by golden horizons, not duratrax.


the only bad thing about that is the motor is made by os and not dtx. but with the pro versions coming out soon, maybe people will figure the evader will be hanging out for a long while. and will finally come out with some third-party products.

but you can only hope!
:)
peter

DuraTrax was showing new "pro" versions of the BX and ST at the Chicago Hobby Show. They include graphite chassis, A arms, shock towers and front brace. Also included is the 12T forward/reverse ESC, a 15T Orion mod motor and a 10 car memory digital transmitter... all for $250.00 street price! Available Shortly

I have asked Duratrax to confirm this for me, as I have a great interest in the graphite chassis! No reply yet, but I will post when & if I hear back from them. I would appreciate any more info or pictures that Hank or someone else may have on this new version of the Evader ST.

The Evader Pro looks exactly the same as the regular Evaders so pictures won't tell you much. Also forgot that the hard anodized shock bodies are also inlcuded.

I have asked Duratrax to confirm this for me
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=140795&highlight=duratrax


peter
:)

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=140795&highlight=duratrax


peter
:)

Thanks Peter. Here are my feelings:

AWESOME!!!

Did they do anything to upgrade the transmission and diff.?

I didn't ask but since they didn't say they did I would guess they are the same.

That is interesting because I have felt that was the weakest link in their whole set up.

Hank,

On another subject. I've e-mailed you several times trying to become a Hobby Talk Supporter and have not gotten a responce. My problem is that I do not use any type of on line payment service and would like to send a personal check or cash via the mail but need an address. What would you suggest?

Thanks,
Bill

Hummm.... I should have gotten them unless they were sent before the 10th. Before the 10th I had some heavy filtering on because of the SoBig virus... I was getting 1000+ emails a day... the filters cut that back to a more normal 100. Try sending one again. I'll give you info on sending a money order or check... thanks for asking!!!!

Thanks Hank.

I'll use the link below your name.

That did not link the way I thought it would.

9-19-03
I found the email link so I've sent you a mail address request via that route.

Look forward to hearing from you.
Bill

Did they do anything to upgrade the transmission and diff.?

Actually, they do list a "heavy-duty" ball diff for this new model. I don't know what that means exactly, but it sounds good....


Quoting:

The popular Evader ST stadium truck and BX buggy have gone Pro. The cars shown here are basically full option models that you can buy. All of the performance accessories can be purchased separately so you can upgrade your Evader to Pro specs. Here’s are some of the Prod’s hot racing features.

>Stiff graphite chassis, suspension arms, shock towers, hub carriers, battery strap and chassis brace
>Intellispeed ESC with a 12-turn motor limit
>Team Orion 15-turn Havoc mod motor
>Hard-anodized, threaded body shocks
>Hard-anodized rear pivot plate
>Hard-anodized slipper clutch
>Heavy-duty yellow ball cups
>Duratrax 2PL full function AM computer radio with 10-model memory
>Heavy-duty ball diff
>1-year Stress-Tech guarantee
>Pro-Line racing tires

Thanks Mrfixit,

I missed it the first time. Glad they did something in that area. If it works in the original trans then we will have a way of beefing up our current trucks.

This is all I received back from Duratrax:

Dear Valued Customer:

Thank you for your Email.

We're sorry, but we don't have a delivery date as yet for the DuraTrax
Evader Pro and its parts.





Regarding the beefing up of the tranny, I have had the carbide balls and Associated B2 diff gear along with 22Racer's aluminum idler gear in my truck all summer and I have had no problems. I have been running a 13T speed gems that will make the truck do wheelies with a fresh battery and clean brushes. I think this set-up will be as good as anything they come up with for the PRO version.

Still, I love the Graphite idea, look forward to seeing the new trucks when they come out. :thumbsup:

I got ambitious today and fixed my e-maxx and both evaders

Turned comm on my evst runs good now

My evbx now I put on the street. Someone figure this out for me. I want to know top speed.

17 turn motor
8 cells
30 x 78 tooth gearing
rear tires are same hieght as stock

out of curiosity, under "creator" for this thread it says "progcraft". I dont really care, but how did that happen?

jb, it is kind of my fault. i was digging around in the old threads in genaral rc discussion and i came upon one titled duratrax discussion. i posted, effectivly bringing it back to life. hank noticed and meshed it with this discussion. sorry!

