was getting mine ready to play. and noticed a cracke in the chassis. still need to pick up a new slipper and diff spring. might pick up a rs4 mt in a micro trade though.


here is a question though cheapest place to order proline masher 2000 tires?


have fun
peter
:dude:
I finishe my PT Cruiser just a few hours ago. Here is the link. Here is a tease.

nice body!!

I'm in the process of buying my first elec. truck and I've been pulling my hair out trying to decide on the evader or the xxx-t. And after reading on some other message boards, people were bashing the evader claiming it wasn't durable and was a kids toy so I thought i was making a mistake in getting one. But after reading the posts on here and seeing the fun and commitment you guys have with your trucks, you've definetly changed my mind! Especially after reading about all the Losi parts that fit the Evader anyways..why pay 160+ more for it than the Evader? Anyways you guys have a huge amount of info that really helped me out and answered my questions and doubts...Now I can't wait to get mine and join in the fun!

I'm in the process of buying my first elec. truck and I've been pulling my hair out trying to decide on the evader or the xxx-t. And after reading on some other message boards, people were bashing the evader claiming it wasn't durable and was a kids toy so I thought i was making a mistake in getting one. But after reading the posts on here and seeing the fun and commitment you guys have with your trucks, you've definetly changed my mind! Especially after reading about all the Losi parts that fit the Evader anyways..why pay 160+ more for it than the Evader? Anyways you guys have a huge amount of info that really helped me out and answered my questions and doubts...Now I can't wait to get mine and join in the fun!

the only thing to keep in mind is a "stadium" truck what you want. was total into my truck, but out grew it for what i wanted to do. still enjoy my truck but remember "you get what you pay for". and check to see what parts are readly at your lhs. and the losi parts are for the "xx" not "xxx" truck.

but good luck and remeber run what you brung. :)

peter


p.s. the evader owners are way more melow then other's.
enloy.

Especially after reading about all the Losi parts that fit the Evader anyways..why pay 160+ more for it than the Evader?
This is a good question, and it has a good answer.

When you buy an XXXT or a T3, you *are* getting a higher-quality product. It is built to higher tolerances. It contains higher-quality hardware than an Evader - compare the bearings, or the shock bodies, or the transmission top shaft, or the ampunt of flash on the plastic parts. It is a more modern design, and will handle better, and the R&D to get there is included in the price. Comparing the RTR trucks, the Losi also has a better speed control and a much better radio.

The question is, do you need all that? When I race I want to win. If you're running around in your backyard, you don't care. And an Evader will even take you a long ways into the sportsman class at the track.

What pisses racers off is that the Evader is so blatantly ripped off from the XXT. Duratrax's R&D consisted of taking Losi's obsolete design and putting a caliper on it. This is hardly a unique situation - have a look at the new Mugen truck and compare it to a XXXNT. But to add insult to injury, Great Planes doens't distribute Losi products. There's no aknowledgment whatsoever. It starts looking a lot like theft.

I am not sure if it is true but i heard that the reason the evader is so close to the xxt is because duratrax bought the design from losi. Also, not all parts are the same, have you looked at the transmission or chassis? you also said that the shocks are cheap but yet they are aluminum threaded body shocks? Something doesnt sound right. If you dont own an evader dont comment on it!!!!!

In all honesty, I would love to get a losi truck..but I'm on a budget and can't afford it right now..Plus I'm new to the R/C scene..sorta..I had a Tamiya Grasshopper that was hopped up when I was like 10 years old. So I'm really trying to read everything I can about these 3 trucks (Evader, T-3 and XXX-t) The Losi has everything i want but the price is too high..the T-3 is more resonable but doesnt include bearings (btw I'm looking at the RTR kits only..I'm too busy and impatient to want to build my first truck) and the Evader sounds like its gonna spilt in two on me. I understand when you say you get what you pay for and thats real important to me. I dont have alot of money to be replacing parts after every run, and i'd also like a truck that can grow with my skills. So what is your guys advice?

In order to make your truck (read evader) more durable, there are about three things you need.
1. Driving skill. the only time I broke my truck was head on collisions with solid (and I mean solid) items.
2. Jep R/C combo Pack (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/home.html) A necessity for the weak front bulkhead.
3. Perhaps aluminum C-hubs. Curbs do damage to these.

