of cells) will mean more amperage draw (capacity in Mah's) therefore shorter run times with 7-cells. Ohm's law strikes again.

Ok, maybe I'll get the servo with the jr plug since my lhs doesn't have them with futaba plugs.
How is your jr xr2 holding up, smojoe? It seems like a nice radio.
It's kind of weird hearing about everybody's problems with their evader. I haven't broken anything in 2 mmonths and haven't had any problems with the tranny. Maybe I'm not "having fun with it".
JB

bobt-
oh.........., well......, i still run 7 cells.

JB-
XR2 runs great! i havent had any problems with the programming or anything. i even left it out in the sun for like 2 hrs (it was 102, so ya, its a big deal) and nothing happened except it got hot (duh). the only reason your not breaking stuff is your not going fast enough. run the P-94 with the stock ESC and youll go fast enough (or just blow it to smiterines:lol: :lol: :lol: ).

I try to be careful with my evader. I don't like to thrash my stuff.:D most of the time when something goes wrong it happens with my electronics.
JB

JB-
not here. all my problems are with all the little parts (servo arm, pinion, diff, etc.). the first thing i did with my evader was bulletproof the electronics, because i knew that they would be the first to go out in bad situations (rain, rain puddles, etc.). i try to be careful too, but sometimes you just want to see how high you can get off a jump made of flibsy board and 5 gallon buckets(oh, and for informations sake, im pretty sure i got my truck up to 6 feet high). this stuffs expensive, and my wallet is finding that out.

How did you bulletproof the electronics? If were on the subject of jumping, I think I've gotten my evader 4-5 feet high. That's not that high, but my jump is on grass, so I can't get good speed, and the wood is slippery, so I can't get much traction.
JB

you just.., sorta..., no comment. why do you jump on grass? you know its bad for everything. at my friends house, we jump from the road (which has extremly little traffic), over the curb, and into the grass; spending only seconds in the grass. this is good because the grass acts as sort of a slipper clutch for the wheels. what im tring to say is jump INTO the grass.

thanks for wasting your life reading this,
smojoe

I don't have much room to jump from anywhere but the grass. In my backyard, I don't have much concrete. There is one good spot, I suppose, so I'll give that a try. Out front, we could put it in the street, which has little traffic also, but we would have to move it whenever a car came by. But then again, understand what we are using for a ramp: I used to have a bearded dragon, and my dad and I made an outside cage for it. It is about 2-3 feet tall and and almost as wide It has wood chips in the bottome of it, so it weighs about 7-10 pounds. I use three narrow boards put next to each other to form the incline. The ramp cannot be moved as a whole unit, so It would get annoying to have to move it everytime a car came by. That brings me to this question, smojoe, what are you using as a ramp?
JB

Hmmm ramps?..... well i use a snow shovel....2 boxes and wood ramps and i also use about a 3 foot tall dirt mound...all layed about the yard into a small track formation..its fun...but all i have is a very grassy yard......so far i have had the car about 5 foot high on one jump and landed on its back tires.fliped in the air and landed on all 4 and kept going.....my sister almost had a pic of this...hehehehe.....

i am getting ready for out first race comming up in 2 weeks at out new local track..and this track has on jump where you have to go over another part of the track....lol...i see the wreckage comming..lol.......

any way..try using a snow shoel for smaller jumps..just a idea..works for me:)
Kevin

when i dont feel like blowing up my tranny, i have a big piece of wood about 6'x 4'(6' wide, 4' long) screwed onto a piece of wood about 1 1/2' high and 3' long. it works well and is pretty easy to carry. if you have a front lawn, you can do what i described (with the jumping into the lawn from the street).

Originally posted by smojoe
bobt-
[snip!]the only reason your not breaking stuff is your not going fast enough. run the P-94 with the stock ESC and youll go fast enough (or just blow it to smiterines:lol: :lol: :lol: ).

