Ooops, in case someone decides to nail me on this, I should have said:

" ... and servo torque is *proportional* with voltage."

5V is darned close to 4.8V, so I'd just use those numbers. But in case you want to crunch numbers, the 625 is rated at:

76 oz-in and 94 oz-in @4.8V and 6.0V, respectively. So if BEC output is 5.0V, then a good guess for torque at 5V is = (5/6 * 94) = 78.3 oz-in.

To check how linear the torque curve is between 4.8V and 6.0V, we can use the same calculation to estimate torque at 4.8V = (4.8/6 * 94) = 75.2 oz-in. That's pretty close to the published 76 oz-in, so the servo is fairly linear in that voltage range (as you'd expect).

Bottom line: 76 oz-in should be fine for an Evader and the bonus is the 625 is faster than the Futaba S0003 :thumbsup:

Holy smokes you all are starting to lose me big time :jest: Had another ? that's not related to the servo. Was looking thru the Buyers Guide last night and noticed someone made a metal diff gear for the Losi xxx. Can't remember who it was off-hand I'll have too look again and see but it was only priced at $20 so has anyone tried it or heard of anyone trying it?

Hay servo hunters. A good site and source for servos is Servocity.com

The shipping is free.

Was looking thru the Buyers Guide last night and noticed someone made a metal diff gear for the Losi xxx. Can't remember who it was off-hand I'll have too look again and see but it was only priced at $20 so has anyone tried it or heard of anyone trying it?
I Looked and saw it was on page 207 Robinson Racing makes it and the part number is RRP9500 but I don't know jack about it.

A losi diff gear won't work on a evader if that's what your saying.

Alright! Got my "package o' goodies" yesterday. Having church last night, I couldn't finish off the soldering and installing of new stuff, but tonight I finally got it done just in time to at least run one battery. I haven't seen it's "full throttle" yet, due to the fact that I'm waiting for the brushes to shape to the comm, but I'm already hauling just half throttling! :p What kind of got me frustrated was the dang new antenna tube I bought. I took me 45 minutes to get that thing through there! :mad: Anways, I'm still pretty stoaked about it all because after all these months I'm finally running.

By the way, in case you were wondering what was in this "package o' goodies":

Duratrax Intellispeed 12+ turn w/ reverse
Trinity Speed Gems 14t
Astro Flight Discharger
86t spur
16/17t pinion (although tonight I ran a 22 and it didn't overheat yet. I hope that keeps up.)
Differential gear and Idler gear (in case they break as many have said may happen...)
p-94 brushes
12" antenna tube (nylon... that stock one sucks. It broke on the first day... haha)
Titanium turnbuckle set w/ wrench

I also ordered a 13t Racer's Edge motor off eBay, and it came in today. (I ran the 14t tonight though.)

Run a little soap on the antenna next time and it'll slide right thru. Also if your going to be switching gears and worried about the heat the heat sink motor mount has worked great for me. I know there only in anodized blue or purple but I've ran as high as a 24 tooth pinion with the stock spur and it has'nt heated up badly yet. A buddy ran the same gear in his Rustler and the motor was so hot you could'nt touch it.

Hi all. I must say this board has convinced me to get the Evader. I've been an RC enthusiast for over 15 years, my latest vehicle (before the Evader) was a Nitro Ruslter. I blew the engine and promptly EBay'd it for parts. Then last week, I picked up an EVADER based on some of the comments from this board. All I can say is WOW.

This is NOT your father's Evader. This blows away any Traxxas product out there. (I also have a TRXX Blast boat and used to have a 'Pede). I'm thinking that Duratrax has addressed many of the problems that you guys have mentioned over the past couple years because my EVADER is solid. The plastic seems firm and tough, gears are silky smooth. Overall, i love it. The motor is plenty quick too. I hooked up a new Pirahana 7 cell and this thing SCREAMS. Very fast on 7 Cells. Runtime was very impressive too. I got about 9.5 minutes on my 7 Cell on hard pack dirt. Engine and ESC temp was fine as well

After a week of bashing, close to 15 packs, the motor is strong and no breakage of any parts. (Although, I have yet to slam full speed into an immovable object). I've flipped and rolled it several times and it has an uncanny ability to right it self most of the time. STILL NO BREAKAGE. When some of you guys talk about breakage, I'm wondering if anything can survive devistating crashes into parked cars, mailboxes, curbs, and telephone poles

Anyway, i love my Evader ST electric truck. I'll check back in to this board often. Thanks for the great tips and advice that I'm always finding on this great board.