You can find the press release on the Evader ST/BX Pro at http://www.teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=259

It has all the details on what is inlcuded.... and the price!

jb, it is kind of my fault. i was digging around in the old threads in genaral rc discussion and i came upon one titled duratrax discussion. i posted, effectivly bringing it back to life. hank noticed and meshed it with this discussion. sorry!
no need to apologize :wave: I dont really care.
Well, I dont think my evader is gonna sell anytime soon, so I think I'll take a look at some of the new hop-ups. It'll be nice to get it running again. its been in a box all summer. I just dont have the time right now. I haven't even worked on my rc stuff in 2 weeks due to school (although I do occasionally come out to look at my stuff lol). Actually, the only work I've done at my workbench would be installing a cup holder on the wall. I've got 3 fans for when its hot, a space heater for my feet if they get cold, now all I need is a tv and a mini fridge.

Well it's getting cold again in Canada. I never broke a part all summer and I've put my truck to the test (read 6 ft jumps and high speed impacts) but the other day i was driving my truck and collided with a rusty and broke an arm. It was cold that day around 10 celcius. It seems the truck is very vulnerable at lower temperatures. I'm looking forward to the graphite upgrades.

hey maybe you guys can help me before i do something dumm....

my battry packs are mostly side by side but i have stick packs. i cut the foam in half to move the battery closer to the rear end for traction. works fine with the race packs but the stick packs wont fit hit the top brace on chassy. now shoul;d i grind down the bottom rear plate or the top of the chassy, and if i do this what will happen to the fit of my other packs?

later
matt

orbitron,

Your research assignment for today is the Glass Transition Temperature.

Mames - I noticed all of my stick packs had a little plastic end cap on them. This was the problem with getting it under the rear part of the battery tray. When I rebuilt my packs I removed this and now it slides under cleanly.

Mr. Man - My research assignment isn't even started yet but I'm guessing your going to say the molecules have a stronger bond at lower temperatures and they will be more rigid therefore making vulnerability more of an issue. Unless your saying graphite is more like glass then I'm really scared since there is no way to make the truck more durable at cold temps. I will check that out though.

Your research assignment for today is the Glass Transition Temperature.
http://www.psrc.usm.edu/macrog/tg.htm

Ahh research. How do you want the citations? MLA okay? :D
Do you happen to know the Tg of graphite? It is possible that different compounds have lower Tg's though. I had a head on with a Rusty and he laughed and drove away! It was the same temperature on his truck as it was on mine. Duratrax should recompose their polymer compound for us Canadians!

From what I've been able to learn, "composite" parts are composed of a polymer infiltrated with either glass or carbon fibers. Not sure what the polymer is, however.

Anyhow, the lesson is that cold parts break. A good example is when Losi released the XXX4 in the middle of winter, with parts made of a slightly wrong material. If they'd released it in summer, it's possible no one would have noticed right off, and people would have written it off to their own mistakes in cold weather.

Yeah I learned that lesson well this winter. It seems about 10C is about the tg point. Note how many times I said about in that last sentence?

hey guys, i am getting a speed gems 17x2 and a duratrax streak speed control. do you know if i change the batt. connectors on the streak to deans plugs will it void the warranty?
i want to beef up my tranny for the power of the 17 and i remember some talk about a b2 diff gear and a t3 slipper ( i think ). can you guys tell me all the parts i would need to do this and the benefits?
i hear that 22racer makes a steel idler or something, i would like to have one of those as well. i have tried sending him a e-mail but got no response. thanks and have a good day!

Jacob,

The Associated #9365 B2 diff gear fits but must be used in conjunction with the Associated diff rings. Stock Evader diff rings are too short to grab the diff balls. You do have to take a drill bit and very carefully enlarge the center hole in the diff gear in order to fit the Evader's bearing, but it is not too hard to do. I actually did it by hand, instead of using the electric drill.

I would strongly recommend buying some of the Duratrax Carbide diff balls for the upgrade as well. I even got rid of the tiny thrust bearings and the cheapo plastic bearing cage that is stock on the evader, and I use the full size diff balls for the thrust bearings as well. No cage needed. Just put them in there loose. The washer will keep them in the outdrive just fine.