Top Qualifier for Mod Buggy:
Jeremy Esparza with 8/5:28.71

-- Mod Buggy - A MAIN --
pos Car Laps time name
1 3 9 5:26.39 Paul Gibson
2 4 8 5:01.96 Bob Tierney
3 1 8 5:08.15 Jeremy Esparza
4 2 8 5:10.25 Matt Motsinger
5 6 8 5:15.93 Wes Miravalle
6 8 8 5:23.02 Joe Meyer
7 5 8 5:36.46 Josh Walker
8 0 7 5:55.86 Aaron Hatcher
9 9 6 5:38.22 Ray Hutchings
10 7 3 2:04.42 Mike Lorenz


Top Qualifier for Mod Truck:
Jermery Esparza with 8/5:14.97

-- Mod Truck - A MAIN --
pos Car Laps time name
1 2 9 5:38.29 Bob Tierney
2 1 8 4:47.02 Jermery Esparza
3 3 8 5:04.78 Matt Motsinger
4 4 8 5:19.91 Chris Light
5 5 8 5:29.94 Joe Meyer
6 6 8 5:56.50 Tony Howard
-- 7 --- DNS --- John Rodgers

I'm going just fast enough in Mod-Truck. I do need to work on Mod-Buggy.

;)

Sure Bob..rub it in.hehehehehehe.lol

kevin

uhh.., bobt, not to ruin your excitement of winning first and second, but what i said was to JB_the _evader, not you. other than that, congrads!

BobT-
What kind of buggy are you using? What radio/esc/motor? What did you lose to? Congrats on the placements!

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
BobT-
What kind of buggy are you using? What radio/esc/motor? What did you lose to? Congrats on the placements!

I run a Losi XXX buggy, the original (3 years old), GM V12 ESC and a Trinity Dirtinator (D1)12 double. I lost to a better driver. ;) He was running a Losi XXX KE.

do any of you guys know how to drive heat away from the motor better? my stock one (even with the stock gearing) gets very hot. also, have you guys ever felt your outdrives when done running? mine get extreamley hot and was wondering if anyone else had problems. if anything, this is the reson i have trouble with the diff gear; its simply melting it.

Be sure your gear lash is set correctly. If it is too tight your motor will over heat. The gearing sujested for your motor is a starting point but you may need to adjust. If everything else is ok then gear down 2 teeth and recheck your temp.

As for your outdrives and axels being hot, be sure your ball diff is not slipping. Slippage will cause enough heat to melt your diff gear. After a rebuild run the truck for one or two laps and check the diff. It will loosen as it wears in.

ran it right after i posted and the motor didnt get hot. my P-94 on the other hand..well, i guess thats supposed to get hot...

as for the diff, i dont see what im doing wrong. i do the "tighten it down all the way, then back it off 1/8 of a turn" and it still doesent work.

Smojoe, I found with mine I have to tighten it up all the way and leave it there. Haven't had any problems with it since first rebuild. One thing I do is tear it apart quite often and clean and inspect. I add alittle more losi grease than say JEP, he posted only one drop per gear. I run a p2k2 pro with a 18 pinion with no bad luck, except the usual crash destuction. Does any one have ideas why my batteries get extremely hot after a run and discharge?

when i twist the diff (with it out of the car) it feels gritty. is that supposed to happen or am i just not cleaning it well enough. la.dano, i'll try that when i rebuild (more than likeley later on today). the reson the batteries are getting so hot is the amp draw is fighting against the internal resistance (or something like that). thats pretty much normal.

Originally posted by smojoe
ran it right after i posted and the motor didnt get hot. my P-94 on the other hand..well, i guess thats supposed to get hot....

I know what you mean. After two packs, I can't even hold my finger against the motor plate .

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
I know what you mean. After two packs, I can't even hold my finger against the motor plate .

ever tried (or even looked at) the http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBDJ8&P=7 heat-sink motor mount thing? for twenty bucks, i want to know if its any better at displacing heat.