!! DRIVE ON !!

Eric,

Welcome, congrats, and thanks for the kind words. This is a great form, the guys here make the difference, and the EVST is a great RC. Hope you enjoy it for many years.

Bill

PS when you start using mod motors :eek:

Thanks for the kind welcome, Bill.

Awhile back, there was someone who posted that their Evader's steering would pull right after a right turn and pull left after a left turn. I think it was suggested that his servo was bad. My Evader had this same problem out of the box. What I did was snug down my Servo Saver a bit but not too much (clockwise to tighten about 3/4 turn). It was turned all the way up (at it's loosest setting) and therefore making contact with the upper servo brace. The friction and rubbing caused my Evader's steering to be sluggish and sticky. Now it snaps into and out of the turns with ease, and tracks a very straight line. I hope this helps for the person who was having this problem. And for others, it's something you might want to check.

Anyone have any experience with the Trinity Caliber motors. Specifically they have a 16t Double for about $20 on Tower, including the motor leads. Looks like a great bargain.

"CYA L8R - Gonna run my EVADER!"

-Eric

----
Anyone have any experience with the Trinity Caliber motors. Specifically they have a 16t Double for about $20 on Tower, including the motor leads. Looks like a great bargain.

"CYA L8R - Gonna run my EVADER!"

-Eric

Eric,

I have not tried the Trinity motors, but I have an Orion Rush 13T double in my Evader with an 18 tooth pinion. These motors usually are in the sale flyers for $16.99 and have bearings, adj. timing, and can be dissassembled for cleaning. The Rush motors come in other turns as well.

My Evader can keep up with some of the nitro cars when I practice at the track. I have run a larger pinion before on the pavement, and then the truck REALLY flies!

Welcome and Good Luck!

MrFixIt,
Great deal on that Orion Rush at Tower. I saw the 17t, 15t, 13t and others online for $16.99. Does it come with motor leads? (I'm not real good at soldering) Do you think the stock ESC would handle a 15t ok? If not, i would think the 17t should be fine.

-Eric

Eric,

Yes, they come with the easy slip-on motor leads, however, the larger diameter wire that you can solder directly onto the motor will give much better performance from even a 17T motor. Your stock ESC should be fine down to a 17T, which is what I ran before upgrading. The 15T motor would be pushing it.

My suggestion is to get a decent soldering iron and practice with it. You will enjoy this hobby much more if you can modify, tinker, and upgrade the little beasts! I have switched all my connectors to Deans plugs, which are much more efficient connections. I also have made an inexpensive set of LED headlights for my truck that simply plug into the extra slot on my receiver. Remember-the soldering iron is your friend...

Remember-the soldering iron is your friend...

HA! I love it. The soldering iron is my friend... My friends don't usually burn me and make me want to throw things into a brick wall (well, maybe sometimes). I will take your advice and practice with it. Do you know of any good 'How to' pages for soldering. Do I use flux? what diameter solder works best? What type of core? I have so many questions!! AHHHHH!

I used to love using the Trinity Gold Plated, No Solder clip on motor leads, but it seems like nobody sells them anymore. I used to clip those babys on, then add a nice glob of solder on top to maximize current flow and strength. That method always seemed to work great for me. Now I can't find them anywhere.

Another question about the Dean's, wouldnt my stock connectors begin to get hot (or even warm) if they were a source of significant resistance? My Evader runs cool, everything from the ESC to the motor to the outdrive yokes, to the connectors. Just seems to be such an efficient truck. Are the Deans really worth it for a basher like me? If you could quantify the performance improvement I'd get as far as a percentage using the Dean's, would would it be?

