I have found for racing that using the white springs front and rear and 25 weight oil in front and 30 in the rear works very well on a track that is fairly rough.

jep-
i put 30 wt. in front and 35 wt. in back and it seems to work fine for my "track."

Thanks Jep for the info.
Smojoe, do you plan on doing any racing with the evader (or have you already?) There is a track about 30 minutes from my house that I'm going to race at. Not taking into account driver skill, how do you think a 12-turn-mod evader would do?
How do you think I should gear my evader with a 12x2 p-94? I'm using the stock 88t spur. Do you think a 15t pinion would be overgearing it?
JB

i plan on racing, but i havent yet. like i said, the closest track is an hour away and its just to far to be a bad driver. a 15 tooth shouldent be pushing it, for i am using a 16 and it doesent get very hot and the comm/ brushes seem to be doing very well. a 12 turn should be fine (considering my little knowledge of everyting about racing) as long as is isnt all hair-pin turns.

Thanks for the response. As long as I can get about 6 minutes of runtime out of it, I think I'll gear it at 15t. How good is your runtime with your p-94 and the 16t pinion? When I was going to get a 16t pinion and a 15t, they didn't have the 16t.
JB

id say about 7 mins with a cheap 1500mAH 7 cell towerhobbies battery pack.

smojoe,

You don't have to be Brian Kinwald to race, trust me. But I would not recomend racing mod until you get your feet wet in Novice and Stock classes.

The motor that comes with the Evader is just fine for Novice. The trick is don't worry about speed just get around the track without wrecking ;)

A ROAR leagal (rebuildable) stock motor will be faster than the kit motor. You will need one once you move from Novice to Stock class.

You will never know how much fun you can have with your truck until you race. Please try it. :thumbsup:

i guess i could try. there supposed to be a track in manteca (where i buy all the stuff i dont want to get at tower), but i first need a new servo. when your doing laps around a planter and you see your wheels suddenly go straight, the curve back, you need a new servo. the only real reson i got the mod was for when i drove on-road. after the servo, i think a p2k2 is in order, bur first i gotta start racing. the problem is my parents are always working, i dont ever know the track scedual, and im just not that good. maybe i'll start later in the year when i dont have so many things to do around the house...

thx for the modivation,
smojoe


p.s. id much rather be Matt Fracis; but no offense to Brian, hes cool too.

7 minutes out of a 1500 mah pack with the 12x2? That's pretty good. That extra cell must make quite a difference.
JB
BTW, Smojoe, good luck if you go racing.

that extra cell keeps my car from being dog food for my friends dog.

How noticeable is the extra power of a 7 cell pack over a 6 cell pack?

i dont know, i havent ever used a 6 cell. the thing i dont get about racing is all these guys are buying $100 battery pack because of their "high voltage." why dont they just run 7 cells(or cant they? i dont really know)? its another 1.2 volts of power, which will make everything sorta go faster.

I never thought about that. What kind of pack are you using? I'm going to guess something along the line of a duratrax sanyo pack. I'm thinking of getting some for racing with a stock motor (I don't think they will let me use a 12x2 p-94 in the beginner class. Would be cool, though.)
JB

im running a tower hobbies "ultra sport" pack. following is the website for it. it runs well (for the sort of thing im doing). http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXJA84&P=0 it would be awsome if they let you race the 12turn, but i think they would catch on after you start lapping people again, and again, and again...

Hey everyone - just for fun, here are some pics of some of my evader customizations...
Jep
#1 My PC board top-brace stiffener

#2 my aluminum servo brace...

#3 repair of a chassis that broke clean in half along the back...

jep-
how exactly did you make the servo brace? iv broken mine a few times to many and that one looks like it would hold.

SmoJoe
I cut the main shape from .1" aluminum and used pressed in standoffs for the spacer pieces (we have a machne at work that does the pressing).

Jep

did you do the same for the battery strap holder or what?

thanks(me and my dad will make one of these once he gets home),
smojoe

Yes - same thing, a pressed in standoff spacer with a hole drilled through it for the clip.
Jep

Jep-
did you use some sort of epoxy or is it so tight that it wont come out on its own?

JB-
after random testing with a volt-o-meter, i believe that it puts out 4.8 vots to the servo.

