Unit,
It is just servo tape. You get it in rolls at any hobby shop or sometimes I get double sided tape made by 3-M or Scotch at Wal-Mart in the hardware dept. Its like 3 bucks a roll. Same stuff.

does anyone know where to get the foam adhesive pads at? its the thing thats under the reciever.

i just dremeled ot the edge of the chassis a little to get the rx to fit snug and shoo good it. did this to mine and a friends. you can always mount it on it's side or move th rx to the top servo brace. i am going to move min there once i get a rx box. going to try to protect it from water. when you live in place that rains like 300 days a year you run in to water here and there!?>.. :jest: lol.

some have used multi layers of servo tape.


good luck
peter
:)

Well everyone, the Tower Hobbies / Hobby Services folks came through for me and I received my brand new Intellispeed 12T ESC yesterday. I soldered the Deans on it, and put my 13T Orion motor back in my Evader. WOW! I forgot how much faster it is than the stock ESC / 17T Orion motor that I had to run while the Intellispeed was in the shop. Anyhow, I also think that everyone should have an extra set or two of spare brushes on hand for whatever motor you are running, because I freshened mine up, and it really does improve the speed and power. If your motor just doesn't have what it used too, then clean it well, lube the bearings or bushings, and install new brushes. This will only cost a couple of dollars and is WELL worth it.

Oh, and welcome back Jep! :wave: Hope your re-model went well. I am selling my one Evader on eBay(Item # 3127749993 ), so now I only need one rear brace and a bumper from you! I'll probably place the order soon....

Mr Fixit
Have you raced? We have a track in our backyard we have races on. We plan on running memorial day, 4th of july, and labor day. We also run during the week, last year we ran most thursday's. I haven't come up with a schedule yet. We only charge $3. and pay back the winners. We usually get around 10 local guy's, but more this year. I'm probably less than 1.5 hours from Hudson. We're 15 miles south of Cannon falls.I used to race stock cars at Cedar Lake once in a while. I think they race in Menominee or eau claire someplace.
Rex Welch

here are pics of brushless evader :D
http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/IMG_4172.JPG http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/IMG_4069.JPG
:eek:

I don't think your pics are high-rez enough. Why not post some bigger ones?

That speed control is ducking enormous! Where am I going to find room for it on my XX4 chassis? :-D

lol :wave: i can post bigger ones hehe lol j/k !!!!

Last night I went to my friend's micro race. I brought my Evader along just to show it off. I let him drive it around some. All was well until he saw a "jump". Now, this was an empty parking lot. The jump he saw was just a curb that was chipped off and it was slightly slanted, therefore creating the jump effect.
First jump-all was well, just flipped it.
Second jump-Perfect Landing!
Third jump-BOOM! It wasn't even a jump. He missed it and smashed into the curb... :(
At this point we check it out. The bumper had been ripped out. The screws that hold in the front bulkhead...ripped out too (and missing). The whole shock tower busted in two. (Later we figured out that the where the servo connects to the turnbuckles had had been taken out of their holes. We got home, tried glue (on the shock tower), but it was a failure. Today I went to my LHS and they had the Losi shock tower, so I just put that one in, and screwed in the bumper and bulkhead. Although within less than 24 hours I'm up and running again, I could've been running it all last night too!

The moral of this story: Be careful what you let your friends do with your car.

I just bought a pair of regular Trinity stand-up brushes (not p-94). I
opened them up and found that one has an "E" inscripted on it. It is also a
different color than the other. What does this mean? Am I supposed to put
a specific one on the postive and negative or something?

THANKS
TIM

Tim - I feel your pain. I let my brother drive my truck and he caused $30 damage to it. The funny thing is it wasn't during the cartwheel session down the hill. It was when he hit a rock frozen in the ground. Solid objects suck!

22Racer

Thanks for the invite! I have never raced competitively, but it sounds like a fun way to start. I used to live close to Cedar Lake Speedway, so I probably had to listen to you go round-and-round on the summer weekend nights!