The Dean's plugs will not void your warranty. This is the most common change in the industry, so they see it all the time when units get sent in for warranty claims.

Almost forgot:

The hard anodized slipper with the blue pads from Duratrax works just fine. I have had no problems for a year now. Except for an occasional new brass bushing and slipper spring being required.

GOOD LUCK!

For the aluminum idler Try 22welch@cannon.net I didn't recieve any mail from you.

For the aluminum idler Try 22welch@cannon.net

I've done just that. Intrested in getting a couple of them from you.

Thanks

Bill

hey 22, you have mail.
does any body know if the electric evader uses the same diff gear as the nitro evader? i was checking out the nitro st and they are making a hard anodized diff gear for it. maybe they will include this in the evader pro version, "heavy duty diff".

Howdy folks, please bear with a newbie. (the last time I had an RC car it was still the 80's!)

I've just got myself a second hand Evader but it needs some TLC.

The current wheels are Evader stock (chipped) and I'm planning on getting a set of Losi XXXT rims. Do I use stock Evader wheel bearings or will I need some arcane blend of spacers, bearings, drilling out etc to get it all to work. Currently, my baby is running Proline Strikers on front and rear and I'm happy enough with them.

I'm not planning on ever using a motor lower than 19 turns and more likely reverting to something closer to stock for my next motor. What size pinion should I use? I"m just intending a bit of banging around for the present, not racing.

I'm only up to page 60 on this thread (Can't believe it took so long to find you guys, I've been searching the net under Evader for months now!) and I realise that some of this has been covered already but my needs for banging aren't the same as someone who intends hard core racing.

Many thanks in advance.

drew

hi drew,

you can use the stock evader bearigns in the front wheels. if i remember right you have to cut down the spacer on the losi bearing-spacer combo. but you don't have to run the spacer. and the wheels them selves don't need any mods. but if you run the rpm losi wheels you may need to sand the inner edge of the rim.

http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html
he got some good pics with alot of the little mods.


on the pinion i picked up a cheap pack with like pionions between 16-21, and try them out. driving style, batteries and motor, surface will effect your choice.

nice to have you here! :)

and good luck.
peter
:thumbsup:

Hey that's me http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html
wierd to see my website quoted by someone else.

Hey that's me http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html
wierd to see my website quoted by someone else.
well when it's a good site you have to pass it along. your micro link didn't work yesterday.

peter

Yeah I know. I moved to a new city and had to change servers and such. I just fixed it this afternoon. Theres a new address now. Are you ready... http://myevader.tk http://mymicro.tk

Oh and thanks for the complement. I'm currently trying to overhaul it so maybe by New Years I'll have it super-prettyfied.

ronbeck - I've seen you somewhere else. **one18th**

ronbeck - I've seen you somewhere else. **one18th**
yeah, i hang their alot. most of the folks their are really nice. and their is always a question or something. where did you move too? i to am moving this week. like 2.5 miles :p but it is a different city. wont have internet acces for two weeks though.


keep up the good work

peter
:)

All the way to Edmonton. About 300 km north of Calgary

Ronbeck, many thanks for your swift response.

I'll head off and get myself a set of Losi wheels.

They don't appear to be anywhere near as deeply dished as the evader wheels, is this going to affect offset at all? (or are the pictures deceptive).

At 10 bucks (US) for a pack of 5 pinions compared to 3 bucks for a single pinion of a set size the bag option certainly seems the way to go.

Radio wise I'm considering the Futaba PHKAN set I think it is that has the single servo and the MC230CR speed controller in it.

my evader came with a Team Associated Power 19 motor and officially the MC230CR is limited to 20 turns but i expect if I'm being easy on it that it should be ok. I think they're overload/heat protected anyway. I assume a 20 turn limit is 20 turns of hard racing not 20 turns of casually pootling around on the beach with more off time than on the gas time. I mean the Evader stock esc is offically limited to 20 turns too but folks seem to have no probs with 17 turns by the looks and Futaba don't exactly have a rep for making dud ESC's (umm, not at Novak level or anything but not crud). if i can get this radio/esc combo at a good price and I'm not planning a hotter motor than a single strand 19 this shouldn't be a problem should it?

Anywho, thanks for the advice. I'll be keping a check on this place and staying in touch.

drew

Ronbeck, many thanks for your swift response.

I'll head off and get myself a set of Losi wheels.

They don't appear to be anywhere near as deeply dished as the evader wheels, is this going to affect offset at all? (or are the pictures deceptive).

At 10 bucks (US) for a pack of 5 pinions compared to 3 bucks for a single pinion of a set size the bag option certainly seems the way to go.

Radio wise I'm considering the Futaba PHKAN set I think it is that has the single servo and the MC230CR speed controller in it.

my evader came with a Team Associated Power 19 motor and officially the MC230CR is limited to 20 turns but i expect if I'm being easy on it that it should be ok. I think they're overload/heat protected anyway. I assume a 20 turn limit is 20 turns of hard racing not 20 turns of casually pootling around on the beach with more off time than on the gas time. I mean the Evader stock esc is offically limited to 20 turns too but folks seem to have no probs with 17 turns by the looks and Futaba don't exactly have a rep for making dud ESC's (umm, not at Novak level or anything but not crud). if i can get this radio/esc combo at a good price and I'm not planning a hotter motor than a single strand 19 this shouldn't be a problem should it?

Anywho, thanks for the advice. I'll be keping a check on this place and staying in touch.

drew
the mc230cr is a very durable esc. at one18th.com people run that esc with eight to ten cells. i think running a 19 with it will be okay. just make sure you do the hand heat check when you first run it.

if you can't hold your finger on your motor/esc/batteries for a 3(?) count things are too hot.

the losi whwwle i think are just the same offset as the dtx ones. the evader is a clone of the losi xx-t. just a few small changes.

good luck and glad to help.
peter
:thumbsup:

Thanks again Peter. It looks like the Futaba one servo/ESC/radio/receiver package is the way to go.

Drew

The MC230 ESC is a good one. I now have a spare Evader that I built just for when friends come over and want to give RC a try. I have that ESC hooked up to a Orion 17T motor and have had no issues. (Although I will probably install a P2K pro stock 27T motor when I find a good deal on a used one)

The Futaba package deal is a great way to go.

The XXT wheels from RPM fit very well, look cool, and only take minor shaving on the inside of the front wheels to clear the steering arms. (You will see this as soon as you install them) I put a long bolt through the center holes in the bearings and snuged it down with a nut. This bolt acts like an axle for the wheel that will not turn. Chuck up the long end of the bolt in your electric drill to spin the wheel while you hold an Exacto knife blade on the "edge" you want to shave down. Take off a little at a time, and don't run the drill full speed for safetys sake.

Good Luck!

As before, many thanks folks.

A usual, you buy a "bargain" second hand and end up spending as much as if you'd got a brand new one (although I'll have better wheels, radio etc so I guess I shouldn't complain).

Happy driving,

Drew

I thought I would let you guys know that I just received my Intellipeak Dual Charger from Tower yesterday. I hooked up two NiMh 3000 Sanyo stick packs to it, and it was done with both of them in 45 minutes! I was impressed because I have been doing all my charging with overnight slow chargers, so this is WAY better.

Has anyone else upgraded their chargers for the NiMh packs? If so, what kind of charge times are you experiencing? :cool:

sorry to change the subject on you guys but

i started racing last dec and got an evader st and some of the people i race with keep saying that i should get a losi or a assoiated becuase there better they say when there trucks break right and left and all i broke was 2 hud carriers so are losi's and assoiated better?

Mrfixit,

My six cell packs will take at least 30 but more likely 45 minutes to charge.

Andy,

The Evader is a good machine. It sounds like your proving that.

hey guys i just glued my first set of tires, a set of rpm wheels with pro line road ragers. i havent got a chance to try them yet because my photon seems to have bit the dust, i will be ordering a speed gem 15x2 with a streak esc shortly. what gearing would you recommend? i am also ordering a 6 pack of pinions. do xxx-t spur gears fit on evaders? i want to try a robinson spur gear, i have heard great things about them.
have a good day!

Jacob,

The Associated spur gears fit. Not sure about the XXXT. Search for LXEAK5 on the Tower Hobbies site. That is the one I have used.