I think my truck is tough. I only broke it in the winter and only when I hit a park bench and a curb. Don't follow the other sheep, be different own an Evader. :thumbsup:

If you wnat to find out more about my truck go to http://www.myevader.tk
Party on Wayne!

I am not sure if it is true but i heard that the reason the evader is so close to the xxt is because duratrax bought the design from losi. Also, not all parts are the same, have you looked at the transmission or chassis? you also said that the shocks are cheap but yet they are aluminum threaded body shocks? Something doesnt sound right. If you dont own an evader dont comment on it!!!!!

The shocks are threaded, yes. They are not hard anodized or teflon coated, both of which make the shock much more durable and consistent. The chassis and tranny are indeed different, to save Duratrax from making more metal parts, which are more expensive. Don't confuse features with quality - that's the Cadillac illusion.

As for the first point - no. Losi and Duratrax/Great Planes/Hobbico/Tower/whatever are not on speaking terms.

Silverbullet - despite what else I've said, the Evader really is a pretty good truck. The first run were fragile (opinions why saved for later rant). But because of their parts guarantee, they got to see what was breaking and how, and they've made a lot of updates to the truck. The result is fairly bulletproof. It's okay for the backyard and okay for the track. Bastard though it may be, it has a racing heritage, and isn't as tough as, say, a Rustler. If you're racing, you'll have to get used to breaking stuff regardless of brand. Either way, you'll want to make sure your store has parts.

I run a T3 and can vouch for its quality in racing trim, but I don't like all the downgrades they did to make the RTR price-competetive. I can see the dogbones and lower level shocks, but bushings? The radio seems kind of chintzy as well.

If you really want to get into racing, the best bet is the Losi. A track *will* have parts support, the truck has everything needed to win, and it comes with a pretty good speed control and radio to boot.

mames-I'm still around, not racing the Evader much. Nitro is much bigger down here, the nearest track with any electric is an hour away (one much closer closed due to a lousy neighbor) and I've been running my RC10GT. Good news is, new track opening next weekend is going to run off-road electric. Our club is working to get electric racers to our biweekly fundraisers, so the Evader or B3 might get off the shelf more.

The Evader is a good truck to start out and learn to race with. It is not a Losi XXXT. Much as I hate to say it, that truck is the the cream of electric stadium trucks, just like the RC10GT is in gas truck and the XXX was in 2wd buggy. AE has the B4 out now, which has been more than competitive with the XXX and is now coming out with the T4. You can bet Losi (sorry, Horizon) is working on updates to the XXX and XXXT. Point being, technology changes, and the Evader is based on a design that is about to be 2 generations old. You can race it, you can win some club races depending on the competition, but if you get good you're eventually going to reach the limits of the design. At that point you'll be looking for a Losi or AE, depending on how good the new truck is. The other Evader drawback is spare parts availability, like Dan said. Most tracks simply don't have a large supply (if any) of Evader parts. SOme XXT parts work, some don't, some need minor mods.

I agree with most of you, the Evader is just fine for playing around. If you are even thinking about racing, and have a track near you get the losi rtr. I've seen the losi rtr for $225. They are competitive out of the box (except for motor) They are a little more fragile than american made ones but not much. I believe Asc. might have a problem with the T4's, that frame is pretty narrow up front and I heard of the buggy's breaking.The trucks have longer arms and more weight. That's just my guess, maybe they're already working on it.

Hey guys...thanks for the insight and info..you all make vaild points and given me a little more to consider..I still have a week before I can order my truck so we'll see what happens. I went to my lhs' this weekend to check out parts and such ( I found out i have two shops 10 mins from each other..pretty cool) Neither one carried durtrax parts other than the standard bearings and such..so I may end up with a T3 and hop it up myself wich would be good experince for me to work on it.

WOW, it's been a while since we had this much traffic. kinda nice :p .
good luck with what ever truck you get, and have fun. peter

Silver,
Have you ever seen the asc. team built rtr? It's a much better truck, comes with a metal geared servo, better speed control, bearings, reedy mvp stock motor, better tires.I've seen it sell for $230. It was featured in a magazine a couple months ago.
The losi rtr is much better than the regular asc. rtr but close to this team built rtr.