Another question about the Dean's, wouldnt my stock connectors begin to get hot (or even warm) if they were a source of significant resistance? My Evader runs cool, everything from the ESC to the motor to the outdrive yokes, to the connectors. Just seems to be such an efficient truck. Are the Deans really worth it for a basher like me? If you could quantify the performance improvement I'd get as far as a percentage using the Dean's, would would it be?

If you start running mod motors, you're going to notice *everything* getting hot. With the stock setup it's not a problem - the Evader's kit motor is very efficient and not very powerful.

Fast Eric,

I'm just a basher too. We have a small track/play area in our backyard that keeps my 5 yr old son and me busy with our trucks. I have attached a picture of his Monster Evader. Enjoy.

The solder I use is real small diameter stuff from Radio Shack, and no, I don't use flux. I think the most important thing is the soldering iron or gun. Don't get the smallest, cheapest one at the store. Go one step bigger in the wattage, and you will be MUCH happier and you will do a much better job on those solder joints. (no more globs!)

I'll give it another try.

Where'd you get the nice big front bumper for the Monster Evader?

That bumper is my own design. I used to have nerf bars that stuck out to protect the rear wheels as well. With a 5 yr old behind the wheel, these are essential pieces of equipment. Along with the braces that Jep R/C sells, the suspension arms are pretty well protected now.

Hello all Can someone tell me the diffrence between a stand up brush and a laydown brush? I got an old p2k that needs new brushes but I have no idea which is which. Welcome to the forum fast eric you'll love it here. I've learned more here then I could anywhere else. And you'll love the Deans connectors for the fact that they stay together and come apart much better then the stock bullet connectors on the truck now. Very nice for motor cleaning and work on the rear end :thumbsup:

got my diff rebuilt today after smokin it a week ago,,got a 12t double with a streak esc,changed the pinion to a 16 tooth and this thing smokes now,,diff holding up,only problem is when im on hard road wide open and let off the gas the evader will spin a 360 before coming to a stop,,is this tires or shock springs??thanks in advance,,also on the batteries,,charging,hooked up to a volt meter,where should the volts be on a charged battery,,i killed a battery last night over charging

Well, in the burning desire for more power I opted to replace the Photon speed with a Trinity Speed Gem Pro Amber 17T Double Motor... I'm also converting the whole system over to Deans plugs and gold bullet motor connectors... I had the Novak brushless system in my checkout shopping cart, finger hovering over the mouse button to confirm... a bead of sweat rolling down my forehead... debating on wheather or not I should do it.... then I thought about some goodies I wanted to get for my RC10GT and opted for the cheaper way out and got the Trinity... I also got the 81tooth spur gear... I figured the 23/78 combo I'm running now might heat things up a bit too much...

Has anyone ever used these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBBD3&P=7 ? They were running fine in my stock Evader. When I got the new hop-up stuff, I put new connectors on them and they don't work now... :confused: When I plug up the ol' voltage meter to them, they display 7.40 volts so they're obviously charging. When I plug it up to the car though, it may run for a few seconds, then just shuts off all power and the motor makes a clicking sound. My Duratrax Shark 1500 is working fine though. If anyone has any suggestions of what could be wrong, let me know.

Friday after work, I took the Evader to the local dirt track in Jacksonville FL (unfortunately, i don't think they hold scheduled competitive races there, only Bashers like ME!) Anyway, into my 2nd week with this little machine and I'm loving it more every day. Still running totally stock with Pirahana 7 cell batterys, and I'm screaming. Can't wait to get my Orion Rush or Trinity Caliber (Haven't decided yet) and still haven't confronted my soldering woe's yet. Maybe when I order my mods, I'll do it. From what EVERYBODY says, Deans is the way to go. I'd still like someone to quantify (approximately) the gains I should expect by dumping the stock connectors. This means I'll have to modify both of my chargers with the Deans also, right?