Smojoe I weht through my rearend again last night and polished the diff washers, and new bearings but still has the gritty feel. I am convenced that is going to be normal. I have tried pretty darn hard to get it out with no luck.

thank you, La. Dano and BobT. i finally got my diff situated. and yes, it was to loose. now im getting about twice the exceleration and can even tell battery life has incresed. however, the motor heat is back. gear mesh is perfect (used the paper thing), geared down two teeth on pinion, everything on motor checks out (comm, brushes, etc.), and im stumped. next thing to do is make/ buy a endbell mounted heatsink and buy that motor mount/ heat-sink thing.

SmoJoe,

Your mod should run cooler. What pinion are you running and what wind is the motor?

A quick rule-of-thumb is 4 teeth over the wind. If you are running a 13 turn motor you should be using a 17 tooth pinion. 13 + 4 = 17.

Don't know what to tell you with the diff accept to check it in-between runs.:confused:

bobt-
its not my P-94 (which is a 12 turn and i use a 16 tooth); its my photon speed motor that gets very hot very fast. using a 22 tooth, even the stock 20 tooth pinion gets it hot. its clean (tore it apart and cleaned it out 3 days ago) and i just dont get whats up with it.

Hi all:

I just got me a new Evader, and I'm already having trouble with it. Just stripped the third diff gear this week (I bougth the truck on Wednesday, used it twice, four packs). I have adjusted the slipper just like the video says (let it slip 2 feet) but still I'm stripping the gears. I'm using the stock motor with 3000 amps packs.

I'm running the truck on a smooth, dirt track, with no jumps.

Does anyone knows if any aftermarket diff gear will fit??? I'm getting frustated with the truck. Any help greatly appreciated...

Miguel,
Your diff is probably slipping, causing the diff gear to get hot. You need to tighten it down all the way. (as tight as you can get it) then back it off 1/8 turn. If it has been slipping alot you need to rebuild the diff. with new washers and balls. I've found the Associated ones are better quality. I think the associated washers are for a tc3 or just compare them. I've never heard of gears going out with the stock motor except from the diff slipping. We broke quite few idlers on our backyard track. (see photo, that is an Evader) But I fixed that and haven't had the tranny apart for a 1 1/2 months.

22 when are you going to have a couple of extra dff builds like yours for sell? I'm interested although I haven't broke anything the last month. Did you use a aluminum topshaft? lighter is better. By the way, is anyone having trouble with medium trottle turning I'm runnig pro-line "edge" like the xxxt at my track. but they carve it up ahole lot better than me.

Originally posted by 22Racer
Miguel,
Your diff is probably slipping, causing the diff gear to get hot. You need to tighten it down all the way. (as tight as you can get it) then back it off 1/8 turn. If it has been slipping alot you need to rebuild the diff. with new washers and balls. I've found the Associated ones are better quality. I think the associated washers are for a tc3 or just compare them. I've never heard of gears going out with the stock motor except from the diff slipping. We broke quite few idlers on our backyard track. (see photo, that is an Evader) But I fixed that and haven't had the tranny apart for a 1 1/2 months.

Thanks 22

I'll try it today.

Later

Originally posted by 22Racer
Miguel,
Your diff is probably slipping, causing the diff gear to get hot. You need to tighten it down all the way. (as tight as you can get it) then back it off 1/8 turn. If it has been slipping alot you need to rebuild the diff. with new washers and balls. I've found the Associated ones are better quality. I think the associated washers are for a tc3 or just compare them. I've never heard of gears going out with the stock motor except from the diff slipping. We broke quite few idlers on our backyard track. (see photo, that is an Evader) But I fixed that and haven't had the tranny apart for a 1 1/2 months.

