Orbitron-
I guess I could have just tried jumping in reverse like you did. Then the nose dive wouldn't be a problem! (Humor) :D

Yeah that was my wife's idea. When I first saw the pic I nearly peed! I'm glad someone else got a laugh out of it.

My problem now is when I try to adjust the slipper, it seems the nut always loosens up a little, maybe due to my 15 turn engine? I think I'll try a drop of threadlock and see if that helps, unless there is another better way.

Try putting a washer on each side of the spring. The other option is to use a new nut, the locking material wears out over time.

I just found a link page for Evaders here (http://home.insightbb.com/%7Ejoyful/banners.htm) have fun!!

thanks bill, the washers seem to be helping.

thanks bill, the washers seem to be helping.

No problem, glad it helps. When my spring started to weaken that got me another two weeks of run time. The bad news is eventually I did need to replace my whole slipper. If your thinking of replacing your spring you might want to take a look at the slipper and make sure you don't need those parts as well.

Welcome to the Evader ST Slipper World :freak:

Stock, New, combination of either, blue pads, white pads, etc......????

It's almost as bad as battery voo doo. :rolleyes:


Orb. Great link. Thank you

Peter. Thanks for the info. I can use it. :cool:

I was reading through the posts and didn't come across a solution to my problem. I rebuilt my differential the other day and since then I can't keep it tight. I drive it about 50 feet and I can here it slipping and sure enough it is loose again. I tighten it really tight and still it loosens up.
Any suggestions out there. I'm finally done working nights and was looking forward to do some racing but I have no acceleration due to the slipping diff.

have you checked the lock nut in the left side out drive? the threads on the nuts might be worn out. keep us updated.

peter :)

Yeah Krapolla check the nut, could be that the spring needs to be replaced as well. Since you just rebuilt, be sure that the nut is on the left side and the bolt head is on the right. Check your slipper adjustment as well, if it's too loose it can loosen your diff up.

Has anyone tried a Losi front suspension arm on the Evader? Mine broke and my LHS doesn't carry Duratrax parts, but they do have Losi stuff. I noticed that the XXT one looked a lot like it but I didn't have the part with me so I couldn't tell. Let me know.

THANKS
TIM

Timborini - the Evader Racers only page has a description of the things you need to do in order to get that suspension arm to fit. You have to drill out the hinge pin shafts (holes) on the bulkhead and the outerr hinge pin on the arm, unless you use the XX-T hub carriers as well. Good luck.

[QUOTE='orbitron']Timborini - the Evader Racers only page...QUOTE]

Can you give me a link to that? :p

haha sorry about that quote screw up!

I don't have motor bearings oil to put on. Are there any substitutes that will work? (something I might have in the garage here...)

Also, I have the Speed Gems 14t w/ adjustable timing. What should I set the timing on do you think? And at that, what exactly does that do?

THANKS
TIM

any light oil like 3 in 1 oil should be okay. just remeber to clean the bearings when you clean your comm. some oils get sticky(wd-40) after normal us.

it could be here (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=28696)
or maybe here (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=36539)
these are just links to the first page on the threads. I only have dial up so your going to have to look yourself. Sorry.

I tore my diff apart again last night and found that the washer in the thrust bearing assembly was shattered. I bought a new bearing set up and will see how that works. Apparently I over tightened the diff.

Use Asc. diff rings, carbide diff balls, asc. diff. spring, losi thrust bearing kit. My diff. has never felt better, almost like a losi or asc.

Hey guys. I got the 16t Double Trinity Caliber last week and took it out for a test. Here's my review. You can tell by looking at this motor that it is manufactured with the budget consumer in mind. In other words, it's not the crown jewel of motors asthetically. It comes with the trinity no-solder motor leads which is very convenient, but the very thin guage of the wire caused me to chuck them in the trash right away. After I installed it and soldered some new 14g wire and connectors on (YES! I successfully soldered!!), I ran it in the dirt with the standard 20 tooth pinion. I got a significant performance increase from the stock Photon. At times, I couldn't keep my new Proline Gladiators from spinning like oiled slicks. The motor was on the warm side after a few runs, but the ESC remained at a reasonable temp.

Then I put on the Road Rage II tires and had it out on the asphalt oval. I upped my pinion to a 22 tooth and got great speed and runtime out of the new 16T Double Trinity Caliber. After 3 batteries, the motor and ESC were cool because of the low resistance provided by the hard track surface, so I went for the BIG 26 tooth pinion. O.M.Golly, that thing was fast. I need to clock it, but my estimation is that i was pulling close to 35mph or better. Ran 2 more batteries with the 26 and temperature was reasonable, probably because of the high air-flow at that high speed. Run time was also very good.

At the end of the day, I took the brushes out of the motor and inspected the comm and gave it all a good cleaning. Everything was in good shape and the comm was clean. At first impression, this appears to be a very tough, quick, reliable and durable budget motor (about $20 usd at Tower) and I'm happy with it. However, I would not recommend the large pinion but on a smooth surface or street. An 18t or 20t pinion works well with this motor on all surfaces.

Conclusion: If you're looking for a performance boost but don't want to drop $40 or so on a mod motor, check out the Caliber. I'd recommend it for durable bashing, ease of use, and improved performance.

-Eric

Right now i am running a 15x2 speed gem pro in my evader with stock gearing. WOO! its fast compared to the photon. After a few batteries it seems to be holding up quite well(both the motor and the novak 610-HRV esc). I would recommend this motor if you are looking for a modified motor around $30(decided to share my experience like eric!)

While on the topic of motors:
Many people talked about the stock tranny blowing with less than a 15t motor. Apparently that problem was fixed (I bought mine in October 2002) because my Evader is fine with a 13t Racer's Edge motor. It works great with my 14t Trinity Speed Gems as well! I run the Duratrax Intellispeed 12+ turn ESC and it hasn't gotten too hot yet (I've probably run the thing 10 times). Anyways, I would recommend both of these motors if you're looking for a cheap one (they were each $30) because they don't get hot, and man will they make the Evader fly!

Right now I'm waiting on the front suspension arm to come in. :( Apparently basketball goal posts aren't good for it!

Also, while soldering my capacitors onto my motor, I accidently soldered the screw that holds the motor together in. :rolleyes: That makes it hard to clean the comm and now I can't adjust the timing. Any tips on getting the solder off so that I can break the screw loose would be much appreciated. While on that subject, what would be a good timing for my setup (on the 14t Speed Gems)?

THANKS
TIM

Tim,
I agree with you that they fixed the tranny problems of the past. I got my Evader just last month and everything seems to be up-and-up. And I really bash the living daylights out of it sometimes. I also love the slipper design, in contrast to the Traxxas style slipper that I used to have, with the small cylindrical slipper pads. This metal slipper with the single, large o-ring style pad is well designed and works great. Everything in the rear is smooth and quiet, and my Diff hasn't given me any trouble after the initial break-in adjustment recommended in the Duratrax manual and video.

I'm so happy with this truck, now that I've got a couple new sets of tires and a new motor. The only thing I struggled with a bit (and it may have just been my unit, not necessarily a flaw) was tweaking the front steering linkage and components, especially the servo-saver. After several attempts and tweaks, I've finally got it dialed in perfectly.

Oh, and I'm hanging with my buddie's Nitro Sport on the street!

C-Ya Later, Gonna run my EVADER!

-Eric

I too have had the small thrust bearing washer shatter on my Evader a couple times now. I will have to try the losi kit to see if it is stronger...
I already did the carbide diff balls and Assoc. diff gear / rings, so the thrust bearings are all that's left.

The gearing on the mod motors is all about experimenting. My 13T Orion Rush motor has been run with 17 tooth pinions up to 23 tooth pinions. I prefer the 18 or 20 tooth gears, depending on the surface.

I had the Intellispeed 12turn ESC from Duratrax. It just stopped working, and it is just past the 120 day warranty. I have returned it to them with a nice letter, so I will have to wait and see what they decide to do...

Duratrax has been very good so far on their customer service, so I am hopeful that this continues on this issue as well. Spring is finally here in Wisconsin, so I am looking forward to running the truck outdoors!

:eek: I'm STILL waiting for my blasted Tower Order!!!!!

Jeez! I'ts been like two weeks already!!! I'm two steps from completely blacklisting them as an RC parts source! Problem is nobody around here carries Duratrax.... :mad: GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've ordered from them more times than I can count for my Nitro trucks and never a problem... parts here in three sometimes four days... if it's not here by this weekend this will be the third weekend the Evader sat on the shelf... They say "Sir, your expected delivery date is between the 8th and the 10th" but, it's always like two weeks and bam the stuff arrives in three days... I don't mean to be impatient but, my son is getting hooked on Nitro because he has nothing to run so we have been taking turns with my RC10GT and I'm just not into spending another 300beans when I just got him this evader a month and a half ago... :(

Would I see a difference in performance if I bought the Hard Anodized Lightened Slipper Plate Set (DTXC9315). Also if I got it do I need to buy the blue slipper pads for it(tower # LXDHJ9)? Or can I use my old white ones. :confused:

Jeez! I'ts been like two weeks already!!! I'm two steps from completely blacklisting them as an RC parts source! Problem is nobody around here carries Duratrax.... GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what parts do you need??? maybe their are losi parts you can use??