DARN! Too much soldering for this wuss. Anyway, I'm so impressed with this truck. I jumped it, flipped it, rolled it, spun it (still haven't crashed head-on into concrete yet) and it is tough as nails. Duratrax should be sending me my advertisement check for these comments!! But seriously, compared to the several Traxxas products and a few older Tamayas that I used to have, this truck is in another league, and what a great price. I'm about 20 or so packs into it, so today I pulled the motor off and inspected the comm, springs and brushes. Clean and dandy thus far, but I will soon place my order for the MOD whenever I get some more advice or feedback. I guess I'll never get accused of short posts, sorry for the long-windedness. Now that it is dark, I'm going to sit back, have a beer, and oogle over my EVADER!

Oh, one more thing. It's time for some new tires. I used to use the Proline Gladiators which I loved. Anyone have any experience with these? Since they are taller, should I re-gear from the stock setup? Any other tire / rim suggestions for running mostly on hard-pack dirt?

Thanks guys, you are truly making this hobby more enjoyable by offering your advice, stories, and setups. What a bunch of great guys!

-Eric

Evening Guys:

Fast Eric - Thanks for the servo saver info. As soon as I'm done with this post I'm off to the bench to check mine out. I've not been happy with the steering action and you may have solved my problem. Thanks.

With a 40 amp or higher soldering iron and a wide tip, soldering will be much easier. Deans solder is very good. No on the flux, for me anyway. And my last advise is to have and use a soldering iron stand or holder, it will make your soldering life much easier.

Incipit - Great motor. I can keep up with my buddies Evader brushless with it. I should say he's not a very good driver as of yet so someday I won't, but for now the SG 17t holds it's own.

Ya all - For us with big fingers the Powerpole connectors work great.

timboroni - I've had three of thoes batts and all of them ended up with a bad cell after a few runs. Hope your problem is a bad connection or something else. Good luck.

Anyway, sorry to be the "Mad Poster" but here are a few questions I'd love some advice on... (Keep in mind, I'm not a millionare, so every decision is made with the wallet in mind).

1. Budget Mod Motors: Trinity Caliber or Orion Rush?
2. Deans: Are they all they're cracked up to be?
3. Tires: Proline Gladiator or something else?
4. Taller tires than the stock Duratrax setup: Is re-gearing necessary?

Like I said, I've been bashing on and off for 15 years, but never had a vehicle which drove me so much to learn, tinker, modify, drive, stare at, and just plain love, more so than the EVADER. Always just ran pretty much stock until I beat something into the ground, then sold it to the neighborhood kid (or Ebay) for like $10 bucks. Things are different now with this truck.

Thanks again,
-Eric

Jep I believe you were using the CR 2400 cells. I was just wondering what you thought of them now that you have been using them for a while. I'm looking to order some new cells and those are a bit cheaper than the rc2400 cells.

Ya all - For us with big fingers the Powerpole connectors work great.


I'd have to agree there. Before I even had a car to call my own, my friend let me borrow his Stampede. He had the Powerpoles on it and nothing ever got hot. This lead me to slap some of those on my car's stuff, and they work great for me. Plus, they're easy to solder! I've never used Deans though, so I'm not necessarily bashing on them. I just thought I'd give you another option for your "budget" (fast_eric) because the Powerpoles are a little cheaper.

Tim- Doesn't sound like a battery problem because you're getting good voltage. If you soldered new connectors check your connections, sounds like one's shorting and making intermittent contact.

FE- Dean's are great. Less resistance = more runtime and higher speeds. They are a PITA to solder because they're hard to hold. Don't know about the Powerpoles but I've heard they're similar in performance. Tires- 1) For real hardpack I like Proline Square Fuzzies or Square T's. 2) For moist soils I like round step pins. 3) For hardpack with loose dirt on top I like Bowties. You may have to change a pinion if you run a taller tire, but they're only about $4. See how the truck's running first.

Had some good times today! (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/mar29bash.html)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Reverseair.JPG

Wow, Orbitron! Catching some air!

Thanks, guys, for the soldering and connector advice. I'm going to try out the Powerpoles. Acording to Tower, they allow even less resistance than the Dean's. I'll let you know how they work.

I did some bashing myself today. Still no breakage. I've velcro'd my batteries to the chassis today because I continuously struggle with that pin / pinhole / battery bar setup. I have big fingers. Anyway, the velcro works great. Rolled it several times off the jumps and the battery stayed secure. Also makes for quick field-stripping / battery swapping.

-Eric

Fast_Eric - I too have big fingers, so I modified the clip by putting a zip-tie on it in a loop fashion. EZ! (http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/bodyclip/g-bodyclip.html)

Hey Fast Eric if your still using those small pins that came with the truck try getting the bigger size Traxxas ones. They fit right in and if you bend them with a couple of needle nose pliers they are Much easier to grab. When I soldered my Deans together I just used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold onto it so I would'nt smoke my fingers lol

Well, I put in new set of servo gears in the stock servo. Three packs later I stripped them again, and it was the same gear. If anyone here has stripped the servo gears, was it during jump fests and was it the three tiered gear? Sure it only cost $9 CAD but still after three packs?? I was going to cheap out and only fix it this way once but now I'm going to get the Hi-Tech 625.l've read the gears are guaranteed unbreakable!

Orb Are you sure your servo saver is working and/or adjusted properly? Be sure it's clean, lubed (I use dry lube) and adjusted. Upgrading the Evader servo is a good idea, but no servo's bulletproof, no matter what the manf. claims.

No action pic's yet but it's my experiment check it out
can't get a pic on here sas its to big

I have browsed through a good portion of the pages of this thread and I have a question about gearing(sorry if it has already been asked!). I just got my new Trinity 15 turn Speed Gem Pro and was wondering what would be the recommended pinion gear? Should I stick with the stock one? Or should I get one with less teeth? I don't race right now since I am pretty new to electric R/Cs, so its pretty much just backyard bashing.

Also, I have never adjusted my diff before as I was running my stock photon engine, and was wondering where you adjust it at?...Just thought of another question. When i break in my brushes on my new engine do my brushes have to be totally smooth? They still have grooves in them after at least 15 minutes(few minutes at a time) of breakin voltage. The instructions say only a couple minutes and it should be set to go, but I just want to check before I unleash it. Thanks

Mr - Welcome to the thread. The diff adjustment screw (allenkey) is in the outdrive of the passenger side wheel. You have to remove the passenger side camber adjustment ball cup to get at it. There is a good method to doing this here. (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/whatsthediff.html) Basically the gist of it is, you just tighten it slightly until you can't turn one wheel while holding the other and the spur gear.

I've heard rumours that you should add 3-4 to your amount of motor turns and that is how many teeth you should have on your pinion...(rumours)

Everyone else - I bought a Hi-tech 625 and I haven't driven it yet but I can already tell the difference in speed. My servo saver was nearly seized for no apparent reason but I put some silicon based lube on it for now.

Has anyone else tried to remove the stock tires from the stock rims?? I tried to boil them to no avail, I tried to bake them and again nothing, so I eventually cut them off and got some serious blisters on my thumbs:thumbsup: in the process :mad:

Bo- 1) You should be okay with the stock 20 tooth pinion. I've been running 4 or 5 turns over the wind and it's been fine (15T motor/19 or 20 pinion). Check your motor temp after you've run it for a few minutes. If you can't hold it for 5 or 6 seconds, go to a smaller pinion. If you're using the stock ESC, it may not be able to handle a 15 turn motor though, so watch for that. 2) The diff adjustment screw is in the right diff outdrive (what the dogbone axles fit into). It's a hex head screw, there should be a wrench to fit it in the tools that came with the truck. 3) Your brushes are meant to have grooves, they're called "serrated brushes". They won't disappear during run in. Actually, when they disappear it's probably time for new brushes.