Just use a losi xx servo brace it bolts right on with only one modification. All you have to do is grind the long towers down a little. I put one on about 3 months ago and it's still fine.

Originally posted by 22Racer
Just use a losi xx servo brace it bolts right on with only one modification.

where did you find it; at your LHS? i cant find it on tower because they stopped selling losi stuff

I got the losi part at a lhs.
Horizon is the Losi dist. check with them.
Bobs right you don't know what your missing. Racing is alot of fun. Definitely don't try mod until your good at stock. Try the mod sometime I bet you'll run more laps with a stock motor.(and break less parts)
I raced our evader today, not one broken part. And I'm not that good either. And the track can be hard on parts it has pvc pipe for borders it's not as forgiving as drain tile.My son bought a Losi Mf so I get to race the Evader now.

i found something but it was almost 30 bucks. is the UPPER SERVO BRACE,BL ALUM:XXX,XXXT by Trinity it? if it is, and its 30 bucks, i'll make my own.

Ok Jeff. How did you make that top brace. Would you make me three?
I have broken at least four already. Also three servo braces (although I have yet to brake one) and one more set of front pin braces. Oh and three of your bumper sets.

Let me know the damages and I will pay pal you.

I am up to three evaders now and still have never had more than one running at one time. But I am getting close.

Phil

22-
could you give me the part # if you still have the package? my LHS might have it, but i'll try jep's thing first.

Phil-
i know what you mean; it seems my evader is always broken too. just have to bulletproof everything so i can actually run 4 days in a row..

Philp37 -
The top brace is actually quite easy to make. We have blank obsolete printed circuit boards at work that I get for free - they are epoxy/fiberglass boards and are very strong (stiff) and light, yet easy to machine with a dremel. I trace the top-brace onto the board and cut it out, then glue the broken top-brace to the bottom of the board with JB Weld. The board makes it stiff and keeps it from breaking, the stock top-brace gives the right stand-offs and steering pivot locations. You use the same stock screws in the same holes, they just go through both pieces. The first one I made has never broken. The only thing to watch is you have to taper the edge near the bulkhead so it fits under the front shock tomorrow. I will gladly make you some if you send me your broken top-braces, or I can make you one out of new top-braces, passing on the cost.

I am heading out tommorow on a business trip. I will be back the 6th - email me and we can work out a price.

Jep

Originally posted by smojoe
22-could you give me the part # if you still have the package? my LHS might have it, but i'll try jep's thing first.

SmoeJoe -

I think the part 22 is referring to comes in the chassis brace set for the XX and XXT - look at this link, there is a picture:
http://www.ehobbies.com/1002-8489.html

It is part number LOS A4110

Trinity also used to make an aluminum one. Note the XXXT trinity aluminum part you mentioned, won't work (the XXT trinity part will). It is a bit different. You can view PDF files of the exploded views of all their trucks at the Team Losi site - it helps when looking for replacements.

Jep

jep-
so is the aluminum part still avalible from trinity or do i have to maybe get the wussy plastic one? oh, by the way, thanks!

Yes that's the one. it came with the top brace thats useless to us. but it is very strong.

22-
so u got the plastic one or the graphite one (or is there a third aluminum/ titanium/ whatever one)?

just the regular plastic one.

W:eek:W! you actually used the plastic one? if me and my dad mess up, its graphite 4 me. man it will be sweet if duratrax finally releases the graphite hop-ups for the evader. no more wimpy "strees-tech" stuff

Smojoe,
earlier you said you wanted to find a good, high capacity battery pack, right? I went down to my lhs today and picked up a trinity ultra metal nimh 3000 pack. It was well priced ($45 at my lhs, but it's $60 at tower hobbies; my lhs has really low prices on almost everything), and I haven't been able to run a full pack yet, but it seems nice.
What size pinion gear should I use for my evader? I just a got a trinity p2k2 pro, and I picked up a 24t pinion, but I don't want to overgear it, so I'm asking here first. Thanks!
JB

=I am thinking of getting a evader st and would like to hear comments on the trucks durability and speed. I would also like to know what parts are kinda weak so I can get them in aluminum or something