22racer..Yes I have actually, Stormer Hobbies carries it and it's very tempting :p

Silver,
If you buy a really good truck don't woory about spending money just on hop up's. Theres good chargers battery's and motor's to spend money on. I respect you for not wanting a kit. A kid brought one over on a race day (we have a track in our backyard we have a few races a year), said he needed help with a few things. (he had this losi mf for almost a year)
Wow was there alot of stuff screwed up. I had to totally rebuild the tranny and shocks and tighten all the steering plus many other things. What i'm trying to say if a kid or his dad are not very mechanical the rtr's are a wonderful thing.

Page 2? Has it come to that?

Page 2? Has it come to that?


??did i miss something????
:confused:


peter
:)

Nice to see this threads still going. I've got to give my Evader credit it has held up fairly well under some bad abuse. Granted racing with a couple of "hackers" has'nt helped :( But for the intro price it's a good truck to learn setup tricks and basic driving skills. Everything I've learned will help when it comes time to setup my 1/8 nitro buggy least as far as suspension and others. My lhs does'nt carry any evader parts but I've had no problems having them ordered in. So get what you can afford and use the Evader to learn how to fix and drive if nothing else. :thumbsup:

Hi Guys,

Ya Peter, for the first time in over a year this thread slipped on to page two.

The fact that we are not posting questions about our Evaders as much is a good indication that the trucks are holding up.

I agree with Blue, they are a good truck for learning. It was my first RC and after about a years use it is still going strong and is alot of fun to drive.

Take care.

first time in over a year this thread slipped on to page two.

ohh. thanks for the info.



okay now a question for the masses. slipper problehms:again

no matter how tight i adjust the slipper nut the pads just slip'n'slip. have ordered a new spring for it. and have rerplaced the pad. but took it apart last night and the brass spacers show alittle ware. what do you think? replace the bushings also? thanks peter :thumbsup:

Are you running te new slipper assembly (new plate, new blue pad, etc.)? I like it a lot better than the original one. If you are and you're still having problems, may be time to replace the bushings.

im looking to get some new batts....i wan tto get 2 or so....what should i get...what is good for more power and run time....thankyou

im looking for batts too...these rocket packs are good?what size should i get..im primarily bashing and..i want to get a couple batts..im tired of charging alot....thanks

whats up with brakes......are they with better servos....confused..

Stay away from no name battery cells. I can't remember what they use in the rocket pack, I think there sanyo's. Stay away from the the 2400 that comes in a 2 pack. gp 3300's are the best right now. I'm a dealer for pro-match I have 3300 stick packs for $38. Try promatchracing.com if your new don't get individual cells, you have to know what your doing to solder them together.

ohh. thanks for the info.



okay now a question for the masses. slipper problehms:again

no matter how tight i adjust the slipper nut the pads just slip'n'slip. have ordered a new spring for it. and have rerplaced the pad. but took it apart last night and the brass spacers show alittle ware. what do you think? replace the bushings also? thanks peter :thumbsup:

Peter,

I have had the same issue twice. Yes it is probably the bushings. You can also try adding one more bushing between the slipper plate and the spring. I think the front wheel bearing spacers work. That is what I did on mine and it has worked fine.

Good Luck and happy 4th of July!

Loki - What? Do you mean brakes with a better ESC? The sprint does have brakes but I think they are poo. I've got an intellispeed reversible now and it has ABS brakes and they work well.

I've since put the Sprint ESC into my Micro RS4 and I get mad every time it glitches. I've noticed the sprint ESC glitches a lot when the batteries are running low. The first time you get $50 get a new ESC!

hello every one. it has been a little while since i posted in this thread and was wondering where jeps web site went? i want to order the combo pack but i cant find his site for the life of me. i was also wondering about 3300 cells. i would love to have a pack but i have heard they are slightly larger than 2400's and that people have problems stuffing them in there cars. does the evader have this problem? thanks and have fun out there! :dude:

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html

The 3300's fit fine in the EVST. Great batts.

hey guys, thank you for your quick replies but know i have a problem thats driving me crazy! i would greatly appreciate it if you helped me out with this problem. my little brother has a evader bx and i have a st. he hasnt driven his in a while (waiting for replacement parts) and when ha finally got them he slapped in a freshly cahrged pack and it only went like 2 mph. i reset the esc for him but it didnt help. i then went to clean his motor and i found one of the brushes is a lot shorter than the other and is chipped. after cleaning i tried it again and now it makes a high pitched whining noise when i give it more then %25 thottle. please help! :dude:

Just getting into RC trucks, fly electric planes currently. Considering the Evader ST and not sure what battery pack to buy. Should I buy the 3300 or just go with the 1500? I have a charger that will work for both. Is it worth the extra money for the 3300. Do they have the same punch as the 1500s? What do you recommend and how many? Want to run the Evader ST around the house in an area 75x200' on grass. Will the Evader ST handle the grass? How many of you run on grass and how well does it do? May race it later at a local hobby shop on pavement. Not sure if a monster truck would be better than Evader on grass even if it gets long. Thanks for the feed back.
Dave

Jacob,
I would get some new brushes and springs. Before you install them though make sure the brush guides are in proper alignment. Both brushes should wear evenly.

Dave,
I've run my Evader St on grass and it does not do as well as other trucks. Very low ground clearence which causes alot of drag. With the right tires it runs, just not as well as other trucks.

I like the electric stampede for playing on the grass. With a strip of electrical tape on the outside edge of the front tires it runs very well.

The 3300 batteries are much better than 1500. For longer run times and great punch they are the best.

once again, thanks for your quick reply but i have figured it out! when ever i clean my motor or my brothers motor i simply take out the brushes and spray duratrax motor spray into the brush hoods until the liquid coming out the bottom is clear. then i take sand paper and clen of the brushes surface with it, but i never put any machine oil in the bushings because i couldnt find any. thinking that it may be the problem i rooted around in the garage and found some stashed away. after the oil, it runs great! i will still get new brushes and springs for me and my brothers motor as you suggested. another question (sorry!), when you over tighten the diff, what part do you damage? is this part included in the diff rebuild kit? how can i tell if my diff is properly set? thank you for your patience. since every one is helping me i have to help others. dso, i would not run any electric in grass because it puts such a strain on the motor. the 3300's will have a lot better punch than 1500's and will have greater run time. bye

Glad it all worked out for you Jacob.

One suggestion though, instead of sanding your brush ends try using a com brush. You will protect the curved ends shape and take less brush material off.

Take care.

Sorry I forgot to reply to your diff question.

Yes, everything you need to replace the diff parts will come in the kit. The thing that brakes when it is over tighten is the washer just inside of the adjusting bolt head. The other problem, when the diff is to loose, is the balls melt the gear. Not a good thing. I belive it will need to be bought seperatly.

Just wanted to drop in a note here to express my thanks to 22Racer for the EXCELLENT quality of his aluminum idler gear that I now have in my Evader. If you want an awesome tranny, get one of these along with the modified Associated diff gear that he makes. This guy knows his stuff! :thumbsup:

I have had the same issue twice. Yes it is probably the bushings. You can also try adding one more bushing between the slipper plate and the spring. I think the front wheel bearing spacers work. That is what I did on mine and it has worked fine.

just saw your post friday. stopped getting e-mails whith new posts?! ohh well :thumbsup:

thanks for the reply, found out my problem. heh feel silly left out one of the brass bushings. and i think some of the slip come sfrom my shinny old lightened slipper(pretty blue). so i'm useing half of the stck one.

live and learn.
peter
:dude:

I have had an evader for about a year. I have been looking for some where to discuss my evader with others and just came across this site. i have been reading though this thread and have learned a lot already. especially about the differential. it apears i have the older model that does not have the extra webing on the chassis. i took apart my diff for the first time last week and found the thrust ball holder was broke. i got the rebuild kit today and replaced everything but the diff balls; it is much smoother now but still sounds a little rough. it was making an "uneven" sound and with the diff out and twisted by had it would turn easier on one side and harder on the other. replacing the diff rings stopped this. however it still sounds like there is a rock or something loose rolling around when i turn one wheel.

Things I have broke

Front bulkhead, pin brace, and bumper (hit a concrete pole first week i had it!)

right front supspension arm (after replacing above with aluminum homemade ones)

thrust ball holder ( probably overtightened the diff)

Upgrades

Trinity speed gem2 motor (not sure which one. has a white can)
have a 22 tooth pinion but havent put it on yet
Dirt works rear tires ( stock tires where worn to slicks in about a week :D )
aluminum parts mentioned above

Questions
What is the proper way to rebuild a shock? the instructions in the manual are a little lacking. i have done it several time but i dont think i am getting it right.

