The tower site also now shows the PRO version being available in December! Get your letters started to Santa!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFGE6**&P=7

How long do you think it will be before the price comes down? As feature laden as it is, I wonder how many people would pay that much for an evader.

:cool: if the XXT is the same as the evader.... should i keep my 2 XXT'S or sell them, since one is the crgp version:confused:

i like the evader, but want to know wheather it would be worth the cost :confused:

:cool: if the XXT is the same as the evader.... should i keep my 2 XXT'S or sell them, since one is the crgp version:confused:

i like the evader, but want to know wheather it would be worth the cost :confused:

personaly I love my evader st and I might get a new one after the price goes down. but I race with a xxt and a xxt cr and they always have some going wrong. I haven't broke anything on off-road but broke 3 hub carriers,1 knuckle, and 1 a-arm on an oval carpet track. now on carpet there was and evader st that was way to fast for a 100 ft oval and plus a 6 -8 year old was driving. and he broke just about every part so his dad sold it and bought a xxt and the secound day out he snaped the chassie. I guess it all about what you hit, how you hit it, and how fast your going

Yay! It Lives!

Today, it has finally happened. I've got my Evader running at last.

I did end up opting for the Futaba 2phka-am set with the mc230cr speed controller.

At present I'll stick with the "Associated Power 19" motor that came with it but I expect in the long run I'll opt for a good stock motor. Currently running an 18 tooth pinion. I'm using my NiCd cell from "back in the day" last run in anger in about 1990 IIRC! Soon I'll be picking up a 3000mAH NiMH and that should change things a bit.

I'm using the stock body for the moment (uuuuuugly!) and the original green springs with
Losi silver Ribs on the front and Pro-Line Gladiator 2's on the rear.

Still waiting for my Losi wheels and Pro-Line Strikers to arrive but waiting is...

Point is, I've finally been able to take it for a drive.

Happy as a pig in dirt.

hey guys, i just got my sg 15x2 titanite and and a streak esc from tower! i also ordered a new topshaft because i think mine is cracked. i am having great difficulty removing the old topshaft though, the pin just wont come out, i am using needle nose pliers and even when i apply the kung fu grip it still slips off! can you guys help me with this? thanks and have a good day.

whoa drew you posted the same time as me. glad to hear your having fun!

Topshaft=the tranny shaft that goes through the slipper? If yes then get a finishing nail and a hammer, get on some concrete and drive it out. It's archaic but it works.

thanks orbitron, i was able to get it out last night. new problem! i replaced every gear in my tranny so i was prepared for the titanite and it doesnt want to move! the whole thing is realy tight, i opened it up to check to make sure everything was installed properly and it looks okay to me. i also gave my new diff gear new rings and balls, someone suggested that instead of the thrust bearing i just put normal sized diff balls in there with out the plastic piece, it still feels gritty! well anyway i thought that maybe the new gears just had to be broken in so i eventualy got it to turn and ran a pack throgh just the tranny, no dog bones to turn or wheels to spin. it seemed to have loosened up a bit so i put it all together and brought it outside for a test run. whenever i let off the gas it made a terrible scratching noise and it smelled kinda like burnt plastic. i checked the gears and they still look good! can any one help me please?
have a good day!

Maybe one of the gears is rubbing against the plastic. Try backing out the tranny screws a half of a turn or so. I don't know if it will work, but you may as well try it.

thanks for the suggestion jb, but thats not the problem. the case doesnt even want to close, i am still having trouble on the topshaft area. when i manage to get it closed i have to realy crank on the shaft ( that the slipper and spur attaches) to get it to move. the topshaft is binding hideously with the idler somehow.has any one else experienced this problem?
thanks alot for your help and patience.

Hi there.. Came across this thread in my travels. I'm a relatively new Evader BX Owner - new to the whole R/C scene, but learning rapidly (and having great fun into the bargain :D ).
I noticed there weren't too many websites catering for the Evader BX much, Racer9's site seemed about it, so decided to blog my adventures as I learn more, in the hope that someone else might find them useful.

Anyway.. you're welcome to check them out at: http://juga.org/evader/

It's still a basic blog atm, but I hope to expand that with more info as I get it.. stuff like which parts are interchangeable, what some of the hopups are like, etc - which are mentioned on forums, but didn't seem to be any site that collated the information that I could find.

