good luck on the painting of the bodies. only rc has been 18th scale. bought a mini-t(broke out of the box!!) so i haven't gotten the rc fix i was looking for.

peter :p

Eric, Tchr has the Novak brushless for $210.00. Also alot of guy's like the new V2 modified motors, they last alot longer between rebuilds than other mods. We made it up to race a couple times since Christmas. Kendall (my son) won truck and got 5th in stock buggy out of 18 buggy's last saturday. He's never raced a buggy before an that's the toughest class, so he did very well. he just bought the new xxx bk2.
Rex

Hey 22,

Tell Kendall I am really proud of him doing so well at the races. The buggy guys are FAST, so 5th place is outstanding! Happy New Year to you southern boys... :D

Hello Everyone!

I have a sprint esc for my evader bx its good but sometimes when I pull the trigger the esc is turning off (dead) even though the switch is on. have you guys expereinced this?

thanks in advance

Mine did that once , I wiggle the tiny wires going to the switch and one was broke where it was soldered to the esc board inside. I took it apart and resoldered carefully.

Yes mine did it too. Mostly when the batteies were running down. If you chill for just a few seconds it usually fixes itself. I found it was enough of a pain that I bought a new ESC.

Alot of esc's do that, if the voltage drops below a certain amount it shuts off so you you don't try to run and have no steering.

Good Day Guys!!

Thanks for all the repplies, I already fixed my esc and hopefully this will work.

Thanks again.

George
The Only Evader BX User
Quezon City Radio Control Car Club (QCRCCC)
Manila, Philippines

My sons Evader now wears a Chevy Blazer body and can ride a wheelie pretty well with the "stampede-like" upper deck moving the weight up and back.

My sons Evader now wears a Chevy Blazer body and can ride a wheelie pretty well with the "stampede-like" upper deck moving the weight up and back.
what body do you have on your evader?
but the evad-pede looks good. :thumbsup:

Mine is wearing an older Losi XXT body. I am not sure of the manufacturer. I got it as a spare some time ago.

Mine is wearing an older Losi XXT body. I am not sure of the manufacturer. I got it as a spare some time ago.

i have xxt body hanging in my shop waiting to be painted and fitted the evader,. but they both look good.
peter
:dude:

hey mrfixit, I like your new setup! You could easily run two battery packs since the evaders chassis is now empty!

Nice Work pal!

Do you know what other brand fix the evader bx? co'z hobby shops here in the Philippines didn't carry duratrax products. thanks

Hey mrfixit54016....we Evader owners haven't left the planet we're just looking at the carnage from last years season and being thankful there's snow on the ground and a few months before the next season. Can you say maintenance??? I knew that you could!! Right now we are busy getting my sons xxx buggy in shape: new speed control, motor, body, etc. Anybody know of a good adjustable output voltage power supply? Thanks!! :jest:

I took almost a whole year off from R/C. I own three Evader electric stadium trucks. Can anybody tell me what happened when I was gone. Can anyone tell me if there is a bunch of new parts available to improve the reliability of the evaders?

I already have the Jep R/C front braces for each truck and know about the new chassis. The xxt graphite rear shock mount frame looks good, but I have never broken any of mine. (I have broken everything else i think).

What front bumper is the best replacement. Jep, or RPM for xxt... or is there another option out there?

Glad to see that there is still an evader forum going. It is a great resource.

I took almost a whole year off from R/C. I own three Evader electric stadium trucks. Can anybody tell me what happened when I was gone. Can anyone tell me if there is a bunch of new parts available to improve the reliability of the evaders?

I already have the Jep R/C front braces for each truck and know about the new chassis. The xxt graphite rear shock mount frame looks good, but I have never broken any of mine. (I have broken everything else i think).

What front bumper is the best replacement. Jep, or RPM for xxt... or is there another option out there?

Glad to see that there is still an evader forum going. It is a great resource.


as of yet haven't heard of any "new parts" but duratrax is coming out wiht a pro version. think XX-t graphite edition.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140795&highlight=pro+evader


http://duratrax.com/cars/dtxd27.html

Hey... these PRO Evaders are great. Might have to buy one for my stable. It seems a good value at 289.00 USD if you were thinking of buying any of the electronics offered in this package anyway. Most importantly, the Pro series is going to help evader owners with a whole bunch of new graphite parts for replacement. Way to go Duratrax.

Well everyone, I finally got a chance to try the Novak brushless system. I guy was at the local track today with his AE truck that had a month old Novak SS system. He let me drive it, and I was ALL SMILES! This is simply the coolest thing around! My Duratrax 8T Pro ESC is now on eBay along some other items to raise money for my brushless system. I am hooked. It is easily as fast as the 9T motor that I had for a short while, but the INSTANT power is sooooo smooth, that it is almost un-comparable. :eek:

spring's coming soon!

spring's coming soon!
i was thinking about you yesterday! and went to your site to peek for some new pics.

gave my evader st to my daughter and am buying one for $35 rtr for my son. the $35 one is in better shape minus motor then mine. have you been wanting for the pro parts to ship? i want the new T-plate, with adjustable tor-in.

hi all :thumbsup:
peter
:dude:

About the pro, you know, I didn't break any parts this summer and I was going nuts with the large air... I was jumping it at least 2 meters high and landing on flats with no breakage.