22: I just e-mailed you regarding the diff gears. Later

Miguel :roll:

Dano,
Just the diff gear and idler gear I alter, the diff I just use asc. washers and balls.(with stock diff gear tc3 washers,with a altered 2:40 diff gear I use the ones for that, there bigger) Our evader's diff is real gritty too. I think the small balls in the outdrive need to be replaced. I'm just using the stock top shaft.
We use proline edge also, my son has a xxxt mf his is faster but not by much. Try moving the battery foward, we have ours in the middle (spacer cut in half) Mostly it's just throttle steering feel and experience.

Miguel,
I emailed you. to everyone else I'm going to order some gears to alter this week. I'm thinking enough for 5 tranny's just to start out. I'll let you know when I'm done. What's the easiest way to pay for them? I don't have a business so I can't take credit cards or anything like that. I'm thinking just a money order, any othr ideas?

Miguel, I was just down your way in april. We went on a cruise to St. Maarten, St. John and St. Thomas. I saw Puerto Rico as we went by. I was suprised when we saw a Rc track in St. Maarten, it looked like it hadn't been used in a while.

22-
thats one good lookin body! lol, wish i could paint like that. i see you have red springs in the front. they look awsome with the body. im thinking of painting my springs another color just to make them look cool. ok, back to the question... have you ever seen the robinsons racing stuff for the RC-10? if you get R/C car action, their on page 71. have you ever tried or looked at these?

My evader has finally been bumped up to "racer" status from basher status. I plan on racing soon with it, as opposed to just running it around the back yard, messing up my diff (having problems, time for a rebuild). However, My new E-maxx should be a great basher. That thing will wheelie till the cows come home (or the batteries dump.)
What tires would you recommend for a hard packed, damp surface. I need to get rear wheels for my evader.
JB

pro- line "bowtie" would maybe be your best bet. when you get the maxx, tell me about it. thinkin about buyin one myself. how are those trinity 3000's working out? havent mentioned them sense..., well.., a while ago.

I got the e-maxx yesterday. Probably one of the coolest things about it (besides the size) is the 2-speed. It's awesome listening to and watching it shift. It is a GREAT climber. I haven't had a chance to put it through a good test with dirt (my backyard is mostly grass), but it can climb straight up the high part of a curb.
About the battery , it is a very nice battery. I haven't been using it much (I've been putting all of my free time into playing Final Fantasy X on the PS2). It definately does give good runtime with a stock motor. I have a tendency to charge it cause I think I am going to use it, then I don't, so I have to go out in front of my house to discharge it, then I wait for it to cool, then I get to sit in my garage, where I keep my rc stuff, till it has 40-60% of a charge.
Do you remember when I said that if you were ever down in Southern CA that you could race at Mile Square Park? I went there saturday. They took out the entire hobby area to put in a golf course. Darn...
JB

how much did the batts and emaxx cost at your LHS. if their cheap enough, im sure i can talk my dad into a trip to los angelas..

I didn't buy any new batteries with the E-maxx, although I will. I may just buy more rocket packs ($17 at lhs) or triniy maxx packs (sold in pairs). They don't carry those at my lhs (bad selection of batteries), but I found another hobby shop (not to localo, but it isn't too far) that might carry them. The E-maxx was $290, compared to $320 everywhere else (leaves enough to pick up two batteries).
There should be hobby shops in LA. I don't live in LA, nor is the hobby shop there,but close to it. If you do come out here we've got disneyland( but that's a bit boring), knott's berry farm (they have a new zero-to-eighty in two seconds coaster), six flags, and other great tourist attractions. Even if your last statement wasn't true, you could always try to convince your dad to bring you out here for the tourist attractions. But then again, is $30 worth it?
JB
I just thought of this: Check out www.ultimatehobbies.com. this is my lhs. It would be easier to just order the emaxx on the net.

maybe not my dad, but my friends dad will. he talks us all over cali just to see things and do stuff. if anything, i'll go down to see legoland (another one of my hobbies). currently im trying to talk my dad into buying my evader so i can buy an e-maxx, but its not working that well.