If you have any information to add that you think would be useful for other Evader BX owners- feel free to PM me on here. :)

About a year ago several of us compiled a lot of info on the Evader ST. At one point I cut and pasted most of it. So hear you go.

EVADER ST Electric revised: Dec. 2002

The members of the Hobby Talk RC Vehicles Form have compiled the following information on the Evader ST for you. If you are new to the hobby or a first time Evader owner this information will help you set it up, maintain, repair, upgrade, and enjoy your truck. Please keep in mind that for the most part the information provided is not official information from Duratrax or Hobby Talk. Just information discovered and shared by fellow Evader owners.

General Information Section

Evader Set Up Recommendations
1. Use Duratrax White springs (soft) F/R.
2. Use 30wt shock oil F/R springs have different tensions.
3. Replace the foam inserts in the rear tires with firmer ones.
4. Put heat shrink on u-joints to cover the dog bone pins.
5. Properly adjust ball diff. and slipper clutch per the manual.

Possible Failures – have back ups
1. Ball ends (studs) will pull out from the rear transmission brace Rear Aluminum Transmission Brace, $27 @ TH.com
2. Ball ends will pull out (strip) from front bulkhead. Use long shank ball studs $3 @ TH.com
3. Steering servo arms breaks $3 @ TH.com
4. Front and rear stock wheels crack easily $6 pair @ TH.com

Up Grades for the Evader ST

1. Jep-R/C's Aluminum bulkhead brace set ($6.99) (very cheap insurance)
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

2. Hitec high-torque ball bearing ($29 HS-605BB) or metal geared ($39 HS-645MG) steering servos.
http://www.servocity.com

3. Cushioned front bumper (XX, XXT), part # 73712 ($4)

4. The XXT & XXXT Matt Francis edition bodies fit perfectly.

5. Use Pro-line wheels and Edge tires or Pro-line Gladiator tires and move the bottom of the front shocks out one hole to give more steering.

6. Losi XX/XXT servo brace (grind the long towers down a little)
(LOS A4110 $6)

7. Losi XX/XXT Aluminum upper servo brace by Trinity. ($30)

8. The Evader ST uses standard spur gears that fit the RC10T3

9. Here is a tip when rebuilding diffs: Take fine sandpaper (600 grit) and sand the face of the diff rings. This will allow the diff to break in faster and give it smoother action. The Associated #9365 B2 diff gear fits but must be used in conjunction with the Associated diff rings. Stock Evader diff rings are too short to grab the diff balls.

10. Clicking noise in the transmission, take apart and re-grease the diff gears and glue one end of the idler shaft.

11. Stock class is the best place to start racing, get a P2K2 Pro motor or a Green machine 3

12. Check the balance of the slipper and diff as follows. Remove the gear cover. Hold the right rear tire and spur gear so they cannot turn. Try rotating the left rear tire as though it were moving the truck forward. If the slipper is giving (rotating) and the diff is not slipping you are good to go. If the diff slips before the slipper loosen the slipper until you get the right balance. Tighten the diff only if necessary. Be careful not to over tighten the diff and strip the nut. The diff should be tight without making the diff action too tight.

13. Evader ST Gear Ratios:
Outer: 4.88:1 (Stock Spur gear and Pinion)
Internal: 2.66:1 (Transmission only)

14. If you are running a 13 turn (mod) motor you should be using a 17-tooth pinion. 13 + 4 = 17 (4 teeth over the wind)

General Information and Comments
· At many tracks the stock tires aren't going to work well. For instance at my home track, nothing seems to work except step pins. Compound is also important. Look and ask what other people are running. Tires are one of the most important things to adjust. It's hard to win without traction. I know it's galling to plunk down $50 for a full set of tires and rims but sometimes you just got to.
· I'd recommend the P2K2 over the GM3. The GM3 is really an on road motor and doesn't have the torque you want for off road. Some people make it work but they have to gear it way down. An outer gear ratio of 4.3 to 4.6 is okay - the lower number for "groove" tracks and the higher number for soft tracks where it has to paddle dirt.
· The diff helps you turn. Don't let the diff slip! It's a Bad Thing. The slipper serves two functions - it helps you use traction by keeping the tires from spinning, and it insulates the drive train from shocks. It should be set so that when you mash the throttle from a standing start, it slips for a foot or two.
· If you're sick of the mushy steering you get with a loose servo saver but don't want to strip the servo gears, you're going to need a better servo. Look for good torque and metal gears.
· If you crack the wheels replace them with Losi or Pro-Line. They won't crack, and the track shop will have them on hand.
· If your drive train isn't moving freely the VERY FIRST thing to check is all the bearings - especially the hub carriers and the out drives. Clicking noises are usually something in the gears. The internal transmission gears are pretty well protected. The external gears can be expected to wear out and make noise.
When bearings wear out, replace them with the Teflon-sealed kind. They last longer and are higher quality than stock.