Would I see a difference in performance if I bought the Hard Anodized Lightened Slipper Plate Set (DTXC9315). Also if I got it do I need to buy the blue slipper pads for it(tower # LXDHJ9)? Or can I use my old white ones.

you should be able to tell. but per duratrax tech support if you use the newer pads with a older slipper clutch it will be slowly eaten. so if you want to run the blueish pads you need the new slipper plates.

good luck
peter
:)

Sounds like I've stripped the gears on the steering servo. I was running on a very rough track when noise started. Any recommendations for servo replacement?

Sounds like I've stripped the gears on the steering servo. I was running on a very rough track when noise started. Any recommendations for servo replacement?
Hi Tech 625/645 that is the servo of choice it seems. If you look back a few pages you will see discussion on the issue. Also there is this thread (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=47832)

(I posted this in the evader racing thread but it was suggested that I try here too)

I am thinking about racing my evader(my friend is going to buy one too) I live near Manistee, MI and the closet offroad track to me is Gaylord(2 hours away) I called the one in Traverse City(1 hour away) but they said they were closing the track and only did oval, and some other thing but with no jumps and on carpet. My questions are:

Is there any other tracks within a couple hours of me?

and, is the stock evader legal to race with the photon? I have a p2k and novak 610-hrv esc in mine(everything else is stock), but my friend is in question since he only has a photon right now(well, once he gets it). We will probably order a new engine for him in time, but from what I have heard the green machine is better then the p2k2, right? Do the pro versions require more maintence since they use different brushes? If that the case we will just order the non-pro for him. thanks in advance!

Speed Gems pro 17 double Amber break in..... It says to hook it up to a three cell pack or a 3.5 volt power supply for 1 min check and run again if need be....I don't have either one...can I just solder the leads and run it part throttle till the brushes wear in?

I ran mine at 1/4 or 1/3 throttle to break in my 15 turn speed gem pro(I did about about 5min worth of break-in to be safe). I have put about 5 batteries through it since and it seems to be working fine.

Incipit - Oh, don't worry about it. Breaking in brushes buys you about 10 seconds of more power than the other guy the very first time the motor is run after a comm cut. Important only to racers and sometimes not even them.

bojingles - The photon counts as a modified motor. People won't care as long as your friend is in novice but when he moves up to sportsman he'll need to have a real stock motor.

Thanks guys!

i had to let you guys know .
i finally put my losi arms on my sons evader. WOW what a difference, i know from what he hit today this thing would have be broken.lets see he hit his bmx bike , several hits to my t3 which broke a shock mount on the last hit and did sevaral cart wheels. i just have to do the rears now. also if any one is going to do this . use a #39 letter drill bit for the outter hindge pins in the front. gives about .002 clearance. does not bind at all.
has anyone tried to bolt up t3 rear tires on theres? i checked them last night fit seems to be good, off-set is very close.

later
matt

has anyone tried to bolt up t3 rear tires on theres? i checked them last night fit seems to be good, off-set is very close.The T3 has less offset in the rear rims than the XXT. Thus, they'll fit fine. The car will get a little wider, if you care.

What is the best kind of servo arm for my Hitec 625MG servo? The stock evader ones don't fit the Hitec splines correctly. I have looked at servocity.com , and they have lots of arms and traditional servo savers, but I don't know which ones will give my the proper offset for the evader's linkage. Also, can I use the traditional servo saver style arm in conjuction with the servo saver that is already on the Evader? Or does it need to be a solid arm? Can anyone help?

I just use the standard arm that comes with servos. It works fine. It’s not curve like the evader, but it will work without any problems. I broke the original arm from the evader and replace it with the standard arm and have yet to break that.

I got the Novak SS Brushless System for my Evader. It’s great. Great acceleration and good top end speed. I ran a 21t and a 20t pinion. 20t ran a bit cooler compare to the 21t. 21t had a slight better top end speed. I got about 14 mins with some no name 3000mah packs. The SS is very smooth, had very good braking power, and nice reverse power. I don’t race so I can’t tell you what brushed motor it’s comparable too. I ran D4 11t in my evader before and the SS seems to be just as fast. :thumbsup:

Here are pix of my set up. I was in a hurry so the wires are all over the place.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1960276&uid=1046955&members=1


AznJunkie

I just use the standard arm that comes with servos. It works fine. It’s not curve like the evader, but it will work without any problems. I broke the original arm from the evader and replace it with the standard arm and have yet to break that.