I took my e-maxx to a nice track the other day. I would have brought my evader had I remembered that I was going. My friend brought his his kyosho ultima with him. He is the better driver of the two, but he hadn't used his truck in a while, so his driving was a bit off. The E-maxx was ok on the track. I couldn't corner to hard for fear of flipping, and the tires wouldn't hook up on the hard packed dirt, but I had a great time. I crashed my e-maxx quite a few times. I scratched up the body and blew off a shock cap, but the body doesn't matter and the shock cap was easily screwed back on after refilling the shock. I had the only traxxas there; everybody else with offroad vehicles had losis or associateds. I wonder how my evader will do?
I think I would like to turn my E-maxx into my first project car. I would like to make it strictly for climbing and crawling up and over stuff. Of course, I also plan on doing lots of jumping. For climbing, what kind of upgrades are recommended? I know diff spools front and back will help, but will they hurt the turning too much? I still would need low speed maneuverability. Will it be hard to pick my way around obstacles at low to medium speed with the spools installed?
What tire is recommended? My guess would be pro-line maxx mashers. What about the suspension? Would the pro line suspense kit help, or would it lower my maxx to much to be effective in going over large rocks? And how about gearing for torque? I still want good speed, so should I go down a few teeth on the pinions or up 6 or so teeth on the spur? Or both? Thank you for help and I'm sorry this is so long!
JB

JB-
i think just the rear spool will do fine if you still want it to corner ok. it might powerslide a little more, but it should be controlled well. the PL suspension kit should work, but you might want to pick up some aluminum skid plates. i might drop 2 teeth on the pinion and see how that works. then again, on all this, im no Maxx expert, so dont believe everything i say.

I am definitely going for the aluminum skids. As for the rear spool, I think you're right on the money. Even traxxas says that only having a rear spool will make the back end slide around, giving better lap times (but I'm not racing, so that wouldn't apply to me). That would, however, give me equally split power in the back, which may be enough to get it over piles of rocks and stuff, while still giveing a some steering. I like that idea; Thanks!
As for the gearing, I could probably leave it where it is; anything that can pop wheelies like it can must have tons of torque already.
The only concern about the PL suspensiom kit is that it lowers the ride height. I have heard that It makes it more stable when climbing. More stable; but lower. I bought an E-maxx for it's aggressive MT looks and capabilities and I might want to make it lower? lol:D
JB

wow! i was right?!? about the PL suspension, you might look for some longer shock shafts (if they even make longer) if your going to get it. that will give you a little more highth, but not enought to make that 1" not worth your while. if not, just get some aluminum A-Arms to get some weight down south. i would locktite almost everything on the maxx, for if your going to go moutain climbing, the screws are going to get knocked around. you might also want to try this for the shock caps (just a little thing i read on the traxxas forum).

I suppose lowering the maxx would be a good thing, seeing as how it has a high center of gravity. I was looking at the big bore shocks at tower hobbies. They come completely put together, but not filled! I have to tear apart 8 shocks to fill them, then put them back togther again. I think they should be sold unassembled if they have to be torn down. But then again, they are aluminum. I'm still debating on aluminum bumpers. They seem like overkill (and dead weight). I can get the molded ones from RPM for a lot cheaper, and I hear they are quite durable. The same about the rear body mounts; they are starting to break. If I buy an aluminum version, my shock tower might break. I get an aluminum shock tower, and instead of it breaking, it breaks the bulkhead or whatever it's attatched to, and so on and so forth. That could get more expensive than I would like!
JB

I was at a different forum reading about the brushless E-maxx setups, so I went to tower hobbies to check out the prices. The new Orion brushless motors and ESC are due out late this month. Maybe that would be a good upgrade for the E-maxx. Smojoe, if you can, you should stick an 8t brushless in your evader! That would be cool! And you thought you blew idler gears before that... The motors are $87 each and the controller is $170.