I have now ordered an aluminum servo arm from servo city. I just broke my plastic one again! Hopefully this will solve my problems. My brother has an Associated truck, and his servo and linkage is not covered up by and braces like the Evader has. That would sure be nice not having to remove that stuff everytime something happens with your steering mechanism! He and I were bashing around the yard on Easter, and my arm broke on a rough landing after about ten minutes. I want my fun to last longer than THAT!

Yay!! My evader's finally gonna get off the floor and out running again. I've been having idler gear problems,and I've been to my lhs 3 times over the period of several months and they haven't had the gear in. I finally just ordered some (9) off tower hobbies.
that brings me to my question: does anybody have advice on how to prevent idler gears from cracking?

JB,

You know, I have heard a lot of people talk about the Evader tranny problems like your idler gear, but I have never had any problems. Even with a mod motor and pretty bad driving skills. My diff was a pain for a while, but the Associated gear, rings, and carbide diff balls have solved that. Good luck with the new gears. Maybe you just had some bad ones to start with!

the odd thing is that I've had my evader for over a year, but the problems just started a few months ago. I've had a 12t p-94 in it for almost a year, and it was fine untill all of a sudden I started snapping idlers left and right. Very strange.

do u guys who always eat up idlers have a tight slipper or almost locked??? hmmm another reason might be the weather. a sudden change in temperature can cause gears to crack so maybe ur car is in the house when the heater is on then u take it to the cold then SNAP*? hmmmm hey u think its good idea to get some aluminum parts? ive heard when u crash they just bend and u can bend them back right? but wont this weaken the part and make it more prone to actually crack next time u crash? i ask because im thinking bout buying the aluminum hop ups on ebay.

I went to a local skate border park yesterday it was so fun. Me and my friend took the evaders and got some movies and pics. Check out this picture my friend got while I was on a quarter pipe. He was on top looking down with the camera while my car was vertical in the air. I also grinded my car for a few feet and actually landed safely after accidently jumping onto a grinding pole thingy(sorry no pic!).

hey u think its good idea to get some aluminum parts? ive heard when u crash they just bend and u can bend them back right? but wont this weaken the part and make it more prone to actually crack next time u crash? i ask because im thinking bout buying the aluminum hop ups on ebay.

I have the aluminum front hub carriers, and I just ordered the aluminum front bulkhead. My front shock tower and suspension arms are both Losi XXT Graphite parts. I have been very pleased with these parts. As far as the high buck custom aluminum stuff on eBay, you are correct that if they are bent and bent back again, after enough times, they will break. However, you will have to do some serious abuse to bend those parts. But, if you have not gone to the aluminum bulkhead and hub carriers at the same time, then expect to be replacing those A LOT more because the stress will ALL be directed towards those areas once you go aluminum on the towers and arms. Good Luck!

Jb for the price of those junk idler's from tower you could have just sent me $30 (includes reworke diff gear and shipping) and be done with your idler problems. I broke 4 stock ones in one month and my aluminum one has lasted a year already and still looks good.

Jb for the price of those junk idler's from tower you could have just sent me $30 (includes reworke diff gear and shipping)
I think AznJunkie is running this setup with a brushless. He's only had it for about a week and he is poppin' wheelies! Wheelies are sure to destroy the old idler.

can anyone make me a REAL carbon fiber chassi? i can pay you cash via paypal :) :D im thinking bout going to a carbonfiber website and have them custom build a carbon fiber chassi for me :D :jest: :eek:

A carbon fiber chassis for a evader? Just buy a better truck. I made a titanium chassis for a traxxas rustler for oval.

Just bought a new body for my truck. It's a WRC Corolla 190mm the wheelbase is a little short, but the body needs no trimming to fit. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

can anyone make me a REAL carbon fiber chassi? i can pay you cash via paypal :) :D im thinking bout going to a carbonfiber website and have them custom build a carbon fiber chassi for me :D :jest: :eek:

I dont know if they're still in business, but a place called Penguin RC has been mentioned in several rc car action articles in the last year. From what I understand, if you send them a CAD design of the chassis you want, they'll make one out of carbon fiber for you.