Just passing on a little info. I am currently tired of staying broke down all the time, so here it is, a work in progress. So far I got Jeff's front braces, losi's xxt front and rear graphite arms, and I matched up the gears in the tranny and associated thrust bearing kit. Bigger is better sometimes(works fine now). The a-arms have 1/8" holes so the chassis has to be bored with associated titanium pins. Gonna try the hubs from losi next, and still trying to get the MIP cvd's to work, there a little to long. If I only had a lathe. Also the xxt titanium shock pistons work with a little boreing of the shock guts. A lhs went out of buiseness everything 50% off. still waiting on my white springs. I also modified a aluminum servo arm to get the right offset, Shouldn't break again(toasted 3). I also added the xxt spindles for a better fit on the blue sealed bearings they took most of the slope out with the losi wheels. Hope some of this info helps or sparks more ideas.

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader

earlier you said you wanted to find a good, high capacity battery pack, right?
JB-
i've said i want a lot of things, but rite now, im concentrated on fixing the busted stuff. personally, im going to stay away from NIMH's because of the warning "if they get to hot, they might explode". i run my car while charging batteries (well, at least when nutins broken) and i dont want to come in and find a crater in my living room. if that happened, i'd be paying for more than a new battery and charger...

oh, and the pinions, i would try maybe a 22 tooth, and work up from there. i got this "robinsons racing assortment" which is nice because it has 16 t, 18t, etc. up to 26t. it cost me 12 buck on tower so your LHS will probly have it for 9.

Dano-
have you actually broke the A-Arms yet? once i get my truck off my pit stand, i'l be looking for some performance pieces insted of performance electronics, so thanks for the head up on wha works.

Jacob-
the durability of the truck is good untill you go to fast (with a faster motor, the stock on is pretty good) and run into stuff. its fast. my cat was amazed at how fast it was chasing after it; and so were my parents. there are aluminum parts, its just half of them are kinda useless (things that the stock plastic ones are just as good at). if you start running into stuff(whens this not going to happen?) and brakeing the front brace, get all of jeps stuff. then again, get jeps stuff before you get the evader; that way you have another reson to get it.

long post, but hey, its jammed pack of useless stuff,
smojoe

Smoejo, I haven't broke the a-arms yet. But I have tried pretty hard. Just upgradeing before they do fail.

dano-
have you perhaps found some shock towers that fit the evader?

JB-
ordered the hitec HS-645MG today. do you maybe know if the stock servo horn works or will have to buy an AE or TL one to fit?

Smoejo I haven't checked on the shock towers yet but, I don't think the losi will b a direct fit. Everything needs a little finessing. As far as the servo arm all I'm using is futaba aluminum with a homeaide offset. I do believe the next thing will probably be the digital hitec.

La. Dano,
Try using XXXT rear hubs, the bearing is out farther in those. Which MIP's did you buy?
Smoejoe,
Our Hitec servo is 24 spline, Futaba is 25. I used a Losi arm for a while now I'm using a Kimbrough servo saver, because the stock servo saver doesn't work very good after it gets dirty.
Also Graphite is not stronger, it's stiffer and lighter. It is better than Duratrax stuff(probably 2 times stronger). I'm talking about Losi stock is stronger than Losi graphite.

22-
did you have to raise the servo any to make it fit? i know when i used a traxxas servo saver arm i had to raise the arm about 1/8 of an inch in order for it to fit.

22 that was the next thing to do, start comparing the rearhubs or the gearbox maybe alittle wider. I try the xxxt hubs first though, by the way there xxt mips. Possibly a narrower bearing, milling down the edge against the hub bearing.

finished the servo "brace" yesterday. looks and works awsome. thx for the tips and idea, jep

keep on truckin,
smojoe

got the hitec HS-645MG today. fits in everything but the servo arm. so what servo arm did you guys say worked on the evader? also, have you guys ever felt the outdrives after a long day of running? talk about flamin outdrives, i burnt my finger on it! i dont know if this effects anything (if it does, its probly the diff ball holder/ gear) but i was just wondering if im the only one who has ever noticed this?

smojoe, did you buy the servo with the futaba plug or the or the other one?
JB

i got whichever one the JR plug is.

oops, I forgot you got a jr radio system. When you get an arm that works on it, tell me how it works. I was going to get one, but they only had the hitec/jr receiver plugs, and I didn't want to bother with switching the plugs.