What type of shock oil do you use. i have read 30-35 weight. is this SAE 30 oil? will any kind/brand work or is it a special hobby oil?

How should the tranny be oiled/greased, where and how much?


Thats enough for now. hope it isnt to long :)
p.s. I would like to thank Hankster for getting my account setup so quickly. i couldnt post so i emailed him and within a few minutes i was ready.

What type of shock oil do you use. i have read 30-35 weight. is this SAE 30 oil? will any kind/brand work or is it a special hobby oil?
it's a silcone oil found at the hobby store. i use team associated shock oil.
How should the tranny be oiled/greased, where and how much
i use tamiya diff lube/associated stealth lube in my tranny. i just use anuff to lighly cover the gears inside the transmition.
it is much smoother now but still sounds a little rough. it was making an "uneven"
you should replace the ball bearings too. they get slight flat spots and don't work right.
What is the proper way to rebuild a shock
go slow and make shure you get all the air bubbles out, before you put it all together. and if your not using rc shock oil that could be your problehm. you are cleaning the shocks out with electric motor spray before you rebuild.


good luck have fun
peter
:wave:

My nearest LHS is about 2 hours away, so this and towerhobbies is about my only resource. would someone be kind enough to give me a "Lube Kit" I could get from towerhobbies, For everything I would need for any part of my car.

This is what i found:
Shock Oil: Shock oil (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3305&P=7)

Diff lube: Diff lube (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKC46&P=7) (would this work for inside the diff on diff and thrust balls as well as on the transmision gears?)Diff lube (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKC46&P=7)
Would these work? would i need anything else? Thanks

the shock oil you listed is what i use.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2882&P=V
this is the diff lub i use. but what you listed should work okay.


peter
:dude:
if you have anymore question just ask online most of the day :p

A little secret I learned was that you can buy pure silicone grease (lube) in a decent sized tube for a couple of bucks in any well equiped fishing gear department. I have been using it in my diff gears for some time now, and it works great. If you have heard the gears in a fishing reel that is trying to haul in "THE BIG ONE", then you know this lube is designed to handle the stress.

Rebuilding the Evader shocks is not real fun for me either, but take your time, and the performance of these stock shocks will surprise you and your competitors on the track!

-Good Luck!

Just to let you guys know, I've split up what I'm selling w/my evader. If any of you guys need tires, check out the swap and sell section

I found some 40wt associated shock oil. comparing it to the oil i had tried, which is a 46 weight synthetic, it looks and feels almost exactly the same. I am sure that this "hobby oil" is nothing special, its just a matter of figuring out what brand/type of oil they are "relabeling". Call me cheap but i hate paying for 1 oz when i know it can be had in quarts for nearly the same price :D

mrfixit, is this simular to what you are talking about?
reel grease (http://www.redrocksports.com/sports/webSession/store/dept-5/department/dept-5/item/52500/icn/20-741306/shopper/RR1038909142-12316/lookin/52500/zebco/za220.htm)

Reel Grease -

The stuff I have came in a small 1/2 oz squeeze tube and it is Abu Garcia Silicote REEL LUBE with PTFE. As long as it is silicone, it should work. The link you posted for the Zebco stuff does not say for sure what is in there.

Good Luck

found some 40wt associated shock oil. comparing it to the oil i had tried, which is a 46 weight

the biggest difference is that the AE silicone shock oil dosen't thickren/thin with temp changes.

hey i love the gonig on the cheap. let's me buy more toys.

that's why after i got my eveader bought a use rustler for $35 and have rebuilt some of it.


have fun
:dude:
peter

The stuff I have came in a small 1/2 oz squeeze tube and it is Abu Garcia Silicote REEL LUBE with PTFE. As long as it is silicone, it should work.
PTFE is poly(tetraflouroethylene), aka Teflon. Not a bad idea, really. I might try it.

You forgot the grease for thrust bearings and CVDs, which is just old-fashioned grease for some reason...

I have been using the same lube on the thrust bearings, and none on the drive axles with good results. Where do you put your grease on the CVDs (drive axles)? Up by the steel out-drives on the tranny, or on the little universal joint itself? I always figured that lube on these exposed joints would just attract more dirt and end up doing more damage than it was worth. If you greased the U-joints, I would suggest pulling some thin fuel tubing or a balloon over the joint to keep it clean.