The carbon fiber chassis sounds cool, but I have been impressed so far just with the "new" Evader chassis. The small changes Duratrax made to it have really been a huge improvement over the earlier versions.

My problem has been withe the rear chassis plate. Does anything else fit? XXT parts? Anyone want to CNC an aluminum one for me?

Oh, and 22 Racer:
Do you live on Mingoview? If so, I might call you about the modified idler gear and those summer races in the backyard!

Let me know.... :wave:

I dont know if they're still in business, but a place called Penguin RC has been mentioned in several rc car action articles in the last year. From what I understand, if you send them a CAD design of the chassis you want, they'll make one out of carbon fiber for you.
The website is http://www.penguinrc.com, and it looks like they do good work. The link for CNC services is busted. I'm guessing it's a call-for-quote operation. Judging by their other stuff it'll be in the $60-100 range.

Interesting... may be a help with my TC3 hybrid buggy project!

mr fixit, yes I live on mingoview dr. I do not stock the idler's so call me or e-mail me if you want one some time. I don't make enough of them to keep alot of them. I have like $15. in parts to make an idler and modify a diff gear, so it would be expensive to keep many on hand. I did make an aluminum rear chassis plate for my evader, it is sweet and only weighs slightly more. There not easy to make, I'm not sure what I'd have to charge for one. Probably be cheaper just to buy my truck from me, I'd sell it for $100. with a stock motor. I borrowed the speed control to somebody, so I don't have that.

hey just though i let you guys know that i put the xxt graphite shock tower on my evader right before i decided to put it up for sale :\ well here is a pic. http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/IMG_4473.JPG
i put it for sale because my bro bought me a xxxt for my b-day :)
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?postid=455088 :D
here is my evader :)

I just got done my second body. There was absolutely no cutting involved. See it here! (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc.html) I know it isn't that great of a paint job but it doesn't look like that other guy's Evader.

I think AznJunkie is running this setup with a brushless. He's only had it for about a week and he is poppin' wheelies! Wheelies are sure to destroy the old idler.


Sorry haven’t been reading HobbyTalk for a while. :)

Yeah you’re right. With my Novak SS I’m busting wheelies like nothing. Granted I have to go into reverse then forward. I need 7 cells to do it on command. I’m doing mad jumping with almost locked slipper. So far no problems. :thumbsup:

My thanks goes to 22Racer. :thumbsup: Without the metal idler and mod diff, I would be like JB_The_Evader and buying 9 idlers and maybe more. The metal idler and mod diff is great! No more tranny problems! :D

Here are pix of my Evader with the Novak SS. The last pic shows the metal ider and mod diff: http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1970459&uid=1046955&members=1

Can you help me decide? White spoiler (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc/articulaterearwing.JPG) or not? (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/wrc/articulaterear.JPG)
I think I'm going with the spoiler but I need some more input.

Looking good.

Yes vote on the spoiler. :thumbsup:

my vote is with white spoiler

Ehhh I like the blue one, it doesnt look so out of place.

ED :freak:

I like the white my wife likes the blue, but hey it's my car not hers right! :thumbsup: Thanks for the input. Any more?

You know which way my vote would be lol I do like the blue better it does'nt quite look like an afterthought By the way another tire you might like for running in dirt would be Pro-Lines Smasher's My brother in law's been running them on his nitro Rustler and loves them

White.... Definately white...

Help me out guys.......I need a new diff. I toasted the stock one. Can anyone recommend a high performance replacement that requires NO modifications and is a direct bolt in?

If you need just a diff, ask 22Racer to make a mod b3 diff for you.

He can make a metal idler and mod diff for $30. IMO, it will be the best investment you can make for the evader. :)

Ooops sorry I goofed. The Smashers are made by Losi not Proline

Mavrick, I'm assuming you need to just rebuild the diff? Use tc3 diff rings, any 3/32 carbide diff balls, Losi thrust bearings (the ones under the bolt head) I used the asc. diff spring but you have to drill it out just a bit.