Hank has this articial, a little more info on the BX.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=259&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0

Thought I would relay my recent Evader experiment. I have been running a SpeedGems 13T motor all summer, and it finally wore out the comm. I decided to try a 9T motor, and got to try it out at the Twin Cities Hobby Raceway indoor off-road track. This is an AWESOME place!

Anyhow, after two battery packs, I removed the 9T motor and listed it on eBay! The truck was VERY fast on the long straights, and was quick out of the turns, but the 3000 NiMh packs would only last 5 minutes or less. Plus, the motor was so warm, that I had to let it cool off for 15 minutes or more between runs.

So, I put a Monster Stock Pro motor in it's place, and I am really enjoying it. The power is so much more controlable, and the run-time is awesome. However, I think the P2K2 Pro is probably still my preference for the Evader. My son's truck has one, and seems to have more low end punch.

We are getting snow here today, so I am glad I found the indoor track. I might even try racing this winter. :eek:

Mr fixit, Maybe we'll see ya up there some time! We raced only once at the new building so far, those pipes are hard on equipment. The monster is the best motor, some good matched packs would also give you some more power. I have some coming this week, only $45. assembled for gp 3300's, $3.00 more for a deans plug installed. We're looking at going up Nov. 22 or the weekend after Thanksgiving. We're building a sprint car to run at Soutside in Rochester so we split our racing both ways. see ya at the track!
Rex

Hey I just revamped my website. Would you mind giving me some criticism? Check it out at http://www.orbitracing.tk

Hey 22,

I figured that if I mentioned TCHR you might come out of the woodwork!

If you were talking about all the PVC pipe, you are right, I ended up on my lid a few times. And I expect that I WILL be purchasing my next pack or two from you.

The week of Thanksgiving is a sacred one here in Wisconsin. Everyone wears blaze orange and seeks out the evasive 30-point buck! I wouldn't miss deer hunting for anything, even RC racing with friends. I will let you know if we get a Sunday visit put together later in the winter some time.
Does this mean that you have not put a roof over your track?

Best wishes for the white stuff, drive careful! :wave:

Hey I just revamped my website. Would you mind giving me some criticism? Check it out at http://www.orbitracing.tk

There is nothing to criticize, nice site, one of the best I've seen.

Well I guess I was fishing for compliments but that is over the top Bill. Thanks so much.

Well folks, I've finally had a chance to get some driving done and have a bit to report.

Firstly, I replaced the Team Associated Power 19 motor (a couple of years old?) that was in the Evader when I got it with an Atlas Progress 23T(Japanese stock class). The other changes were to a Venom 3000mAH NiMH pack and Deans plugs for battery to ESC connection.

Wow! Heaps more grunt than the old 19 turn had. Obviously, motor development has come a way in the last couple of years. Uphill on grass the Gladiator 2's are digging in under full power and lifting the nose. I'm running the 23 tooth pinion and getting good speed and accelleration. I doubt that the 25 would be a good move. I think it'd be too tall a gear ratio.

That's the good stuff out the way. The bad stuff is a couple of breakages. Front suspension arm and hub carrier on the left hand side. Kingpin was pretty badly bent too but salvageable. Not sure if they were from bouncing off a couple of small rocks while dirt bashing today, or my wife and I running into the pole under our letterbox last week. (I've been tweaking suspension setup so I think I'd have noticed.)

As luck would have it, I had a couple of spare hub carriers so that was no biggie. I also had one spare front suspension arm but, as is always the way, it was for the other side. Thus, out came the 5 minute epoxy resin and my Evader has a patched arm until such time sa I can get to the hobby store again.

I was stoked to finally get a chance to throw the beastie around on the dirt. I've been waiting to get a kind of good RC car since about 1986. Glad I made it at last.

Have fun folks, my weekend is coming to a close and tomorrow I have to return to patching a Messerschmidt Bf109G6. It's a hard life!

Drew

Anyone??? on a stock duratrax sprint esc, what is the motor limit? Thanks

Anyone??? on a stock duratrax sprint esc, what is the motor limit? Thanks

it says 20 turn, but many have run 17 turns for long peroids of time.
just keep an eye on the temp of the esc.

peter
:thumbsup:

I ran a 17t motor with my sprint for quite awhile and I have had no problems.

Gentlemen,

I would appreciate anyone's input on going brushless. I am looking at the Novak Super Sport system for my Evader ST. My tranny is beefy enough for it, so I am mainly interested in speed and power estimates, and durability. They say it is like a mild modified. What is that??? A 12T or a 17T?

Most of what I have read so far says that the system from Hacker is the best, but it is REALLY spendy. Let me know your thoughts...

Gentlemen,

I would appreciate anyone's input on going brushless. I am looking at the Novak Super Sport system for my Evader ST. My tranny is beefy enough for it, so I am mainly interested in speed and power estimates, and durability. They say it is like a mild modified. What is that??? A 12T or a 17T?

Most of what I have read so far says that the system from Hacker is the best, but it is REALLY spendy. Let me know your thoughts...

someone on the boards(can't remember who) had run the novak system, and loved it. had no major problems. the biggest thing with hacker besides the cost is their controllers are a little big. i want to rcca rated like 15t when they tested it. but you get longer run times. good luck.

peter

Many have said novak's BL system is equal to a 10t Krypton on the track. The Hacker is faster than the novak, but not as smooth. I'm waiting for the release of Novak's High powered system which is claimed to be out after the HV Maxx.

Gentlemen,

I would appreciate anyone's input on going brushless.

About the same time I got my EVST my co-worker got one as well. He went to a brushless set up with in a couple of weeks and I went to a 19T. He got the Lenox system (I think that the name or something like that I'll get the exact name and other info if you what it) brushless motor and ESC (controller) for $250, a year ago off e-bay.

I'm running a 15T and have spent time on improving the trucks suppension, tires, etc. and he is still running stock everything but tires.

When we race his Evader would win everytime if not of driving skill and car set up improvements. In other words, with no maintenance, truck modifications, or other hop ups it will be faster than a well tuned truck with a 15T. We both run 3300 batts.

It is a lot of power for the EVST and you will need to do some set up work just to keep the truck on the ground.

I was thinking next summer of trying a brushless. I think it would be cheaper in the long run. We go through a few motors a summer. They will let you run one in mod at TCHR.

I have a XXT, and am wondering if the evader rims will fit it?? also, what are some good all purpose tires??

I have a XXT, and am wondering if the evader rims will fit it?? also, what are some good all purpose tires??

yes they will fit but the losi rims are much stronger. i run losi spikes rear and the stock evader ribbed tires up front. :dude:

I have had many rims from duratrax break and become unusable. Do yourself a favor and get some losi rims.

Same here I agree

hey any one see the new rc car action. just got a good look at the st pro. i can live with out graphite, but that hard anodized rear plate thats adjustible looks pretty good. looks like my son will be getting an upgrade soon. it may add some wieght but all hte flex should be gone..

matt

hey guys, sorry for my absence but i switched to msn and it took a while to set every thing up. let me start with some good news....
Quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
by golden horizons, not duratrax.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

the only bad thing about that is the motor is made by os and not dtx. but with the pro versions coming out soon, maybe people will figure the evader will be hanging out for a long while. and will finally come out with some third-party products.

but you can only hope!

peter.....



i hoped and all of our are patience has been rewarded! golden horizons is going to release aluminum front suspension arms, front and rear hubs, and knuckle arms in either silver or blue! they are less expensive also, this is too cool!

hey everyone :wave:

wondering if anyone has been running the evaders? i had mine out once since we moved in october. it did okay. finally able to pick up new slipper bushings, and spring to get her runinng, runinng. has anyone found or done anything new too their trucks?

hope all are well peter :thumbsup:

i recently got mine running woth the SG 15 turn, its pretty fast. i fixed my tranny problem, i took out the shaft that passes through the idler gear and now it works fine!

yesterday i took it out on the ice covered streets and did some doughnuts, the road ragers offered no traction whatsoever but it was still tons of fun.

i let my brother try and he immediatly crashes into a snow bank! after about 2 hours of maintenance it is looking new.

oh ya, by the way duratrax is coming out with aluminum front and rear shock towers for the st and bx. they are pretty pricey though! not sure if it is worth 40 bucks. sorry for the long post, have a good day!

i recently got mine running woth the SG 15 turn, its pretty fast. i fixed my tranny problem, i took out the shaft that passes through the idler gear and now it works fine!

yesterday i took it out on the ice covered streets and did some doughnuts, the road ragers offered no traction whatsoever but it was still tons of fun.

i let my brother try and he immediatly crashes into a snow bank! after about 2 hours of maintenance it is looking new.

oh ya, by the way duratrax is coming out with aluminum front and rear shock towers for the st and bx. they are pretty pricey though! not sure if it is worth 40 bucks. sorry for the long post, have a good day!


sorry for the long post? :confused: this is what this place is for. was thinking of running mine again today but i can hear the rain hitting the sky light :(

peter :thumbsup:

Hi Guys,

The EVST is running strong and often. Fun truck.

Rain hitting the skylite has got to be a all to familiar sound to you Peter!

Hi Guys,

The EVST is running strong and often. Fun truck.

Rain hitting the skylite has got to be a all to familiar sound to you Peter!

well it had been dry for 24 hours, and was suposed to be that way for the rest of the day. i'll have too charge up my new kan 1050 pack for the micro. :wave:

Is rain what they call it when melted snow falls from the sky?

Is rain what they call it when melted snow falls from the sky?
i think so?! but we don't see much of the white stuff.

I am getting back into RC with my Evader BX electric after almost 16 years out of the hobby. I remember driving my Tamiya Hornet and Falcon around back in the day. I just won a race at the local track with the Evader and am really impressed with the way it handles out on the track compared to entry level vehicles that were around back when I was taking my Hornet to the track. Much to my disappointment almost nobody around my local track races buggy anymore and almost nobody races electric in general anymore. They threw me in with the only other vehicle closely matched and that was a Associated T2 stadium truck with a 15 turn hand wound modified motor. I was able to beat him in the final heat with my 16 turn speed gem. I figure that the buggy should be a bit lighter and possibly faster if the motors were more evenly matched and in the straightaways we were pretty much neck and neck. IMHO the stadium trucks handle nicer over the bumps which is where he killed me speed wise. Anyway I don't think the Evader is going to take me to the top at a big track but I am still amazed at how competitive it is out of the box and at my local small track.

Dgoner

dgoner :wave:
welcome!

and.... weeeeeeeeeee!
i got some realy cool looking purple anodized shocks for my evader, i will attempt to post pics later

Hi there!! Good Day Everybody

Hope you don't mind, check this out! the only Evader BX run in one of the famous track here in the philippines.

thanks for your time.

Hi there!! Good Day Everybody

Hope you don't mind, check this out! the only Evader BX run in one of the famous track here in the philippines.

thanks for your time.

nice action pics!

welcome to the forum, and good luck racing. :wave:

peter

Hello Everybody!

I'm racing my stock evader bx for a month now and I'm glad there are no breakage.

Good Day

From the lack of posts here, I am guessing the Evader Owners group must all be suffering from the winter blues.

Santa didn't bring anything RC, so I just ordered a new body, wheels, and tires for my truck and my sons. I am putting a Losi body mine, and he is getting a full-size Chevy blazer body for his. We can use the cold months to dress up our Evaders for the spring! I hope to post some pics when they are done.

He has had so much fun with the Masher tires on his truck, so I am putting Masher 2000's on my Evader. He likes his body lifted to look like a monster, so I might try adding an "upper deck" to his truck where we can strap the battery and ESC. (kinda like the Stampede) This might help his wheelies!

I still have not dug into my wallet for the brushless set-up, so if anyone else has any more exeriences to share from the brushless systems, please post something.

-Eric