My Evader seems to nose dive when jumping. My battery won't go any further back, so what else could I change? The battery is too thick to fit under the "shelf" that the ESC is mounted above, so that is the stopping point right now. Should I rebuild the 6 cell Sanyo 3000HV NiMH stick pack to a side-by-side configuration in order to get the weight back farther? Anyone else had this same experience?

:confused:

Hey, thanks for the help guys! Actually I was able to get a Novak 610-HRV esc from a friend of mine (for free!) and put that in before trying my new engine. I'll let you know how it goes when I get a chance to mess with it later.

First evader

My Evader seems to nose dive when jumping. My battery won't go any further back, so what else could I change? The battery is too thick to fit under the "shelf" that the ESC is mounted above, so that is the stopping point right now. Should I rebuild the 6 cell Sanyo 3000HV NiMH stick pack to a side-by-side configuration in order to get the weight back farther? Anyone else had this same experience?

:confused:

I have found that by putting the sponge battery spacer in the very front of my Evader ST and getting the battery to slide under the ESC tray, it does not nosedive at all. In fact, it handles quite neutral in jumps and rarely needs correction in the air at all.

I use the cheapie stock packs myself, in the configuration of 3 cells on top of each other next to 3 cells on top of each other like this:

_ _ _
_ _ _ > connector

I dont have any problem with getting my batteries to slide under the ESC tray, even with endcaps. Does your battery have unusually large endcaps on them?

<Edit: Maybe your 3000 cells are just a little larger in diameter than my inexpensive battery cells- enough that it wont slide under the tray...?>

EM

Mrfixit- Try softer springs in the rear, the yellow ones are too firm. I think the Duratrax set is white, or you can go to the pink Losi springs. This will also give you better traction under acceleration. Be sure to reset your ride height after you change springs by adjusting the shock collars down a little. Do this with the battery in and set it so your dogbones are level.

Hey all. Man do I love this truck! I had the same problem fitting a battery back under the "shelf" below the speed control. After I removed the sponge to accomodate a 7 cell, the battery did not want to slide under there. I remedied this by taking a small flat file and filing down the two plastic ribs which guide the battery bar. Now my batteries fit, albeit very snugly. I've done away with the battery support bar in favor of heavy strength velcro as well. This works great for me.

I'm going to install the Trinity Caliber 16T Double this weekend. I'll give you guys a review of the motor, performance, and runtime shortly after. It is a very budget-minded motor which seems to have some quality features. I'll keep you posted.

-Eric

I got my diff adjusted according to those instructions you listed. I only had to tighten it about 1/8 of a turn. My problem now is when I try to adjust the slipper, it seems the nut always loosens up a little, maybe due to my 15 turn engine? I think I'll try a drop of threadlock and see if that helps, unless there is another better way.

Fast Eric:

Thanks for the idea on getting rid of the two tabs under that shelf. My battery can be pushed back far enough now that the weight doesn't cause the front end to drop when it's in the air.

As far as the other suggestions, I have been running the white springs on the shocks for a long time, and I agree, they improve the handling a great deal. And yes, the foam block was cut away in the very beginning as well.

These new packs just seem a bit "fat" and they wouldn't slide in there like the old NiCd packs would. I didn't think that slight adjustment would make that big of a difference, but it did! THANKS AGAIN!!! :wave:

Nitemare - Welcome to the board. You should try saving your pics as .jpg because I cannot make out what's going on in them. What kind of body is that? The lights are going to be original!

I found if you hit a jump at ful speed that is when you nose dive. If you accelerate up the jump then you fly straight. http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/distancejump.JPG

Orbitron-
I guess I could have just tried jumping in reverse like you did. Then the nose dive wouldn't be a problem! (Humor) :D

Actually, you are right, but I now can keep it wide open over the jumps without any problem. It flies nice and level. Just sliding the weight of the battery back approx 3/8" made a big difference.

fast_eric

if your looking for solder help try this
http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/How_To_Solder/solder.htm

keep having fun.

peter :)