Remember my great Orion Rush 13T motor? Well my first one gave me a season of great service before it died. My second and third have both had quality issues that have forced me to return them to Tower and I am now waiting for my Trinity Speed Gems Pro Kobal 13T motor. I hope for the extra few bucks ($30 vs $16) I will get a better built and (Maybe?) faster motor for my Evader. I do have to say that Tower has been exceptionally good at handling any product issues that I have had. I will let you know what I think of it after it shows up...

I did get Jep's rear pin brace and the new bumper installed, and once again, his stuff is Top Notch!

What do you guys think about an aluminum skid plate that would run the entire length of the truck? From where the front bumper ends to the back of the rear chassis plate? Jep, would it help the truck? I have broke a couple of rear chassis plates from big jumps. :cool:

just wondering what i can do to make my evader faster,,,,,inexpensive ways and expensive ways

can someone explain this internal antenna scheme to me please..sounds good....i ordered a new body and would like to try it before i drill ne hole for antenna....plus i have a sick idea for the paint job on my new willys cap..thankyou

can someone explain this internal antenna scheme to me please..sounds good....i ordered a new body and would like to try it before i drill ne hole for antenna....plus i have a sick idea for the paint job on my new willys cap..thankyou

there no trick to it. you pic a plastic of your choice and mount it close to your rx and wrap your antenna wire around it. i went to a lhs and bought a piece of flat lexan cut to size were i wanted to mount it. drilled hole along both long egdes and zig zaged the antenna up the lexan. good luck post pics if you do it.

peter :)

just wondering what i can do to make my evader faster,,,,,inexpensive ways and expensive ways

Inexpensive: Go out and buy a mild modified motor. My suggestion is the reedy 19t spec motor. My friend has one in his t3 and it surprised me with its speed. I cheaper way is gear up. You might be able to safely go up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion gear. Just don't gear up too high and you should be fine. Oh, and as for the 19t motor, it may void your speed controll warantee. I'm not sure if it will, but it may. I e-mailed duratrax over a year ago when I first got my evader, and they said it would handle down to 16 turns. I bought a 17t speedgems 2 a week after I bought my evader and it worked fine.
Another way you could increase speed would be to go to a 7 cell battery pack. I'm not sure if the stock esc can handle that, but somebody here should be able to.
expensive: New speed control and motor. Its as simple as that. I have an lrp ipc pro sport esc and a 12t p-94 and it flies!

To improve your speed follow JB's advice. I just wanted to add two points. Check your brushes, that may be the reason your motor is not meeting your needs and the cheapest very to improve the speed. Check your comm, if it is out of shape it is time to go motor shopping.

I found the Speed Gem Pro 17 T to be a great motor for the EVST and the stock ESC handled it fine.

That is all, down scope, dive dive dive

To improve your speed follow JB's advice. I just wanted to add two points. Check your brushes, that may be the reason your motor is not meeting your needs and the cheapest very to improve the speed. Check your comm, if it is out of shape it is time to go motor shopping.

I found the Speed Gem Pro 17 T to be a great motor for the EVST and the stock ESC handled it fine.

That is all, down scope, dive dive dive

Periscope off the port bow! Depth charges stand ready!

(Where you been Bill? And where are all the Evader kids these days?)

Speed Gems

I did finally get my new Speed Gems 13Turn motor, and I have to tell you that it is definately a better motor than the $16.00 Orion Rush 13T that I was running. The speed may be a slight improvement, but the power is MUCH better. It will float the front wheels up off the ground when you are going WFO over a bump. The one thing I immediately noticed was that this motor is WAY more quiet than the Orion Rush. Might just be a sign of more precision and better balance in the design.

Overall, I would say the extra money is worth it!

:D

A few weeks ago my servo gears went out on me. I bought a new stock Hobbico servo. I'm just going to loosen up the servo saver, because the way it came on the car, mine was WAY too tight. I hope this fixes the problem so I don't have to spend 50 bucks on a high torque.

Hi Dan,

You got me. Abandon ship.

It has been awhile. I've been around, just not on this thread as much. Doing the E-maxx thing. My son got one last week so I've been in pit crew school.

How you been? I don't see you spreading sunshine around the threads as much anymore. :lol:

Where is that rescue ship? This waters cold :eek: