also I can not find if they make alluminum idler or diff gears that will work. will the allum nitro evader diff gear fit?

It sounds like you may have put the slipper spring in there instead of the trust bearing spring. Try using blue locktite instead of red, it will allow disassembly.

I don't think the Nitro gear will work, but if you read "Jerrits Evader FAQ" on this site, you will get all sorts of advise on using Associated Diff gears and rings, as well as carbide balls to make the Evaders diff virtually bullet proof. If you can contact 22Racer, he may still make the custom Aluminum Idler gears also for the electric Evader. He may even still provide the proper Assoc. diff gear with the enlarged hole in the center.

Good Luck :thumbsup:

On a happy note:

I was able to get an hour of play time at the LHS track today since the weather is getting nice. The Evader worked flawlessly through four battery packs. There was a guy there with a Nitro Losi truck, and we decided to try some speed runs out in the parking lot. My brushless had no problem keeping up with his nitro! I was happy to say the least, and I did not have to worry about noise, starting problems, and I had reverse!

I hope spring-time is being good to everybody. :wave:

I think my truck knew its days are numbered. First off the x'tal wasn't in the rx right and it glitched like crazy. Then the second battery pack didn't charge right. Then when installing the third pack the motor wire came loose, had to resolder it. Then to top it all off I got my ESC wet and the truck was trippin out!

What a day!

My truck is going to turn into a RS4 rally pretty soon. Actually turning into cash then an RS4 Rally...

How much do you think a roller is worth compared to a RTR?

also I can not find if they make alluminum idler or diff gears that will work. will the allum nitro evader diff gear fit?

The aluminum idler will fit into both versions of the Evader, but the Nitro Evader diff gear has a larger diameter than the electric Evaders diff gear so they wont swap.

The aluminum idler will fit into both versions of the Evader, but the Nitro Evader diff gear has a larger diameter than the electric Evaders diff gear so they wont swap.
Well, what do ya' know!??? I was not aware that Duratrax was making an aluminum idler gear for the Evader. I checked Tower's site, and for $16.99, there it is. A very smart upgrade for you guys who have problems with your tranny!

Thanks Mastec!

Hey guys, I was just looking for some advice on a problem I'm having with my ST. From a stand still when I gun the throttle I'm getting the "seal" bark from what sounds like my slipper plate (probably for the next 5-7 ft). I've done some maintenance tips I've found here about adjusting slippers but no luck. I've tried replacing the slipper pad. I'm running a P2K2 with an 18pinion and 88spur gear. I've had the RC for about 1 month and have run about 20 packs through it since I've gotten it. I routinely do the diff adjustment where I tighten it snug and then back it out 1/8 of a turn. Could the problem be with the gears in the tranny?

Sorry for the long post... this is a great thread.

Thanks

When you thighten the diff back it off just a little bit, if at all. For some reason the directions say 1/8th but the truck runs better with it snug. Let us know if this does not work.

Thanks Bill... I made it snug and just ran it a few times. It seems to be working well. Thanks for the help

OK guys, dig into your history books. I have been running Losi XXT rear arms on my Evader ST. They are part #9810. I finally broke one, and I happened to have a new set of XXT graphite rear arms in my spare parts, but they are #9809, and they are longer. Too long, the drive axles hardly touch the outdrives. Did the XXTs come with two different rear ends?

Yes the XXT did come with two arms. I under stand that one of the arms combined with a few other parts is what is known as the "CR" kit. This kit is supposed to offer the handling of the XXXT. What I have wondered for some time is: Will the CR kit give the Evader the same type of handling and Will it fit????

Hey guys.
i have an epic outlaw pro 19 with a 18t pinion on my electric evader. I effectively locked my rear differential to achieve positraction using red locktite on the nut. however, now the bolt that goes through the outdrives is too close to the edge and barely allows the cvd to fit in. which also makes it so my shocks on that side dont work because the cvd cant slide into the outdrive. how can I fix this. Keep in mind it is red locktite together so i cant really take it apart.

the best way to fix is to file down the end of the nut. try using a small file. but you way have to try to remove the diff screw. if you do, do that i wouls ay loose the spring when you put it together and use a much shorter screw.

orbitron:
roller evader? i bought a rtr with traxxas big bores for less then $50. so i would maybe ask $65-ish with the bodies and some extra tires.

;) and no i don't need a third..... my son wants to gut his electronics and build a tlt(he turned eight last week and scored almost anuff).




on another topic what has everybody else added to the rc fleet? or intend to pick up? would like to just get a few of the evader pro parts, and anuff parts to finish off the rusty to stampede conversion(finally). i have added a the tlt to my slow growng fleet. it's my favorite rc ever! dosen't need many hop-ups, but i dao have a proto typr penguin rc chassis on it.


have a good day all
peter
:thumbsup:

when repacking the tranny gears back into the plastic case, what is the best oil/grease/lube to use?

on jep r/c's website i noticed he no longer does business... does anyone know where we can get his unique hop-ups?

thanks for any help guys...

i used to use ae stealth grease, but have switched to a really thick cable grease from bocca. if you race and need/want a really smotth diff go with a tamiya/ae ball diff grease if you just bash i would go with a thicker grease ae black grease.....

peter

on jep r/c's website i noticed he no longer does business... does anyone know where we can get his unique hop-ups?
If this is true.... the Evader is in trouble. I would never run one without the Jep RC front brace. I couldn't keep up to the breakage. I have three Evaders. Two equipped with JepRC front brace and one with an aluminum bulk head. The one with the aluminum bulkhead still gets some front end breakage but the plastic bulkhead and JepRC equipped units are bullet proof. I have one spare Jep front brace and I wouldnt trade it for an aluminum bulk head even up. I notice that the pro evader has the same stress tech as std models (not graphite) front bulkhead. I hope Duratrax wakes up and emulates the Jep front brace system.

Yes the XXT did come with two arms. I under stand that one of the arms combined with a few other parts is what is known as the "CR" kit. This kit is supposed to offer the handling of the XXXT. What I have wondered for some time is: Will the CR kit give the Evader the same type of handling and Will it fit????

Follow up to my own comment and question. While surfing through the original evader thread that began with Hanksters new product review on the Evader, I found someone who had equipped the evader ST with the XXT CR rear tower and rear A arms.

I used black grease, ae diff lude and even a lite auto grease, but now I use Lithium grease in my tranny. Its runs smooth as silk.

Philp37 -
DuraTrax does make a front brace for the Nitro Evader. But they dont make the brace for the backside of the bulkhead. I wish they would. My kids would stop breaking suspension arms. I think I will take a photo of the brace and a truck to a local shop and see if they can make me several of those rear braces.

UPDATE: Just found a link for Losi XXT braces just like those that Jep sold since XXT and Evaders are interchangable. Little more expensive but it sure beats replacing plastic all the time. http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog&parent_id=208

Thanks for the info Mastec... I put in the order so as soon as they come in I'll let you know how they are. Although I've never had a set of the originals so I won't have much to compare them to.

Thanks again

Philp37 -
DuraTrax does make a front brace for the Nitro Evader. But they dont make the brace for the backside of the bulkhead. I wish they would. My kids would stop breaking suspension arms. I think I will take a photo of the brace and a truck to a local shop and see if they can make me several of those rear braces.

UPDATE: Just found a link for Losi XXT braces just like those that Jep sold since XXT and Evaders are interchangable. Little more expensive but it sure beats replacing plastic all the time. http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog&parent_id=208[/QUOTE]

You are right... it is the back brace portion that is so important. That is why the aluminum one piece front brace from Durtrax is of little or no help. Even the aluminum bulkhead helps little. Are you sure this is a two piece brace and are you sure that it fits. I believe the front bulkhead system for the XXT is quite differant.

Follow up to my own comment and question. While surfing through the original evader thread that began with Hanksters new product review on the Evader, I found someone who had equipped the evader ST with the XXT CR rear tower and rear A arms.
on evader #1 i have xxt cr shock towers front and rear. the only diff is they have a few more ounting locations for the shocks. the front c-hub/spindles from the xx work for the evader as well. they give the truck a little better turning, from better geomitry.

Are you sure this is a two piece brace and are you sure that it fits. I believe the front bulkhead system for the XXT is quite differant.

Well, I found an exploded view of parts for the XXT and it is almost like looking at the Evader manual. http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/exploded/xxt.pdf By the looks of it, the Evader is just an XXT with a different name.

Thanks Mastec for the link to the Losi drawings. I now have the answer on the rear arms that didn't fit on my Evader. The Losi XXT arms are longer that the XXT-CR arms. The XXT-CR arms(#9810) will fit the Evader, but the longer ones will not.


Live and learn...

Glad to help :wave:

After running down a battery I've noticed my Tamiya style battery connector running off the ESC is hotter than HADES!!! Also it is almost impossible to disconnect. I have a couple of ideas but thought I'd leave it up to the experts. This problem appears to have started after getting a new Duratrax 12T ESC... I'm running a 13T Speed Gem on a 22t pinion and an 88t spur. I'm not exactly killing it but I'm sure the new engine could be the culprit for the heat. Also I noticed the black cable does seem a bit corroded. According to Duratrax help, that is a "black wire corrosion". So I'd assume either my engine is causing all the heat, or the black wire thing, or even both. I know you can prevent black wire by disconnecting your battery when not in use (which i already was doing). What do you guys think I should do to change this heat problem?

All suggestions are welcome... Thanks!!!

i say go with deans or power pole connectors. tamiya plugs are know to heat up with high draw motors. and they break down over time.

good luck

how is the evader handliong the 13t?

Thanks for the advice. Is that pretty much my only option for that problem?

The evader handles the 13t speed gem well. For a novice driver like myself, it gives good speed and torque with some decent battery time. I enjoy it alot more than the D5 12t I had in it before. That was alot of fun but wrecks at that speed can get expensive. That's what's prompting me to build up a second chassis with all the aluminum hop ups.

I'm not a great solderer... so can anyone tell me which one is easier to solder? Power poles or Dean's?

I'm not a great solderer... so can anyone tell me which one is easier to solder? Power poles or Dean's?
Power poles.

I would also suggest getting rid of that 22T pinion gear. I ran a 13T Speed Gem in my Evader, and I never went bigger than an 18 tooth pinion.

Buying a good strong soldering iron(spend the extra $10 for the higher wattage) and a set of those "third-hand" clamp assemblies is a wise investment that you will keep for many years. The third hand will help if you decide to use Deans plugs like a lot of us do.

Best of luck!

Thanks again everyone for all the advice.

It was a toss up between Deans and Powerpoles... since powerpoles are easier to solder I was leaning towards them. I also read somewhere that they have 3x less resistance and stuff. Is it the general consensus that Deans are better or Powerpoles? How much better? I might just suck it up and learn how to solder well rather than go for the easier of the two.

I'll change the 22t to an 18t with an 88t spur. Thanks... with that "ratio" in mind what would you suggest running with the Epic Binary Pro, P2K2 Pro and Monster Pro... something like a 16t???? I understand the gearing aspect and I have all the charts for gear ratios. But the one part I haven't found much on is how to directly correlate what engine you're running in relation to your gear ratio. I can gear my engine fast as anything but it still boils down to the engine that is pushing the gears. And I haven't really found much in the way of setup sheets with others showing what gears with what engine.

Sorry for the long post... and thanks again.

hey long posts are fun, as long as they have a point! i myself don't solder well! use deans solder! made my soldering jobs better. power poles are nice but you have to be carefull about crossing the wires. were deans the plugs only go one way.


you might have the motor a little over geared, but i still think it's the tamiya plugs going bad.

I use Deans on my kids trucks. I used them 15 yrs ago and use them today now that I am back into the hobby.

okay for all you veteran battery builders! when you use battery bars "how do you attach them"? i have tinned the cells and the bars, but it didn't work to well. thought about just tinning the cells and heating the whole battery bar at once to get to seat to both cells at once?! is that the way to go?

i have the deans jig, deans solder and a 40 watt soldering iron,

thanks for the help/tips

peter

i usually scratch up the cell on both ends so the solder sticks.. then put on a little solder and also tin the bar... the key is A VERY HOT IRON.. if the iron is not hot enough it will cold weld and not properly heat the solder and will come apart..

u also need to use enough solder to hold it on... it should not be just tinned.. the solder should flow over the bar , but not to much...

i usually scratch up the cell on both ends so the solder sticks.. then put on a little solder and also tin the bar... the key is A VERY HOT IRON.. if the iron is not hot enough it will cold weld and not properly heat the solder and will come apart..

u also need to use enough solder to hold it on... it should not be just tinned.. the solder should flow over the bar , but not to much...

Yep, What he said ... :thumbsup:

Your soldering iron may be a little on the cool side and contributing to the problem your having. The iron should be probably a 60w unit instead and if possible a flat tip to heat a broader area more rapidly. With the smaller iron the battery may be acting like a heat sink and you are heating up the battery itself more than soldering. just my 2 cents...Good luck!!

thanks for the help guys.
i got the pack resoldered yesterday.
peter

Someone posted a site that had possible replacements for jeps/rc braces (front and rear) that were made for the evader. The replacement parts were made for the xxt and the idea is since they are very similar then they should work.

I ordered mine and I'm attaching a photo of the front and rear aluminum braces with the body that i'm building up. I have never owned or seen the jep/rc braces so I don't know what they look like or if these parts are even like them. It's apparent that the front brace is similar to the duratrax aluminum front brace but the rear is something else. My guess is the xxt rear is different enough to have this type of brace that will not work with the evader. I checked out the xxt diagrams and couldn't find where the rear piece would fit much less on the evader. If anyone knows... then let me know. Otherwise I'm thinking that brace set from racers-edge.com is not a viable solution to the evader.


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=9058&stc=1

I must be a fortunate one. I have yet to break anything but a servo arm on my evader. I have however stripped the gears in three servos so far. I have the servo saver as loose as I can get it but it doesnt help.
Any suggestions?

If you are refering to the front rear brace it attaches to the rear of the pins behind the bulkhead like the front brace attaches to the front.
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/brace_pics.jpg

If you are refering to the rear brace it fits on the front of the pins between the tranny and the chassis where the shocktower mounts.
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/photos102.html

I must be a fortunate one. I have yet to break anything but a servo arm on my evader. I have however stripped the gears in three servos so far. I have the servo saver as loose as I can get it but it doesnt help.
Any suggestions?

Follow the instructions on this page about the servo saver modification. Has worked wonders for my kids.

http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

Follow the instructions on this page about the servo saver modification. Has worked wonders for my kids.

http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/
thanks for the links
peter

Thanks, I ran across that site after my last post. Good info.

Someone posted a site that had possible replacements for jeps/rc braces (front and rear) that were made for the evader. The replacement parts were made for the xxt and the idea is since they are very similar then they should work.

I ordered mine and I'm attaching a photo of the front and rear aluminum braces with the body that i'm building up. I have never owned or seen the jep/rc braces so I don't know what they look like or if these parts are even like them. It's apparent that the front brace is similar to the duratrax aluminum front brace but the rear is something else. My guess is the xxt rear is different enough to have this type of brace that will not work with the evader. I checked out the xxt diagrams and couldn't find where the rear piece would fit much less on the evader. If anyone knows... then let me know. Otherwise I'm thinking that brace set from racers-edge.com is not a viable solution to the evader.


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=9058&stc=1

Unfortunately the rear brace in your photo lying at the back of the evader is nothing like the jep RC brace. The Jep brace system involves a much thinner front bulkhead brace than original equipment, allowing for a second thin aluminum brace to hold the bulkhead/A arm pins together at the back of the bulkhead. It is of the same width as the front brace with hole spacing the same. Yet is quite differant with a drop and bend to go around the bottom of the bulkhead/chassis hinge pin area. Front end breakage stopped completely as soon as I installed these brace sets. As I have said before, it is the only thing that kept me from getting rid of my 3 evaders some time ago. ahhh... here is a link to it.
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/photos101.html

Thanks for the info Phil... it's pretty apparent the braces won't work for me.

Another question, I just got an aluminum horn for my servo. I believe it was the standard single arm type. The holes are too small for the ball joint to screw in. Is the idea just to drill out the hole to fit? Or is there a specific tool to use?

i would just drill it. or maybe a round file?! but drilling it would be easyer. make sure you bit is sharpe!

peter

it's pretty apparent the braces won't work for me.

Do the braces you have look like the ones in the photo I posted?

Thanks for the info Phil... it's pretty apparent the braces won't work for me.

Another question, I just got an aluminum horn for my servo. I believe it was the standard single arm type. The holes are too small for the ball joint to screw in. Is the idea just to drill out the hole to fit? Or is there a specific tool to use?

Where did you find the aluminum horn? I would love to get my hands on some. I have had alot of trouble with the cheesy plastic servo horns from duratrax. I can't keep the splines on them.

Philp37... I got the horn from Servo City... http://www.servocity.com/html/hitec_aluminum_horns.html
Looking back at the page, looks like the dual arm might have been better (it has larger hole diameters)... but we'll see.

Mastec... unfortunately no, they are different than the pictures you posted.

Mastec... unfortunately no, they are different than the pictures you posted.

Mine just came today, I see what you are refering to. I dont know what that small piece is for. But I am gonna pull out my dremel tool and modify the bigger one to fit on the back of the front bulkhead. I already have the front brace so this will make a tad bit stronger.

That's a good idea Mastec... i might give that a try. Let me know if you were successful.

I was able to make a front rear brace. It works great, I tested it by gritting my teeth and hitting something solid. So far so good.... But I would not recommend doing it on purpose. I made it from .025 flat aluminum, which is too thick to use on the electric unless longer pins are used. It takes me alnost an hour each to make them. I am going to go to thinner aluminum once I get it the way I want it. Then I am going to try and find a fabricator here locally to see if they can produce them in bulk at a reasonable price.

http://www.dcm-et.com/temp/brace.jpg
http://www.dcm-et.com/temp/brace3.jpg
http://www.dcm-et.com/temp/brace1.jpg