It looks like you would have a clearance problem and you would not allow the servo to move fully left and right. Am I missing something in my assumtion? That is the same set-up that I am using right now except I heated up the plastic arm and put the "bend" in it to give me the offset like the stock evader arm.

If you look at my first pic. You can see there’s no clearance problem. The arm looks like it will cause some binding on one side, but it doesn’t. I can fully turn left or right without it binding. The arm doesn’t have to be curve. It can be straight. I prefer it straight cause it won’t hit any of the servo saver mounts.

The arm I’m using has a total of 4 holes. The one I use is the 4 plus looking arm from futaba. I cut off the other 3 arms.

Would I be able to run either of these motors on the stock evader esc(my friend is getting one)? I think it has 20-turn limit, but I was wondering if anyone had any success with motors a turn or two below the limit.

-Chameleon 2 19-turn motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ3&P=7

-speed gem 2 19-turn motor
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJX19&P=7

is that chameleon much slower then the speed gem, or are they about the same? If so, I would probably go with the chameleon since is ROAR legal.

Mr Bo...

I've been running a Speed Gem Pro 17t for several months with the stock ESC and have not had any problems at all. Except when I decided to play around with the motor timing :lol: .

Never used the Chameleon. Been so happy with the SG never looked for another brand. I first used the SG 19t for awhile, but the 17 is sweet in the EVST.

thanks bill. Right now I am running a 15t speed gem pro w/a novak esc. I just put a 18t pinion on recently(from 20t) and it takes off so much quicker now while still retaining most of its top end. Anyway I'll let my friend know and we will probably order him a speed gem pro 17t since it has been used with the stock esc and seems to work fine for you.

for any other peoples out there that have brushless in there evader then im wondering what gear ratios do you use? and do i tighten the slipper a little? or not? i dont think ill have to loosen it? or anything do i? :eek: hmm i think ill just keep my evader hehe and pimp it out lol :D

from my "personal" experiance with brushless motors, gearing pretty much depends on if its sensorless or sensored. for a sensorless BL, gear low because if there is to much stress on the motor during its gain in rpm, it will begin clogging (sp?), or act sort of jumpy. on sensored Bls, you may want to gear higher (sorta optional) because clogging will not happen as noticably because the controller is keeping an eye on the powerband of the motor. also, you want to gear low because it seems most Bl motors have more RPM then torque, but still have enough power to turn the rears into pizza cutters.
as for the slipper, i would keep it almost locked (back it off maybe 1/4 of a turn) because like i said, it had a lot of RPM, and with a low gear ratio, it will have loads of torque too. that translates into tons of power going to the wheels, and if you have a loose slipper, your just going to be wearing away the pads untill you make a metal on matal contact inside the slipper (not good). however, you do want a little slip because if your doing some jumping and have the slipper all the way locked, the little evader tranny might explode on you.
keep the evader and pimp it out. from what iv seen, the EVST is the best truck for just bashing and racin around.

Smojoe, what you said and...

What seems to take out the trans on my friends EVST BL set up is the instant reverse action. A couple of those rolling direction changes and he eats gear teeth everytime. :(

Or those reverse to forward actions. Like I said in my previous post, I just got a Novak SS. If anyone is getting it or BL for that matter I highly recommend you get 22Racer to make you a metal idler gear and mod b3 diff gear. I have that and it’s great. It’s much strong compare to the stock idler and diff gears.

If you’re running the Novak SS, gear it like a stock motor. I tried 20t, 21t and 22t pinions so far. 22t - insane power and speed, but the esc and motor gets really hot. 20t is a bit milder but it doesn’t heat up like the 22t.

As for slipper I have it almost tighten. I did back it off about 1/4 of a turn like smojoe suggested.

where can i get gears at?!?! :D as u probably figured out im pimpin it out :) hehe :eek:

Email 22Racer at 22welch@cannon.net. He made it for me. Be warned it's not cheap (to me it's not). It coset me 30 bucks for the idler and diff gears.

Hi everybody,

It is good to be back and to see some of the old familiar names. Things are starting to thaw out here in South Dakota so I thought I better see whats going on. I just got 100 sets of Combo-Packs from the machine shop and I'm ready to ship (thanks to all those who were waiting for parts). I'm tweaking up the trucks for our HobbyTown parking lot season starting May 4th. Any new tips or gripes about the Evaders? What is the latest on transmissions? Are the new hardened slippers doing the trick? Other new tips?

Best Regards,
Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

does anyone know where to get the foam adhesive pads at? its the thing thats under the reciever. one other thing... where did u get that aluminum servo brace aznjunkie?