But I'm getting the craving for 4wd and brushless so I don't really know what the future holds... I've just got the skills to do galleries on my website but I'm more focused on my micro right now check out the on road section and you'll see what I mean.

That's so awesome $35 wow! You can't beat that.

About the pro, you know, I didn't break any parts this summer and I was going nuts with the large air... I was jumping it at least 2 meters high and landing on flats with no breakage.

But I'm getting the craving for 4wd and brushless so I don't really know what the future holds... I've just got the skills to do galleries on my website but I'm more focused on my micro right now check out the on road section and you'll see what I mean.

That's so awesome $35 wow! You can't beat that.

Orbitron... put your link here. We would all be interested in seeing your site.

About the pro, you know, I didn't break any parts this summer and I was going nuts with the large air... I was jumping it at least 2 meters high and landing on flats with no breakage.

But I'm getting the craving for 4wd and brushless so I don't really know what the future holds... I've just got the skills to do galleries on my website but I'm more focused on my micro right now check out the on road section and you'll see what I mean.

That's so awesome $35 wow! You can't beat that.


TLT! :devil:
4wd and 4ws!
go to the gallery at one18th.com and their is one in there novak ss
ohh and mine is their too

the other day was the first time in almost a year i ran my eveadr(my daughters now ;) ) have gotten better at not wrecking. was spending my time with a speed 400 micro :eek:

Just click on the www button on the bottom of this post or if you wanna go all fancy...

http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/images/webanner.jpg (orbitracing.tk)

Please take note that the offroad section isn't that great (as for styling) compared to the onroad section. I am in the process of fixing it though.

Ronbeck - If I won the lottery I would buy an HPI RS4 MT2 and convert it to brushless that would be great! The old electric one is belt drive how I would love shaft driven power! Also, I cannot search for your user name. Could you gimme a link.

http://www.one18th.com/showtoy.php?id=2123

here is the tlt on novak power. overkill i think. but i'd do it if i had a novak setup. the TO 19x2 rush is almost to much power.

here ar emy toys at one18th http://www.one18th.com/mymicros.php

You silly! Thats my car!! Oops my silly! your link is right there.

I don't know about the tlt. I know the solid axle is better for climbing but I would prefer to get something with independent suspension for driving fast. What sized motor is in that thing.

Also I can only find pro-line, hpi and parma bodies for the micro rs4 where do you get ones like your car?

the body in my gallery is a pti 956 porsche.
i got that one from blindbatts.
i also run radmicro bodies. joe makes them. he has a porsche 917, wrx, benz... and has a few in the works. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jmendoza3/


the tlt uses a 540 motor. it acts like a 1:1 monster. torqueing the front tire off the ground, bounce wheelies, 4ws. but you want 10th scale i think the xxx4 is the way to go. or pick up a used tc3 and get the rally kit for it.

ohh here is a link to pti and to blind
http://www.blindbatts.com/
http://ptiracing.net/index.html


wow what three posts in a day in this thread :confused: :eek:

it's alive :devil:

Just click on the www button on the bottom of this post or if you wanna go all fancy...

http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/images/webanner.jpg (orbitracing.tk)

Please take note that the offroad section isn't that great (as for styling) compared to the onroad section. I am in the process of fixing it though.
i like the hover feture in the gallery.

peter :devil:

I bought an electric Evader ST RTR about 2 months ago.. while the weather has not really been permitting, we have had a few nice days recently (in chicago) so I finally have been getting to drive it. After 3 or 4 runs the Photon Motor completely quit. Even when I connected it straight to a battery it would do nothing.. so I got a new motor for it and am awaiting a replacement from duratrax.

But, the reason for my post is today I took it out (it worked fine yesterday) and it makes a nasty whining noise when I give it full throttle, but it hardly moves. I messed with the clutch and couldn't get any different results. After reading the manual I figured the ball diff might need adjusted so I took it apart, and it was already tight. But, for the heck of it I loosened it, then tightened it back up to spec. NO DIFFERENCE. I haven't even put 12 batteries through this thing yet.

I emailed Duratrax again and they told me to send it in for repair. I would much rather just fix the problem myself and send them the broken parts. Oh, whenever I turn 1 wheel I hear some nasty sounds from inside the trans now.. not that it was ever very quiet since I got it.. but it sounds worse now.

Any suggestions? Could it be the clutch crapped out? The ball diff die?
I figure I'll take it back to where I bought it this week and see what they say about it. 10 years ago I had an assiated RC10 I do believe, and I beat the crap out of it.. driving it down stairs, burried it in the snow.. and I couldn't kill the thing, now this thing here worries me.. not to impressed so far.


Please help.

Rick

i would split the trans case. sounds like it could be a blown iddle gear. it is the gear that is in between the top shaft and the diff gear. did you also check the spur gear?

goo dluck and welcome
peter
:thumbsup:

I was going to say that but my post got rejected. You beat me to it!

This may sound really simple, but is the pinion gear tight?

well picked up evader #2 today. re-packed the tranny with some grease(removeing the old), changed the slipper pad, and removed the qiuck connectors from the motor. and she was pretty much ready to roll. need to see if jep still sells his brace set, pick up two new 19x2-ish motors, and my kids will be ready for a some summertime fun. :thumbsup:

forgot how easy and fun this thang was to work on.
have a good weekend
and mydian? did you get it fixed?

Mydian, I would guess it's the diff. If the diff slips it get's worse in a hurry. Once you learn what it sounds like, (a faint ducks quack) you can tighten it before it get's worse. If you read through some post's on this topic there is some very good diff buiding advice and Associated parts you can use to make it better.

Does anybody know what servo is in the electric Evader Pro? I am looking for another mid range servo and figure any servo that Duratrax would use in the pro must be good value. (provided that is; that it is not the same servo as the std. evaders).

I'm pretty happy with the Hi-tech mg 625

Does anybody know what servo is in the electric Evader Pro? I am looking for another mid range servo and figure any servo that Duratrax would use in the pro must be good value. (provided that is; that it is not the same servo as the std. evaders).


i could find a part number for the servo? i checked tower and the parts list on duratrax's web site.

i ran a jr racing z590, but the new z650metal gear race servo is a little cheaper and has more torque. it's around $50.

good luck, and the stock evader servo is the futaba s3003 servo.
peter
:wave:

Servocity.com might have what you need.

Does anybody know what part number or where I can find the double sticky sided receiver mount spounge. I dont seem to be able to find it in any parts list.

I also have a brain freeze on shock oil... havnt touched them in 2 yrs. 20 wt is lighter than 40 wt... i cant remember?

Does anybody know what part number or where I can find the double sticky sided receiver mount spounge. I dont seem to be able to find it in any parts list.

I also have a brain freeze on shock oil... havnt touched them in 2 yrs. 20 wt is lighter than 40 wt... i cant remember?

You can use a tube of "Shoe-Goo" to mount the receiver, ESC, etc. It is strong enough, yet you can pry it loose if you need to.

I run 35W shock oil in my evader. The larger the number, the heavier the oil.

Now for my question. Has anyone switched to the CVD's that come on the Nitro Evader? I keep tossing the 1.6mm roll pins out of my drive axle joints. I know the the Nitro's CVDs fit, but I just want to make sure they are a super durable alternative. I figure if they can take the Nitro power, then they should handle the Novak brushless, right???

Mrfixit. Did you try putting shrink wrap over the u-joints. After I threw my first pin I did that and never thrown one since.

Mrfixit. Did you try putting shrink wrap over the u-joints. After I threw my first pin I did that and never thrown one since.
Good idea, I remember reading that a long time ago in someone's post. I forgot all about it.

mrfixit. i have put the nitro cvd's on my sons evader st. seem to be better. keep replacing the stock drive shafts because they would get play in the joint alot. he has been running these for about 2 months now, seem to hold up well .

matt

mrfixit. i have put the nitro cvd's on my sons evader st. seem to be better. keep replacing the stock drive shafts because they would get play in the joint alot. he has been running these for about 2 months now, seem to hold up well .

matt


what motor are you using?
peter
:devil:

Thanks Matt for the input. I put the shrink wrap on mine this morning, but I know that the pins still have a tendency to enlarge the holes in the joint, so they develop a lot of slop over time. I will probably change to the CVD axles soon.

I am running the Novak Brushless motor, so it really punishes the drive system. No pain-No Gain :devil:

ronbeck - hey there's alot of motors that this evader has seen. typical trinity stock motors, mild 17 turn mod , and my 11 turn double that i had used to set up my trucks. now the cvds have not seen the 11 turn, but they seem to hlod up well.

matt

Hey guys.
i have an epic outlaw pro 19 with a 18t pinion on my electric evader. I effectively locked my rear differential to achieve positraction using red locktite on the nut. however, now the bolt that goes through the outdrives is too close to the edge and barely allows the cvd to fit in. which also makes it so my shocks on that side dont work because the cvd cant slide into the outdrive. how can I fix this. Keep in mind it is red locktite together so i cant really take it apart.

also I can not find if they make alluminum idler or diff gears that will work. will the allum nitro evader diff gear fit?